Start with the flight from Manchester Airport to Keflavík Airport (KEF) — plan on roughly 3 to 3.5 hours in the air, plus the usual airport shuffle, so an early-morning or midday departure is ideal if you want to make the most of the short winter daylight. At KEF, arrivals are straightforward: bags come out fast, signage is clear, and for a no-driving trip the easiest move is to head straight for the airport coach rather than faffing around with taxis in the cold. In December, expect dark, crisp weather and a very “welcome to Iceland” feel the second you step outside, so keep your layers accessible.
Take the Flybus from Keflavík Airport into Reykjavík city center; it’s usually about 45–60 minutes depending on drop-offs, and it’s the least stressful option with luggage. Tickets commonly run around ISK 4,000–6,000 per person one way, and it’s worth booking ahead if your flight lands at a busy time. For check-in, staying near the Old Harbour or downtown makes everything easy on foot — you’ll be able to drop your bags and immediately be in the part of town you actually want to be in, rather than spending the day on buses and transfers.
Once you’ve settled, walk down toward Harpa on Austurbakki. It’s one of those places that’s genuinely better in winter than in photos: the glass façade catches the low light beautifully, and the waterfront feels big and calm without being empty. Give it 45–60 minutes to stroll around, pop inside if the lobby or café is open, and just take in the harbour edge. From there, it’s an easy waterfront walk to Sun Voyager on Sæbraut — a classic seafront stop, especially if you arrive close to sunset, when the mountain backdrop and the bay start turning blue-grey. It only needs 20–30 minutes, so don’t overplan it; this is more about a brisk walk, a few photos, and getting a feel for the city on day one.
For dinner, head to Messinn around the Austurstræti area — it’s a reliable first-night pick because it’s central, warm, and very good at the kind of seafood you actually want after a travel day. Expect main dishes around ISK 4,000–6,500 per person, and portions are generous enough that two travellers can leave feeling properly fed without needing to hunt for a late-night snack. Book ahead if you can, because winter weekends can still fill up, and it saves standing around in the cold. After dinner, keep the evening simple: wander a little through downtown if you’ve got energy, then get back early and sleep — Iceland rewards people who don’t try to cram too much into arrival day.
From your base in Reykjavík, start up on Skólavörðuholt at Hallgrímskirkja — it’s an easy bus ride or a 15–20 minute walk from most central hotels, and in December I’d aim to be there soon after opening so you’re not fighting the short daylight. The tower is the main event: if the weather is clear, the views over the rooftops, Faxaflói Bay, and the mountains are absolutely worth the ISK 1,000–1,400-ish tower fee. Give yourself 1–1.5 hours here, including a quick look inside the church itself and time to warm up if the wind is sharp.
Walk downhill next along Rainbow Street / Skólavörðustígur, which is one of those Reykjavík strolls that’s more about atmosphere than ticking off sights. It’s lined with small shops, cafés, and galleries, and the slope makes it a pleasant, easy transition rather than a “tour.” Stop for a few photos, browse a wool shop if you’re tempted by a lopapeysa, and take your time drifting toward the center; 30–45 minutes is plenty unless you want to linger.
Head over to The Icelandic Phallological Museum near the Hlemmur area for the day’s oddball highlight. It’s very Reykjavík in the best possible way: a little strange, very committed to its theme, and exactly the kind of place that breaks up a winter day with something you’ll remember. Expect to spend about an hour, with admission usually around ISK 3,000–4,000 per person. If you’re arriving by foot from the downtown area, it’s a straightforward walk; otherwise, buses along Hverfisgata and the Hlemmur transit hub make it easy.
For lunch, drop into BakaBaka back downtown — a smart choice for pastries, soups, sandwiches, and a strong coffee before the afternoon museums. It’s popular, but turnover is decent, and prices usually land around ISK 2,500–4,500 per person depending on whether you just want coffee and a pastry or a fuller lunch. If you like the city to feel a bit lived-in, this is a nice place to slow down rather than rush.
After lunch, make your way to Suðurgata for the National Museum of Iceland. This is the best place to get the broad story of the country — settlement, sagas, church life, modern Iceland — without feeling like you’re only seeing one slice of it. The collection is well laid out, and in winter the indoor time is especially welcome. Plan on 1.5–2 hours, and budget roughly ISK 3,000–4,000 per person. If you’re using buses, check routes toward the museum area in advance; otherwise it’s a manageable walk from the center if the weather isn’t too brutal.
