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Japan Food, Cars, Record Shops and Culture Itinerary

Day 1
Shinjuku, Tokyo

Arrival and exploring Shinjuku

  1. Narita Express — Narita Airport → Shinjuku; afternoon, ~90 minutes. Travel to Shinjuku, allowing time for luggage and hotel check-in.
  2. Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden — Shinjuku; late afternoon, ~1.5 hours. Relax among landscaped gardens after the flight.
  3. Omoide Yokocho — Shinjuku; early evening, ~1 hour. Explore atmospheric alleyways and small yakitori counters.
  4. Sushi-Zanmai Higashi-Shinjuku — Kabukicho; dinner, ~1 hour, ¥2,000–4,000 per person. An easy first-night sushi option.
  5. Golden Gai — Kabukicho; evening, ~2 hours. Visit several tiny bars and settle into Tokyo nightlife.

Afternoon — Airport to the garden

After landing, take the Narita Express directly from Narita Airport to Shinjuku; the journey is roughly 90 minutes, with reserved seating and space for luggage. Allow extra time at the airport for immigration, baggage collection and finding the JR platforms. From Shinjuku Station, walk or take a short taxi to your hotel, drop your bags, and keep the first afternoon deliberately easy. Aim to reach Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden by around 3:30–4:00 pm. It is a particularly good first stop after a flight: broad lawns, landscaped Japanese and French gardens, and plenty of quiet paths away from the station crowds. The garden usually closes around 5:30 pm, with last entry roughly 30 minutes earlier; admission is about ¥500, and hours can change seasonally, so check on the day.

Evening — Yakitori alleys and tiny bars

From the garden, walk about 15 minutes toward Omoide Yokocho, the narrow lantern-lit maze beside the west side of Shinjuku Station. Spend an hour wandering and choosing a yakitori counter rather than trying to force a full meal here; many seats are cramped, menus may be limited, and some places add a small seating charge. Continue east into Kabukicho for dinner at Sushi-Zanmai Higashi-Shinjuku, an uncomplicated first-night option where you can order individual sushi pieces or a set meal, generally ¥2,000–4,000 per person. It is open late and usually easier than committing to a formal reservation after travelling.

Finish at Golden Gai, a few minutes’ walk away. The hundreds of tiny bars are best approached casually: check the cover charge before sitting down, expect space for only a handful of people, and carry cash as some bars do not accept cards. Choose one or two places rather than racing through them—this is a good night to absorb the atmosphere, with last trains on the main Shinjuku lines generally around midnight. If you are tired, head back early; Golden Gai is just as atmospheric on a quiet wander as it is during a full bar crawl.

Day 2 · Sat, Oct 24
Shinjuku, Tokyo

Shinjuku food and nightlife

  1. Hanazono Shrine — Shinjuku; morning, ~45 minutes. Visit this wooded Shinto shrine beside Kabukicho.
  2. Tsukiji Outer Market — Tsukiji; late morning, ~2 hours. Browse seafood stalls, tamagoyaki vendors, and casual sushi counters.
  3. Kappabashi Street — Asakusa; afternoon, ~1.5 hours. Shop for Japanese knives, ceramics, and kitchenware.
  4. Tempura Nakasei — Asakusa; dinner, ~1.5 hours, ¥3,000–6,000 per person. Enjoy classic tempura near Senso-ji.
  5. Kabukicho Tower — Shinjuku; night, ~2 hours. Finish with food halls, entertainment, and city views.

Morning — Hanazono Shrine

Start around 9:30am at Hanazono Shrine, tucked into a leafy pocket just east of Kabukicho. It is a small, atmospheric stop rather than a major sightseeing block: pass through the red torii, look for the many fox figures associated with Inari worship, and take a few quiet minutes before Shinjuku gets busy. The shrine grounds are free and generally accessible throughout the day; allow about 45 minutes. From Shinjuku, it is an easy 10-minute walk, or one stop on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line to Shinjuku-sanchome followed by a short walk.

