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50-Day Japan Itinerary from Osaka to Osaka

Day 1 · Mon, Apr 19
Osaka, Japan

Arrival and Osaka

  1. Osaka Castle Park — Chūō; stretch your legs among castle grounds, gardens, and moats (late afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  2. Osaka Castle Museum — Osaka Castle; learn the city’s history from the landmark tower (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  3. Dotonbori — Namba; take in Osaka’s neon canalfront atmosphere (evening, ~1 hour).
  4. Mizuno — Dotonbori; try famous Osaka-style okonomiyaki (dinner, ¥2,000–4,000 per person).

Late Afternoon

After arriving in Osaka, make Osaka Castle Park your gentle first outing. From Osaka Station, take the JR Osaka Loop Line to Osakajokoen Station—about 10 minutes—then walk through the broad park toward the moats and castle grounds. Allow roughly 1½ hours to stretch your legs; the park is free, while the Osaka Castle Museum requires admission of around ¥1,200 and generally stays open until early evening, with last entry about 30 minutes before closing. The tower is worth entering for its historical displays and elevated city views, though the elevators can develop queues.

Evening

From Osakajokoen Station, take the Osaka Loop Line to Imamiya, then change for JR Namba, or use the subway via Morinomiya; allow 20–30 minutes depending on the connection. Wander through Dotonbori along the canal and Ebisu-bashi, where the illuminated signs and lively food streets provide an easy first taste of Osaka. For dinner, join the queue at Mizuno, a long-established okonomiyaki restaurant near the canal. Expect about ¥2,000–4,000 per person; it is popular, so arriving before the main dinner rush around 17:30–18:00 is sensible, and cash may be useful. Afterward, keep the evening unhurried with a short stroll through Hozenji Yokocho before returning to your accommodation.

Day 2 · Tue, Apr 20
Osaka, Japan

Osaka city highlights

  1. Shitennoji — Tennoji; visit one of Japan’s oldest Buddhist temple complexes (morning, ~1.5 hours).
  2. Tsūtenkaku — Shinsekai; see Osaka’s retro entertainment district from above (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Kuromon Ichiba Market — Nippombashi; sample seafood, fruit, and street food (lunch, ~1.5 hours; ¥1,500–3,000).
  4. Namba Yasaka Shrine — Namba; see its dramatic lion-head-shaped prayer hall (afternoon, ~30 minutes).
  5. Harijuku Gyoza no Ohsho Dotonbori — Dotonbori; enjoy casual gyoza and noodles (dinner, ¥1,000–2,000).

Morning

Start at Shitennoji, one of Japan’s oldest Buddhist temple complexes, arriving around 8:30–9:00 to enjoy the grounds before the tour groups and heat build. The inner precinct and garden usually open around 8:30, with admission roughly ¥300–500 depending on which areas are open; allow about 1½ hours. Walk through the Gokurakujodo Garden, inspect the five-story pagoda from outside, and take a quiet moment at the main hall. From Tennoji, it is about a 15-minute walk or a short subway ride toward Dobutsuen-mae for the next stop.

Late morning belongs to Tsūtenkaku and Shinsekai, Osaka’s wonderfully nostalgic entertainment district. The tower generally opens around 9:00, with observation-deck admission typically about ¥1,000–1,500; an hour is enough unless you want the extra attractions. Afterward, wander the covered Janjan Yokocho arcade and the brightly lit streets around Ebisubashi, where old-fashioned kushikatsu restaurants sit beneath extravagant signs. Keep the unspoken rule in mind: do not double-dip your sauce—most places now provide individual serving dishes anyway.

Lunch and Afternoon

Make your way to Kuromon Ichiba Market, roughly 15–20 minutes on foot from Shinsekai or a short subway ride from Ebisucho to Nippombashi. The market is busiest around lunchtime, and ¥1,500–3,000 will let you try grilled scallops, tuna, fruit, tamagoyaki, or a small wagyu skewer; Kuromon Sanpei is a reliable seafood stop, while the market stalls are best for grazing rather than sitting down to a large meal. After eating, walk or take the subway to Namba Yasaka Shrine, about 15 minutes away. The enormous lion-head-shaped prayer hall is the highlight and takes only 20–30 minutes, but the compact shrine is a useful breather before the evening crowds.

Evening

For dinner, head to Harijuku Gyoza no Ohsho Dotonbori, where a casual plate of gyoza and noodles generally costs ¥1,000–2,000. The restaurant is an easy finish to the day, close to the neon-lined Dotonbori canal; expect a queue at peak dinner time, so arriving around 17:30–18:00 is more comfortable. Afterward, take an unhurried walk along Tombori Riverwalk and the side streets toward Hozenji Yokocho—the latter is especially atmospheric after dark, with lantern-lit lanes and a moss-covered statue at Hozenji Temple. Osaka’s main sights are close together here, but wear comfortable shoes: today works best as a series of short walks rather than constant subway hopping.

Day 3 · Wed, Apr 21
Osaka, Japan

Osaka neighborhoods

  1. Osaka Museum of Housing and Living — Tenjinbashisuji; explore an Edo-period Osaka streetscape reconstruction (morning, ~1.5 hours).
  2. Tenjinbashisuji Shopping Street — Tenma; browse Japan’s longest traditional shopping arcade (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Nakanoshima Park — Nakanoshima; walk between riverside promenades and rose gardens (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  4. National Museum of Art, Osaka — Nakanoshima; view contemporary and modern Japanese art (afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  5. Ajinoya Honten — Namba; finish with classic okonomiyaki in a lively setting (dinner, ¥2,000–4,000).

Morning

Begin at the Osaka Museum of Housing and Living, a short walk from Tenjimbashisuji Rokuchome Station on the Tanimachi and Sakaisuji lines. Aim for opening time, usually around 10:00, as the recreated Edo-period streetscape is much more enjoyable before school groups arrive. You can stroll through mock merchant houses and lanes while lighting changes from morning to evening; allow about 1½ hours. Admission is generally around ¥600, though exhibitions and opening arrangements can change, so check the museum’s official site closer to the date.

Step straight onto Tenjinbashisuji Shopping Street, following the covered arcade south toward Tenma. This is the kind of place where you should browse rather than pursue a checklist: look for senbei shops, inexpensive kitchenware, old kissaten, and small counters selling freshly prepared snacks. Allow roughly 1½ hours, with lunch at whichever busy local shop catches your eye—many smaller eateries close between lunch and dinner, so avoid waiting too late. The arcade is mostly flat and easy to explore, and you can leave via Tenma Station or continue south toward the river.

Afternoon and Evening

Take the Sakaisuji Line from Ogimachi Station or Minamimorimachi Station toward Kitahama, then walk onto Nakanoshima Park. The riverside paths and rose gardens are a welcome change from the arcade, especially in late April when the greenery is fresh; allow about an hour for an unhurried walk between the Dojima River and Tosabori River. Continue west across Nakanoshima to the National Museum of Art, Osaka, an underground museum with a strong programme of modern and contemporary Japanese art. Set aside around 1½ hours; admission varies by exhibition, commonly about ¥430–¥1,500, and the museum is generally closed on Mondays. Its cafe is useful for a short break before the final stop.

For dinner, head to Ajinoya Honten in Namba—from Watanabebashi Station, take the Keihan Nakanoshima Line to Namba via a connection, or simply use a taxi if you are tired, usually around 15–20 minutes depending on traffic. Expect a lively, compact okonomiyaki restaurant and a possible queue, particularly around 18:00–19:30; arriving slightly before dinner rush is your best bet. Budget ¥2,000–4,000 per person for okonomiyaki, yakisoba, and drinks. Afterward, wander the nearby Hozenji Yokocho lanes if you still have energy, but keep the evening relaxed—tomorrow’s Nara start is best tackled early.

Day 4 · Thu, Apr 22
Nara, Japan

Nara heritage

Getting there from Osaka
JR Yamatoji Rapid from Osaka Station (45–55 min, ¥480–¥600). Use JR or Google Maps; depart around 07:30–08:00 for morning sightseeing.
  1. Todai-ji — Nara Park; stand beneath the world’s largest bronze Buddha hall (morning, ~1.5 hours).
  2. Nara Park — Nara Park; walk among the city’s free-roaming deer (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Kasuga Taisha — Kasugano; follow lantern-lined forest paths to the grand shrine (early afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Naramachi — Nara; explore preserved merchant houses and quiet lanes (afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  5. Kakinoha-zushi Hiraso Naramachi — Naramachi; try Nara’s distinctive persimmon-leaf sushi (lunch, ¥1,500–3,000).

Morning

Arrive in Nara around 8:30–9:00 and walk toward Todai-ji, entering through Nandaimon Gate. The temple generally opens from 7:30, with admission around ¥800, so you’ll beat most tour groups and have a quieter look at the enormous Daibutsuden hall and its bronze Buddha. Allow about 1½ hours, including time to notice the guardian statues beneath the gate and the scale of the surrounding grounds.

Afterward, spend the late morning wandering through Nara Park rather than following the busiest central paths. The deer are free-roaming, but feed them only with official shika-senbei crackers—about ¥200 per bundle—and bow once the crackers are gone, as some become persistent. Walk south and east through the park toward Kasugano, taking roughly 30–40 minutes with stops; keep food tucked away and avoid petting the deer, particularly around busy feeding areas.

Afternoon

Continue into the forest to Kasuga Taisha, where mossy stone lanterns and tall cedar trees make the approach feel much more secluded than the open park. The shrine grounds are free, while the inner paid area is usually around ¥500 and is worth considering for its rows of hanging bronze lanterns; opening hours vary seasonally, commonly from about 6:30 or 7:00 until 17:30. Allow 1½ hours, then walk downhill for about 25 minutes toward Naramachi. Have lunch at Kakinoha-zushi Hiraso Naramachi, a specialist in Nara’s pressed sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves; set meals are typically ¥1,500–3,000, and arriving by 12:00–12:30 is sensible because the compact restaurant can fill quickly.

Use the afternoon for an unhurried wander through Naramachi, the former merchant quarter. Look for narrow lanes, latticed townhouse fronts, small craft shops, and traditional homes with deep eaves rather than trying to cover every street. Most shops and museums open around 10:00 and close around 17:00–18:00, so this is a good time to browse before closing; keep the evening flexible for a café stop or an early return to the station.

Day 5 · Fri, Apr 23
Koya, Japan

Koyasan temple town

Getting there from Nara
JR to Shin-Imamiya, Nankai Koya Line to Gokurakubashi, then cable car and bus (3–3.5 hr, ¥2,500–¥3,000). Buy the Nankai Koyasan World Heritage Ticket via Nankai; depart by 06:30 for the listed morning activities.
  1. Koyasan Cable Car — Gokurakubashi–Koyasan; ascend dramatically into the temple mountain town (morning, ~30 minutes).
  2. Kongobu-ji — Koyasan; see the head temple’s sliding screens and rock garden (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Banryu Garden — Koyasan; pause in a compact Zen garden near the temple district (late morning, ~30 minutes).
  4. Okunoin — Koyasan; walk through Japan’s atmospheric cemetery to Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum (afternoon, ~2 hours).
  5. Shukubo temple lodging dinner — Koyasan; experience vegetarian shojin ryori and overnight temple hospitality (dinner, ¥3,000–6,000 if not included).

Morning

After the early transfer from Nara, arrive at Gokurakubashi and take the Koyasan Cable Car up the mountainside to Koyasan Station. The short ascent takes about five minutes, though the full rail-and-cable connection from Osaka usually takes 3–3½ hours; allow extra time for the local bus into the temple district. The Nankai Koyasan World Heritage Ticket is convenient for the transport and often includes discounts at major temples. From the station, take a bus toward Senjuinbashi or Kongobuji-mae, then walk to Kongobu-ji, Koyasan’s head temple. Set aside about an hour for the painted sliding screens, tatami rooms, and Banryu Garden, a small, quiet Zen garden nearby where you can pause before the busier pilgrimage sites. Temple admission is generally around ¥1,000, and shoes must be removed inside.

Afternoon

Have a simple lunch around Senjuinbashi, perhaps at Higurashi, Bon On Shya Café, or one of the noodle shops along Odawara-dori—many kitchens close between lunch and dinner, so aim for 11:30–13:30. Then take a bus to Okunoin-mae and spend the afternoon walking the atmospheric approach through Okunoin. The path passes immense cedar trees and centuries-old moss-covered tombs before reaching Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum; allow roughly two hours and wear comfortable shoes, as the route is longer and more uneven than it first appears. Photography is restricted near the innermost sacred buildings, and the forest can feel cool even in late April. Return by bus before dusk, when services become less frequent, and check in at your shukubo—temple lodging—before dinner.

Evening

Dinner at the shukubo is the main evening experience: expect beautifully arranged shojin ryori, with tofu, seasonal mountain vegetables, pickles, rice, and tea rather than meat or fish. It is usually included in the room rate, but if arranged separately, budget around ¥3,000–6,000. Dinner is commonly served around 17:30–18:30, so tell the temple in advance about allergies or dietary needs. Afterward, keep the evening quiet—an unhurried walk around the lantern-lit temple lanes is lovely, but avoid entering closed temple grounds. Many lodgings offer an early morning prayer service, often around 6:00, so set out clothes and confirm the start time with your hosts before bed.

Day 6 · Sat, Apr 24
Wakayama, Japan

Wakayama coast

Getting there from Koya
Bus to Gokurakubashi, Nankai Koya Line to Hashimoto, JR Wakayama Line to Wakayama (about 3 hr, ¥2,000–¥2,500). Tickets via Nankai/JR; depart early.
  1. Wakayama Castle — Wakayama; tour the hilltop castle and surrounding park (morning, ~1.5 hours).
  2. Wakayama Marina City — Kuroshio Market area; browse a waterfront seafood market and harbor complex (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Kuroshio Market — Marina City; watch seafood preparation and eat fresh local specialties (lunch, ¥2,000–4,000).
  4. Porto Europa — Marina City; stroll the European-style waterfront streetscape (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  5. Kimiidera — Kimiidera; visit a hillside temple with expansive coastal views (late afternoon, ~1 hour).

Morning

After arriving in Wakayama, head first to Wakayama Castle, ideally by taxi or the city bus from Wakayama Station—allow about 10–15 minutes, depending on traffic. The castle sits on a wooded hill, and the climb through Wakayama Castle Park is part of the appeal; allow around 1½ hours for the keep, stone walls, and views over the city. The keep generally opens around 9:00, with admission roughly ¥410, though opening hours and fees can change. From here, take a taxi toward Wakayama Marina City; it is about 25–30 minutes and much easier than piecing together buses.

Lunch

Spend late morning around Wakayama Marina City, a waterfront complex on a small island south of the city. Start at Kuroshio Market, where you can watch staff break down large tuna and browse counters selling local seafood, sushi, grilled fish, and Wakayama specialities such as wakame and shirasu. Choose from the market stalls rather than seeking a formal restaurant—¥2,000–4,000 is a comfortable lunch budget. The market commonly operates from around 10:00 to 17:00, but individual food counters may close earlier, so arrive before mid-afternoon.

Afternoon and Evening

After lunch, wander through Porto Europa, the marina’s compact European-style streetscape, with canals, pastel façades, and harbour views. It is more of a relaxed stroll than a major attraction, so an hour is plenty; check seasonal opening days, as some shops and facilities may close midweek or outside peak periods. Finish at Kimiidera, reached by taxi in roughly 15–20 minutes. This hillside temple is known for its long staircase, spring scenery, and broad views across Wakayama Bay; allow about an hour, and wear shoes with a firm grip. The temple grounds are generally open from morning until late afternoon, with a modest entry fee—often around ¥200–300. For dinner, return toward Wakayama Station and try Ide Shoten or another local shop for Wakayama-style ramen, but expect a queue at the most famous counters.

Day 7 · Sun, Apr 25
Shirahama, Japan

Shirahama seaside

Getting there from Wakayama
JR Limited Express Kuroshio from Wakayama to Shirahama (about 1 hr 25 min, ¥3,000–¥4,000 reserved). Book on JR-WEST Online Train Reservation; morning departure.
  1. Shirahama Energy Land — Shirahama; enjoy a light, quirky science-and-optics attraction (morning, ~1.5 hours).
  2. Shirahama Beach — Shirahama; relax on the resort’s broad white-sand waterfront (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Saki-no-Yu Onsen — Shirahama; soak in an open-air bath beside the Pacific (early afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Senjojiki — Shirahama; walk across wave-carved sandstone terraces (late afternoon, ~45 minutes).
  5. Toretore Market — Shirahama; eat exceptionally fresh Kii Peninsula seafood (lunch, ¥1,500–3,500).

Morning

Start at Shirahama Energy Land, aiming for opening time—typically around 9:30, though check the official schedule before setting out. This cheerfully old-fashioned science-and-optics attraction is more quirky than polished, with illusion rooms, balance experiments, and oddball exhibits; allow about 1½ hours. From Shirahama Station, it is easiest to take a local bus toward Shirahama Beach, or use a taxi if you are carrying luggage. Admission is usually around ¥2,000–¥3,000, and the attraction can be surprisingly entertaining on a rainy morning.

Walk down to Shirahama Beach afterward for a slower hour beside the water. The sand is famously pale and the bay is beautifully curved, but April sea temperatures are still cold, so think of this as a barefoot stroll rather than a swim. From the beach, take a short bus or taxi toward Toretore Market for lunch; choose a seafood bowl, grilled fish, or sashimi from one of the counter stalls, generally ¥1,500–3,500. It is a busy, casual market rather than a quiet restaurant, and the best selection is usually before mid-afternoon.

