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7-Day Croatia Itinerary with Rijeka, Zagreb, Split, and Dubrovnik

Day 1 · Tue, Apr 14
Zagreb

Arrival in Zagreb and central city start

  1. Ban Jelačić Square — Donji Grad — Best first stop to orient yourself in central Zagreb and begin with the city’s main pedestrian hub; late afternoon, ~30 minutes.
  2. Zrinjevac Park — Lower Town — A pleasant leafy stroll after arrival, with elegant 19th-century pavilions and a calm atmosphere; late afternoon, ~45 minutes.
  3. Muzej prekinutih veza (Museum of Broken Relationships) — Upper Town/near St. Mark’s — One of Zagreb’s most memorable museums, ideal for an easy first-day cultural hit; early evening, ~1 hour.
  4. Restaurant Vinodol — Center/Lower Town — Reliable Croatian dinner spot for a first-night meal with local specialties; evening, ~1.5 hours, approx. €25–40 pp.
  5. Tkalčićeva Street — Upper Town edge — End the day with a walk along Zagreb’s liveliest café and bar street; evening, ~45 minutes.

Late Afternoon: settle into the center

Start at Ban Jelačić Square, the city’s natural meeting point and the easiest place to get your bearings after arrival. If you’re coming from the station or anywhere central, it’s an easy walk or a short tram ride, and you’ll quickly see how Zagreb flows around this square: trams clanging through, people crossing from Ilica into the Lower Town, and locals using it as a landmark for everything. It’s worth about 30 minutes just to orient yourself and get into the rhythm of the city before wandering north.

From there, stroll up to Zrinjevac Park, which is at its prettiest in the late afternoon light. The plane trees, fountains, and little 19th-century pavilions make it feel like Zagreb’s elegant living room. It’s an easy, flat walk from Ban Jelačić Square—no need for transit—and a nice way to reset after travel. If you want a coffee or pastry nearby, this is the area for a quick stop; otherwise just keep it slow and enjoy the green space before the evening starts.

Early Evening: first cultural stop

Head up toward the Upper Town for Muzej prekinutih veza (Museum of Broken Relationships), one of the city’s most memorable museums and absolutely worth making your first Zagreb museum stop. It’s compact, emotional, and very Zagreb in the sense that it’s thoughtful without being stuffy. Plan for about an hour, and if you arrive around 5–6 pm you’ll usually avoid the worst of any daytime crowds. Ticket prices are typically in the €7–9 range, and the museum is close enough to the Upper Town streets that you can easily pair it with a short walk before dinner.

Dinner and an easy night out

For dinner, sit down at Restaurant Vinodol in the center/Lower Town area, a dependable first-night choice when you want good Croatian food without overcomplicating things. It’s known for solid local dishes, decent wine, and a polished-but-not-fussy atmosphere; expect around €25–40 per person depending on whether you go for wine and dessert. From the museum, it’s an easy walk or a very short taxi/tram ride back down to the center, and it’s one of those places where you can actually relax after a travel day instead of hunting around the city for dinner.

Finish with a gentle wander along Tkalčićeva Street, Zagreb’s liveliest café-and-bar strip and the best place to feel the city loosen up at night. This is where people drift for a drink, a final coffee, or just an aimless stroll; it’s especially nice if you keep it light after dinner and let the evening unfold naturally. You don’t need to “do” much here—just walk, people-watch, and enjoy the fact that your trip has officially started.

Day 2 · Wed, Apr 15
Rijeka

Zagreb to Rijeka on the northern Adriatic

Getting there from Zagreb
Bus (Autotrans/Arriva from Zagreb Bus Terminal) — ~2h30–3h, about €15–25. Best morning departure so you still have time for Rijeka Market after arrival. Book on Arriva or Autotrans.
Train (HŽPP) — ~4h, about €10–18. Cheaper, but slower and less convenient.
  1. Dolac Market — Central Zagreb — Start with the city’s classic open-air market for coffee, fruit, and local energy before departure or city exploring; morning, ~45 minutes.
  2. Cathedral of Zagreb — Kaptol — The city’s most iconic landmark and an easy nearby stop with dramatic neo-Gothic architecture; morning, ~30–45 minutes.
  3. St. Mark’s Church — Upper Town — A must-see for its colorful tiled roof and historic square setting; late morning, ~30 minutes.
  4. La Štruk — Center/near Tkalčićeva — Perfect lunch for traditional štrukli in a compact, casual setting; midday, ~1 hour, approx. €12–20 pp.
  5. Rijeka City Market (Gradska tržnica Rijeka) — Center / waterfront edge — Once in Rijeka, this is the best place to absorb the city’s working-port feel and sample local food; late afternoon, ~45 minutes.
  6. Korzo — Rijeka center — Finish with a walk on the main promenade as the city comes alive in the evening; evening, ~1 hour.

