After landing at Kirkwall Airport, allow around 30–45 minutes for baggage, paperwork, and collecting the rental car. The airport is small and straightforward, but November weather can slow things down, so avoid planning anything tightly around your arrival time. From the airport, Kirkwall is roughly a 10-minute drive via the A960; follow signs into the centre and check parking arrangements with your accommodation before leaving the car.
Head first to the Orkney Museum on Broad Street for about an hour. It is an excellent introduction to the islands, covering everything from prehistoric settlement to Norse Kirkwall, and it will make the rest of your week’s archaeological visits much more meaningful. Check the seasonal opening hours before travelling—November hours can be reduced—and expect a modest entry fee or donation. From there, walk a few minutes through the compact town centre to St Magnus Cathedral in Cathedral Square, allowing around 45 minutes to admire the warm red sandstone, Viking-era foundations, and remarkably atmospheric interior. Dress warmly: the cathedral can feel chilly even when Kirkwall’s streets seem comfortable.
If operating on your arrival date, make your final stop at Hellyers Road Distillery in Kirkwall for a relaxed tasting of Tasmanian whisky. Confirm opening times and reserve ahead, particularly outside the main season; tastings generally take about an hour and cost approximately £15–£30 per person depending on the experience. If your flight arrives late or the distillery is closed, keep this as a flexible option rather than rushing the earlier visits.
Finish at The Lynnfield Hotel, a short walk or brief drive from central Kirkwall, for a traditional dinner. Allow roughly £25–£45 per person, and book ahead if possible because November dining choices are more limited than in summer. Expect hearty local cooking—ideal after travelling—and take a gentle evening stroll around Broad Street and Cathedral Square if the weather is calm; in late November, darkness arrives early, so bring a waterproof jacket and use care on wet pavements.
Begin in Cathedral Square, where Bishop’s Palace and Earl’s Palace sit beside St Magnus Cathedral. Allow about an hour to explore the atmospheric medieval ruins; in November, seasonal opening hours can be limited, so check Historic Environment Scotland’s latest times before setting out. Entry is typically around £8–£10 for an adult, and sturdy shoes are worthwhile if the stonework is wet or icy.
Walk a few minutes along Broad Street to Tankerness House Museum, one of the best small museums in Kirkwall. Its archaeology displays, domestic interiors, and local history make a good contrast to the palaces. Plan on roughly an hour. Admission is generally free, though opening days and hours are particularly variable outside summer, so verify before relying on it; if it is closed, keep the visit flexible rather than trying to cram in another attraction.
Continue to the Orkney Wireless Museum, allowing 45–60 minutes for its characterful collection of radios, telephones, and communications equipment. It is a short town-centre walk, but check the museum’s November opening schedule in advance, as winter access may be by limited hours or appointment. Afterwards, settle in at The Brig Larder for coffee, baking, or a light lunch—budget about £8–£18 per person. This is a good point to slow the day down rather than rushing between indoor visits.
Spend the later afternoon wandering towards Kirkwall Harbour via the older streets around Harbour Street. The waterfront is especially atmospheric in November light, with fishing boats, wind-whipped quays, and plenty of opportunities to duck into a shop if the weather turns. Allow around an hour and bring a waterproof layer; the harbour can feel considerably colder than the sheltered centre.
For dinner, book Lucano’s Italian Restaurant if possible, particularly for a Friday evening. Expect roughly £20–£35 per person, and allow a short walk from the harbour back through the town centre. It is an easy, warming finish to a heritage-focused day; check the restaurant’s current winter opening hours before heading out.
After breakfast in Kirkwall, drive west on the A965 to Stromness, allowing roughly 25–30 minutes. Park in or around the town centre—North End and the harbour area are the most useful places to look, with some spaces free or time-limited outside the busier summer season. Begin at Stromness Museum, where an hour gives you a good grounding in the town’s maritime life, local natural history, and connections with Arctic exploration. November opening hours can be reduced or seasonal, so check before setting out; allow roughly £4–£6 for admission if an entry charge applies.
From the museum, wander down Stromness Harbour and Waterfront, following the stone lanes and shoreline for an hour or so. This is best taken slowly: look out for old pier buildings, sea-worn doorways, and views across Scapa Flow. Continue along the harbour to the Pier Arts Centre, a compact but excellent gallery in a restored waterfront setting. Allow about an hour for its contemporary and modern Scottish collection; admission is usually free, though a donation is welcome. The gallery’s winter hours may be limited, so this is another place worth checking on the morning of your visit.
Stop at Julia’s Cafe for soup, sandwiches, cake, or coffee—plan on approximately £8–£18 per person. It is a useful warming break before deciding whether the afternoon excursion is realistic. The planned visit to Scapa Flow Visitor Centre and Museum at Lyness on Hoy only works if the day’s ferry connections line up, and in late November sailings are infrequent and weather-sensitive. If you have checked the timetable in advance and can make the crossing comfortably, treat the museum as a 1½-hour visit focused on Orkney’s naval history; otherwise, do not force it into the day, as missing the return sailing would create a serious problem. Confirm both ferry times and the museum’s winter opening before leaving Stromness.
