Start your first morning in Split with a leisurely coffee and Croatian pastry at Kavana Galerija, then wander through the atmospheric cellars and alleys of Diocletian's Palace to catch the soft winter light on ancient stone. Continue to Peristyle Square to listen for live klapa singers and climb the adjacent bell tower of St. Domnius Cathedral for a compact panoramic introduction to the city and harbor.
After exploring the palace, head toward the waterfront for a relaxed stroll along the Riva Promenade, stopping at Caffe Bar D16 or Pavillon for hot chocolate or a glass of local wine; the winter light makes the harbor especially picturesque. Continue into the Varoš neighborhood to wander narrow stone lanes and discover the intimate Gregory of Nin statue area, then warm up with a hearty Dalmatian meal at Konoba Fetivi, where rustic seafood and peka-style dishes introduce you to the region's flavors while keeping the day's pace unhurried.
As twilight falls, cross to the waterfront for a relaxed aperitif at Zinfandel Food & Wine Bar, then follow locals to the tucked-away Varoš Garden for a quiet bench with harbor views and a chance to watch the lights come up. Finish the night with a cozy, traditional meal at Konoba Matejuška-order grilled fish or octopus-and stroll past the softly lit stone facades toward the lively street music around People's Square for a final taste of Split after dark.
Begin your morning with a brisk climb up Marjan Hill via the shady trails from the Bacvice side to catch sweeping views over Split and the islands, pausing at the peaceful Sustipan Park cliffs for photos and sea air. Descend toward the waterfront for a leisurely breakfast at the seaside Fife (famous for hearty local fare) or the cozy Arta Restaurant & Bar, then wander the nearby fish market stalls at Peppers and Fish Market to sample fresh olives, local cheeses and to feel the daily rhythm of Split before the afternoon's promenades.
Descend from Marjan Hill toward the waterfront and spend a leisurely afternoon browsing artisan stalls and contemporary design at City Museum of Split's temporary exhibits, then warm up with a specialty coffee and slice of cake at the nearby D16 Coffee. Continue along the seafront to the quieter eastern stretch near Bacvice beach for a relaxed people-watch and then tuck into a late lunch at Konoba Hvaranin to sample braised lamb and local wines, keeping the day intimate and unhurried as you prepare for an evening promenade.
As dusk deepens, head to Sustipan Cemetery Park for golden-light views and a tranquil cliffside bench before making your way to the lively harborfront. Sip a craft cocktail at Dvor, then enjoy a seafood-forward dinner at Zrno Soli with harbor-lit vistas, finishing the night with a digestif and local conversation at the cozy wine bar Bokeria tucked into a nearby lane.