Morning in central Zagreb

Start at Dolac Market, the city’s most atmospheric morning stop, especially if you want to see Zagreb before it gets polished and busy. The upper level is best for flowers, seasonal fruit, honey, and that everyday local rhythm; downstairs you’ll find dairy, cheeses, and a few old-school stalls that open early, usually around 7:00. Grab a quick coffee nearby at one of the simple stands around Tkalčićeva or by Ban Jelačić Square if you want to linger a bit, but keep it efficient since you’ve got a bus later. From Dolac, it’s an easy walk uphill to the next stop.

A few minutes away is the Cathedral of Zagreb, the city’s signature landmark and the thing you’ll spot first from half of central Zagreb. Even if the interior access is limited by restoration work at times, the exterior alone is worth the stop for the neo-Gothic towers and the dramatic Kaptol setting. If it’s open for visiting, entry is usually free or donation-based, though hours can be irregular around services; for a quicker visit, plan on 30 minutes and move on. From here, continue on foot into the Upper Town.

Late morning and lunch

The walk up to St. Mark’s Church takes you into the most picturesque part of old Zagreb, where government buildings, cobblestones, and quiet courtyards replace the market bustle below. The tiled roof is the whole draw, and it photographs best in late morning before the square gets crowded. You don’t need long here — 20 to 30 minutes is enough — but take a slow lap around the square and look at the surrounding facades, since this is one of the few places in the city that still feels like a small historic capital rather than a big city center.

For lunch, head to La Štruk, a local favorite that does one thing very well: štrukli, the baked or boiled cheese pastry that’s basically Zagreb’s comfort food. It’s casual, centrally located, and a smart midday stop because it won’t eat up your day; expect roughly €12–20 per person depending on what you order. If you can, try one classic savory version and one sweeter or baked version to compare. After lunch, collect your things and leave enough time for the transfer to Rijeka so you’re not rushing into the afternoon.

Late afternoon in Rijeka

Once you arrive in Rijeka, head straight to Rijeka City Market (Gradska tržnica Rijeka). This is the best first impression of the city: a working port, a fish-market smell in the air, vendors selling produce and seafood, and locals doing actual daily shopping rather than sightseeing. If you’re there in the late afternoon, some stalls may be winding down, but it’s still worth it for the atmosphere and the waterfront edge. Budget about 45 minutes, and if you want a snack, look for olives, local cheese, or a quick pastry rather than planning a full meal here.

Evening on Korzo

Finish the day with a slow walk along Korzo, Rijeka’s main promenade and the city’s social spine. This is where people actually go in the evening — for a stroll, a coffee, an aperitif, or just to watch the city switch into nighttime mode. You’ll find plenty of cafés and bars tucked along the street and side lanes, so don’t overplan it; this is the part of the day where you just wander. If you want a drink, keep it simple and stay around the central stretch near Jadranski trg and the side streets off Korzo, where the energy is best without needing a taxi back anywhere.

Day 3 · Thu, Apr 16
Opatija

Opatija and the Kvarner coastline

Getting there from Rijeka
Bus or taxi/ride-hail — ~20–30 min, about €3–6 by bus or €15–25 by taxi. Easiest practical transfer; go mid-morning after Rijeka if you’re not rushing. Book bus on Arriva/Autotrans or use Bolt for a car.
No train needed; the bus is the standard option for this short hop.
  1. Moscenicka Draga Promenade — Southern Kvarner coast — Start with a scenic coastal drive/walk to ease into the Opatija day and enjoy the sea views; morning, ~45 minutes.
  2. Lungomare — Opatija waterfront — The signature seaside promenade, best experienced before it gets busy; late morning, ~1.5 hours.
  3. Villa Angiolina & Croatian Museum of Tourism — Opatija center — A polished cultural stop that explains Opatija’s Habsburg-era resort history; late morning, ~1 hour.
  4. Roko Restaurant — Opatija center — Good spot for a seafood-forward lunch with terrace energy near the promenade; midday, ~1.5 hours, approx. €20–35 pp.
  5. Park Angiolina — Opatija center — A gentle post-lunch pause with palms, old villas, and sea air; afternoon, ~45 minutes.
  6. Kavana Wagner — Opatija center — Classic café break for coffee and cake before heading on; late afternoon, ~45 minutes, approx. €8–15 pp.