Late Morning — Tsukiji Outer Market

Head to Tsukiji Outer Market next. From Shinjuku-sanchome, take the Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line to Ginza, then change to the Hibiya Line for Tsukiji—roughly 25 minutes in total. Arrive around 11:00am, when the market is still lively but the earliest fish auctions and breakfast queues have eased. Spend a couple of hours grazing rather than committing to one large meal: try grilled seafood, tamagoyaki, oysters or a small sushi set, and browse the knife, tea and pickles shops along the side streets. Individual stalls typically operate from around 8:00am into the early afternoon, though hours vary and many close once their stock sells out; carry cash and avoid blocking the narrow lanes.

Afternoon and Evening — Kappabashi Street, Tempura Nakasei and Kabukicho Tower

From Tsukiji, take the Hibiya Line to Ueno, then the Ginza Line to Tawaramachi—about 30 minutes. Wander north along Kappabashi Street for around 90 minutes, looking through the professional cookware shops for Japanese knives, handmade ceramics, lacquerware and remarkably realistic plastic food samples. Most stores open around 10:00am and close by 5:00–6:00pm, so this is best done before dinner; if you buy a knife, ask the shop about engraving and transport rules. Continue to Tempura Nakasei near Senso-ji for dinner, allowing roughly ¥3,000–6,000 per person and arriving early or reserving where possible, as traditional counter seating can be limited. Return to Shinjuku afterward by Ginza Line from Tawaramachi to Ueno, then the JR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku, taking about 35–40 minutes. Finish at Kabukicho Tower, where the upper floors offer nighttime views and the lower food and entertainment levels are easy for a relaxed wander; check the observation and venue closing times on the day, and keep your ticket or reservation details handy for any timed areas.

Day 3 · Sun, Oct 25
Shinjuku, Tokyo

Tokyo cars, records and cafes

  1. Toyota Automobile Museum — Nagoya; morning to afternoon, ~4 hours. Take a morning shinkansen to Nagoya for one of Japan’s best automotive collections.
  2. Nagoya Station — Nagoya; lunch, ~1 hour, ¥1,000–2,500 per person. Try hitsumabushi or miso-katsu in the station dining areas.
  3. Record Hunter — Shinjuku; evening, ~1 hour. Browse a compact local selection of vinyl after returning to Tokyo.
  4. Blue Bottle Coffee Shinjuku — Shinjuku; evening, ~45 minutes, ¥700–1,500 per person. Have a relaxed coffee before heading back.

Morning — Shinkansen to Toyota Automobile Museum

This is an ambitious day trip from Shinjuku, so leave around 7:00am and take the Tokaido Shinkansen from Shinagawa or Tokyo to Nagoya—the fastest Nozomi service takes about 1 hour 40 minutes. From Nagoya, continue on the Higashiyama Subway Line to Fujigaoka, then transfer to the Linimo for Geidai-dori; allow roughly 45–60 minutes from Nagoya Station. The Toyota Automobile Museum is about a five-minute walk from the station. Check the museum’s calendar before going, as it is generally open 9:30am–5:00pm and closed on Mondays; admission is usually around ¥1,200. Give yourselves close to four hours—the collection moves from early motoring through Japanese classics and European and American cars, with plenty of design details and oddball vehicles worth lingering over.

Lunch — Nagoya Station

After the museum, return to Nagoya Station for lunch before the trip back to Tokyo. The station’s JR Central Towers, Gate Tower, and Esca underground mall make this easy without losing time hunting around the city. Go for hitsumabushi—grilled eel served three ways—or miso-katsu, Nagoya’s crisp pork cutlet with a sweet-red miso sauce; allow ¥1,000–2,500 per person and expect a queue at the better-known eel restaurants. A quick meal is sensible here, since the return shinkansen is another 1 hour 40 minutes and you still have an evening browse planned in Shinjuku.

Evening — Record Hunter and Blue Bottle Coffee Shinjuku

Take a late-afternoon Nozomi back to Shinagawa or Tokyo, then return to Shinjuku by JR. Head first to Record Hunter, a compact shop suited to an unhurried dig after the long museum visit; allow about an hour and check its current opening time before leaving Nagoya, as smaller record shops can keep irregular hours. Finish at Blue Bottle Coffee Shinjuku for a calmer landing—roughly ¥700–1,500 per person, with espresso drinks, filter coffee, and light snacks. It is a good place to sort through the day’s finds before walking back to your accommodation; if you are carrying vinyl, bring a sleeve or tote, as the crowded evening trains are not kind to unprotected records.