Return to Stromness for a relaxed dinner at The Ferry Inn, a traditional harbour-side pub with hearty food and a good choice of local drinks. Budget approximately £20–£35 per person, and consider booking or calling ahead because November service can be limited to selected evenings. After dinner, take a short walk along the waterfront if the weather is calm—the lights across Scapa Flow are particularly atmospheric—but keep the evening unhurried, as wind and rain can arrive quickly in winter.
Drive from Stromness towards Unstan Chambered Cairn, allowing roughly 15 minutes along the minor roads near Harray Loch. Aim to leave around 8:30am: November daylight is limited, and the cairn is best appreciated in the quiet, low light. The approach is rural, with only a small roadside parking area and uneven ground, so wear waterproof footwear and bring a torch. Allow 30–45 minutes; access is generally free, though the chamber may be dark or muddy after rain.
Continue for about 10 minutes to the Ring of Brodgar, parking at the marked car park and following the short surfaced path across the moor. Give yourself 45–60 minutes to walk the perimeter and take in the wide landscape rather than rushing straight around the stones. From here, the marked archaeological area of the Ness of Brodgar is nearby—allow another 30 minutes to look across the site and read the interpretation panels. Excavation activity is seasonal, so in November you will normally be viewing the landscape rather than entering an active dig.
Drive roughly 15 minutes west to Skara Brae at the Bay of Skaill. This is the day’s main visit, so allow about two hours for the visitor centre, introductory displays, and the path out to the exceptionally preserved Neolithic village. Seasonal opening hours can be considerably shorter in November, and some facilities may close on certain days, so check Historic Environment Scotland before setting out and confirm last admission. The site can be exposed to wind and rain; sturdy shoes and an extra layer make a real difference. Admission is typically in the region of £10–£12 for an adult, with parking usually included.
If it is open, follow the visit with Skaill House, immediately beside the archaeological site. Allow around an hour for the furnished rooms and the house’s connection with the Bay of Skaill landscape, but treat this as a bonus in November because seasonal closures are common. If the house is closed, use the time for a short shoreline walk instead—keep well back from the cliffs and allow extra time for the fading light.
Finish with an early dinner at The Merkister Hotel, about a 20-minute drive east across the Harray area. Ask for a table overlooking Harray Loch if possible; the view is particularly atmospheric at dusk, though November sunset is early. Budget approximately £25–£45 per person for dinner and check its seasonal opening days and kitchen hours before travelling, as winter service can be reduced. Leave Skara Brae with plenty of margin—roads are narrow, dark, and occasionally icy, and there is little benefit in driving these lanes after the evening has fully set in.
Start with Broch of Gurness, reached by the A966 from Birsay in roughly 20–25 minutes. Allow about an hour to walk around this remarkably complete Iron Age settlement above Eynhallow Sound; the sea views towards Rousay are especially striking in the low November light. The site is generally open to walk around even when staffed facilities are closed, but check Historic Environment Scotland before setting out for seasonal access and any admission arrangements. Wear waterproof boots—the approach and stonework can be slick, and the wind here is often stronger than it feels inland.
Continue south towards Rendall Doocot, allowing around 10–15 minutes by car. This small, distinctive dovecot makes a worthwhile 20-minute pause rather than a major stop, so treat it as a quiet roadside piece of Orkney’s agricultural history. There are few facilities nearby and mobile reception can be patchy; keep a drink and snack in the car, particularly as November cafés may not open every day.
Drive on to Birsay Earl’s Palace, roughly 15 minutes away, for about 45 minutes among the atmospheric Renaissance ruins. The exposed setting makes this a good place to check the weather before committing to the next walk. Then head to the causeway for Brough of Birsay, allowing 1½–2 hours including the walk across and time to explore the tidal island. Only cross during the published safe tide window—never rely on a quick visual check, as the causeway can become impassable surprisingly fast. Confirm the tide tables locally or through the official Orkney visitor information before leaving the palace, and bring a torch for the return if daylight is fading. If the tide does not work, enjoy the coastal views from the mainland rather than attempting the crossing.
Return to Kirkwall for dinner at The Bayleaf Delight, a dependable choice for warming Indian dishes after a cold coastal day; budget approximately £18–£30 per person. Book ahead if possible, since November opening days and evening hours can be reduced and restaurants have limited late-night alternatives. Allow roughly 35–45 minutes to drive back from Birsay, and take the main roads rather than lingering on the coast after dark—the roads are unlit, and winter weather can make the final stretch slower than expected.