Afternoon

After lunch, continue by bus or taxi to Saki-no-Yu Onsen, one of Shirahama’s great experiences: an open-air bath built on the rocky shore with the Pacific directly below. Bring a small towel, which can usually be purchased at reception, and allow around 1½ hours including changing and relaxing. Admission is commonly about ¥500; opening hours can change with weather, tides, or maintenance, so check locally before making the trip. The baths are simple and traditional, and swimsuits are not worn.

Late afternoon is ideal for Senjojiki, when the low sun brings out the warm colors in the wave-carved sandstone. A short path leads across the broad natural terraces, but stay well back from the edges—waves and wet rock make them slippery, and the sea can be rough. Allow 45 minutes, then return by local bus or taxi toward your accommodation. If you still have energy, the nearby Shirahama resort streets are pleasant for a relaxed drink, but keep the evening unhurried after the onsen and coastal walking.

Day 8 · Mon, Apr 26
Tanabe, Japan

Kumano Kodo gateway

Getting there from Shirahama
JR Kii Line local train to Kii-Tanabe (about 15–20 min, ¥240–¥300). Buy locally; frequent daytime service.
  1. Kii-Tanabe Station Tourist Information Center — Tanabe; collect pilgrimage maps and confirm bus logistics (morning, ~30 minutes).
  2. Kii-Tanabe Ogigahama Beach — Tanabe; enjoy a quiet Pacific shoreline before heading inland (morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Kozanji Temple — Tanabe; visit a historic temple associated with Kumano pilgrimage traditions (late morning, ~1 hour).
  4. Tokei Shrine — Tanabe; see the traditional starting point for the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi route (afternoon, ~45 minutes).
  5. Kumano Kodo Nakahechi route briefing — Tanabe; prepare footwear, luggage forwarding, and next-day walking plans (late afternoon, ~45 minutes).
  6. A local kaiseki or izakaya near Kii-Tanabe Station — Kii-Tanabe; sample Wakayama seafood and regional dishes (dinner, ¥3,000–6,000).

Morning

Take a local JR Kii Line train from Shirahama to Kii-Tanabe—only about 15–20 minutes—and begin at the Kii-Tanabe Station Tourist Information Center, just outside the station. Allow around 30 minutes to collect the latest Kumano Kodo maps, check the next day’s bus connections, and ask about luggage forwarding to Hongu or your accommodation. The staff are particularly useful for confirming seasonal timetable changes, and this is the best place to buy or collect any pilgrimage stamps and route information before heading out. From the station, a taxi to Kii-Tanabe Ogigahama Beach takes roughly 10 minutes; budget about ¥1,000–1,500 each way, or use a local bus if the timing suits. Spend an unhurried hour along the broad Pacific shoreline—this is a quiet, wind-swept stretch rather than a swimming stop, and it makes a pleasant contrast with the pilgrimage landscapes ahead.

Late Morning and Afternoon

Continue by taxi, or return toward central Tanabe by bus, to Kozanji Temple, a historic hillside temple linked with the religious traditions of the Kumano region. Allow about an hour for the grounds; the temple is generally free, though donations are appreciated, and opening arrangements can be informal, so keep the visit respectful and quiet. From there, it is roughly a 15-minute walk or a short taxi ride to Tokei Shrine, one of Tanabe’s most important Kumano sites and the traditional western starting point of the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi route. Give yourself around 45 minutes to see the shrine and its compact precinct. In the late afternoon, return to the Kii-Tanabe Station Tourist Information Center or your accommodation for the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi route briefing: sort out walking shoes, rain gear, water, cash, and luggage forwarding, and download offline maps before leaving town. Shops and rural accommodation along the route can be limited, so pick up snacks and any breakfast supplies near the station.

Evening

For dinner, stay close to Kii-Tanabe Station, where the small streets of Ajikoji Alley are at their liveliest after dark. Look for a local kaiseki restaurant or izakaya serving Wakayama specialities such as fresh seafood, grilled fish, local vegetables, and Kishu umeboshi; allow ¥3,000–6,000 per person. Ajikoji is compact but atmospheric, and menus may be Japanese-only, so asking your accommodation for a reservation is worthwhile—especially on a busy evening. Keep the night fairly early: tomorrow’s bus into the Kumano Kodo region is best taken in the morning, and you will want a good breakfast and a charged phone before setting out.

Day 9 · Tue, Apr 27
Hongu, Japan

Kumano pilgrimage region

Getting there from Tanabe
Ryujin Bus from Kii-Tanabe Station to Hongu Taisha-mae (about 2 hr, ¥2,100–¥2,500). Check timetables on Kumano Travel/Ryujin Bus; depart early, ideally after the Takijiri connection.
  1. Takijiri-oji — Nakahechi; begin a short, iconic section of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage (morning, ~2.5 hours).
  2. Chikatsuyu-oji — Nakahechi; visit one of the route’s important sacred sites (early afternoon, ~30 minutes).
  3. Kumano Hongu Taisha — Hongu; reach the principal shrine of the Kumano faith (late afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Oyunohara — Hongu; stand beneath the world’s largest torii gate on the former shrine site (late afternoon, ~45 minutes).
  5. Wataze Onsen — Hongu; unwind in a riverside hot spring after the pilgrimage (evening, ~1.5 hours).
  6. A ryokan dinner in Hongu — Hongu; enjoy regional mountain cuisine (dinner, ¥3,000–6,000).

Morning

Begin at Takijiri-oji, the traditional gateway to the Kumano Kodo’s Nakahechi route. From the Takijiri-oji bus stop, allow about 2½ hours for the short but hilly section toward Takahara—this is a proper forest walk, with uneven stone steps and frequent damp patches, so wear shoes with good grip and carry water. The small shrine is worth a quiet look before setting off; the nearby Kumano Kodo Kan Pilgrimage Center is also useful for last-minute maps and trail information when open. If you are not planning to hike onward, arrange a bus or taxi connection in advance rather than relying on a random roadside pickup.

Afternoon

Continue by local bus or pre-arranged taxi deeper into Nakahechi to Chikatsuyu-oji, one of the route’s important sacred sites. Allow roughly 30 minutes here, including time to see the small shrine area and the old settlement around it. There are limited places to eat along this stretch, so use any available café or shop for a simple lunch and keep snacks in your daypack. From Chikatsuyu, continue toward Hongu; the journey follows wooded valleys and rivers, and arrival timing matters because the shrine precinct and surrounding shops become quiet toward late afternoon.

Late Afternoon and Evening

Walk up to Kumano Hongu Taisha, the spiritual heart of the pilgrimage region. Climb the broad stone staircase slowly—there are 158 steps—and allow about 1½ hours to appreciate the cedar-lined approach, vermilion shrine buildings, and peaceful atmosphere. From the shrine, it is about a 10-minute walk downhill to Oyunohara, the former shrine site beside the Kumano River, where the enormous torii gate rises above the rice fields. Spend around 45 minutes here, especially in the softer late-afternoon light. Then take a short bus or taxi ride to Wataze Onsen for a relaxing soak; check whether your accommodation provides bathing access or day-use entry, and bring a small towel—onsen towels are often available for purchase, but not always included. Finish with a ryokan dinner in Hongu, usually featuring local river fish, mountain vegetables, pickles, rice, and often a hotpot; budget approximately ¥3,000–6,000 if dinner is not included in your stay.

Day 10 · Wed, Apr 28
Tokushima, Japan

Shikoku entry in Tokushima

Getting there from Hongu
Drive/rental car via Route 168, Expressway toward Wakayama, then Hanwa–Awaji–Tokushima route (5–6 hr, ¥12,000–¥20,000 including fuel/tolls one-way). Reserve via Toyota Rent a Car or Nippon Rent-A-Car; leave by 06:00. Public transport is possible but involves multiple buses and is not practical.
  1. Shikoku Expressway and Tokushima ferry/bridge connection — Hongu to Tokushima; allow a full travel morning with transfers (morning, ~5–6 hours; depart early).
  2. Awa Odori Kaikan — Tokushima city; learn about Tokushima’s famous dance and see a live demonstration (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  3. Bizan Ropeway — Tokushima city; climb Mount Bizan for sunset city views (evening, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Tokushima Ramen Todai — Tokushima city; try the region’s rich pork-and-soy ramen (dinner, ¥1,000–2,000).

Morning

Leave Hongu around 6:00 for the long drive to Tokushima, allowing five to six hours with a couple of service-area stops. The practical route follows Route 168 north before joining the expressways toward Wakayama, crossing the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge and continuing across Awaji Island into Shikoku. Keep cash or an ETC card available for tolls, and expect mountain roads early on; refuel before leaving the Kumano area. With this distance, treat the morning as a transfer rather than trying to add another sightseeing stop.

Late Afternoon

After checking in and taking a short break, head to Awa Odori Kaikan, near the foot of Mount Bizan. The museum introduces Tokushima’s famous Awa Odori dance through costumes, music, and an entertaining live demonstration; allow about an hour. Demonstrations are commonly held several times daily, but schedules vary, so check the afternoon performance times before setting out. It is a short walk from Tokushima Station, or about 10 minutes by taxi from hotels around the station; admission is generally around ¥1,000–¥1,500.

Evening

From Awa Odori Kaikan, walk directly to the Bizan Ropeway—the lower station is beside the building—and ride up Mount Bizan for broad views over Tokushima, the Yoshino River plain, and, on a clear evening, the inland sea. Allow roughly 1½ hours including the ride, summit paths, and return; ropeway hours are usually extended into the evening, with a return ticket around ¥1,000–¥1,200, though the final descent changes seasonally. Come down before the last service and finish at Tokushima Ramen Todai, a casual local favorite around the station area. Order the signature pork-and-soy broth, often topped with a raw egg, for about ¥1,000–¥2,000; queues are normal at dinner, but they tend to move quickly.

Day 11 · Thu, Apr 29
Takamatsu, Japan

Takamatsu and Ritsurin

Getting there from Tokushima
JR Uzushio Limited Express (about 1 hr 10 min, ¥2,500–¥3,000). Book via JR-WEST/JR Shikoku; depart around 07:30.
  1. Ritsurin Garden — Takamatsu; explore one of Japan’s finest landscape gardens (morning, ~2.5 hours).
  2. Sanuki Udon Ueharaya — Takamatsu; eat hand-cut local udon for an inexpensive lunch (late morning, ¥500–1,500).
  3. Takamatsu Castle Park — Tamamo-chō; see a rare seaside hirajiro castle site (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  4. Kitahama Alley — Kitahama; browse converted warehouse cafés and boutiques (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  5. Yashima — Takamatsu outskirts; take in broad views over the Seto Inland Sea (evening, ~1.5 hours).

Morning

Arrive in Takamatsu in the morning and head straight to Ritsurin Garden, taking the Kotoden bus or a short taxi ride from the station—about 10–15 minutes. Allow around 2½ hours for the garden: follow the paths around the ponds, pine-covered islands, and carefully framed views toward Mount Shiun. The south garden is usually open from about 5:30–6:30 depending on the season, with admission around ¥500, so an early arrival is worthwhile. Don’t rush the teahouses; Kikugetsu-tei is a lovely place for matcha if it is open, particularly for the view across the pond.

Late morning, make your way to Sanuki Udon Ueharaya for a simple bowl of local noodles. Takamatsu’s udon shops are fast, inexpensive, and often close once the lunch rush ends, so aim for roughly 11:00–11:30. Expect about ¥500–1,500 depending on toppings; try cold udon with grated daikon or a warm bowl with tempura. From there, it is a short ride or roughly 20–25 minutes on foot toward the waterfront and Takamatsu Castle Park.

Afternoon and Evening

Spend about an hour at Takamatsu Castle Park, where the old castle site sits directly beside the Seto Inland Sea. This is one of the rare Japanese castle sites with a proper seawater moat, and the small boat rides are a pleasant option if operating. The park is generally open from around 5:30 or 6:30 until 17:00–18:00 depending on the season; admission is modest, usually around ¥200. Afterwards, walk north into Kitahama, where former port warehouses now hold small cafés, galleries, and design shops. Allow an hour to browse rather than planning a formal stop—Kitahama Alley is at its best when you simply duck into whichever space looks inviting.

For sunset, take a local bus or taxi from central Takamatsu toward Yashima—allow roughly 25–35 minutes, depending on traffic. The plateau’s lookout gives an expansive view over the islands and shipping lanes of the Seto Inland Sea, especially as the light softens. Check the final return bus carefully, as evening services are less frequent; a taxi back is the practical fallback. If you still have energy afterward, return to the station area for dinner—Takamatsu’s covered arcades are convenient for a relaxed meal without needing to travel far.

Day 12 · Fri, Apr 30
Naoshima, Japan

Naoshima art island

Getting there from Takamatsu
Shikoku Kisen ferry from Takamatsu Port to Miyanoura (about 50 min, ¥590). Buy at the port; take an early ferry and reserve Chichu Art Museum timed tickets in advance.
  1. Miyanoura Port — Naoshima; arrive early and orient yourself around the island’s art buses (morning, ~30 minutes).
  2. Chichu Art Museum — Naoshima; experience Tadao Ando’s dramatic underground galleries (morning, ~2 hours).
  3. Benesse House Museum — Benesse area; see art integrated into architecture and landscape (early afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Lee Ufan Museum — Benesse area; enjoy restrained sculpture in a serene Ando-designed setting (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  5. Naoshima Bath “I♥湯” — Miyanoura; relax in a playful contemporary-art bathhouse (early evening, ~1 hour).
  6. Udon or seafood near Miyanoura Port — Miyanoura; have a practical island dinner before departure or overnight stay (dinner, ¥1,500–3,000).

Morning

Take an early Shikoku Kisen ferry from Takamatsu Port to Miyanoura Port—the crossing takes about 50 minutes and costs roughly ¥590 one way. Aim to arrive by 8:30–9:00, when the island still feels quiet; ferries and art-site buses become noticeably busier later. At Miyanoura Port, spend about 30 minutes getting oriented around the bus stops, lockers, bicycle rentals, and the day’s island timetable. Your Chichu ticket should be booked for a fixed morning entry, and it is worth confirming the return bus before heading inland.

Ride the island bus to the Chichu Art Museum, allowing roughly 2 hours inside. The galleries are intentionally spare—works by Monet, James Turrell, and Walter De Maria are experienced through light, proportion, and silence rather than explanatory overload. Photography is restricted, so take your time with each room. Admission is usually around ¥2,500–3,000, with timed-entry tickets essential; bring a light layer, as the underground spaces can feel cool even in May. From there, continue by the dedicated art-area shuttle toward Benesse House Museum, rather than trying to walk the full distance on the road.

Afternoon and Evening

Give Benesse House Museum around 1½ hours, moving between the building’s galleries and its outdoor works set into the hillside and shoreline. This is one of the places where Naoshima’s appeal really clicks: the architecture, sea views, and art are designed as one experience. Admission is generally around ¥1,300–1,500, and the museum’s café is a convenient lunch option if you prefer not to lose time returning toward the port. After lunch, walk or take the short art shuttle to the Lee Ufan Museum for about an hour. Its restrained sculptures and shadowy Ando-designed rooms provide a deliberately calm contrast to the larger Benesse House complex. Keep an eye on the final shuttle times—service is limited and walking between the Benesse sites is possible but hilly.

Return to Miyanoura in the late afternoon and spend an hour at Naoshima Bath “I♥湯”, the wonderfully eccentric art bathhouse near the port. Admission is typically around ¥600–700; towels and toiletries can be rented or bought, and tattoos may require covering, so check the current policy. For dinner, try Uogashi 7070, near Miyanoura Port, for seafood and simple island dishes, or Umikoto, a casual local option for udon and small plates; allow roughly ¥1,500–3,000 per person. If you are catching a ferry back to Takamatsu, do not leave dinner too late—be at the port 20–30 minutes before departure, especially if travelling with a bicycle or luggage.

Day 13 · Sat, May 1
Matsuyama, Japan

Matsuyama castle town

Getting there from Naoshima
Ferry to Takamatsu, JR Marine Liner to Okayama, Shinkansen to Fukuyama, then JR Yosan Limited Express to Matsuyama (about 5–6 hr, ¥12,000–¥15,000). Book via JR-WEST Online; depart on the first ferry.
  1. Matsuyama Castle — Matsuyama center; tour one of Japan’s best-preserved feudal castles (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Bansuiso — Matsuyama center; visit an elegant French Renaissance-style villa (late morning, ~45 minutes).
  3. Dogo Onsen — Dogo; soak in Japan’s famously historic bathhouse district (afternoon, ~2 hours).
  4. Dogo Park — Dogo; walk the former Yuzuki Castle grounds (late afternoon, ~45 minutes).
  5. Goshiki — Dogo; sample Matsuyama’s colorful five-flavor noodles or local cuisine (dinner, ¥2,000–4,000).

Morning

After the long transfer from Naoshima, aim to arrive in Matsuyama around lunchtime rather than trying to force an early start. Leave your luggage at your hotel or the station lockers, then take the short tram ride toward Okaido and walk or ride the ropeway up to Matsuyama Castle. Allow about two hours for the castle and grounds: the ropeway is easier than the chairlift if you have bags, and the final approach is steep. The castle keep, usually open from around 8:30 to 17:00, costs roughly ¥520; from the hilltop you get an excellent view across the city toward the Seto Inland Sea. Have a quick lunch near Okaido Shopping Street before continuing—Umenomaeda is a reliable choice for local udon and rice dishes, generally ¥800–1,500.

A 10-minute walk from Okaido brings you to Bansuiso, an elegant French Renaissance-style villa tucked into the hillside below the castle. It is usually open from 9:00 to 18:00 and admission is often free, though exhibition rooms may charge a small fee. Spend about 45 minutes looking around the ornate rooms and galleries; it is a peaceful contrast to the castle crowds and a good place to slow the pace after your arrival.