Day 4 · Mon, Oct 26
Shinjuku, Tokyo

Shrines and neighborhoods of Tokyo

  1. Meiji Jingu — Harajuku; morning, ~1.5 hours. Walk through the forested approach to Tokyo’s major imperial shrine.
  2. Nezu Museum — Aoyama; late morning, ~2 hours. See Japanese and East Asian art in a serene modern setting.
  3. Nezu Shrine — Nezu; afternoon, ~1 hour. Explore one of Tokyo’s most atmospheric shrine grounds.
  4. Yanaka Ginza — Yanaka; late afternoon, ~1.5 hours. Stroll the old shopping street and sample local snacks.
  5. Hoppy Street — Asakusa; dinner, ~1.5 hours, ¥2,000–4,000 per person. Try casual izakaya food and drinks.

Morning — Meiji Jingu

Start around 8:00am at Meiji Jingu, entering from Harajuku Station and allowing roughly 90 minutes for the forested approach, shrine buildings and surrounding paths. The grounds open from sunrise and admission is free; early morning is the best time to avoid the busiest crowds and see local worshippers making quiet visits. Keep voices low around the main shrine, and bring a small amount of cash if you would like to make an offering. From the shrine, walk out toward Omotesando and take the Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line from Meiji-jingumae Station to Omote-sando Station, or walk about 15 minutes to the next stop.

Late Morning — Nezu Museum

Spend around two hours at Nezu Museum, a particularly calm contrast to Harajuku’s shopping streets. It usually opens at 10:00am and is closed on Mondays; general admission is commonly around ¥1,300–2,000 depending on the exhibition. The collection covers Japanese and East Asian art, while the garden is worth allowing time for even if you are not normally museum-focused. The museum is a short walk from Omote-sando Station, and after visiting, continue to Nezu by taking the Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line from Omote-sando to Nezu—roughly 20 minutes including the platform change and walk.

Afternoon — Nezu Shrine and Yanaka Ginza

After lunch around Nezu, visit Nezu Shrine, allowing about an hour for the bright torii-lined hillside, gardens and compact shrine grounds. The shrine is generally open from early morning until late afternoon or early evening, with no admission charge; the exact garden access and hours can vary seasonally. From there, walk north through the old residential lanes toward Yanaka Ginza, roughly 15–20 minutes. Give yourselves about 90 minutes to browse the small shops and snack stalls along the sloping street—look for grilled items, traditional sweets and takeaway croquettes rather than planning a formal meal. This part of Tokyo is best enjoyed slowly, with side streets around Sendagi and Yanaka offering a much quieter feel than central Harajuku.

Evening — Hoppy Street

Finish in Asakusa at Hoppy Street, reached from Nippori Station by the JR Yamanote Line to Ueno, then the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line to Asakusa—around 25–30 minutes in total. The street’s casual izakaya are ideal for an unplanned dinner of motsu stew, grilled skewers and other inexpensive drinking food; expect roughly ¥2,000–4,000 per person, with many places operating from late morning into the evening. Choose a busy counter or open-front table, order a Hoppy mixed drink if you want the local classic, and keep some cash handy. Afterward, take a short walk toward the Sumida River or Kaminarimon before catching the Ginza Line back toward Ueno and transferring to the JR Yamanote Line for Shinjuku.

Day 5 · Tue, Oct 27
Shinjuku, Tokyo

Tokyo matcha and record shopping

  1. Saryo Tsujiri Daimaru Tokyo — Marunouchi; morning, ~1 hour, ¥1,000–2,000 per person. Start with refined matcha desserts and drinks.
  2. Tokyo Station Gallery — Marunouchi; late morning, ~1.5 hours. Visit a rotating art exhibition inside the historic station building.
  3. Disk Union Shinjuku — Shinjuku; afternoon, ~2 hours. Search several floors for Japanese, jazz, rock, and electronic records.
  4. Jazz Cafe DUG — Shinjuku; late afternoon, ~1 hour, ¥1,000–2,000 per person. Listen to records in an intimate, long-running jazz café.
  5. Shinjuku Batting Center — Kabukicho; evening, ~1 hour. Add a playful local experience before dinner.