Morning

Ease into the day with Moscenicka Draga Promenade, a pretty little stretch on the southern Kvarner coast that feels like the right kind of slow start after Rijeka. If you’re coming in by bus or taxi, aim to be here mid-morning when the light is still soft and the sea is calm; the whole point is to have a scenic, unhurried first hour rather than race into town. This is more of a “walk, stop, look out over the water” stop than a big sightseeing block, so wear comfortable shoes and just enjoy the reset before Opatija proper.

From there, head back toward the center for Lungomare, Opatija’s signature waterfront promenade and the most natural way to experience the town. The path is easy and mostly flat, with benches, views across the bay, and elegant old villas tucked behind the trees. It can get busier later in the day, so late morning is ideal. You can walk as much or as little as you want — even 20 minutes here gives you the feel of the place — and it’s a nice transition into the resort history you’ll see next.

Late Morning to Lunch

Continue into the center for Villa Angiolina & Croatian Museum of Tourism, which is one of those stops that actually helps the rest of the day make sense. The museum is compact and usually manageable in about an hour, and the villa grounds are worth a slow look even if you’re not the type to linger in museums. Check hours before you go since they can shift seasonally, but late morning is generally the sweet spot. Afterward, walk a few minutes to Roko Restaurant for lunch; it’s a good choice if you want seafood, pasta, or grilled fish without making lunch feel too formal. Expect roughly €20–35 per person, especially if you add wine or a dessert, and the terrace atmosphere is half the appeal here.

Afternoon and Evening

After lunch, give yourself a slower hour in Park Angiolina, which is exactly the right post-meal reset. It’s shaded, polished, and easy to wander without an agenda, with palms, old villas, and that slightly faded elegance Opatija does so well. This is a good time to sit a while and let the pace drop before your final stop. Finish the day at Kavana Wagner, a classic café for coffee and cake; it’s the sort of place where you order an espresso, something sweet, and just watch the town go by. Budget around €8–15 per person, and if you’re lucky with the weather, grab a seat outside and stay as long as you like before heading on.

Day 4 · Fri, Apr 17
Plitvička Jezera

Plitvice Lakes gateway and onward to Split

Getting there from Opatija
Private car / rental car via A6/E65 and D429 — ~3h15–4h, fuel/tolls roughly €25–40 plus rental. Best if you want a smooth early departure to reach Plitvice in time for an early park start. Book rental via Rentalcars, Discover Cars, or directly with Sixt/Hertz.
Bus via Zagreb or Karlovac — ~5.5–7h, about €20–35. Cheapest, but slower and usually requires a connection; only if you’re not self-driving.
  1. Entrance 1, Plitvice Lakes National Park — Plitvička Jezera — Begin early to make the most of the park’s signature trails and avoid crowds; morning, ~4 hours.
  2. Veliki Slap — Lower Lakes area — The park’s biggest waterfall and a fitting highlight after the main lake circuit; late morning, ~30 minutes.
  3. Café & snack stop at Ethno Houses Plitvica Selo — Plitvica Selo — A practical refuel spot with rustic surroundings before the drive south; midday, ~45 minutes, approx. €10–18 pp.
  4. Bistro Torcida — Near highway route toward Split — Solid road-trip lunch stop to break up the transfer without a big detour; afternoon, ~1 hour, approx. €15–25 pp.
  5. Marjan viewpoint stop — Split / Marjan — A scenic first look at Split from above once you arrive, ideal for stretching after the drive; late afternoon, ~45 minutes.

Morning

Get into Plitvice Lakes National Park as early as you can and head straight for Entrance 1. This is the best starting point if you want the classic lower-lakes loop without feeling rushed, and in April the park is usually calm enough that you can actually hear the water instead of just the crowd. Plan on about four hours for the main circuit, including a few photo stops and the wooden boardwalk sections. Ticket prices vary by season, but expect roughly €10–23 depending on the date and time; check the official park site before you go, since entry can sell out on busier spring days. Wear proper walking shoes — the paths get damp and slippery — and keep small cash or card handy for snacks and bathrooms near the entrances.