Afternoon and Evening

From central Matsuyama, take the tram to Dogo Onsen—around 20 minutes—and settle into the historic bathhouse district for the afternoon. The main building, Dogo Onsen, is currently subject to phased restoration and operating arrangements can change, so check the official schedule on the day; if the main bathhouse is busy or partially restricted, Dogo Onsen Tsubakinoyu is the spacious local alternative. Budget roughly ¥460–1,000 depending on the bath and service, and bring a small towel or rent one at the counter. After soaking, stroll the surrounding arcades for orange juice, botchan-dango and small craft shops.

Finish with an easy walk through Dogo Park, the former site of Yuzuki Castle. The park is free and takes about 45 minutes, with broad lawns, wooded paths and a modest museum area that is generally open until late afternoon. For dinner, go to Goshiki near the Dogo shopping street and order the restaurant’s distinctive five-flavor noodles, along with local dishes such as taiめし sea-bream rice; allow ¥2,000–4,000 per person. It is worth arriving before 19:00 if you want a relaxed table, especially on a weekend.

Day 14 · Sun, May 2
Uchiko, Japan

Uchiko and western Ehime

Getting there from Matsuyama
JR Yosan Limited Express Uwakaze to Uchiko (about 25–35 min, ¥1,500–¥2,000). Book via JR Shikoku or buy at Matsuyama Station; morning departure.
  1. Uchiko-za — Uchiko; tour a beautifully restored traditional kabuki theater (morning, ~1 hour).
  2. Uchiko Yokaichi Gokoku Preservation District — Uchiko; stroll white-plastered merchant streets (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Mokuroku Museum — Uchiko; learn about the town’s wax and commerce history (early afternoon, ~1 hour).
  4. Tenjin Washi — Uchiko area; see traditional Japanese papermaking in a rural setting (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  5. A local taimeshi restaurant in Uchiko — Uchiko; eat Ehime’s sea bream rice specialty (lunch, ¥1,500–3,000).

Morning

Take the morning JR Yosan Limited Express Uwakaze from Matsuyama to Uchiko—about 25–35 minutes—and begin at Uchiko-za, roughly a 10-minute walk from the station. Aim for the first tour, usually from around 9:00; admission is generally about ¥400–600, and the guided visit takes close to an hour. This beautifully preserved wooden kabuki theatre is small enough to appreciate the backstage mechanisms, dressing rooms, and steep audience seating without feeling rushed. Tour times and opening days can vary, so check locally at Uchiko Station if you arrive early.

From Uchiko-za, walk into the Uchiko Yokaichi Gokoku Preservation District, allowing about 1½ hours to wander rather than following a strict route. The best stretch is along the quiet lanes of white-plastered merchant houses, with dark wooden trim, old shopfronts, and occasional views into traditional courtyards. It is a good place to slow down and look at architectural details; most buildings are private residences, so keep voices low and avoid photographing open interiors unless invited. For lunch, settle into a local taimeshi restaurant in central Uchiko—expect roughly ¥1,500–3,000 for Ehime’s sea-bream rice, usually served with seasoned rice and local side dishes. Arrive before 12:30 if possible, as the smaller restaurants can fill quickly.

Afternoon and Evening

After lunch, visit the Mokuroku Museum, a short walk from the preservation district, for about an hour. The exhibits give useful context to Uchiko’s prosperity through wax production, commerce, and merchant networks, making the handsome streets you have just explored more meaningful; allow roughly ¥300–500 for admission and check the day’s closing time, often around 16:30–17:00. Continue by taxi or pre-arranged local transport to Tenjin Washi, a rural papermaking workshop in the Uchiko area. Allow an hour to see the traditional process and the quieter countryside beyond the town centre. Workshops and demonstrations may operate on a reservation or limited schedule, so confirm availability through the local tourist office before leaving Uchiko Station; bring cash for small paper goods. Return to Uchiko in the late afternoon, when the preserved streets are particularly mellow, and keep the evening unplanned—this is a compact town best enjoyed with a final café stop or a slow walk back toward the station rather than more sightseeing.

Day 15 · Mon, May 3
Kochi, Japan

Kochi Pacific coast

Getting there from Uchiko
JR Yosan Limited Express to Uwajima, then bus or train via Nakamura/Kubokawa toward Kochi (about 4–5 hr, ¥4,500–¥6,000). Check JR Shikoku and Kochi Nankoku Bus; leave early.
  1. Katsurahama — Kochi south coast; visit a dramatic Pacific beach and coastal park (morning, ~1.5 hours).
  2. Sakamoto Ryoma Memorial Museum — Katsurahama; explore the life of Kochi’s celebrated reformer (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Katsurahama Aquarium — Katsurahama; see approachable local marine-life exhibits (early afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Hirome Market — Kochi center; graze on katsuo tataki and local dishes at communal tables (dinner, ¥2,000–4,000).
  5. Harimayabashi — Kochi center; see the small bridge linked to a famous local love story (evening, ~30 minutes).

Morning

After the long transfer from Uchiko, aim to reach Kochi around lunchtime rather than trying to squeeze in city sightseeing immediately. Leave your luggage at the hotel or Kochi Station, then take the Kochi Tosaden bus toward Katsurahama—allow roughly 40–50 minutes each way. If you have a rental car, parking around the coastal park is straightforward, though it can fill on weekends and holidays.

Start at Katsurahama, where the broad Pacific opens dramatically beyond the curving beach. Swimming is prohibited because of strong currents, but the promenade, pine trees, and small coastal shrines make this a beautiful place to stretch your legs; allow about 1½ hours. Walk uphill through the park to the Sakamoto Ryoma Memorial Museum, usually open around 9:00–17:00 with admission commonly around ¥500–¥800. The exhibits are particularly useful if you have encountered Ryoma’s name elsewhere in Kochi: the museum explains his role in the political upheaval that brought the Tokugawa era to an end, with excellent views back over the Pacific.

Afternoon and Evening

Continue to the Katsurahama Aquarium, just a short walk within the same coastal complex. It is compact and pleasantly old-fashioned rather than a major city aquarium, with local fish, turtles, and hands-on displays; allow around 1½ hours and check the current closing time, often around 17:00. Return to central Kochi by bus or taxi, take a break at your accommodation, and head out again around 18:00.

For dinner, settle in at Hirome Market, near Obiyamachi. It is informal and lively: buy a tray of seared katsuo tataki, local dumplings, fried dishes, or beer from the individual stalls, then look for an open communal table. Expect ¥2,000–4,000 per person, and go earlier if you want more choice—seating becomes competitive later in the evening. Finish with a short walk to Harimayabashi, Kochi’s small red bridge, associated with the city’s well-known love story. It takes only about 30 minutes, but the illuminated bridge and surrounding shopping arcades are a pleasant final glimpse of central Kochi.

Day 16 · Tue, May 4
Kochi, Japan

Kochi city and surroundings

  1. Kochi Castle — Kochi center; climb through one of Japan’s few surviving original castles (morning, ~1.5 hours).
  2. Kochi Castle History Museum — Kochi center; add context to Tosa’s samurai and political history (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Sunday Market — Kochi Castle approach; browse produce, snacks, crafts, and farm goods (lunch, ¥1,000–2,500).
  4. Chikurin-ji — Godaisan; visit a peaceful temple on the Shikoku pilgrimage route (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  5. Godaisan Observatory — Godaisan; look across Kochi and the Pacific plain (late afternoon, ~30 minutes).
  6. Kochi local izakaya — Downtown; try seared bonito and Tosa sake (dinner, ¥3,000–5,000).

Morning

Start at Kochi Castle, arriving close to opening—usually 9:00—before the steep stone approaches become hot. This is one of Japan’s few castles retaining both its original keep and palace buildings, so allow about 1½ hours to climb through the gates and wooden interiors. The top floor gives a particularly good view over central Kochi; wear shoes that are easy to remove, as the castle stairs are narrow and quite steep. From the castle grounds, walk a few minutes to the Kochi Castle History Museum. Allow around an hour for its displays on Tosa’s samurai families, the domain’s politics, and local history; combined admission is often around ¥800–1,000, and museum hours are generally 9:00–18:00, though confirm the 2027 schedule.

Lunch

Walk down toward the castle approach for the Sunday Market, which stretches along the broad avenue toward Kochi Station. It is one of the city’s best places to graze: look for local citrus, mountain vegetables, grilled snacks, sweet potato treats, and handmade farm goods rather than planning a formal meal. Budget ¥1,000–2,500, and bring cash and a reusable bag. The market is normally busiest from late morning and winds down by mid-afternoon, so this is the right time to browse while stalls are fully stocked.

Afternoon and Evening

After lunch, take a taxi or the MY-YU Bus toward Godaisan—allow roughly 20–30 minutes, depending on traffic—and visit Chikurin-ji, temple number 31 on the Shikoku pilgrimage. Its mossy approach, red gate, and quiet hillside garden make a welcome change from the city; allow about an hour, and remember that the temple grounds are free while the garden and treasure hall may charge a small separate admission. Continue uphill to the Godaisan Observatory for a 30-minute view over Kochi’s rooftops, rice fields, and the Pacific plain. Buses are infrequent, so check the return time before exploring, or use a taxi back downtown. Finish at a local Kochi izakaya around Harimayabashi or Obiyamachi; order lightly seared bonito tataki, local vegetables, and a glass of Tosa sake. Expect ¥3,000–5,000 per person, and choose a counter-style place where the bonito is seared to order rather than a large tourist restaurant.

Day 17 · Wed, May 5
Iya, Japan

Shikoku mountains

Getting there from Kochi
JR Dosan Limited Express to Oboke, then local bus/taxi into Iya Valley (about 2–3 hr, ¥3,000–¥5,000). Book trains via JR Shikoku; reserve Iya buses where possible and depart early.
  1. Oboke Gorge sightseeing boat — Oboke; cruise through steep metamorphic cliffs (morning, ~1 hour).
  2. Kazurabashi — Iya Valley; cross the famous vine bridge above the river (late morning, ~45 minutes).
  3. Biwa Waterfall — Iya Valley; walk to a scenic waterfall beside the bridge area (late morning, ~30 minutes).
  4. Ochiai Village — Higashi-Iya; view preserved hillside farmhouses and mountain terraces (afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  5. Iya Valley soba restaurant — Iya; eat handmade buckwheat noodles with mountain vegetables (lunch, ¥1,500–3,000).

Morning

From Oboke Station, begin with the Oboke Gorge sightseeing boat, ideally on a morning departure when the river is usually calmer and the light catches the layered cliffs. The cruise takes about an hour; allow roughly ¥1,500–2,000, with departures subject to river conditions. The landing is a short taxi ride from the station, and it is worth confirming the boat schedule before leaving Kochi, as services can be less frequent outside peak periods. Afterward, continue by taxi or the local Iya-bound bus toward Kazurabashi, allowing around 30–40 minutes depending on the connection.

Late morning is for Kazurabashi, the celebrated vine bridge suspended above the Iya River. Crossing takes only 10–15 minutes, but allow about 45 minutes for the approach, queues, and views through the gaps in the woven floor; admission is generally around ¥550–600. Wear shoes with a secure sole—the bridge can feel slippery after rain. From the bridge area, a short walk leads to Biwa Waterfall, a pretty 30-minute detour tucked among the trees. The surrounding rest area is also a sensible place to pause before continuing deeper into the valley.

Lunch and Afternoon

Have lunch at an Iya Valley soba restaurant near the bridge area or along the route toward Higashi-Iya. Look for handmade soba served with mountain vegetables, wild mushrooms, or locally grown ingredients; expect roughly ¥1,500–3,000. Small restaurants may close once their prepared noodles and toppings sell out, so aim for lunch around 12:00–12:30 rather than relying on a late meal. Then take a pre-arranged taxi into Ochiai Village, about 30–40 minutes farther along the valley roads. Allow 1½ hours to wander the steep lanes and viewpoints, where preserved farmhouses cling to terraced hillsides above the river. The best experience is unhurried: pause at the village outlooks, notice the hand-worked fields, and allow extra time for the narrow, winding road back toward your accommodation.

Day 18 · Thu, May 6
Okayama, Japan

Okayama garden city

Getting there from Iya
Bus/taxi to Oboke, JR Dosan Limited Express to Takamatsu, then Marine Liner to Okayama (about 3–4 hr, ¥4,000–¥6,000). Use JR Shikoku; allow connection time.
  1. Okayama Korakuen — Okayama center; wander one of Japan’s three great gardens (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Okayama Castle — Asahi River; see the distinctive black exterior and castle exhibits (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Hayashibara Museum of Art — Okayama center; view a refined collection of Japanese art and crafts (early afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Kibitsu Shrine — northwest Okayama; walk its celebrated long covered corridor (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  5. Azuma Sushi — Okayama center; try local barazushi and seafood specialties (dinner, ¥2,000–4,000).

Morning

After the transfer from Iya, leave your luggage at your hotel or Okayama Station lockers and head to Okayama Korakuen by tram toward Shiroshita, followed by a short walk. Aim to arrive around 9:00, when the garden is at its calmest; entry is usually about ¥500, and two hours gives you time to follow the paths around the ponds, tea houses, and gently shaped lawns without rushing. The garden is especially good for a slow start after a mountain travel day.

Cross the nearby Asahi River on foot to Okayama Castle, whose black lacquered exterior has earned it the nickname “Crow Castle.” Allow about an hour for the exhibits and interior displays; the castle generally opens around 9:00 and admission is commonly about ¥400–500, with combination tickets sometimes available with Korakuen. For lunch, stay in the Uchisange area or return toward the station for a quick bowl of noodles rather than making this a heavy meal—the afternoon includes another museum and a trip across the city.

Afternoon

Walk or take a short tram ride back toward central Okayama for the Hayashibara Museum of Art, near Okayama Prefectural Museum and the riverside. It is a compact, beautifully curated museum specialising in Japanese paintings, ceramics, lacquerware, and textiles; allow about 1½ hours. Opening days and exhibitions can vary, so check the museum’s schedule before setting out—admission is typically around ¥500–1,000. From central Okayama, take the JR Kibi Line from Bizen-Ichinomiya Station area toward Kibitsu Station; the shrine is a short walk from the station. Spend about an hour at Kibitsu Shrine, particularly along its remarkable 360-metre covered corridor, and look for the long timber worship hall and distinctive architectural details. The shrine grounds are free; the inner garden and special areas may have separate fees.

Evening

Return to Okayama Station and settle in at Azuma Sushi, a dependable local choice for dinner rather than chasing a generic station meal. Order barazushi, Okayama’s scattered-style sushi topped with local seafood and vegetables, and add a few seasonal sashimi pieces if available; expect roughly ¥2,000–4,000 per person. This is a good evening to keep unhurried—after dinner, stroll through the station’s Ichiban-gai shopping arcade or along the Nishigawa Canal, where the illuminated waterway makes a pleasant short walk before turning in.

Day 19 · Fri, May 7
Kurashiki, Japan

Kurashiki canal quarter

Getting there from Okayama
JR Sanyo Line from Okayama to Kurashiki (15–20 min, ¥330). Buy locally; morning trains are frequent.
  1. Ohara Museum of Art — Kurashiki Bikan; see Western masterpieces in Japan’s pioneering private art museum (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter — Kurashiki center; stroll willow-lined canals and preserved warehouses (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Achi Shrine — Kurashiki; climb above the old quarter for city views and quiet gardens (early afternoon, ~45 minutes).
  4. Kurashiki Folk Craft Museum — Bikan; browse regional ceramics, textiles, and everyday objects (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  5. Kappa — Kurashiki; enjoy set meals and local fish near the canal district (dinner, ¥2,000–4,000).

Morning

Take a morning JR Sanyo Line train from Okayama Station to Kurashiki Station—about 15–20 minutes—then walk roughly 15 minutes through the shopping streets to the Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter. Start at the Ohara Museum of Art when it opens, usually around 9:00, and allow about two hours. This pioneering private museum is unusually strong on Western art, with works by El Greco, Monet, Picasso, and nearby Japanese modernists; admission is generally around ¥2,000. Arriving early makes a real difference, particularly on weekends and public holidays.

Afterward, wander through the Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter, following the canal and willow-lined lanes around Honmachi-dori and Higashimachi. The preserved white-walled storehouses now hold small galleries, denim shops, and cafés, but the quieter side lanes are more rewarding than rushing between them. Stop for a light lunch at Mamakari-tei or one of the local set-meal counters around the quarter; look for mamakari, a small pickled fish that is one of Okayama’s regional specialties.

Afternoon

Climb the stone steps to Achi Shrine, reached from the old quarter in about 10 minutes. The shrine grounds are free and usually accessible throughout the day; allow 45 minutes for the vermilion gates, enormous sacred rocks, and views over Kurashiki’s rooftops. It is a pleasant place to pause after the museum and canal walk, especially when the afternoon streets become busier. Descend back toward the canal and spend about an hour at the Kurashiki Folk Craft Museum, generally open from around 9:00 to 17:00 with admission roughly ¥1,000. Its collection of ceramics, textiles, woodwork, and everyday tools gives the historic buildings more context than the souvenir shops alone do.

Evening

For dinner, walk back toward the canal district and settle in at Kappa, a long-established local restaurant known for set meals and seasonal fish. Expect roughly ¥2,000–4,000 per person, depending on the catch and whether you order a fuller set. Try a meal featuring local seafood or Okayama produce rather than filling up on familiar dishes. Afterward, take one last slow circuit along the Kurashiki Canal: the warehouses are softly lit after the day-trippers thin out, and this is when the Bikan quarter feels most atmospheric.