Morning — Matcha in Marunouchi

Take the JR Chuo Line from Shinjuku Station to Tokyo Station—about 15 minutes—and head first to Saryo Tsujiri Daimaru Tokyo on the 10th floor of Daimaru Tokyo. Aim for around 10:00am, when the department store opens, as seating can fill later. Order a matcha parfait, soft serve or a hot matcha drink; allow about an hour and roughly ¥1,000–2,000 per person. From there, walk across to Tokyo Station Gallery, whose entrance is in the Marunouchi side of the red-brick station building. Spend around 90 minutes with the current exhibition; opening hours are commonly 10:00am–6:00pm, with later closing on some Fridays, but check the exhibition page because schedules and admission fees vary.

Afternoon — Records and jazz

Return to Shinjuku by JR—roughly 15 minutes—and have an unhurried lunch around Shinjuku Sanchome before browsing Disk Union Shinjuku. The shops are spread across several floors and nearby branches, so allow two hours rather than trying to rush: check the Japanese, jazz, rock and electronic sections, and ask staff to point you toward reissues or original pressings if you have a particular artist in mind. Most branches open from late morning until evening, generally around 11:00am–9:00pm. Once your bags are full, walk west toward Jazz Cafe DUG, a compact, atmospheric listening bar that has been part of Shinjuku’s jazz culture for decades. Settle in for an hour with a drink—expect around ¥1,000–2,000 per person—and keep voices low; this is somewhere to listen rather than simply use as a café.

Evening — A few swings in Kabukicho

Finish at Shinjuku Batting Center, about a 10-minute walk from Jazz Cafe DUG through Kabukicho. It is wonderfully low-key and local-feeling amid the neon: buy a token at the machine, choose a speed and take a few rounds in the covered cages. Allow about an hour, though you may stay longer if you get competitive. Prices are usually a few hundred yen per game, and the center often remains open late into the night. Afterwards, you are perfectly placed to choose dinner in Kabukicho or Shinjuku Sanchome—look for a small yakitori counter or izakaya rather than committing to another major destination. Bring a light layer for the walk between stops, and keep fragile records in a protective bag while batting.

Day 6 · Wed, Oct 28
Shinjuku, Tokyo

Tokyo bars and clubbing

  1. Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum — Koganei; morning, ~3 hours. Explore preserved historic buildings in a spacious park.
  2. Koenji Pal — Koenji; afternoon, ~2 hours. Browse independent clothing, vintage shops, and side-street cafés.
  3. Koenji High — Koenji; evening, ~2 hours. Catch live music in one of Tokyo’s best-known club venues.
  4. WOMB — Shibuya; late night, ~3–4 hours. Dance at a major electronic-music club; check the event calendar in advance.

Morning — Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum

Leave Shinjuku around 8:15am for Musashi-Koganei Station on the JR Chuo Line; the journey takes roughly 25 minutes. From the north exit, take a Seibu bus toward Koganei Park—allow another 10–15 minutes—or use a taxi if you want to save time. The Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum generally opens at 9:30am, with admission around ¥400, and is best treated as a relaxed three-hour walk rather than a quick museum visit. Its relocated homes, shops and public buildings span the late Edo period through the early Showa era, and the broad park setting makes it a particularly pleasant autumn morning. Wear comfortable shoes; several interiors require you to remove them, and some buildings have uneven wooden floors.

Afternoon — Koenji Pal

Return to Musashi-Koganei Station and take the JR Chuo Line to Koenji, normally about 25 minutes. Grab lunch around the station before exploring Koenji Pal, the covered shopping arcade running south from the station. This is a good place to browse slowly: look for second-hand clothing, small vintage stores, record-adjacent finds and the narrow side streets branching toward Shin-Koenji. The arcade itself is generally active from late morning into the evening, although individual shops vary; ¥1,000–2,000 is enough for a casual lunch and coffee. Give yourselves a couple of hours without a strict route—the best discoveries are often in the smaller lanes rather than on the main arcade.