By late morning, work your way to Veliki Slap, the park’s signature waterfall in the Lower Lakes area. It’s one of those places where the scale only really lands when you’re standing there, and it’s worth lingering for half an hour even if you’ve already seen plenty of cascades. If you want the cleanest view, step slightly away from the main viewing platform and let people cycle through; you’ll get a better angle and a little breathing room. Don’t try to race this part — the park is better when you move slowly enough to notice the color of the water and the sound changing from one section to the next.

Lunch

After the waterfall, continue to Ethno Houses Plitvica Selo for a café-and-snack stop that feels suitably rustic without being precious about it. It’s a smart reset before the long drive south, and it’s one of the easier places in the area to grab coffee, a sandwich, soup, or something simple before you leave the park zone. Budget about €10–18 per person depending on what you order. If the weather is good, sit outside for a few minutes rather than staying in transit mode; this is the kind of place where the pace naturally slows down, and that’s exactly what you want before heading back to the coast.

Afternoon

On the way toward Split, break up the transfer with lunch at Bistro Torcida. It’s a practical road-trip stop rather than a destination meal, which is exactly why it works: straightforward Croatian food, decent portions, and a location that makes sense if you don’t want to waste time on a long detour. Expect around €15–25 per person, and keep the order simple so you’re back on the road without feeling weighed down. Once you arrive in Split, go straight to Marjan for a late-afternoon viewpoint stop — the best way to reorient after a full day on the move. The walk or short taxi ride up to the viewpoints around Marjan is worth it for the first big look over the harbor, the rooftops, and the islands beyond; give yourself about 45 minutes, and if you’ve still got energy, stay a little longer for the sunset light.

Day 5 · Sat, Apr 18
Split

Split old town and waterfront

Getting there from Plitvička Jezera
Intercity bus (Arriva / Croatia Bus / Prijevoz Knežević) — ~3h30–4h30, about €20–35. Depart after breakfast or late morning; this fits well after an early Plitvice day and gets you to Split with daylight left.
Private car — ~3h15–4h via A1, fuel/tolls roughly €20–35. More flexible if you’re road-tripping, but bus is usually the simplest.
  1. Diocletian’s Palace (Peristyle and substructures) — Old Town — Start in the historic core while it’s still calm; the Roman ruins are the essential Split experience; morning, ~1.5 hours.
  2. Cathedral of St. Domnius — Old Town — Climb or explore one of the oldest cathedrals in the world, right beside the palace; morning, ~45 minutes.
  3. Pazar (Green Market) — East of Old Town — Great for a lively local browse and an easy transition from monuments to everyday Split; late morning, ~45 minutes.
  4. Bokeria Kitchen & Wine — Old Town — A strong lunch choice with a polished Dalmatian menu in the heart of the action; midday, ~1.5 hours, approx. €20–35 pp.
  5. Riva Promenade — Waterfront — Best for an unhurried seaside walk and people-watching after lunch; afternoon, ~1 hour.
  6. Kašjuni Beach — Marjan area — A relaxed late-day beach stop to balance the historic morning with some coast time; late afternoon, ~1.5 hours.

Morning

Arrive in Split and head straight into Diocletian’s Palace, starting at the Peristyle while the stone is still quiet and the cruise crowds haven’t fully spread through the lanes. This is the city’s living core, not a frozen museum, so take your time with the mix of Roman columns, small cafés, and locals cutting through on their way to work. If you want the best angle on the whole complex, drop into the substructures first; the vaulted chambers usually open around 9:00 and the ticket is modest, roughly €8–10, with the catacombs and upper areas often bundled or sold separately depending on what you want to visit. From there, step next door to the Cathedral of St. Domnius, where you can either explore the interior or climb the bell tower for one of the best city views in Dalmatia; expect about €5–8 and roughly 30–45 minutes if you include the climb.