Day 20 · Sat, May 8
Hiroshima, Japan

Hiroshima history

Getting there from Kurashiki
JR Sanyo Shinkansen from Shin-Kurashiki to Hiroshima (about 1 hr, ¥5,000–¥6,000). Book via SmartEX or JR-WEST; depart early for the Peace Museum.
  1. Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum — Peace Memorial Park; reflect on the atomic bombing and its aftermath (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park — Naka Ward; visit memorials along the Motoyasu River (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Atomic Bomb Dome — Motoyasu River; see one of the city’s most powerful surviving structures (noon, ~30 minutes).
  4. Hondori Shopping Street — Downtown; browse the covered arcade and pause for coffee (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  5. Okonomiyaki Nagata-ya — near Peace Park; eat Hiroshima-style layered okonomiyaki (dinner, ¥1,500–3,000).

Morning

Take an early Sanyo Shinkansen from Shin-Kurashiki Station to Hiroshima, aiming to arrive around 8:30–9:00 so you can reach the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum soon after opening. From Hiroshima Station, take the Hiroshima Electric Railway tram to Fukuromachi or Chuden-mae—roughly 15–20 minutes—or use a taxi if you have luggage. The museum usually opens at 7:30 or 8:30 depending on the season, with admission around ¥200; allow about two hours. Begin in the East Building, then take your time with the personal testimonies and belongings in the Main Building. It is a confronting visit, so avoid packing another major museum immediately afterward.

Late Morning and Noon

Walk through Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park after leaving the museum, following the paths beside the Motoyasu River toward the Cenotaph for the A-Bomb Victims and Children’s Peace Monument. Give yourself around 1½ hours rather than rushing between the memorials; the riverside lawns and shaded benches provide quiet places to pause. Continue to the Atomic Bomb Dome, a few minutes away across the river, and view it from both the park side and the nearby Motoyasu Bridge. Allow about 30 minutes—the structure is best approached quietly, with time to absorb how sharply it contrasts with the surrounding modern city.

Afternoon and Evening

From the Dome, walk east for 10–15 minutes into downtown along Hondori Shopping Street, Hiroshima’s covered central arcade. Browse the small clothing shops, local food stalls, and department stores, then stop for coffee at Obscura Coffee Roasters Hondori or Kissa Fugetsudo if you prefer a more traditional café atmosphere. Keep lunch light here if you want the full okonomiyaki experience later; a simple set meal or coffee break is enough. In the evening, walk back toward Peace Park to Okonomiyaki Nagata-ya, where the Hiroshima-style version is built in layers with cabbage, noodles, pork, and egg rather than mixed together. Expect roughly ¥1,500–3,000 per person; arrive before 6:00 or be prepared to queue, as this popular spot fills quickly.

Day 21 · Sun, May 9
Hatsukaichi, Japan

Miyajima island

Getting there from Hiroshima
JR Sanyo Line to Miyajima-guchi (about 25 min, ¥420), then JR West ferry to Miyajima if staying there (10 min, ¥200–¥400). Buy locally; early departure.
  1. Itsukushima Shrine — Miyajima; see the celebrated shrine and floating torii setting (morning, ~1.5 hours).
  2. Daisho-in — Miyajima; explore a mountain temple filled with statues and prayer halls (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Mount Misen Ropeway — Miyajima; ascend for Seto Inland Sea panoramas (early afternoon, ~2 hours).
  4. Momijidani Park — Miyajima; descend through maple woods and streamside paths (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  5. Anagomeshi Ueno — Miyajima-guchi; try Hiroshima’s famed grilled conger-eel rice (dinner, ¥2,000–4,000).

Morning

Take an early JR Sanyo Line train from Hiroshima Station to Miyajima-guchi, then walk to the ferry pier for the short crossing to Miyajima. Aim to reach Itsukushima Shrine around opening time, before the island’s day-trippers arrive. The shrine’s vermilion halls and famous torii are especially atmospheric with the morning light; check the tide table beforehand, since the torii appears to float at high tide but is reachable on foot at low tide. Admission is usually around ¥300, and allow about 1½ hours. From the shrine, walk uphill for roughly 15 minutes to Daisho-in, a wonderfully atmospheric temple complex filled with small Jizō statues, prayer wheels, lanterns, and shaded halls. Set aside another 1½ hours, taking your time rather than treating it as a quick photo stop.

Afternoon

Continue toward the Mount Misen Ropeway station, allowing around 15–20 minutes from Daisho-in. The ropeway journey involves a transfer and takes roughly 20 minutes each way; a return ticket is generally around ¥2,000. Allow about two hours including the ride, the observatory, and the short walks around the summit. On clear days you’ll see the scattered islands of the Seto Inland Sea stretching toward Shikoku. Bring water and a light layer—the summit is cooler and windier than the waterfront, and the ropeway can pause in strong weather. Descend toward Momijidani Park, following the forest route through maple trees and beside small streams. The walk takes about 20–30 minutes downhill, and the park is a good place to slow the pace for an hour before returning toward the ferry area. Keep an eye out for deer, but don’t feed them; they are accustomed to visitors and can be persistent around bags and maps.

Evening

Take the ferry back to Miyajima-guchi and finish with dinner at Anagomeshi Ueno, a short walk from the station. This long-established local institution is known for grilled conger eel served over rice, with portions generally costing ¥2,000–4,000. It can attract a queue, particularly around the usual dinner hour, so arriving a little before 5:30 p.m. is sensible; takeaway is a useful fallback if the dining room is full. The nearby station area is quieter than Miyajima itself after the last sightseeing boats have gone, making it an easy place to end the day before returning to Hiroshima or settling in for the night.

Day 22 · Mon, May 10
Onomichi, Japan

Onomichi temple town

Getting there from Hatsukaichi
JR Sanyo Line from Miyajima-guchi/Hatsukaichi to Hiroshima, then onward to Onomichi (about 1 hr 45 min, ¥1,500–¥2,000). Buy locally; depart early.
  1. Senkoji Temple — Onomichi; ride or walk uphill for harbor and island views (morning, ~1 hour).
  2. Senkoji Park — Onomichi; follow scenic paths through the hillside landscape (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Onomichi Hondori Shopping Street — Onomichi center; browse local sweets, crafts, and cafés (noon, ~1 hour).
  4. Saikokuji Temple — Onomichi; visit a quieter temple with a distinctive gate and pagoda (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  5. Onomichi U2 — Onomichi waterfront; relax in a renovated warehouse complex by the harbor (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  6. Onomichi ramen near the waterfront — Onomichi; sample the city’s soy-based noodle specialty (dinner, ¥1,000–2,000).

Morning

After arriving from Hatsukaichi, leave your bags at your accommodation or in the lockers at Onomichi Station, then head uphill to Senkoji Temple. The easiest option is the Senkoji Ropeway, which takes only a few minutes from the town centre; walking up through the narrow slopes takes around 20–30 minutes and is more atmospheric, though the steps are steep. Allow about an hour at the temple, whose terrace looks across the harbour and the scattered islands of the Seto Inland Sea. The ropeway generally begins operating around 9:00, with fares around ¥500 one way or ¥700–¥800 return, but check the day’s timetable locally.

From the temple, follow the paths through Senkoji Park, taking your time with the viewpoints, rock formations, and hillside lanes rather than rushing downhill. Around noon, descend toward Onomichi Hondori Shopping Street, a mostly covered arcade lined with small confectioners, craft shops, and old-fashioned cafés. This is a good place for a relaxed lunch or a coffee; look for local lemon sweets and Setouchi citrus products, which make useful edible souvenirs. Most shops open from roughly 10:00 or 11:00 and begin closing around 18:00.

Afternoon and Evening

After browsing the Hondori area, walk west through the quieter residential lanes to Saikokuji Temple—allow about 15–20 minutes uphill. Its large distinctive gate and bright pagoda make it one of Onomichi’s more memorable temple stops, but it is generally much calmer than the better-known hillside sites. Spend about an hour exploring the grounds, then return toward the waterfront and continue to Onomichi U2, a renovated warehouse complex beside the harbour. Settle in for an hour at one of its cafés or shops, and enjoy the contrast between the old temple town and the sleek cycling-and-design atmosphere of the waterfront. The complex is a short walk from Onomichi Station and is especially pleasant in the late afternoon.

For dinner, stay near the harbour and try Onomichi ramen, known for its clear soy-based broth, small pieces of pork fat, and thin noodles. Onomichi Ramen Tani near the station is a convenient choice, while Matsuya is another local option if open; expect around ¥1,000–2,000 per bowl. Arrive before the usual dinner rush, as small ramen counters can close once the broth runs out.

Day 23 · Tue, May 11
Matsue, Japan

Matsue castle town

Getting there from Onomichi
JR to Fukuyama, Shinkansen to Okayama, then Limited Express Yakumo to Matsue (about 4–4.5 hr, ¥9,000–¥11,000). Book via JR-WEST; morning departure.
  1. Matsue Castle — Matsue center; climb the original wooden keep for lake views (morning, ~1.5 hours).
  2. Buke Yashiki — Shiomi Nawate; tour a preserved samurai residence (late morning, ~45 minutes).
  3. Lafcadio Hearn Former Residence — Shiomi Nawate; see where the writer lived in Matsue (late morning, ~30 minutes).
  4. Horikawa Sightseeing Boat — Matsue Castle moat; cruise canals around the historic core (early afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  5. Lake Shinji sunset — Shinjiko Onsen; watch the sun set over western Lake Shinji (evening, ~1 hour).
  6. Karakoro Art Studio — Kyomise; browse crafts and cafés in a former bank building (dinner area, ¥1,500–3,000).

Morning

After the long transfer from Onomichi, leave your luggage at your hotel or in the lockers around Matsue Station, then make your way to Matsue Castle by the Lake Line bus or a 15-minute walk through the city centre. Arrive close to opening, usually 8:30, when the original wooden keep is at its quietest. Allow about 1½ hours to climb the steep internal stairways, study the defensive displays, and look across Lake Shinji and the rooftops of Matsue from the upper level. Admission is generally around ¥700, with combination tickets available for nearby attractions.

From the castle, walk along Shiomi Nawate, a peaceful canal-side street lined with black-and-white walls and old pine trees. Visit Buke Yashiki, a preserved samurai residence, for roughly 45 minutes; the compact rooms and garden give a good sense of how a mid-ranking warrior household lived. Next door, spend around half an hour at the Lafcadio Hearn Former Residence, the modest house where the celebrated writer lived during his time in Matsue. The two sites are usually open from around 8:30 or 9:00, and a combination ticket is normally better value than paying separately.

Afternoon and Evening

Return toward the Matsue Castle moat for the Horikawa Sightseeing Boat. The cruise lasts about 1½ hours and slips beneath low bridges and around the historic centre, with the boatman pointing out old walls, waterways, and seasonal scenery. Boats generally run throughout the day, but check the departure interval at the ticket office; your ticket is often valid for hop-on, hop-off rides, so you can pause for lunch. For a relaxed meal, try Kawabata Shokudo near the castle for local set dishes, or browse the small cafés around Kyomise—allow roughly ¥1,000–2,000 for lunch.

In the late afternoon, head to Karakoro Art Studio, a short walk from Kyomise and housed in a former bank building. Browse its handmade crafts and small studios before settling in for dinner nearby; the area is particularly pleasant as the old streets begin to light up, with meals usually costing ¥1,500–3,000. Finish at the Lake Shinji waterfront in Shinjiko Onsen, ideally around 30 minutes before sunset. The promenade near Shinjiko Onsen Station offers one of the best unobstructed views west across the lake; sunset is around 18:45 in mid-May, though check the exact time that day. If your accommodation has an onsen, this is an excellent evening to soak after returning from the shore.

Day 24 · Wed, May 12
Izumo, Japan

Izumo coastal heritage

Getting there from Matsue
JR San'in Line to Izumoshi (about 45–55 min, ¥700–¥1,500). Buy locally; for Izumo Taisha continue by Ichibata Railway/bus.
  1. Izumo Taisha — Taisha; visit one of Japan’s most important Shinto shrines (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Shimane Museum of Ancient Izumo — Taisha; see artifacts illuminating Izumo’s early history (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Inasa Beach — Taisha coast; walk the sacred shoreline associated with Izumo mythology (early afternoon, ~45 minutes).
  4. Hinomisaki Shrine — Hinomisaki; see an ornate coastal shrine at the peninsula’s tip (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  5. Izumo soba near Taisha — Taisha; eat distinctive three-tiered local soba (lunch, ¥1,000–2,000).

Morning

From Matsue, take a morning JR San’in Line train to Izumoshi, then continue toward Izumo Taisha by Ichibata Railway or bus. Allow roughly 1½ hours door to door, and aim to reach the shrine around 9:00. Begin at the Izumo Taisha approach, walking beneath the immense torii and along the pine-lined path toward the main sanctuary. This is one of Japan’s most important Shinto sites, strongly associated with Ōkuninushi, the deity of relationships and good fortune. Give yourself about two hours to see the grounds properly; remember that the customary shrine-prayer sequence here is two bows, four claps, then one bow. The approach is open all day, while the inner grounds are generally accessible from around 6:00 to 19:00, with no admission charge.

For lunch, stay near the shrine rather than heading back toward Izumoshi. The streets around Kandamachi and the Taisha approach are known for Izumo’s distinctive three-tiered Izumo soba, served with toppings and sauce layered through stacked bowls. Try Okuni, a convenient local soba restaurant close to the shrine, or Arakiya, a long-established option a little farther along the approach; expect about ¥1,000–2,000, and be prepared for a short queue around noon. After eating, walk to the Shimane Museum of Ancient Izumo, directly beside the shrine. Its exhibits—especially the reconstructions and excavated artifacts connected with early Izumo—make sense of the unusually grand mythology surrounding the area. Allow around 1½ hours; it generally opens at 9:00 and costs roughly ¥600–1,000.

Afternoon and Evening

From the museum, take a local bus or taxi toward Inasa Beach, about 10 minutes away. The broad beach is associated with the mythological gathering of the kami, and the small Benten-jima rock shrine offshore gives the otherwise open coastline a memorable focal point. Spend around 45 minutes walking the sand and shoreline; sea winds can be strong, so bring a light layer. Continue by bus or taxi along the peninsula to Hinomisaki Shrine, allowing approximately 20–30 minutes depending on the connection. The shrine’s richly painted vermilion-and-white buildings feel especially vivid against the rugged coast. Set aside about an hour, then check the return bus carefully—services to the Taisha area are limited compared with city routes. If you have energy afterward, wander the small fishing-village lanes around Hinomisaki before returning to your accommodation; otherwise, head back to Taisha for a relaxed evening rather than trying to add another major sight.

Day 25 · Thu, May 13
Tottori, Japan

Tottori dunes

Getting there from Izumo
Limited Express Super Oki from Izumoshi to Tottori (about 3 hr, ¥5,000–¥6,500). Book via JR-WEST; depart early.
  1. Tottori Sand Dunes — Tottori coast; walk the immense coastal dune landscape (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. The Sand Museum — Tottori Sand Dunes; view large-scale sand sculptures with a changing theme (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Tottori Sand Dunes Conan Airport — Koyama; see playful Detective Conan details and regional aviation exhibits (early afternoon, ~45 minutes).
  4. Jinpū-kaku — Tottori Castle area; tour an elegant Western-style villa (afternoon, ~45 minutes).
  5. Tottori Castle Ruins — Kyusho Park; hike lightly through the former castle grounds (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  6. A local Tottori crab restaurant — Downtown; eat seasonal seafood and regional specialties (dinner, ¥3,000–6,000).

Morning

After the early Limited Express Super Oki from Izumoshi, leave your bags at Tottori Station or your accommodation and take the local bus to Tottori Sand Dunes—roughly 20–25 minutes. Start with the dunes themselves, allowing about two hours to walk out toward the high ridge and look across the Sea of Japan. The climb through the loose sand is more tiring than it appears, so wear shoes you do not mind filling with sand, carry water, and avoid the hottest part of the day. The main dune area is free and open all day; the best light is usually before noon.

Walk a few minutes to The Sand Museum, which normally opens around 9:00 and costs roughly ¥800–¥1,000. Its exhibitions change by theme, and the enormous sculptures are far more detailed than the name suggests—allow about 1½ hours. Have a simple lunch near the dunes, or take the bus back toward the station if you prefer a more substantial meal.

Afternoon Exploring

From Tottori Station, take a local bus toward Tottori Sand Dunes Conan Airport in Koyama, allowing around 20 minutes. The airport is small, so 45 minutes is enough to see the Detective Conan decorations, character panels, and local aviation displays without needing a flight. Entry to the public areas is generally free. Check the bus return times before wandering around, as service is less frequent than in central Tottori.

Continue by bus or taxi toward the Tottori Castle area, where Jinpū-kaku offers a pleasant change of pace after the exposed dunes. This elegant Western-style villa usually opens around 9:00 and closes near 17:00, with admission around ¥160–¥300. From there, walk into Kyusho Park for the Tottori Castle Ruins. The stone walls and hillside approach take about an hour to explore; the upper sections are uneven, but they reward you with broad views over the city. Allow extra time if the weather is warm.

Evening

For dinner, return downtown and look around the streets north and east of Tottori Station, particularly Sakaemachi and Fukurogawa. Choose a local crab restaurant such as Kani-Yoshi, or ask your hotel for the evening’s best seafood counter; seasonal Matsuba crab, white squid, grilled fish, and Tottori beef are the specialties to look for. Budget ¥3,000–6,000 per person, more if ordering a full crab course. Most restaurants open for dinner around 17:00 or 17:30, and reservations are sensible on weekends.

Day 26 · Fri, May 14
Kanazawa, Japan

Kanazawa historic districts

Getting there from Tottori
Limited Express Super Hakuto to Kyoto, then Hokuriku Shinkansen to Kanazawa (about 4.5–5 hr, ¥10,000–¥13,000). Book via JR-WEST; morning departure.
  1. Kenrokuen Garden — Kanazawa; explore one of Japan’s most celebrated landscape gardens (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Kanazawa Castle Park — adjacent to Kenrokuen; tour restored gates and palace structures (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa — Hirosaka; see internationally recognized contemporary installations (early afternoon, ~2 hours).
  4. Nagamachi Samurai District — central Kanazawa; walk preserved earthen-walled lanes (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  5. Omicho Market — central Kanazawa; eat fresh Hokuriku seafood and sushi (lunch, ¥2,000–4,000).