Evening and late night — Koenji High and WOMB

Stay in Koenji for an early dinner, then head to Koenji High, a compact live-music venue known for adventurous Japanese indie, punk and alternative bills. Doors and show times vary, but many events begin around 6:00–7:00pm; check the official schedule and buy tickets ahead if a popular act is playing. Expect roughly ¥2,500–4,500 for entry, often with a required drink charge. After the show, take the JR Chuo Line to Shinjuku, then the JR Yamanote Line or Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line toward Shibuya; allow about 30–40 minutes overall. Finish at WOMB, a large electronic club in Maruyamacho, where the main room and multi-level sound system usually get busier after midnight. Check the event calendar, dress comfortably, bring photo ID, and budget around ¥2,000–4,000 for entry plus drinks. Trains stop before the club is finished, so either plan to stay until the first trains around 5:00am or use a late-night taxi; Shibuya to Shinjuku is usually ¥2,000–3,500 overnight.

Day 7 · Thu, Oct 29
Shibu Onsen, Nagano

Travel to Shibu Onsen

Getting there from Shinjuku, Tokyo
Train: JR Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano, then Nagano Dentetsu to Yudanaka, followed by the hotel shuttle or local bus to Shibu Onsen (about 3–3.5 hours, ¥9,000–11,000). Depart around 7:00–8:00 AM to match the planned morning transfer and afternoon check-in. Book the shinkansen via JR East Train Reservation; buy the Nagano Dentetsu ticket locally or via its website.
Express bus from Shinjuku to Nagano, then Nagano Dentetsu to Yudanaka (about 4.5–5.5 hours, ¥5,000–7,000 total). Book the bus on Highwaybus.com; less convenient with luggage.
  1. JR Shinkansen and Nagano Dentetsu — Shinjuku → Nagano → Yudanaka; morning, ~4 hours. Depart early, transfer at Nagano, and continue by local train to Shibu Onsen.
  2. Shibu Onsen town — Shibu Onsen; afternoon, ~1.5 hours. Check in, collect a yukata, and walk the traditional lanes.
  3. Shibu Onsen Public Bathhouses — Shibu Onsen; late afternoon, ~2 hours. Begin the famous bathhouse circuit available to staying guests.
  4. Kanaguya — Shibu Onsen; evening, ~45 minutes. Admire the historic ryokan exterior that inspired classic Japanese animation imagery.
  5. Ryokan kaiseki dinner — Shibu Onsen; dinner, ~2 hours, ¥8,000–15,000 per person. Enjoy a traditional multi-course meal at your accommodation.

Morning — Tokyo to the mountains

Leave Shinjuku around 7:00–7:30am so you reach Shibu Onsen with time to settle in. Follow the reserved Shinkansen connection to Nagano, then change to the Nagano Dentetsu local train for Yudanaka; the final approach through the hills is part of the charm. At Yudanaka Station, arrange your accommodation’s shuttle in advance or take a local bus toward Shibu Onsen. Allow roughly 3–3½ hours overall and keep a little cash handy for the local transport. If you have large luggage, ask your Tokyo hotel about forwarding it ahead—Shibu’s narrow, sloping lanes are awkward with suitcases.

Afternoon — First walk through Shibu Onsen

After checking in, collect your yukata and wooden geta, then spend about 90 minutes wandering Shibu Onsen town at an easy pace. The old stone lanes, timber ryokan facades, steaming drains and little bridges are best enjoyed without a fixed route; stop for a warm drink or a small snack if something catches your eye. Staying guests can normally access the celebrated public bathhouse circuit with the ryokan-issued key or pass, so confirm the procedure and bathing hours at check-in. Bring a small towel, but remember that towels are generally not provided inside the neighborhood baths; modesty towels and toiletries are easy to buy locally.