Wrap up the day with a very classic Reykjavík snack stop at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur on Tryggvagata. It’s famous for a reason: fast, cheap, and perfect when you want something warm without committing to a full dinner. Order it “everything” style if you want the full local experience, and expect about ISK 700–1,200 per person. From there you can wander a little around the harbor or head back to your hotel; if you’re finishing up around dusk, you’ll still have time for an unhurried evening walk before calling it a night.
Start with the Strætó bus south from Reykjavík BSÍ to Selfoss after breakfast, ideally on a mid-morning departure so you’re not rushing the rest of the day. In winter, I’d pad the transfer a little because weather can nudge timetables, but when it’s running normally you’ll be in the Selfoss area in about 1 to 1.5 hours. Expect a simple coach ride rather than a scenic tour, so keep your camera ready for the moment you get off — the light around the south side can be beautiful even on a gray December day.
From Selfoss, continue to Kerið Crater for a quick stop, about 45 minutes is enough to walk the rim and look down into the blue-green lake if it’s not frozen over. There’s a small entrance fee, usually around ISK 600–1,000 per person, and in winter the path can be slippery, so wear proper shoes. Next, head back toward town for Skyrland, which is a fun, very Icelandic little stop before lunch; plan on about 45–60 minutes and expect something like ISK 2,000–3,500 per person depending on whether you do a tasting or just browse. It’s a good place to reset after the bus ride and get a feel for one of the country’s classic foods without turning the day into a museum marathon.
For lunch, go to the Old Dairy Food Hall in Selfoss town center — it’s the easiest place to eat well without overthinking it, especially for two travellers who want different things. You can split up and each grab what you like, then meet back at one of the shared seating areas; budget roughly ISK 2,500–4,500 per person for a proper lunch. If you have time after eating, wander the newer riverfront side of town for a few minutes before heading onward — Selfoss is practical rather than flashy, but that’s part of the charm.
After lunch, move on to Sólheimar Eco-Village near Grímsnes, which works beautifully as a slower afternoon stop if you want something a bit quieter than the usual Golden Circle churn. Give yourself 1 to 1.5 hours to stroll the grounds, look into the workshops, and soak up the community feel; it’s one of those places that rewards unhurried wandering more than ticking boxes. If you’re lucky, you’ll also catch a café open for coffee or cake, and that’s usually the right pace for this part of the day in December. Keep an eye on daylight — once the light starts going, it’s better to have one relaxed stop than to try to cram in too much.
For dinner, aim for a Fjöruborðið-style seafood meal somewhere in South Iceland near your overnight base, and book ahead if you can because good seafood spots in this region can be popular even in winter. Expect around ISK 5,000–8,000 per person for a fuller dinner, more if you add drinks or a starter, and the reward is a proper end-of-day meal rather than something generic from a gas station café. After dinner, settle in early — December evenings on the south side are dark, often windy, and best enjoyed from somewhere warm, with the next day’s bus plans already checked.
Start early with the Strætó coach from Selfoss to Vík í Mýrdal so you’ve still got daylight for the coast. In December, that means aiming for a departure soon after breakfast; the southbound run can take roughly 2.5–3.5 hours depending on connections, and winter weather sometimes adds a little slack to the timetable. Have your ticket sorted in the Strætó app or on Straeto.is, keep snacks and water with you, and don’t plan a tight connection on arrival — Vík is small, but in winter the bus rhythm matters more than the map does.
Once you’re in town, head straight out to Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach while the light is best. It’s the classic South Coast stop for a reason: the basalt columns, the black volcanic sand, and the huge Atlantic surf feel properly cinematic when the weather is moody. Stay well back from the water — the sneaker waves here are no joke — and keep the walk to the signed areas rather than wandering closer to the edge. Afterward, warm up with lunch at Smiðjan Brugghús in Vík; it’s one of the most reliable places in town for burgers, beer, and hearty comfort food, with mains usually around ISK 3,500–6,500 per person.
Spend the afternoon at Dyrhólaey, west of the village, for the big open views over the coast and, if conditions are right, a bit of winter birdlife and dramatic surf below. It can be windy and occasionally inaccessible in poor weather, so treat it as a scenic weather-dependent stop rather than a mission; if it’s open, 45–60 minutes is enough to take in the viewpoint without rushing. From there, drift back into Vík and head to Vík Swimming Pool — a very local, very practical way to thaw out after the coast. It’s the kind of place that makes winter travel in Iceland feel less heroic and more sensible: clean changing rooms, hot water, and an easy-going atmosphere; expect to pay roughly ISK 1,000–1,500 per person.