Morning

After the long transfer from Tottori, aim to reach Kanazawa around lunchtime rather than trying to force the garden into an early morning slot. Leave your luggage at your hotel or in the lockers beneath Kanazawa Station, then take the Kanazawa Loop Bus toward Kenrokuen-shita. Begin with Kenrokuen Garden, allowing about two hours to wander its ponds, stone lanterns, winding paths, and carefully framed views toward the mountains. Late May is a particularly pleasant time here, with fresh greenery and flowers still adding color; admission is usually around ¥320, and the garden generally opens from 7:00. From the garden’s eastern exit, cross directly into Kanazawa Castle Park for roughly 1½ hours, following the restored Hishi Yagura, Gojukken Nagaya, and Hashizume-mon Gate. The park grounds are free, while the reconstructed interiors usually require a modest separate ticket.

Lunch and Afternoon Exploring

For lunch, walk or take a short bus ride down toward Omicho Market, where the covered aisles are the best place to try Hokuriku seafood without committing to a formal kaiseki meal. Look for a busy counter-style sushi restaurant or a seafood rice bowl—expect about ¥2,000–4,000—and go slightly late, around 1:00–1:30, when the initial rush has eased. After eating, stroll uphill through the Hirosaka area to the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa. Allow about two hours, and check the official website for current opening days and timed-entry arrangements; the famous Swimming Pool installation often needs a separate reservation, while the public circulation areas and outdoor works are free. The museum is closed on Mondays, and general exhibitions commonly cost around ¥1,200–1,500.

Late Afternoon and Evening

Finish with a slower walk through the Nagamachi Samurai District, reached in about 15 minutes from the museum on foot or by a short local bus ride. Its narrow lanes, ochre earthen walls, and small waterways feel especially atmospheric toward late afternoon, when the tour groups thin out. If you want one interior visit, the Nomura Samurai House is the standout, though the district itself is free and takes about an hour to explore. From there, continue toward Korimbo and Kata-machi for dinner; Kuroyuri near the station is a dependable choice for regional dishes such as jibuni, while the side streets around Kata-machi have plenty of izakaya serving local sake and seasonal seafood. Keep the evening unhurried—Kanazawa is most enjoyable when you stop for gold-leaf sweets, browse small craft shops, and let the preserved streets reveal themselves rather than adding another major sight.

Day 27 · Sat, May 15
Shirakawa-go, Japan

Shirakawa-go mountain village

Getting there from Kanazawa
Nohi Bus highway bus from Kanazawa Station to Shirakawa-go (about 1 hr 15 min, ¥2,600–¥3,000). Reserve on Japan Bus Online or Nohi Bus; take an early bus.
  1. Shirakawa-go Ogimachi Village — Shirakawa-go; wander the UNESCO-listed gassho-zukuri settlement (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Shiroyama Viewpoint — Ogimachi; photograph the village from above (late morning, ~30 minutes).
  3. Wada House — Ogimachi; enter one of the area’s largest traditional farmhouses (noon, ~45 minutes).
  4. Gassho-zukuri Minkaen — Ogimachi; explore relocated farmhouses in an open-air museum (afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  5. A local hoba miso restaurant — Ogimachi; try grilled miso with mountain vegetables and meat (lunch, ¥1,500–3,000).

Morning

Take an early reserved bus from Kanazawa Station to Shirakawa-go, aiming to arrive before the main tour buses—ideally around 9:00. The bus terminal is beside the station, and you can leave larger luggage in the staffed storage area or your accommodation’s luggage room; Shirakawa-go is much easier on foot than with a suitcase. Begin in Ogimachi Village, wandering the lanes between the steeply pitched gassho-zukuri farmhouses, small streams, and vegetable gardens. Allow about two hours, taking your time around the quieter southern lanes rather than following only the main road.

Walk uphill for roughly 15–20 minutes to Shiroyama Viewpoint, where the classic panorama looks down over Ogimachi and its surrounding rice fields. The path is short but steep, so sturdy shoes help; in wet weather, a taxi up and a walk back down is a sensible alternative. Return toward the village for Wada House, one of the largest traditional farmhouses, usually open from around 9:00 to 17:00 with admission of roughly ¥400. Its enormous timber interior and attic levels give a good sense of how families, livestock, and silkworm production once shared these buildings.

Lunch and Afternoon

For lunch, choose a small hoba miso restaurant in Ogimachi—look for the local magnolia leaf set over a tabletop grill, with miso, mountain vegetables, mushrooms, and often Hida beef or pork. Expect around ¥1,500–3,000, and try to eat before noon because the most popular restaurants fill quickly. Afterward, cross the Shō River—about a 15-minute walk from central Ogimachi—to Gassho-zukuri Minkaen, an open-air museum where relocated farmhouses sit among wooded paths and fields. Allow about 1½ hours; it is noticeably calmer than the central village and makes a pleasant final wander. Check the last bus back to Kanazawa when you arrive, and be at the terminal 10–15 minutes early, as reserved services generally do not wait for late passengers.

Day 28 · Sun, May 16
Takayama, Japan

Takayama old town

Getting there from Shirakawa-go
Nohi Bus direct to Takayama (about 50 min, ¥2,600–¥3,000). Reserve on Japan Bus Online; morning departures fill quickly.
  1. Miyagawa Morning Market — Takayama; browse fruit, pickles, crafts, and local snacks (morning, ~1 hour).
  2. Takayama Jinya — Sanmachi; tour the preserved Edo-period government office (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Sanmachi Suji — Old Town; stroll timber merchant houses and sake breweries (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Hida Folk Village — Takayama outskirts; see traditional mountain houses in a wooded setting (afternoon, ~2 hours).
  5. Hida beef restaurant near Takayama Station — Takayama; enjoy the region’s prized wagyu (dinner, ¥3,000–7,000).

Morning

After the short Nohi Bus ride from Shirakawa-go, arrive at Takayama Bus Terminal and leave your bags at your accommodation or in the station lockers. Head first to the Miyagawa Morning Market, which runs along the river near Yasukawa-dori. Aim for around 9:00, when the stalls are lively but not yet crowded; allow about an hour to browse mountain vegetables, fruit, pickles, handmade crafts, and small snacks such as miso rice crackers. Market hours are generally roughly 7:00–12:00, though individual stalls vary. From here, it is a pleasant 10-minute walk through the old centre to Takayama Jinya, usually open from 8:45 to 17:00 and costing around ¥500. Take your time with the tatami rooms, administrative offices, kitchen, and gardens—the building gives a rare sense of how local government operated under the shogunate.

Late Morning and Afternoon

Continue on foot into Sanmachi Suji, the best-preserved part of Takayama’s Old Town, allowing around 1½ hours to wander without trying to visit every shop. Look for the dark timber merchant houses, small sake breweries marked by cedar-ball sugidama, and tidy lanes around Kamiichinomachi and Nakaichinomachi. Sake tastings are often available for a few hundred yen, but check whether the brewery is serving before entering. For lunch, keep it light—Hida beef sushi or a croquette from one of the old-town counters—because the region’s proper beef dinner is worth saving room for. In the early afternoon, take the Sarubobo Bus or a taxi from the centre to Hida Folk Village; the ride takes about 10 minutes, and a taxi is usually around ¥1,500–2,000. The open-air museum is set among trees and ponds, with steep-roofed traditional houses you can enter, and generally takes about two hours. Admission is approximately ¥700, with hours usually around 8:30–17:00. Bring comfortable shoes: the paths can be uneven, and the site feels cooler than the town.

Evening

Return to the station area for a relaxed Hida beef dinner. Good options include Hida Beef Dining Maruaki near Takayama Station for generous grilled-beef sets, or Ajikura Tengoku for a more traditional yakiniku meal; expect roughly ¥3,000–7,000 per person, and arrive early or reserve where possible. After dinner, take a quiet walk through the lanes around Hondori Shopping Street and the Nakabashi Bridge area, which are much more atmospheric once the daytime visitors have left. Keep tomorrow’s bus or train plans handy: Takayama is compact, but departures from the bus terminal can fill quickly in the morning.

Day 29 · Mon, May 17
Matsumoto, Japan

Matsumoto castle town

Getting there from Takayama
Nohi/Alpico highway bus via Kamikochi (about 2 hr 30 min, ¥3,500–¥4,000). Reserve via Nohi Bus or Japan Bus Online; depart early.
  1. Matsumoto Castle — Matsumoto center; tour Japan’s oldest surviving five-story castle keep (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Nawate-dori — Matsumoto center; browse the frog-themed riverside shopping street (late morning, ~45 minutes).
  3. Nakamachi Street — Matsumoto center; see preserved storehouses and craft shops (noon, ~1 hour).
  4. Japan Ukiyo-e Museum — western Matsumoto; view a notable private ukiyo-e collection (afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  5. Kobayashi Soba — Matsumoto center; eat handmade Shinshu soba (lunch, ¥1,000–2,500).

Morning

Take an early reserved Nohi/Alpico highway bus from Takayama to Matsumoto, allowing about 2½ hours. The route via Kamikochi is scenic, but buses can fill quickly in May, so book ahead and keep your day bag accessible. After arriving at Matsumoto Bus Terminal, walk or take a short taxi ride to Matsumoto Castle; aim for the first available entry, usually from 8:30. Allow around two hours for the grounds and the steep, narrow interior of the original keep. Admission is generally about ¥1,300, and the stairs are genuinely challenging—avoid carrying a large backpack.

From the castle, it’s roughly a 10-minute walk to Nawate-dori, a compact riverside shopping street known for its frog motifs, small antiques shops, sweets, and local crafts. Spend about 45 minutes browsing, then cross toward Nakamachi Street, where old black-and-white storehouses now hold craft galleries, cafés, and miso shops. The two streets are close together, making this an easy, pleasantly unhurried late morning.

Lunch and Afternoon

For lunch, settle in at Kobayashi Soba, a longstanding central Matsumoto soba restaurant, and try handmade Shinshu soba served cold with dipping sauce or in a warm broth. Expect roughly ¥1,000–2,500, and go before noon or after the main lunch rush because popular soba restaurants often have a queue. Afterward, take a taxi or the local bus toward the western side of the city—allow about 15–20 minutes—to the Japan Ukiyo-e Museum. Give the collection around 1½ hours; it is a quieter, more specialised stop featuring works from a major private collection, and opening days and hours can vary, so check the official schedule before setting out. Return to central Matsumoto afterward for a relaxed evening around the station, with time for a café or an early dinner rather than adding another major sight.

Day 30 · Tue, May 18
Kamikochi, Japan

Japanese Alps in Kamikochi

Getting there from Matsumoto
Alpico bus from Matsumoto Bus Terminal via Shin-Shimashima to Kamikochi (about 1 hr 45 min, ¥2,700–¥3,000). Reserve via Alpico; take an early bus.
  1. Kamikochi Bus Terminal — Kamikochi; arrive early to maximize the valley walking day (morning, ~30 minutes).
  2. Kappabashi Bridge — Azusa River; enjoy the classic Northern Alps viewpoint (morning, ~30 minutes).
  3. Dakesawa Wetland — Kamikochi; walk an easy boardwalk through alpine marshland (late morning, ~1 hour).
  4. Myojin Pond — Myojin; hike through forest to the serene pond at Hotaka Shrine (early afternoon, ~2 hours).
  5. Kamikochi Imperial Hotel — Kamikochi; take a refined mountain café break (afternoon, ~1 hour; ¥1,000–2,500).
  6. A hotel dining room in Kamikochi — Kamikochi; have an early alpine dinner before evening restrictions (dinner, ¥3,000–6,000).

Morning

Take an early Alpico bus from Matsumoto Bus Terminal and aim to reach Kamikochi Bus Terminal by about 8:30–9:00. The valley is busiest from late morning, and buses may be less frequent later in the day, so keep your return timetable or onward booking handy. At the terminal, use the public toilets, fill your water bottle, and spend a few minutes checking the trail board; the visitor centre nearby can advise on snow, mud, and bridge conditions in mid-May. From there, walk to Kappabashi Bridge, the classic viewpoint over the clear Azusa River, with the jagged Northern Alps rising behind it. Allow around 30 minutes, but linger if the peaks are visible—the morning light is usually much better than the flat afternoon haze.

Continue along the easy riverside paths toward Dakesawa Wetland, allowing about an hour for the boardwalk and surrounding forest. The marsh can still feel wintry in May, with patches of snow or wet timber, so proper shoes are more useful than trainers. Pack a small lunch from Matsumoto or buy something at the limited shops around the bus terminal; Kamikochi’s facilities are seasonal, and prices are higher than in town. After a simple break, follow the forest trail toward Myojin, a peaceful walk of roughly 45–60 minutes each way depending on stops. The approach to Myojin Pond is within Hotaka Shrine grounds and usually costs around ¥500; allow close to two hours overall to enjoy the still water, wooded shoreline, and mountain reflections without rushing.

Afternoon and Evening

Return gradually toward the central valley and stop at the Kamikochi Imperial Hotel for a refined café break. Its coffee, cakes, and apple-based sweets generally fall around ¥1,000–2,500, though opening times can vary with the season, so confirm locally before relying on it. This is a good place to rest rather than add another hike: by mid-afternoon the combination of altitude, cool air, and uneven paths catches up with people. Kamikochi’s accommodation and restaurants operate on a seasonal timetable, and evening services are limited, so have an early dinner in your hotel dining room around 17:30–18:30. Expect roughly ¥3,000–6,000 for a set meal or dinner course, and arrange any packed breakfast or next-day bus information with reception before turning in.

Day 31 · Wed, May 19
Nagano, Japan

Nagano temple city

Getting there from Kamikochi
Alpico bus to Matsumoto, JR Limited Express Shinano to Nagano (about 3–4 hr total, ¥4,500–¥6,000). Reserve buses via Alpico and train via JR; leave early.
  1. Zenko-ji — Nagano center; visit one of Japan’s most important Buddhist pilgrimage temples (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Nakamise-dori — Zenko-ji approach; browse temple-town shops and try local sweets (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Nagano Prefectural Art Museum — adjacent to Zenko-ji; view modern Japanese art and design (early afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Togakushi Shrine Chūsha — Togakushi; walk among towering cedars to a mountain shrine (afternoon, ~2 hours).
  5. Kobayashi Issa-style soba restaurant in Togakushi — Togakushi; eat buckwheat noodles from Nagano’s most famous soba area (lunch, ¥1,500–3,000).

Morning

After the early transfer from Kamikochi, leave your luggage at your hotel or in the lockers around Nagano Station, then take a local bus toward Zenko-ji. Allow around two hours for the temple precinct: pass through the imposing Sanmon Gate, explore the main hall, and try the pitch-dark underground passage beneath the altar if you are comfortable with it. The temple grounds are free, while the main hall and interior experiences are generally around ¥600–¥1,000 combined; arriving by late morning still gives you time to enjoy the atmosphere before the busiest period.

Walk downhill along Nakamise-dori, the traditional approach lined with small souvenir shops, cafés, and rice-cracker stalls. This is a good place to try oyaki dumplings, chestnut sweets, or a soft-serve made with local fruit. Rather than rushing through every shop, allow about an hour and look for seasonal produce and small craft goods. The nearby Nagano Prefectural Art Museum is next to the temple grounds, making it an easy continuation; spend roughly 1½ hours with its modern Japanese art and design collection. Check the current exhibition schedule, as opening days and admission vary, usually around ¥700–¥1,500.

Afternoon and Evening

Have lunch in Togakushi, not back in central Nagano, so plan the mountain excursion around the bus timetable and allow roughly 45–60 minutes each way. The area is famous for handmade soba, and a traditional Kobayashi Issa-style soba restaurant in Togakushi is the right setting for a calm meal of cold or warm buckwheat noodles, generally ¥1,500–3,000. After lunch, walk beneath the enormous cedar trees toward Togakushi Shrine Chūsha. Allow about two hours for the shrine and forest paths; the ground can be muddy after rain, and comfortable shoes are essential. Buses back to Nagano become less frequent later in the day, so check the return departure before beginning the walk. If you still have energy after returning, finish with a quiet drink around Higashiguchi near Nagano Station rather than adding another major sight.

Day 32 · Thu, May 20
Nikko, Japan

Nikko heritage

Getting there from Nagano
Hokuriku Shinkansen to Omiya, then JR Utsunomiya Line to Utsunomiya and Nikko Line to Nikko (about 4 hr, ¥9,000–¥11,000). Book via JR-EAST; morning departure.
  1. Nikko Toshogu — Nikko; explore the ornate mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Nikkozan Rinnoji Temple — Nikko; see major Buddhist halls within the heritage zone (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Shinkyo Bridge — Nikko; photograph the vermilion bridge at the sacred valley entrance (noon, ~30 minutes).
  4. Nikko Tamozawa Imperial Villa Memorial Park — Nikko; tour an extensive imperial retreat (afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  5. Yuba-focused restaurant near Nikko Station — Nikko; try tofu-skin dishes, a local specialty (dinner, ¥2,000–4,000).

Morning

After the roughly four-hour journey from Nagano, aim to reach Nikko Station around midday rather than trying to force an early start. Leave your luggage at your accommodation or in the station lockers, then take a short bus ride or taxi up the hill to Nikko Toshogu. Allow about two hours for this extraordinarily ornate mausoleum: the Yomeimon Gate, carved animal details, and the famous “see no evil” monkeys are best enjoyed slowly. Admission is usually around ¥1,600–¥2,000, and the stone steps can be slippery, so wear shoes with a decent grip.