Late afternoon and evening — Bathhouse circuit and kaiseki

Begin the Shibu Onsen Public Bathhouses around 4:00pm, visiting a selection rather than rushing to complete every one. Wash thoroughly before entering each bath, keep towels out of the water, and expect some pools to be quite hot. Afterwards, walk to Kanaguya, the ornate historic ryokan whose layered wooden architecture is often associated with classic Japanese animation imagery; admire it from the public street rather than entering unless you are a guest. Return to your accommodation for a traditional ryokan kaiseki dinner, usually served from around 6:00–7:00pm and costing approximately ¥8,000–15,000 per person. It is a generous multi-course meal, so avoid filling up on snacks beforehand, and finish the night with one quiet outdoor bath or a short yukata-clad stroll through the lantern-lit lanes.

Day 8 · Fri, Oct 30
Shibu Onsen, Nagano

Onsen and historic Shibu Onsen

  1. Jigokudani Monkey Park — Yamanouchi; morning, ~3 hours. Walk through the forest to see snow monkeys near the hot springs.
  2. Sasaya Bakery — Yudanaka; lunch, ~45 minutes, ¥800–1,500 per person. Pick up simple breads and pastries locally.
  3. Shibu Onsen Museum — Shibu Onsen; afternoon, ~45 minutes. Learn about the area’s bathing tradition and history.
  4. Oyu — Shibu Onsen; late afternoon, ~45 minutes. Soak in one of the town’s distinctive public baths.
  5. Shibu Onsen evening stroll — Shibu Onsen; evening, ~1 hour. Walk lantern-lit streets in yukata after dinner.

Morning — Jigokudani Monkey Park

Have breakfast at your ryokan, then leave Shibu Onsen around 8:00am for Jigokudani Monkey Park. The easiest option is the seasonal bus or a taxi to the Snow Monkey Park entrance; allow roughly 15–20 minutes by taxi, or closer to 30 minutes by bus depending on the service. From the entrance, the forest trail takes about 30 minutes each way. It is an easy-to-moderate walk, but can be slippery in late October, so wear proper shoes rather than sandals. The monkeys are wild, and the viewing area is best reached before the larger midday crowds; allow about three hours including the walk. Admission is approximately ¥800, and the park generally opens from around 8:30am, though check the official schedule before setting out.

Lunch — Sasaya Bakery

Return via Yudanaka and stop at Sasaya Bakery for a relaxed, inexpensive lunch. Pick up a selection of filled breads, savoury pastries and something sweet—around ¥800–1,500 per person—and, if the weather is good, make it a casual picnic nearby rather than rushing straight back to the ryokan. The bakery’s hours can vary, and smaller local shops may sell out of popular items, so aim for lunchtime and carry a little cash. From Yudanaka, Shibu Onsen is only a short bus ride or roughly 25 minutes on foot if you feel like walking through the old spa district.

Afternoon and Evening — Shibu Onsen Museum, Oyu and the lantern streets

Spend the afternoon at the Shibu Onsen Museum, a compact stop of about 45 minutes that gives useful context to the town’s bathing culture, wooden ryokan and long history as a hot-spring settlement. It is the kind of small local museum best enjoyed without overplanning; confirm the day’s opening hours at your accommodation, as smaller attractions in the area can keep irregular schedules. Afterwards, change into your yukata and head to Oyu, one of the public baths associated with Shibu Onsen’s traditional bathhouse circuit. Allow around 45 minutes, and bring a small towel; tattoos and entry arrangements can vary, so ask your ryokan whether they provide the appropriate key or pass. After dinner, take an hour to wander Shibu Onsen itself, following the narrow stone lanes past the nine public bathhouses, red lanterns and wooden facades. The atmosphere is especially good after dark, when guests in yukata move between baths; keep voices low and avoid photographing people entering or leaving the bathhouses.