Late Morning and Lunch

From the palace, it’s an easy wander east toward Pazar, Split’s Green Market, which is at its liveliest before noon. This is where the city feels most local: piles of cherries and strawberries in spring, herbs, olive oil, cheese, and plenty of stalls selling tablecloths, sunglasses, and the kind of everyday odds and ends that tell you who actually lives here. If you’re hungry, grab a quick snack — a slice of burek or fresh fruit — and then head back toward the center for lunch. Bokeria Kitchen & Wine is one of the safest “go here and relax” choices in the old town: polished but not stiff, with Dalmatian plates, good seafood, and a wine list that actually makes sense. Book ahead if you can, especially on weekends, and plan around €20–35 per person for a proper lunch.

Afternoon and Evening

After lunch, let your pace slow down on the Riva Promenade, Split’s big waterfront living room. This is the best place to do absolutely nothing for a while: sit with an espresso, watch the ferries and locals pass, and enjoy how the old town opens straight onto the sea. It’s a pleasant 10-minute drift from the palace core, and in April the sun is usually comfortable enough for an unhurried walk without the summer heat. Later, take a taxi or local bus toward the Marjan side for Kašjuni Beach, which is the right late-day contrast to all the stone and history. It’s usually quiet in spring, with a pebbly shore and clear water, and you may have the place almost to yourself except for walkers, runners, and a few early swimmers. Bring water, a light layer for the return, and don’t overthink dinner — after a full Split day, the point is just to enjoy that last stretch of sea and light.

Day 6 · Sun, Apr 19
Makarska

Split to Makarska on the Dalmatian coast

Getting there from Split
Bus (Promet Makarska / Arriva / Croatia Bus) — ~1h15–1h45, about €7–12. Frequent and straightforward; a mid-morning departure is ideal so you arrive before the Biokovo/afternoon window. Book on GetByBus or the operator site.
Drive — ~1h15 via the D8 coastal road, fuel only. Good if you’ve rented a car and want flexibility, but parking in Makarska can be tighter.
  1. Mlinice on the Tučepi side — Tučepi/Makarska Riviera — Start with a short scenic outing to the foothills and river mills area for a quieter coastal contrast; morning, ~1 hour.
  2. Biokovo Skywalk — Biokovo Nature Park — The marquee experience of the day with dramatic views over the Adriatic; late morning, ~2 hours.
  3. Konoba Kalalarga — Makarska center — Good lunch stop for Dalmatian classics in town after the mountain excursion; midday, ~1.5 hours, approx. €18–30 pp.
  4. St. Mark’s Church & Kačić Square — Makarska old center — A compact historic core that’s easy to enjoy without rushing; afternoon, ~45 minutes.
  5. Makarska Harbour — Waterfront — A pleasant sunset stroll with boats, cafés, and mountain-backdrop views; late afternoon, ~1 hour.
  6. Caffe Bar Smile — Makarska waterfront — End with a casual drink or dessert by the sea; evening, ~45 minutes, approx. €6–12 pp.

Morning

Arrive in Makarska and keep the first part of the day light: head straight toward Mlinice on the Tučepi side, a pleasantly quiet stretch where the coast gives way to the foothills and the old water mills. It’s best enjoyed before the day gets hot or busy, and you only need about an hour to wander, take a few photos, and enjoy the contrast between the sea and the green slopes. If you’re moving around on foot, this is the kind of place where a short taxi or ride-hail from town can save time and energy; otherwise, just plan on an easy, unhurried start and let the landscape set the pace.

From there, go up to Biokovo Skywalk for the day’s big view. Aim for a late-morning slot if the weather is clear, because this is where the coastal light really opens up and the Adriatic looks endless. The park entry is usually paid separately, and the Skywalk is worth budgeting a little extra time for even if the platform itself doesn’t take long; between the mountain road, the viewpoint, and the stop-and-stare factor, two hours passes quickly. Dress a bit warmer than you think you need — it can feel noticeably cooler up high, especially with the wind.

Lunch and afternoon

Drop back into town for lunch at Konoba Kalalarga in the center, a solid place for Dalmatian classics after the mountain drive. Think grilled fish, pasticada, black risotto, or simple seasonal plates, with lunch usually landing around €18–30 per person depending on what you order. It’s the kind of place where you can actually relax and recover, which matters after a morning in the hills. Afterward, take a slow walk through the compact old center to St. Mark’s Church & Kačić Square; this is the easiest part of Makarska to enjoy without a plan, so give yourself 45 minutes to sit, look around, and watch local life spill through the square and lanes.