A five-minute walk through the cedar-lined heritage zone brings you to Nikkozan Rinnoji Temple, where an hour is enough to see the richly decorated Sanbutsudo Hall and surrounding grounds. Continue downhill toward Shinkyo Bridge, reaching it around lunchtime. The vermilion bridge is most attractive from the riverbank and nearby road bridge; crossing it requires a separate small fee, while views from outside are free. For lunch, look for a simple soba or yuba set around Nishisando rather than eating beside the busiest shrine entrance.

Afternoon and Evening

From Shinkyo Bridge, walk about 15 minutes along the quieter western side of the river to Nikko Tamozawa Imperial Villa Memorial Park. The villa generally opens around 9:00 and closes at 16:30–17:00, with admission usually about ¥600; allow 1½ hours to wander through its creaking wooden corridors, tatami rooms, and gardens. It is a calmer counterpoint to Toshogu, and the late afternoon light through the surrounding cedars is particularly lovely. Return to Nikko Station by local bus—allow 15–25 minutes depending on traffic—and have dinner near the station, where several restaurants stay open later than those in the shrine district. Try a yuba-focused meal at Kikyo, Yuba Cuisine Takumian, or another station-area specialist, budgeting ¥2,000–4,000; reserve if possible, as Nikko’s evening dining options are limited.

Day 33 · Fri, May 21
Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo arrival

Getting there from Nikko
JR Nikko Line to Utsunomiya, then Tohoku Shinkansen to Tokyo (about 2 hr, ¥5,000–¥6,000). Book via JR-EAST; depart morning.
  1. Shinkansen from Utsunomiya to Tokyo — Utsunomiya–Tokyo; transfer into Tokyo and leave luggage at your hotel (morning, ~2 hours including connections).
  2. Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building — Shinjuku; take in free panoramic city views (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  3. Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden — Shinjuku; relax amid expansive Japanese, French, and English gardens (late afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Omoide Yokocho — Shinjuku; explore tiny yakitori alleys for dinner (evening, ~1 hour; ¥2,000–4,000).
  5. Uogashi Nihon-Ichi Shinjuku — Shinjuku; add a casual standing-sushi stop if desired (dinner, ¥1,500–3,000).

Morning

Take an early JR Nikko Line from Nikko to Utsunomiya, allowing a little over two hours in total once you include the connection to the Tohoku Shinkansen for Tokyo. Aim to leave around 7:00–8:00 so you reach the city late morning. At Tokyo Station, use the underground lockers or continue directly to your hotel—most hotels will hold bags before check-in. From there, the JR Yamanote Line or Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line brings you toward Shinjuku; expect the station transfer itself to take longer than the train ride, so allow 30–40 minutes.

Afternoon

After lunch around Shinjuku Station, walk west through the office district to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. The free observation decks generally open from around 9:30 until 22:00, with last entry roughly 30 minutes before closing; allow an hour for the elevators, views, and a quick look around. On a clear day you may see Mount Fuji beyond the dense western suburbs, while the nearer panorama gives a superb sense of Tokyo’s scale. A 15-minute walk east along Shinjuku Chuo Park brings you to Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. Entry is usually about ¥500, and the garden typically closes around 18:00 in this season, with last entry earlier—check the date-specific hours before going. Spend about 1½ hours drifting between the Japanese landscape garden, French formal beds, and broad lawns; this is an excellent place to slow down after the travel morning.

Evening

For dinner, walk north from the garden toward Omoide Yokocho, the atmospheric network of narrow alleys beside the west side of Shinjuku Station. The tiny yakitori counters are best approached with a little patience: seating is limited, menus may be Japanese-only, and ¥2,000–4,000 per person covers a modest meal with a drink. If you want something lighter or prefer sushi, finish at Uogashi Nihon-Ichi Shinjuku, a casual standing-sushi stop where a few plates usually cost around ¥1,500–3,000. Keep your bags light tonight—Shinjuku Station is confusing even without luggage, and the neighborhood is much more enjoyable on foot once you have checked in.

Day 34 · Sat, May 22
Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo traditional districts

  1. Senso-ji — Asakusa; visit Tokyo’s oldest and most atmospheric major temple (morning, ~1.5 hours).
  2. Nakamise Shopping Street — Asakusa; browse traditional souvenirs and snacks (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Kappabashi Dougu Street — Asakusa; shop for Japanese kitchenware and food models (noon, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Ueno Park — Ueno; stroll museums, ponds, and broad public gardens (afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  5. Ameyoko Shopping Street — Ueno; browse market stalls and inexpensive food counters (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  6. Sometaro — Asakusa; cook traditional okonomiyaki and monjayaki at the table (dinner, ¥2,000–4,000).

Morning

Start at Senso-ji around 8:00, before the approach fills with tour groups. Enter through Kaminarimon Gate, pause for the enormous lantern, and continue along the temple’s incense-filled courtyard to the main hall. The temple grounds are free and open around the clock, though the main hall generally opens from 6:00 (6:30 from October to March); allow about 1½ hours. For a quieter look at the complex, step briefly into the side lanes around Asakusa Shrine rather than lingering only on the central approach.

By late morning, browse Nakamise Shopping Street, where the stalls sell ningyo-yaki cakes, rice crackers, folding fans, tenugui cloths, and small souvenirs. It is busiest between 10:30 and noon, so buy snacks as you go rather than waiting for lunch. Walk west toward Kappabashi Dougu Street—roughly 15 minutes from Senso-ji—where specialist shops sell knives, lacquerware, ceramics, restaurant signs, and remarkably convincing plastic food models. Most shops open around 9:00–10:00 and close between 17:00 and 18:00; allow 1½ hours, and remember that some knife shops may ask for passport details for engraving or tax-free purchases.

Afternoon and Evening

Continue north-west to Ueno Park, about 20 minutes on foot from Kappabashi, or take the Ginza Line from Tawaramachi to Ueno if your shopping bags are getting awkward. Spend an easy hour and a half among the ponds, tree-lined paths, and museums rather than trying to cover every gallery; the Tokyo National Museum is nearby if you want one indoor stop, with general admission usually around ¥1,000 and typical opening hours from 9:30 to 17:00. In the late afternoon, wander through Ameyoko Shopping Street, the lively market corridor beneath the railway between Ueno and Okachimachi. It is a good place for inexpensive grilled seafood, fruit, sweets, and casual standing counters, though prices and quality vary between stalls.

Return to Asakusa for dinner at Sometaro, a much-loved old-style okonomiyaki and monjayaki restaurant in a quiet lane away from the temple crowds. Tables have their own hotplates, and staff can help if you are unsure about mixing or turning the batter. Expect roughly ¥2,000–4,000 per person; arrive before the evening rush or be prepared to wait, as the small room is popular. Asakusa Station is served by the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line, Toei Asakusa Line, and Tobu Skytree Line, making the return to most central Tokyo neighborhoods straightforward.

Day 35 · Sun, May 23
Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo modern neighborhoods

  1. Meiji Jingu — Harajuku; walk through a tranquil forested shrine precinct (morning, ~1.5 hours).
  2. Takeshita Street — Harajuku; experience Tokyo’s youthful fashion and snack culture (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Omotesando — Harajuku–Aoyama; browse architecture, boutiques, and flagship stores (noon, ~1 hour).
  4. Nezu Museum — Aoyama; pair Japanese art with a beautiful modern garden (afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  5. Shibuya Scramble Crossing — Shibuya; watch Tokyo’s signature pedestrian spectacle (evening, ~45 minutes).
  6. Uobei Shibuya Dogenzaka — Shibuya; enjoy inexpensive conveyor-belt sushi (dinner, ¥1,500–3,000).

Morning

Begin at Meiji Jingu around 8:00, entering from the Harajuku side and following the broad gravel path beneath the towering forest. It is a remarkably quiet start to a busy Tokyo day—especially before the sake-barrel approach and inner shrine precinct fill with visitors. Allow about 1½ hours, including time to watch morning prayers and make a small offering; the grounds are free, while the shrine’s opening and closing times vary seasonally. From the main precinct, walk toward Harajuku Station and continue to Takeshita Street for about an hour. By late morning it will be lively and crowded, so treat it as a quick wander rather than a leisurely stroll: try a crepe from Marion Crepes or Santa Monica Crepes, and browse the inexpensive fashion and character shops.

Late Morning and Lunch

Walk south from Takeshita Street into Omotesando, where the atmosphere changes from youthful and noisy to polished and architectural. Spend an hour looking at the flagship buildings along Omotesando-dori, including Tokyu Plaza Omotesando “Omohara” and the distinctive Prada Aoyama building. For lunch, avoid the busiest main-road restaurants and duck into Maisen Aoyama Honten, a former bathhouse known for tonkatsu, or choose a lighter meal at Crayonhouse Hiroba. Both are a short walk from the boulevard; expect roughly ¥1,500–3,000 per person.

Afternoon and Evening

Continue on foot into Aoyama for Nezu Museum, usually open 10:00–17:00 and closed Mondays; admission is generally around ¥1,300–1,500, with the final entry roughly 30 minutes before closing. The collection of Japanese and East Asian art is worth seeing, but the real pleasure is the garden: mossy paths, stone lanterns, ponds, and a welcome sense of calm after Harajuku’s crowds. Allow about 1½ hours, and note that the garden may close in poor weather. Later, take the Tokyo Metro from 表参道駅 Omote-sando Station to 渋谷駅 Shibuya Station—two minutes on the Ginza or Hanzomon lines—then head to Shibuya Scramble Crossing. Watch the first waves from the Shibuya Sky area or the second-floor Starbucks Shibuya Tsutaya viewpoint if access is available; allow 45 minutes as the lights come on and the crossing becomes most theatrical. Finish at Uobei Shibuya Dogenzaka, where tablet-ordered sushi arrives on small conveyor lanes. It is casual, fast, and typically ¥1,500–3,000 per person, though queues are common at dinner, so put your name down before exploring the crossing.

Day 36 · Mon, May 24
Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo bay

  1. teamLab Borderless — Azabudai Hills; immerse yourself in large-scale digital installations (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Tokyo Tower — Akabane-bashi; see the city from its classic red landmark (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Hamarikyu Gardens — Shiodome; walk an Edo garden beside Tokyo Bay (afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Miraikan — Odaiba; explore Japan’s National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation (late afternoon, ~2 hours).
  5. Odaiba Seaside Park — Odaiba; enjoy sunset views toward Rainbow Bridge (evening, ~1 hour).
  6. Tsukiji Outer Market — Tsukiji; eat fresh seafood and tamagoyaki (lunch, ¥2,000–4,000).

Morning

Start at teamLab Borderless in Azabudai Hills, booking the earliest available entry—usually from around 9:00. Allow about two hours, and wear comfortable shoes; the installations involve dark rooms, reflective floors, stairs, and plenty of walking. Timed tickets commonly cost around ¥4,000–5,000, and the venue is easiest to reach from Kamiyacho Station. Afterward, walk about 15 minutes toward Tokyo Tower, passing through the quieter streets around Azabudai and Akabane-bashi. Allow roughly 1½ hours for the Main Deck; online tickets are generally around ¥1,500–2,000, with the higher Top Deck option costing more. Visibility is best before the afternoon haze, so this is a good time for the classic city panorama.

Lunch and Afternoon

Take the subway or walk toward Tsukiji Outer Market—about 20 minutes by taxi, or roughly 30 minutes by train and foot—for lunch. The market is busiest from late morning to early afternoon, with most individual stalls opening around 8:00 and beginning to close by 14:00. Browse Tsukiji’s narrow lanes for seafood bowls, grilled scallops, and freshly made tamagoyaki; budget ¥2,000–4,000, and carry cash as some small vendors remain cash-only. Keep the visit focused on eating rather than trying to cover every stall, then continue to Hamarikyu Gardens via a short taxi ride or a 15–20-minute walk. The garden usually opens at 9:00, costs about ¥300, and takes around 1½ hours. Follow the ponds and pine-lined paths to the teahouse, where the contrast between Edo landscaping and the glass towers of Shiodome is especially striking.

Late Afternoon and Evening

From Shiodome, take the Yurikamome to Tokyo Teleport or Fune no Kagakukan, then walk to Miraikan, allowing around two hours. The museum generally opens at 10:00 and closes at 17:00, with last entry about 30 minutes earlier; general admission is usually around ¥630, though special exhibitions cost extra. Check the closing day and exhibition schedule before leaving Hamarikyu, as late-afternoon timing can be tight. Finish at Odaiba Seaside Park, a short walk away, for about an hour around sunset. The shoreline gives you one of Tokyo’s most relaxed views of Rainbow Bridge and the mainland skyline. There are convenience stores and casual restaurants around Decks Tokyo Beach and DiverCity Tokyo Plaza if you want a simple dinner before returning by the Yurikamome or Rinkai Line.

Day 37 · Tue, May 25
Kamakura, Japan

Kamakura temples

Getting there from Tokyo
JR Yokosuka Line from Tokyo Station to Kamakura (about 55–60 min, ¥950). Use Suica/IC card; depart early.
  1. Hasedera — Hase; explore hillside gardens, caves, and ocean-facing terraces (morning, ~1.5 hours).
  2. Kotoku-in — Hase; see Kamakura’s monumental outdoor Great Buddha (late morning, ~45 minutes).
  3. Yuigahama Beach — Kamakura coast; take a relaxed shoreline walk (noon, ~45 minutes).
  4. Komachi-dori — Kamakura station area; browse sweets, crafts, and snack stalls (afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  5. Tsurugaoka Hachimangu — Kamakura center; visit the city’s grand central shrine (late afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  6. Matsubara-an — Kamakura; eat refined soba in a traditional setting (dinner, ¥2,000–4,000).

Morning

Take the JR Yokosuka Line from Tokyo Station to Kamakura Station early, ideally arriving around 8:30. From there, use the Enoden Line for the short ride to Hase Station, then walk about five minutes to Hasedera. The temple’s hillside gardens, small caves, and ocean-facing terraces are best before the coastal crowds arrive; allow about 1½ hours. Admission is usually around ¥400, and the upper garden is a particularly pleasant place to pause if the weather is clear.

Walk roughly 10 minutes through quiet Hase streets to Kotoku-in, home of Kamakura’s monumental outdoor Great Buddha. Allow around 45 minutes, including the small interior visit when open; admission is generally about ¥300. From here, continue toward Yuigahama Beach, where a relaxed 45-minute shoreline walk gives you a change of pace. The beach is breezy even on warm days, so keep a light layer handy.

Afternoon

Walk or take the Enoden back toward Kamakura Station, then spend about 1½ hours browsing Komachi-dori. It is touristy, but still fun if you graze rather than commit to a full meal: look for local sweets, small craft shops, and savoury snacks such as shirasu croquettes. For a quieter parallel route, dip into the lanes east of the main street rather than staying on the busiest central stretch.

Continue on foot to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, about 10–15 minutes from the station. The approach through the broad central avenue and shrine grounds makes a good late-afternoon finish, when the light softens and many visitors have begun leaving. Allow about 1½ hours to explore the main precinct, ponds, and wooded paths; the grounds are free, though some inner areas may charge a small fee.

Evening

For dinner, walk or take a short taxi to Matsubara-an, a traditional-style soba restaurant known for refined noodles and seasonal dishes. Expect roughly ¥2,000–4,000 per person, and arrive a little before the main dinner rush because seating can be limited. It is a fittingly calm end to a day that moves from temple hills to the beach and back through Kamakura’s historic centre.

Day 38 · Wed, May 26
Hakone, Japan

Hakone hot spring town

Getting there from Kamakura
JR to Odawara, then Hakone Tozan train to Hakone-Yumoto (about 1.5–2 hr, ¥2,000–¥3,000). Consider the Hakone Freepass via Odakyu; morning departure.
  1. Hakone Open-Air Museum — Ninotaira; see sculpture among mountain landscapes (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Owakudani — Sengokuhara; view volcanic terrain and try the famous black eggs (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Hakone Ropeway — Owakudani–Togendai; ride over volcanic valleys and Lake Ashi (noon, ~1 hour).
  4. Lake Ashi sightseeing cruise — Togendai; cruise across the caldera lake (early afternoon, ~1 hour).
  5. Hakone Shrine — Moto-Hakone; visit the forested shrine and lakeside torii (afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  6. A ryokan kaiseki dinner in Hakone — Hakone; enjoy a restorative hot-spring-town meal (dinner, ¥5,000–10,000 if not included).

Morning

After the morning transfer from Kamakura, leave your bags at your ryokan or in the lockers around Hakone-Yumoto, then continue by the Hakone Tozan Railway to Chokoku-no-Mori Station. A short walk brings you to the Hakone Open-Air Museum, best visited before the larger sightseeing groups arrive. Allow about two hours for the sculptures, indoor galleries, and mountain views; the museum generally opens around 9:00 and costs roughly ¥2,000. From Chokoku-no-Mori, take the train or a short bus connection toward Sengokuhara, then use the Hakone Ropeway to reach Owakudani. Spend about an hour walking the volcanic lookout paths and trying the sulphur-cooked black eggs—bring a light layer, as the exposed valley can be surprisingly cool and windy.

Afternoon

Continue on the Hakone Ropeway from Owakudani to Togendai, a spectacular hour-long ride over steaming valleys and rugged volcanic slopes. At Togendai Port, board the Lake Ashi sightseeing cruise toward Moto-Hakone; sit outside if the weather is clear, though visibility around Mount Fuji is never guaranteed. After disembarking, walk along the lakeshore to Hakone Shrine, following the wooded approach to the main buildings and the famous red torii standing in the water. Allow around 1½ hours, and expect a short queue for photographs at the lakeside torii. If you are using a Hakone Freepass, it covers much of this circuit, but check whether the sightseeing cruise and ropeway are operating—wind or volcanic conditions can cause temporary closures. Take a local bus or taxi back to your ryokan afterward; the roads around Moto-Hakone become slow in the late afternoon.