For dinner, finish at Black Crust Pizzeria in the town center, which is popular for good reason after a cold coastal day. The pizzas are generous, the prices usually sit around ISK 3,000–5,500 per person, and it’s a relaxed spot where you can linger without needing a big plan afterward. If you’re staying overnight in Vík, you’ve got the simplest evening possible: dinner, a short walk back through town, and an early night before tomorrow’s return to Reykjavík.
After breakfast in Vík í Mýrdal, take the Strætó coach back to Reykjavík and use the ride to reset after the South Coast stretch; in December I’d aim for a morning departure so you’re in town by early afternoon and still have usable daylight. Once you’re back in the city, head straight into Grandi, the harbor district west of downtown, where everything is pleasantly walkable and the winter pace feels a bit calmer than the center. If you’ve got luggage, it’s easiest to drop it at your hotel first and then get back on the bus or walk over to the harbor from there.
Start with the Reykjavík Maritime Museum for a compact, very Icelandic slice of history — it’s small enough to enjoy without museum fatigue, and it makes sense after several days along the coast. Expect roughly 1 to 1.5 hours here, with entry usually around ISK 2,000–3,000 per person. From there, it’s a short stroll to Bryggjan Brugghús for late lunch or an early pint; this is one of the better harbor-side stops for hearty plates and local beer, and you’ll generally spend about ISK 4,000–7,000 per person depending on whether you go for a main and a drink. In winter it’s worth booking or arriving a little early for lunch, especially on a Monday, because Grandi fills up around midday with locals and office workers.
After lunch, keep the indoor momentum going at Whales of Iceland, which is a good fit for a gray December afternoon and pairs naturally with the harbor area. Give yourself 1 to 1.5 hours here; tickets are typically around ISK 4,000–5,500 per person. Later, head over to Sky Lagoon in Kársnes for the day’s best reset: warm water, sea air, and a proper break from buses and winter layers. Plan on ISK 9,000–12,000 per person depending on whether you choose the basic or premium package, and budget about 2 to 2.5 hours total once you count changing and soaking. For a couple, this is the nicest place to slow the whole trip down — just book ahead, bring swimwear if you have it, and expect the usual Icelandic spa rhythm of showers first, then the lagoon. Finish with dinner back in Grandi at Matur og Drykkur, which does modern Icelandic dishes beautifully and feels like a proper final Reykjavík meal; a main course and drinks usually lands around ISK 6,000–10,000 per person, and an early evening booking is smart so you’re not rushing after the lagoon.
Start the day in Grandi with breakfast at Kaffivagninn, the old harbor institution right by the water. It’s one of those places that still feels properly Reykjavík: straightforward plates, strong coffee, and a view of the fishing boats and warehouse district waking up. Plan on about ISK 2,000–4,000 per person and 45–60 minutes here. After that, pop over to Kolaportið down by the harbor if it’s open — it’s the weekend market and the best place for a quick last browse of local snacks, wool, chocolate, and random Icelandic odds and ends. Give yourself 30–45 minutes max; it’s more fun as a quick rummage than a big shopping mission, especially on a travel day.
Head back into the center for one last easy wander along Laugavegur, Reykjavík’s main street. This is the right moment to buy any final gifts, duck into little design shops, or just drift between Austurstræti and Skólavörðustígur without a fixed plan. Keep it light and local — the goal is not to cram in sights, just to enjoy the city one more time before you go. When you’re ready, settle in at Sandholt Bakery on Laugavegur for a final brunch or coffee break. It’s one of the most reliable spots in town for good pastries, sandwiches, and proper coffee, and budget roughly ISK 2,500–5,000 per person. If you want something to take on the plane, this is also a good place to grab it.
For the airport run, take the FlyBus or airport coach from downtown Reykjavík to Keflavík Airport and leave about 3 hours before your flight. In December, that buffer matters: weather, road conditions, and check-in lines can all slow things down a bit, and the coach ride usually takes 45–60 minutes. If your hotel is near the center, the bus is the simplest no-drama option; just make sure you know your exact pickup point and have your boarding pass and passports handy before you leave. Once you’re at KEF, it’s the usual international airport routine — security, a bit of duty-free browsing if time allows, then the flight back to Manchester.