Leave Evie around 8:00am and drive south via the A966, A965 and A960, allowing roughly 1 hour 20 minutes to 1 hour 40 minutes. November daylight is short, so an early start gives you time to linger without rushing. Make Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm your first stop; allow about 45 minutes to see the tiny, astonishingly decorated chapel built by Italian prisoners of war. It is usually open during daytime visiting hours, but winter access can be limited—check the latest local information before setting out and carry cash for the modest donation. Parking is immediately nearby.
From the chapel, continue south across the Churchill Barriers, the series of causeways linking the southern islands. Treat this as a slow scenic drive rather than a simple transfer: allow about an hour for the crossings and brief pull-ins, watching for exposed edges, spray and strong winds. The barriers offer wide views over Scapa Flow, but do not stop where there is no safe lay-by. Once across to South Ronaldsay, continue to St Margaret’s Hope, parking near the harbour before wandering its compact lanes and colourful waterfront. Allow around 45 minutes; in November, several shops may be closed, but the village is at its best for a quiet walk and photographs.
Drive out to Hoxa Head after lunch, allowing roughly 15 minutes from St Margaret’s Hope. The wartime battery and coastal paths are open-air and generally accessible at any time, but expect muddy ground, fierce wind and very limited shelter. Give yourself about an hour for the ruins and the broad views across Scapa Flow—on a clear day, the scale of the surrounding islands is impressive. Wear boots and avoid getting too close to cliff edges, particularly in poor visibility.
Return to St Margaret’s Hope for dinner at The Creel Restaurant, a good choice for local seafood and hearty fare. Budget approximately £25–£45 per person, and reserve ahead if possible: November opening days and evening hours can be restricted, with some island restaurants operating reduced winter schedules. After dinner, keep the evening simple; the drive back to your accommodation is dark and rural, and deer or sheep can appear unexpectedly on the roads.
From St Margaret’s Hope, begin at St Peter’s Kirk, a short drive around the village and one of the quieter historic corners of South Ronaldsay. Allow about 45 minutes to look around the old church and churchyard; the ground can be wet and uneven, so wear waterproof footwear. Continue south to Burwick Harbour, allowing roughly 15–20 minutes by car. Park near the harbour and spend another 45 minutes taking in the views across the Pentland Firth towards South Walls and Hoy. This is an exposed spot, so expect strong wind and check the tide and weather before lingering on the shore.
Drive north-west to The Tomb of the Eagles at Liddle, allowing about 15 minutes from Burwick Harbour. The site is reached across farmland and coastal ground, and the access arrangement can be weather-dependent; check locally before setting out and allow around 1½ hours. November daylight is limited, so go straight there rather than leaving it late. The tomb and surrounding cliffs feel particularly atmospheric in winter, but take care on slippery paths. The planned visit to Dwarfie Stane on Hoy is only practical if a suitable ferry connection, daylight, and sea conditions line up; treat it as an optional excursion rather than something to force into the day. Reaching it involves a ferry crossing and onward travel on Hoy, so confirm the timetable several days ahead—November sailings are limited and disruption is possible.
For a more dependable lunch stop, head to The Sands Hotel on Burray, roughly 35–45 minutes by car from Liddle, depending on conditions. It is a good place for coffee or a simple meal by the shore, with about £10–£25 per person to budget; check its November opening hours before driving over, as seasonal service can be reduced. Return to St Margaret’s Hope for dinner at The Murray Arms Hotel, where a relaxed local meal usually costs around £20–£35 per person. Reserve ahead if possible, particularly outside the summer season, and allow extra time on the dark roads: deer, sheep, standing water, and sudden coastal weather are all common after dusk.
After breakfast in St Margaret’s Hope, drive north to Kirkwall via the A961 and Churchill Barriers, allowing around 35–45 minutes in normal conditions. Leave with plenty of margin for November weather and winter road conditions—aim to reach town around 8:30–9:00am. Your first stop is the Orkney Craft and Tourist Centre, a useful final browse for locally made textiles, ceramics, food gifts, and any supplies you still need; allow about 45 minutes, and check its late-November opening time before setting out.
Continue into central Kirkwall for The Orkney Distilling Company, where you can browse the shop and, if open, sample some of its locally made gin products. Set aside roughly 45 minutes, but treat tastings as optional if you are driving to the airport. The shop’s seasonal hours can vary, so verify them in advance; otherwise, it is an easy final stop rather than something to build the airport transfer around.
For a breath of fresh air, drive or walk out to Peedie Sea, a small loch on the edge of Kirkwall where a short, quiet circuit often produces good views of winter waterbirds. Allow 30–45 minutes, wearing waterproof shoes—the path can be muddy after rain and exposed weather can make it feel colder than the distance suggests. Finish at Willows Coffee Shop for a final breakfast or takeaway coffee, budgeting approximately £7–£15 per person; confirm its opening time, as winter schedules may be reduced. From there, allow about 10–15 minutes by car to Kirkwall Airport, return the rental car, and be inside at least 90 minutes before departure. Fuel up before returning the vehicle if required by the rental agreement, and allow extra time for a slow final drive in poor weather.