Evening

Keep the evening deliberately quiet: settle into your Hakone ryokan, enjoy the onsen before dinner, and let the day’s mountain air do the work. A ryokan kaiseki dinner is often served in several small courses, commonly between 18:00 and 19:30, and typically costs ¥5,000–10,000 when not included in the room rate. If your accommodation does not provide dinner, reserve ahead at a restaurant near Hakone-Yumoto rather than relying on walk-ins—many smaller establishments close early or accept only advance bookings.

Day 39 · Thu, May 27
Fujikawaguchiko, Japan

Mount Fuji lakes

Getting there from Hakone
Highway bus from Gotemba Station to Kawaguchiko, or bus from Hakone-Togendai via Gotemba (about 2–3 hr, ¥2,000–¥3,500). Reserve on Highwaybus.com; depart early.
  1. Arakurayama Sengen Park — Fujiyoshida; capture the classic pagoda-and-Fuji panorama (morning, ~1.5 hours).
  2. Kitaguchi Hongu Fuji Sengen Shrine — Fujiyoshida; walk through a monumental cedar-lined approach (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Oishi Park — Lake Kawaguchi north shore; view Fuji across seasonal flower beds (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  4. Kawaguchiko Music Forest Museum — north shore; explore gardens and mechanical music displays (afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  5. Hōtō Fudō Kawaguchiko — Kawaguchiko; eat hearty local hoto noodles (lunch, ¥1,000–2,000).

Morning

Leave Hakone early and aim to reach Arakurayama Sengen Park in Fujiyoshida by around 8:30–9:00. The practical route is the reserved highway bus via Gotemba, followed by local transport or a taxi toward Shimoyoshida Station; allow extra time for traffic and keep your Fuji-area bus connections handy. From the station, it is a short walk to the park, then a steep climb of roughly 400 steps to the Chureito Pagoda viewpoint. Allow about 1½ hours, including time for the classic pagoda-and-Mount Fuji photograph. Visibility is usually best early, while clouds commonly gather around the mountain later in the day.

Walk or take a short taxi ride onward to Kitaguchi Hongu Fuji Sengen Shrine, where the atmosphere changes completely. Its broad approach is shaded by enormous cedar trees, and the dark wooden shrine buildings feel wonderfully removed from the busier Fuji viewpoints. Allow about an hour; the grounds are generally free and open throughout the day. For lunch, stop at Hōtō Fudō Kawaguchiko, a local institution near Kawaguchiko Station, for a steaming bowl of flat, chewy hoto noodles in miso broth with pumpkin and vegetables—typically ¥1,000–2,000. Go slightly before noon if possible, as queues build quickly.

Afternoon

Continue to Oishi Park on the northern shore of Lake Kawaguchi, using the sightseeing bus or a taxi; the ride from central Kawaguchiko is usually 25–35 minutes, depending on traffic. Spend about an hour wandering beside the lake and through the seasonal flower beds, with the broadest Fuji views on clear days. The small cafes around the park are useful for coffee or a soft-serve break, but the main pleasure is simply taking the lakeside path slowly.

Finish at the Kawaguchiko Music Forest Museum, a short bus ride or walk along the north shore. Allow around 1½ hours for the European-style gardens, ornate interiors, and collection of mechanical music boxes and automatic instruments. The museum normally operates roughly 10:00–17:30, with last entry earlier, and admission is commonly around ¥1,800–2,000; confirm the 2027 schedule before visiting. From here, return to your accommodation by the Red Line sightseeing bus or taxi, allowing extra time if the road along the lake is congested.

Day 40 · Fri, May 28
Shimoda, Japan

Izu Peninsula coast

Getting there from Fujikawaguchiko
Drive via Route 138/135 (about 3.5–4.5 hr, ¥8,000–¥12,000 including rental, fuel, tolls). Public transport requires several transfers; reserve Toyota Rent a Car and leave early.
  1. Shimoda Ropeway — Shimoda; rise to panoramic views over the harbor and peninsula (morning, ~1 hour).
  2. Shimoda Park — Shimoda; walk coastal paths through hydrangeas and headlands (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Perry Road — Shimoda; stroll the historic canal lane linked to Commodore Perry (noon, ~45 minutes).
  4. Ryosenji Temple — Shimoda; visit the temple associated with the Treaty of Shimoda (early afternoon, ~45 minutes).
  5. Shirahama Shrine — Shirahama coast; see a red torii beside a dramatic rocky shoreline (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  6. A local kinmedai seafood restaurant — Shimoda; try the peninsula’s prized red snapper (dinner, ¥3,000–6,000).

Morning

Start at the Shimoda Ropeway, ideally around 9:00, once you have arrived and left the car at your accommodation or a town-centre car park. The short ride from Shirahama up Mount Nesugatayama gives you a fine first look over Shimoda Harbor, the Izu coastline, and the layered green hills inland; allow about an hour including the observation areas. A return ticket is usually around ¥1,000–1,500, and visibility is best before the coastal haze builds. From the ropeway base, walk roughly 10–15 minutes toward Shimoda Park, following the waterfront and then the paths into the wooded headland. Allow 1½ hours for the coastal trails and lookout points; in late May the park’s greenery is lush, although the famous hydrangeas are generally at their best a little later in June.

Walk downhill toward Perry Road, a quiet, stone-paved canal lane lined with dark wooden houses, small galleries, and cafés. It is only about 45 minutes at an easy pace, but leave time to browse rather than treating it as a quick photo stop. For lunch, look for a small seafood set meal around the nearby Shimoda streets—local restaurants often serve kinmedai simmered in soy and ginger, though the best-known dinner restaurants may open later in the day. Continue a few minutes to Ryosenji Temple, whose grounds and museum relate directly to the negotiations that led to the Treaty of Shimoda. Allow around 45 minutes; admission is generally about ¥500–700, and the temple’s quiet garden is a welcome pause after the busier harbor area.

Late Afternoon and Evening

Drive or take a local bus east along the coast to Shirahama Shrine, allowing roughly 15–20 minutes from central Shimoda, depending on traffic. The bright red torii standing beside the rocky shore is best approached on foot from the road, and the surrounding coastline is more atmospheric than extensive—an hour is enough to see the shrine, shoreline, and nearby beach without rushing. Be cautious on wet rocks and keep clear of the waterline, particularly if the sea is rough. Return to town for dinner at a local kinmedai seafood restaurant; expect about ¥3,000–6,000 per person for a proper meal featuring the Izu Peninsula’s prized red snapper. Reserve if possible, as smaller restaurants can fill early and some close once their evening catch is sold.

Day 41 · Sat, May 29
Nagoya, Japan

Nagoya castle city

Getting there from Shimoda
Izukyu Line to Atami, Tokaido Shinkansen to Nagoya (about 3–3.5 hr, ¥10,000–¥12,000). Book via SmartEX/JR; morning departure.
  1. Nagoya Castle — Nagoya center; see reconstructed palace interiors and the famous golden shachi (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Hommaru Palace — Nagoya Castle; admire lavish painted screens and timber craftsmanship (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Toyota Commemorative Museum of Industry and Technology — Noritake; explore Japan’s industrial transformation (afternoon, ~2 hours).
  4. Noritake Garden — Noritake; relax among ceramics heritage and landscaped grounds (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  5. 矢場とん 矢場町本店 — Sakae; eat Nagoya-style miso katsu (dinner, ¥1,500–3,000).

Morning

After arriving from Shimoda, leave your bags at your hotel or in the lockers beneath Nagoya Station, then take the Meijo Subway Line to Shiyakusho Station (now officially Nagoyajo Seimon Mae on some signage). Go straight to Nagoya Castle, aiming for opening time—normally 9:00. Allow about two hours for the broad grounds, stone walls, reconstructed keep exterior, and the ornate Hommaru Palace. The palace is the real highlight: move slowly through the cedar corridors to appreciate the gold-leaf rooms, painted screens, and finely joined timberwork. Admission is usually around ¥500, though hours and access can change with restoration work; the main keep itself may remain closed, so treat the palace and gardens as the core visit.

Afternoon

From the castle, take the Meijo Line or a short taxi ride toward Noritake, then spend roughly two hours at the Toyota Commemorative Museum of Industry and Technology. The former red-brick textile mill is one of Nagoya’s best museums, with lively demonstrations of spinning, weaving, engines, and automobile production rather than just static displays. Afterward, walk a few minutes to Noritake Garden, a calmer landscaped complex built around the city’s ceramics heritage. Its green paths and old factory atmosphere make a good decompression stop; the grounds are generally open from around 9:00 to 17:00, while individual museum and gallery areas may close earlier or have separate admission.

Evening

Head into Sakae by subway, leaving yourself time for a relaxed wander around Hisaya-odori Park and the back streets near Yabacho before dinner. Eat at 矢場とん 矢場町本店, the classic home of Nagoya-style miso katsu: order the thick pork cutlet with sweet-red soybean miso sauce, and expect roughly ¥1,500–3,000. There is often a queue at peak dinner time, so arriving around 17:30–18:00 is the easiest option. Afterwards, stroll north through Sakae toward MIRAI TOWER or grab a final coffee around Oasis 21—both are convenient, low-effort ways to see Nagoya lit up without adding another formal attraction.

Day 42 · Sun, May 30
Magome, Japan

Kiso Valley

Getting there from Nagoya
JR Chuo Line Rapid/Limited Express to Nakatsugawa, then Kitaena Bus to Magome (about 2 hr 15 min–2.5 hr, ¥2,500–¥3,500). Buy train tickets via JR Central and bus locally; depart early.
  1. JR Chūō Line to Nakatsugawa and bus to Magome — Nagoya–Magome; transfer into the Kiso Valley and store luggage before walking (morning, ~2.5 hours; depart early).
  2. Magome-juku — Magome; stroll the beautifully preserved post-town street (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Magome-juku Honjin Museum — Magome; learn how travelers used the former post station (noon, ~45 minutes).
  4. Magome–Tsumago Trail — Kiso Valley; hike through forests, waterfalls, and old stone paths (afternoon, ~3 hours).
  5. Tsumago-juku — Tsumago; finish among another exceptionally preserved post town (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  6. Gohei-mochi at a Kiso Valley teahouse — Tsumago; try grilled rice cakes with sweet miso (lunch, ¥500–1,500).

Morning

Leave Nagoya early enough to reach Magome-juku around 10:00–10:30. Take the JR Chūō Line to Nakatsugawa, then the Kitaena Bus toward Magome; the whole transfer takes roughly 2½ hours. The bus stops near the entrance to the post town, where you can use the luggage storage service or ask your accommodation to hold larger bags. Bring water and wear proper walking shoes—the trail is easy to moderate, but its old stone paving becomes slippery after rain.

Start with a relaxed stroll along Magome-juku, following the steep, beautifully restored main street past dark wooden inns, small craft shops, and waterwheels. Avoid rushing through the souvenir shops; the best atmosphere is in the side lanes and at the upper end of the town, where the houses thin out into wooded hills. Around noon, visit the Magome-juku Honjin Museum, housed in the former honjin, or official lodging used by feudal lords and other high-ranking travelers. Allow about 45 minutes; admission is usually around ¥300–500, and opening hours are commonly 9:00–17:00, though seasonal schedules can vary.

Afternoon

Before setting off, have a light lunch at Kakurin-an or another traditional eatery along Magome’s main street—look for soba, seasonal mountain vegetables, and the local specialty gohei-mochi, a skewered rice cake coated in sweet walnut or miso sauce. Then begin the Magome–Tsumago Trail, a roughly 9-kilometre walk taking about three hours at an unhurried pace. The route passes through cedar forest, old stone sections, small shrines, and several waterfalls; the staffed Ochiai Stone Pavement and the series of trail bells are particularly atmospheric. There are stretches without shops, so buy drinks and snacks before leaving Magome. A taxi or luggage-transfer arrangement is worth considering if you are carrying more than a daypack.

Finish at Tsumago-juku in the late afternoon, when many day visitors have begun to leave. Wander its quiet central street and look into the preserved Waki-Honjin Okuya, usually open until around 17:00 for roughly ¥600. For a final snack, stop at Sasano-ya or a nearby Kiso Valley teahouse for another serving of gohei-mochi—best eaten hot from the grill, with its smoky sweetness balancing the long walk. Check the final bus or taxi options back toward Nagiso or Nakatsugawa before starting the trail, as evening services are limited.

Day 43 · Mon, May 31
Gifu, Japan

Gifu river city

Getting there from Magome
Bus from Magome to Nakatsugawa, JR Chuo Line to Nagoya, then JR Tokaido Line to Gifu (about 2.5–3 hr, ¥2,500–¥3,500). Buy locally; allow time if arriving from Tsumago.
  1. Gifu Castle — Mount Kinka; take the ropeway to a hilltop castle with sweeping views (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Mount Kinka Ropeway — Gifu Park; enjoy the wooded ascent and city panorama (morning, ~45 minutes).
  3. Gifu Park — Gifu center; walk historic gardens and the former Oda Nobunaga area (late morning, ~1 hour).
  4. Nagaragawa Ukai Museum — Nagaragawa; learn about Gifu’s traditional cormorant fishing (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  5. Nagaragawa riverside — Nagaragawa; stroll beneath the mountain skyline (late afternoon, ~45 minutes).
  6. A Hida beef restaurant in Gifu — Downtown; enjoy regional wagyu before moving on (dinner, ¥3,000–6,000).

Morning

After arriving in Gifu, leave your luggage at your hotel or in the lockers around JR Gifu Station, then take a Gifu Bus toward Gifu Park—allow roughly 15–20 minutes, depending on traffic. Start with the Mount Kinka Ropeway, located at the edge of the park, and ride up through the forest to Gifu Castle. Allow about two hours for the round trip, the castle interiors, and the observation level; the ropeway and castle generally open around 9:00, with combined admission usually around ¥1,300–1,500. The views over the Nagara River and the Nōbi Plain are clearest earlier in the day. Note that the castle involves steps and uneven paths, so comfortable shoes are worthwhile.

Back at the base, spend an hour wandering through Gifu Park, following the quieter paths around the ponds and the former Oda Nobunaga residence area. It is a pleasant place to slow down after the climb, with benches and seasonal plantings rather than a tightly packed sightseeing circuit. If you want a quick break, Kinkazan Terrace near the ropeway station is convenient, though the better lunch choice is downtown: take the bus back toward Nagarabashi or Gifu Station and look for a simple set meal featuring local miso, river fish, or Hida beef.

Afternoon and Evening

Continue to the Nagaragawa Ukai Museum, near the river north of central Gifu; from Gifu Park, a short taxi ride is easiest, while the city bus takes roughly 10–15 minutes. Allow about an hour for the exhibits and explanations of cormorant fishing, including the distinctive boats, tools, and relationship between the fishermen and birds. Opening days and hours vary by season, but it is commonly open from around 9:00 to 17:00 and costs roughly ¥500–600; check the calendar before setting out, as it is sometimes closed on Tuesdays. Afterwards, take a gentle 45-minute walk along the Nagaragawa riverside, particularly around Nagarabashi and the riverbank paths beneath Mount Kinka. The late-afternoon light is lovely here, and the area feels much calmer than central Gifu.

For dinner, return downtown and choose a specialist such as Hida Beef Maruaki Gifu near Tamamizucho, or Gifu Yakiniku Horumon Usagi for a more casual grill experience. Expect around ¥3,000–6,000 per person, more if ordering premium cuts; reservations are sensible on a Friday or Saturday, though this Monday should be easier. Finish with a short walk around Tamaicho and the station-side arcades, where small izakaya and dessert shops stay lively without feeling as overwhelming as Nagoya.

Day 44 · Tue, Jun 1
Kyoto, Japan

Kyoto eastern districts

Getting there from Gifu
JR Tokaido Shinkansen from Gifu-Hashima to Kyoto, or local train via Maibara (about 45 min–1 hr 30 min, ¥3,000–¥5,000). Book via SmartEX; morning departure.
  1. Kiyomizu-dera — Higashiyama; visit Kyoto’s iconic wooden stage and hillside temple complex (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka — Higashiyama; walk atmospheric historic lanes and shops (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Kennin-ji — Gion; appreciate Zen gardens and bold painted screens (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  4. Yasaka Shrine — Gion; visit Kyoto’s lively central shrine (late afternoon, ~45 minutes).
  5. Gion Shirakawa — Gion; wander along willow-lined canals at dusk (evening, ~1 hour).
  6. Gion Tanto — Gion; eat Kyoto-style okonomiyaki in a compact local restaurant (dinner, ¥2,000–4,000).

Morning

After arriving in Kyoto, leave your luggage at your hotel or at Kyoto Station and head to Kiyomizu-dera. Take a Kyoto City Bus toward Gojozaka or a taxi if traffic is light, then walk uphill through the temple approach. Arrive around opening time—typically 6:00, with the main hall and other paid areas opening later depending on the season—and allow about two hours for the wooden stage, hillside pagodas, and quieter paths behind the main precinct. Admission is usually around ¥400–¥500. The climb is steady, so comfortable shoes are worthwhile; the approach is much more pleasant before the tour groups and souvenir crowds arrive.

Walk downhill through Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, two of Higashiyama’s prettiest preserved lanes. Allow about 1½ hours to browse ceramics, sweets, incense, and small craft shops, but keep the pace unhurried—this area rewards slipping down the side lanes rather than stopping at every souvenir store. For lunch, look for a small set-meal restaurant around Yasaka-dori or Nene-no-Michi, where a simple Kyoto-style meal generally costs ¥1,200–¥2,000.