Late afternoon and evening

As the light softens, head down to Makarska Harbour for a waterfront stroll. This is one of the nicest parts of town in the late afternoon: fishing boats, ferries, café terraces, and that huge Biokovo backdrop behind the promenade. It’s an easy hour to lose on purpose, especially if you stop for a coffee or a quick gelato. Finish at Caffe Bar Smile on the waterfront for a drink or dessert; it’s casual, good for people-watching, and usually lands around €6–12 per person. If the evening is warm, sit outside and let the day end slowly — Makarska is at its best when you don’t rush the last hour.

Day 7 · Mon, Apr 20
Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik finale

Getting there from Makarska
Intercity bus (Arriva / FlixBus / Croatia Bus) — ~3h30–4h30, about €15–30. Best morning departure so you can reach Dubrovnik before lunch and still do Old Town comfortably. Book on FlixBus, GetByBus, or the operator’s site.
Drive — ~3h15–4h via the D8 coastal road, fuel/tolls minimal. Better only if you already have a car; otherwise the bus is easier.
  1. Pile Gate & Old Town entrance — Dubrovnik Old Town — Enter through the classic western gate for the most iconic first impression; morning, ~20 minutes.
  2. Stradun — Old Town — Walk the main marble street before it gets crowded, taking in the city’s polished historic core; morning, ~45 minutes.
  3. Franciscan Monastery — Old Town — A peaceful cultural stop with one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies; morning, ~45 minutes.
  4. Gradska Kavana Arsenal — Old Town waterfront — Ideal lunch spot with harbor views and a fitting final-city atmosphere; midday, ~1.5 hours, approx. €25–40 pp.
  5. Dubrovnik City Walls — Old Town perimeter — Save the signature finale for the strongest light and energy of the day; afternoon, ~2 hours.
  6. Buža Bar — Outside the western walls — End the trip with a classic cliffside drink overlooking the sea at sunset; evening, ~1 hour, approx. €8–15 pp.

Morning

Arrive in Dubrovnik and go straight for Pile Gate & Old Town entrance so your first look at the city is the classic one. This is the easiest and most dramatic way in, and in the late morning the light usually hits the limestone and the walls beautifully. From the gate, step onto Stradun, the broad marble spine of the Old Town, and just let yourself walk it without rushing; it’s only about 10 minutes end to end, but with photos, church bells, and a few side lanes, it easily becomes the whole mood of the morning.

Keep wandering toward Franciscan Monastery, one of those places that feels like a quiet pocket inside the city’s busiest stretch. The cloister is calm, and the pharmacy museum is the real draw — it’s one of Europe’s oldest still-in-use pharmacies and usually open daily for a modest entry fee, around €5–7. If you want a coffee first, there are plenty of small cafés tucked just off Stradun, but this part of the day works best if you keep moving and save your longer stop for lunch.

Lunch

Settle in at Gradska Kavana Arsenal on the waterfront for a proper last-day Dubrovnik lunch with a view of the harbor and the old maritime quarter. It’s the sort of place that works because it feels appropriately grand without being stuffy, and the terrace is especially good if you want to watch the city’s rhythm rather than sit inside. Expect roughly €25–40 per person depending on whether you go for seafood, pasta, or a glass of local wine; it’s a nice place to linger for 90 minutes and reset before the afternoon climb.

Afternoon Exploring

After lunch, head to Dubrovnik City Walls when the sun is stronger and the Old Town is at its liveliest. This is the signature final act, and the full circuit usually takes about 2 hours if you stop for views and photos, a little longer if you’re in no rush. Plan on comfortable shoes, a water bottle, and a ticket around €35–40; the entrance points are easy to find from the Old Town core, and the western stretch gives you some of the best angles over red roofs, the sea, and the fortress line. Late afternoon is the sweet spot here: bright enough for views, but not as harsh as midday.

Evening

Finish at Buža Bar, tucked just outside the western walls, where the whole point is to sit with a drink and watch the light slide toward sunset. It’s casual, a little weathered, and exactly the kind of place people remember after a Croatia trip — not fancy, just spectacular. Drinks usually run about €8–15, and because the seating is limited and uneven, it’s best to arrive a bit before sunset if you want a good perch. When you’re done, just wander back through the Old Town one last time; at this hour the lanes are softer, quieter, and feel like a proper goodbye.

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