Day 9 · Sat, Oct 31
Hiroshima, Hiroshima Prefecture

Travel to Hiroshima

Getting there from Shibu Onsen, Nagano
Train: Nagano Dentetsu from Yudanaka to Nagano, then Hokuriku Shinkansen to Tokyo and Tokaido/Sanyo Shinkansen to Hiroshima (about 7–8 hours, ¥23,000–26,000). Depart around 6:30–7:00 AM; reserve seats and allow time for the Nagano transfer. Book via SmartEX for the Tokyo–Hiroshima portion and JR East Train Reservation for the Nagano–Tokyo portion.
Train to Nagano, then limited express/high-speed rail connections via Kanazawa and Kyoto/Osaka (roughly 8–9 hours, similar cost). Usually less practical than changing at Tokyo.
  1. Nagano Dentetsu and Sanyo Shinkansen — Yudanaka → Nagano → Hiroshima; morning to afternoon, ~7 hours. Depart early and reserve seats with luggage space.
  2. Hiroshima Station ekie — Hiroshima Station; late afternoon, ~1 hour, ¥1,000–2,500 per person. Eat an easy first meal of local specialties after arrival.
  3. Shukkeien Garden — Near Hiroshima Station; evening, ~1 hour. Take a gentle garden walk before dinner.
  4. Okonomiyaki Kogetsu — Hiroshima Station area; dinner, ~1.5 hours, ¥1,500–3,000 per person. Try Hiroshima-style layered okonomiyaki.
  5. Hiroshima Hondori — Downtown; evening, ~1 hour. Explore the central pedestrian arcade and nearby bars.

Morning to afternoon — Yudanaka to Hiroshima

Leave Yudanaka Station around 6:30–7:00am for the long rail day to Hiroshima. Allow a comfortable connection at Nagano Station, and keep lunch simple on the trains or at a station kiosk—this is not a day to risk a tight transfer. Reserve seats in advance, especially for the Nagano–Tokyo and Tokyo–Hiroshima legs, and use luggage-space reservations if any suitcase exceeds the shinkansen size limits. You will probably arrive at Hiroshima Station around 3:00–4:00pm; leave large bags at your accommodation or in station lockers before exploring.

Late afternoon — First taste of Hiroshima

Head straight into Hiroshima Station ekie, the station’s excellent dining and shopping complex, for an easy first meal. Look for Hiroshima specialties such as oysters, anago-meshi and local lemon drinks; it is also a convenient place to pick up snacks for tomorrow. Allow about an hour and roughly ¥1,000–2,500 per person. From the south side of the station, Shukkeien Garden is around a 15-minute walk, or a short taxi ride if you are tired. The garden usually closes around 5:00pm, with last admission earlier, so check the seasonal closing time before setting out; if you arrive too late, save it for another day rather than rushing.

Evening — Okonomiyaki and Hondori

For dinner, make your way back toward the station area for Okonomiyaki Kogetsu, where Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki is built in layers of cabbage, noodles, pork and egg rather than mixed together. Budget around ¥1,500–3,000 per person, and expect a wait at peak dinner time; arrive before 6:00pm if you want a smoother start. Afterwards, take the tram from Hiroshima Station toward the city centre—roughly 15 minutes—to Hiroshima Hondori. Wander the covered arcade and nearby side streets for an hour, with compact standing bars and izakaya around Nagarekawa if you still have energy. Keep tonight gentle after the seven-hour transfer; Hiroshima is best enjoyed at a slower pace.

Day 10 · Sun, Nov 1
Hiroshima, Hiroshima Prefecture

Hiroshima history and shrines

  1. Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum — Peace Memorial Park; morning, ~2 hours. Visit the essential museum documenting the atomic bombing and its aftermath.
  2. Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park — Naka Ward; late morning, ~1.5 hours. Walk between the Cenotaph, Peace Flame, and Children’s Peace Monument.
  3. Atomic Bomb Dome — Motoyasu River; midday, ~30 minutes. See the preserved ruin directly across the river.
  4. Shukkeien Garden — Near Hiroshima Station; afternoon, ~1.5 hours. Slow the pace with traditional landscapes and teahouses.
  5. Yakigaki no Hayashi — Hondori; dinner, ~1.5 hours, ¥2,000–4,000 per person. Sample Hiroshima oysters and regional seafood.

Morning — Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum

Start around 8:30am at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum in Peace Memorial Park, before the larger tour groups arrive. Allow about two hours: the East and Main Buildings present a difficult but essential account of the bombing, individual victims and Hiroshima’s postwar recovery. Admission is ¥200, and the museum generally opens at 7:30am; check the official schedule before leaving, as entry procedures and exhibitions can change. From Hiroshima Station, take a Hiroshima Electric Railway tram to Hondori or Fukuro-machi—roughly 15–20 minutes—then walk through the park.