Afternoon and Evening

Continue north into Gion and visit Kennin-ji, Kyoto’s oldest Zen temple, usually open from around 10:00 to 17:00 with admission of roughly ¥600–¥800. Give yourself an hour to sit with the dry gardens and see the dramatic painted screens, including the famous twin dragons. From there, it is about a 10-minute walk to Yasaka Shrine. The shrine grounds are free and open at all hours, and late afternoon is a good time to see locals making offerings beneath the lanterns without needing to rush.

As the light softens, wander through Gion Shirakawa, following the willow-lined canal and traditional machiya houses. Keep voices low and avoid photographing private doorways; this is still a working neighborhood, not just a backdrop. Finish at Gion Tanto, a compact local restaurant known for Kyoto-style okonomiyaki. Expect around ¥2,000–¥4,000 per person, and arrive early or be prepared to wait, as the small counter-style space fills quickly.

Day 45 · Wed, Jun 2
Kyoto, Japan

Kyoto northern temples

  1. Kinkaku-ji — northwest Kyoto; see the Golden Pavilion reflected in its pond (morning, ~1 hour).
  2. Ryoan-ji — northwest Kyoto; contemplate Japan’s most famous dry rock garden (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Ninna-ji — Omuro; explore imperial-temple architecture and gardens (noon, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Daitoku-ji — Kita; walk among a major Zen temple complex and selected subtemples (afternoon, ~2 hours).
  5. Izusen Shojin Ryori — Daitokuji; enjoy refined Buddhist vegetarian cuisine (lunch, ¥3,000–6,000).

Morning

Begin in northwest Kyoto with Kinkaku-ji, arriving close to its 9:00 opening. The Golden Pavilion is at its best before the tour buses, when the reflection across the pond is still relatively undisturbed; allow about an hour for the one-way garden route. Admission is usually around ¥500, and there is no need to linger in the busy souvenir area. From the entrance, take a Kyoto City Bus toward Ryoan-ji—the ride is roughly 10 minutes, though walking via Omuro is also pleasant if the weather is cool.

Continue to Ryoan-ji for the famous dry garden and its mossy grounds, allowing about an hour. Sit quietly rather than simply taking a photograph, and walk around the pond after viewing the rocks. It is generally open from around 8:00, with admission roughly ¥500. Then walk or take a short bus ride to Ninna-ji, arriving around noon; this imperial-temple complex has spacious gravel courtyards, elegant gates, and a much calmer feel than Kinkaku-ji. Allow 1½ hours, with admission commonly around ¥500–800 when the inner gardens or special areas are open.

Lunch and Afternoon

Have lunch at Izusen Shojin Ryori, within the Daitoku-ji area, reserving ahead if possible. The Buddhist vegetarian set meals are beautifully presented and typically cost ¥3,000–6,000; allow about an hour so the meal does not feel rushed. From Ninna-ji, the simplest connection is a bus toward Kitaōji or Daitokuji-mae, usually 25–35 minutes depending on traffic. After lunch, spend roughly two hours exploring Daitoku-ji and whichever subtemples are open that day. The complex is not one single ticketed attraction: individual subtemples charge separately, often around ¥400–800, and opening arrangements can change with seasonal exhibitions. Keep the afternoon unhurried—its lanes, earthen walls, and clipped gardens are the main pleasure, rather than trying to enter every hall. Carry a little cash and use the bus for the return to central Kyoto; allow 30–45 minutes in normal traffic.

Day 46 · Thu, Jun 3
Kyoto, Japan

Arashiyama and western Kyoto

  1. Arashiyama Bamboo Grove — Arashiyama; walk through Kyoto’s famous bamboo forest early in the day (morning, ~45 minutes).
  2. Tenryu-ji — Arashiyama; combine a major Zen temple with a landscaped garden (morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Togetsukyo Bridge — Arashiyama; enjoy classic river and mountain views (late morning, ~45 minutes).
  4. Okochi Sanso Garden — Arashiyama hillside; explore a former actor’s exquisite garden retreat (afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  5. Saga Toriimoto Preserved Street — northern Arashiyama; stroll a quieter historic approach to temples (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  6. Yudofu Sagano — Arashiyama; eat Kyoto’s traditional tofu hot pot (dinner, ¥3,000–6,000).

Morning

Start at Arashiyama Bamboo Grove around 7:30–8:00, before the narrow path turns into a procession of selfie sticks. From Arashiyama Station, it is about a 10-minute walk; the grove is free and open at all hours. The walk itself takes roughly 45 minutes, but linger at the quieter northern end near Nonomiya Shrine rather than stopping only at the most photographed entrance.

Continue directly to Tenryu-ji, where the temple buildings and garden generally open from 8:30, with admission around ¥500 for the garden and an additional fee for the buildings. Allow about 1½ hours to wander beside the pond and through the landscaped grounds, where the borrowed scenery of the Arashiyama hills is particularly beautiful in late spring. Exit through the north gate, which leads conveniently toward the bamboo grove and avoids retracing your steps.

Late Morning and Afternoon

Walk down toward Togetsukyo Bridge, allowing about 15 minutes from Tenryu-ji. Spend 45 minutes along the riverbank and bridge approaches, looking upstream toward the wooded hills; the southern side is usually calmer than the main station-side promenade. For lunch, pick up something simple around Arashiyama Station or the small side streets near the river, then make the uphill walk to Okochi Sanso Garden. The entrance fee is about ¥1,000, but it includes a small sweet and matcha; allow 1½ hours for the beautifully maintained paths, teahouses, and elevated views over western Kyoto. Wear proper shoes—the garden is gently but persistently uphill.

From Okochi Sanso, continue north into Saga Toriimoto Preserved Street, a quieter stretch of thatched and timbered traditional houses. Allow about an hour to stroll without rushing, perhaps pausing at one of the small craft shops or cafés along the way. It is roughly a 20–25-minute walk from the garden, and taxis are useful if your legs are tired; buses are less convenient here, so check the return route before walking too far beyond the preserved street.

Evening

Return toward central Arashiyama for dinner at Yudofu Sagano, a well-known specialist in Kyoto-style tofu hot pot. Expect approximately ¥3,000–6,000 per person, depending on the set menu, and reserve ahead if possible—traditional tofu restaurants often fill early, especially during the spring season. The meal is deliberately gentle and seasonal rather than heavy: silken tofu, vegetables, sesame tofu, and small Kyoto side dishes. Afterward, take the Randen tram from Arashiyama Station or a taxi back to your accommodation; allow 20–30 minutes for the trip into central Kyoto, and remember that the riverside area becomes very quiet once the day-trippers have gone.

Day 47 · Fri, Jun 4
Uji, Japan

Uji tea town

Getting there from Kyoto
JR Nara Line from Kyoto to Uji (about 20–30 min, ¥240–¥350). Use IC card; depart early.
  1. Byodo-in — Uji; admire the Phoenix Hall beside its reflective pond (morning, ~1.5 hours).
  2. Byodo-in Museum Hoshokan — Uji; view temple treasures in a modern underground gallery (late morning, ~45 minutes).
  3. Uji Bridge — Uji River; cross one of Japan’s oldest celebrated bridges (noon, ~30 minutes).
  4. Mimuroto-ji — Uji; explore temple gardens renowned for seasonal flowers (afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  5. Taihoan — Uji; participate in a traditional tea experience near Byodo-in (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  6. Nakamura Tokichi Honten — Uji; enjoy matcha soba, sweets, or tea (lunch, ¥1,500–3,000).

Morning

Take an early JR Nara Line train from Kyoto Station to Uji Station—roughly 20–30 minutes—and walk about 10 minutes toward the riverfront. Start at Byodo-in, arriving close to opening, usually 8:30, before the approach becomes busy. The temple’s famous Phoenix Hall sits beautifully across its reflective pond; allow around 1½ hours for the grounds. Entry is generally about ¥700, with a separate timed ticket—roughly ¥300—for the interior visit to the hall, which often sells out, so ask for a morning slot on arrival. Continue into the underground Byodo-in Museum Hoshokan, where the temple bell, phoenix ornaments, and other treasures are displayed in a cool, thoughtfully designed gallery; allow about 45 minutes.

Lunch and Riverside Walk

For lunch, walk back toward the station through Uji’s tea streets and settle at Nakamura Tokichi Honten, one of the town’s classic tea houses. Expect a queue around midday, but the wait is worthwhile for matcha soba, seasonal parfaits, or a bowl of richly flavored green-tea sweets—budget roughly ¥1,500–3,000. Afterward, stroll to Uji Bridge, about 10 minutes away. Cross slowly and pause mid-span for views up and down the Uji River; this is a pleasant place to let the day breathe rather than treating it as a quick photo stop.

Afternoon and Tea

From Uji Bridge, take a local bus or taxi toward Mimuroto-ji—about 10–15 minutes, depending on the service—and allow 1½ hours for the temple gardens. The grounds are especially attractive in late spring, with irises, azaleas, hydrangeas, and shaded walking paths depending on the flowering season; admission is commonly around ¥500–1,000 and seasonal opening times vary, so check the day’s schedule before setting out. Return toward the Byodo-in area for Taihoan, where a traditional tea experience usually lasts about an hour. Remove your shoes, follow the host’s instructions, and take your time with the tea and small sweet—this is a quieter, more intimate finish than a busy café tasting. From there, it is an easy walk back to Uji Station for frequent trains to Kyoto.

Day 48 · Sat, Jun 5
Himeji, Japan

Himeji castle city

Getting there from Uji
JR Nara Line to Kyoto, then Sanyo Shinkansen to Himeji (about 1 hr 30 min–2 hr, ¥5,500–¥7,000). Book via SmartEX/JR-WEST; early departure.
  1. Himeji Castle — Himeji center; tour Japan’s most spectacular surviving feudal castle (morning, ~2.5 hours).
  2. Koko-en Garden — beside Himeji Castle; walk nine carefully designed Edo-style gardens (early afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Himeji City Museum of Literature — Himeji; see a museum designed by Tadao Ando (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  4. Engyo-ji — Mount Shosha; visit atmospheric temple halls in a forested mountain setting (late afternoon, ~2 hours).
  5. Menme — Himeji center; eat handmade udon near the station (lunch, ¥1,000–2,000).

Morning

Take an early JR Nara Line train from Uji to Kyoto, then continue by Sanyo Shinkansen to Himeji. Leave around 7:00–7:30 to reach Himeji Station before 9:00; lockers and hotel luggage storage are available at the station. From the north exit, walk straight along Otemae-dori for about 20 minutes, or take a short taxi ride if you are carrying bags. Start at Himeji Castle when it opens, usually 9:00. Allow around 2½ hours for the climb through the gates, wooden interiors, steep staircases, and upper floors—wear shoes that are easy to remove, as you will be walking through historic rooms in socks. The admission fee is generally around ¥1,000, with combination tickets available for the castle and nearby garden.

Lunch and Afternoon

Walk back toward the station and stop at Menme, a popular local udon shop near Himeji Station, for handmade noodles in a ¥1,000–2,000 lunch. It is a straightforward, unfussy place, so expect a queue at peak lunchtime but quick turnover. Afterwards, return toward the castle for Koko-en Garden, immediately beside the west side of the castle grounds. Its nine distinct Edo-style gardens—particularly the pond garden and tea garden—make a calmer contrast to the castle, and about 1½ hours is enough for an unhurried circuit. A combination ticket is usually better value than separate admission.

Late Afternoon and Evening

From the castle area, take a bus or taxi to Himeji City Museum of Literature—allow roughly 15 minutes by taxi, or longer by local bus—and spend about an hour inside Tadao Ando’s striking concrete building. The upper galleries have excellent views back toward the castle, while the exhibits focus on writers connected with the region. Finish at Engyo-ji on Mount Shosha: take a local bus from near the museum or central Himeji to the Mount Shosha Ropeway station, then ride up and follow the forest paths to the temple halls. Allow about two hours including the ropeway and walking; the final approach is uneven and can be muddy after rain. The mountain is much quieter than the castle, and the cedar forest around Maniden is especially atmospheric in the late afternoon. Check the final ropeway departure before setting out, and return to central Himeji for the evening rather than lingering on the mountain after dark.

Day 49 · Sun, Jun 6
Kobe, Japan

Kobe harbor city

Getting there from Himeji
JR Special Rapid from Himeji to Sannomiya (about 40 min, ¥1,000–¥1,300). Use IC card; morning departure.
  1. Nunobiki Herb Gardens & Ropeway — Shin-Kobe; ride above Kobe and stroll fragrant hillside gardens (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Kitano Ijinkan-Gai — Kitano; explore former foreign residences on the hillside (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Ikuta Shrine — Sannomiya; visit one of Japan’s oldest shrines in the city center (early afternoon, ~45 minutes).
  4. Kobe Chinatown — Nankinmachi; sample dumplings, buns, and street food (lunch, ¥1,500–3,000).
  5. Kobe Harborland — waterfront; enjoy sunset promenades and harbor views (evening, ~1.5 hours).
  6. Mouriya Honten — Sannomiya; celebrate with renowned Kobe beef (dinner, ¥6,000–12,000).

Morning

Take the JR Special Rapid from Himeji to Sannomiya, then continue to Shin-Kobe Station for Nunobiki Herb Gardens & Ropeway. Aim to arrive around 9:30–10:00; the ropeway ride takes you high above the city in minutes, with broad views across Kobe and the harbour. Allow about two hours to wander the hillside gardens, greenhouses, and scented paths. The return ticket is typically around ¥2,000, and the ride can pause in strong winds, so check conditions if the morning is unsettled.

From Shin-Kobe, walk or take the subway one stop to Sannomiya, then climb gently into Kitano Ijinkan-Gai, the former foreign-residence district. Spend roughly 1½ hours exploring the atmospheric lanes and choosing one or two preserved houses rather than trying to enter them all; combination tickets generally cost around ¥2,000–3,000. The hillside is more pleasant before lunch, but wear shoes with good grip on the sloping streets.

Lunch and Afternoon

Walk back downhill toward Ikuta Shrine, a compact and leafy sanctuary tucked into central Kobe. Allow about 45 minutes to pass through the torii, see the main shrine buildings, and look for the small Ikuta Forest behind the precinct. From there, it is only a few minutes to Kobe Chinatown, also called Nankinmachi, where the best approach is to graze rather than sit down for a long meal: try steamed buns, soup dumplings, sesame balls, and grilled pork skewers from the stalls along Nankinmachi Square. Budget ¥1,500–3,000, and expect the busiest queues around noon; a slightly late lunch is easier.

Evening

After lunch, leave the Chinatown lanes through Motomachi and walk toward Kobe Harborland, roughly 20 minutes along the waterfront. Set aside about 1½ hours for the promenade around umie and Mosaic, with time for the harbour lights, ferries, and views back toward the city. Sunset is particularly good from the waterside decks, though the exact timing in early June is around 19:10; arrive a little beforehand if you want the changing sky.

Finish back in Sannomiya at Mouriya Honten, where the chefs cook well-marbled Kobe beef teppanyaki directly in front of you. Dinner usually runs ¥6,000–12,000 depending on the cut and course, and reservations are strongly advisable—especially for a counter seat. From Harborland, take the JR or Hanshin line back toward Sannomiya rather than walking if your legs are tired, allowing about 10 minutes on the train plus the short walk to the restaurant.

Day 50 · Mon, Jun 7
Osaka, Japan

Osaka return

Getting there from Kobe
JR Special Rapid from Sannomiya to Osaka (about 25 min, ¥430–¥500). Use IC card; frequent service.
  1. Sumiyoshi Taisha — Sumiyoshi; begin the final day at Osaka’s distinctive ancient shrine (morning, ~1 hour).
  2. Abeno Harukas Observatory — Tennoji; take in a final panoramic view of Osaka (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Shinsekai — Tennoji; revisit Osaka’s retro streets for a relaxed farewell stroll (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  4. Spa World — Shinsekai; unwind with themed baths before departure (afternoon, ~2 hours).
  5. Endo Sushi — Osaka City Central Wholesale Market; finish with excellent market sushi (lunch, ¥2,000–4,000).

Morning

Take the frequent JR Special Rapid from Sannomiya to Osaka Station—about 25 minutes—then continue on the Osaka Loop Line to Sumiyoshi Taisha via Tennoji. Aim to arrive around 8:30–9:00, when the shrine grounds are peaceful and the distinctive arched Sorihashi Bridge is easy to appreciate without crowds. Allow about an hour to wander through the pine-lined precincts and offer a final prayer at one of Osaka’s most atmospheric Shinto sites; entry is free, and the grounds open early. From Sumiyoshi Taisha Station, return toward Tennoji on the Hankai Tramway or Nankai Line, depending on your onward route.

Late Morning and Lunch

At Abeno Harukas, take the dedicated lift to Harukas 300, Osaka’s highest observation deck. A timed ticket is usually around ¥2,000, and late morning gives you clear city views before haze builds; allow roughly 1½ hours, including the open-air rooftop section and café. Afterward, walk south through Shinsekai, following Jan-Jan Yokocho and the streets around Tsutenkaku for a relaxed farewell stroll. For lunch, take the short walk or subway ride to Osaka City Central Wholesale Market and join the queue at Endo Sushi. Expect a compact, lively market setting and excellent nigiri for roughly ¥2,000–4,000; go before the late lunch rush, as the shop usually closes once its morning stock is gone.

Afternoon and Farewell

Return to Shinsekai and spend about two hours at Spa World, a convenient final stop before leaving Osaka. The themed bathing floors change by month, with European- and Asian-inspired baths, saunas, and relaxation areas; admission is commonly around ¥1,500–2,000, though prices and opening hours can vary. Bring a small towel or buy one there, and note that standard Japanese bathing etiquette applies—wash thoroughly before entering the baths, and tattoos may require covering or may be restricted. From Dobutsuen-mae Station, you have straightforward connections to Osaka Station, Namba, or Shin-Osaka for your next departure.

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