Late Morning to Midday — Peace Memorial Park and Atomic Bomb Dome

After the museum, take a quiet 90-minute walk through Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. Follow the riverfront between the Cenotaph for the A-Bomb Victims, the Peace Flame and the Children’s Peace Monument; the open lawns and water make this a good place to pause rather than rush straight between monuments. Continue across toward the Atomic Bomb Dome, which is best viewed from the opposite riverbank first, where its ruined frame is reflected in the Motoyasu River. Allow around 30 minutes, and keep the visit contemplative—the area is a memorial site rather than a conventional attraction.

Afternoon — Shukkeien Garden

From the Dome, walk back toward Kamiyacho and take a tram or bus toward Hiroshima Station, then continue on foot to Shukkeien Garden; allow approximately 20–30 minutes in total. This compact Edo-period garden is a welcome change of pace, with ponds, arched bridges and carefully framed views of miniature hills. It is usually open from 9:00am to 5:00pm, with last entry around 4:30pm, and admission is about ¥260. Give yourself 90 minutes, including time for tea or a small sweet at one of the garden teahouses if open.

Evening — Yakigaki no Hayashi

Head back toward Hondori for dinner at Yakigaki no Hayashi, a reliable place to try Hiroshima oysters alongside local seafood. Order the grilled oysters or an oyster set, and consider adding kaki-no-dote-nabe if it is available seasonally; expect roughly ¥2,000–4,000 per person. The restaurant is an easy walk from Hondori Shopping Street, so arrive around 6:00pm and check the current closing time or reservation policy beforehand. After dinner, wander the covered arcades around Hondori and Ebisu-dori—a relaxed way to finish a weighty day without adding another formal sight.

Day 11 · Mon, Nov 2
Hiroshima, Hiroshima Prefecture

Hiroshima food and waterfront

  1. Miyajima ferry — Miyajimaguchi → Miyajima; morning, ~30 minutes. Take an early ferry to avoid the busiest crowds.
  2. Itsukushima Shrine — Miyajima; morning, ~1 hour. See the famous shrine and tidal gate in its island setting.
  3. Daisho-in — Miyajima; late morning, ~1.5 hours. Explore an atmospheric Buddhist temple with hillside views.
  4. Miyajima Ropeway — Momijidani; afternoon, ~2 hours. Ride toward Mount Misen for panoramic Seto Inland Sea scenery.
  5. Ueno — Miyajima; late afternoon, ~45 minutes, ¥1,000–2,000 per person. Try the island’s famous anago-meshi before returning.

Morning — Miyajima and Itsukushima Shrine

Leave Hiroshima around 7:30am and take the JR Sanyo Line from Hiroshima Station to Miyajimaguchi Station—about 25 minutes—then walk to the ferry terminal. The JR ferry and Miyajima Matsudai Kisen both take roughly 10 minutes across the Seto Inland Sea; use the JR ferry if you have a JR Pass, otherwise expect around ¥360 return. Aim for an early crossing, before the island’s main streets become crowded. At Itsukushima Shrine, allow about an hour to walk the vermilion corridors and see the great torii from the shore; tide times change the view significantly, so check the day’s tide chart before leaving Hiroshima. The shrine is generally open from around 6:30am, with admission about ¥300.

Walk uphill for roughly 15 minutes to Daisho-in, one of Miyajima’s most rewarding places and usually calmer than the shrine area. Give yourself 90 minutes to explore the lantern-filled halls, rows of Buddhist statues and hillside paths. Entry is free, though respectful clothing and quiet behavior are expected. For lunch, stay near the temple approach or descend toward Omotesando for oysters or anago-meshi; avoid filling up too heavily if you plan to try the local specialty at Ueno later.

Afternoon and late afternoon — Miyajima Ropeway and Ueno

From Daisho-in, walk through Momijidani Park to the Miyajima Ropeway station, allowing about 20 minutes. The ropeway journey to the upper slopes of Mount Misen takes around 20 minutes including the transfer, and you should allow roughly two hours for the ride, viewpoints and short walks. Return tickets are approximately ¥2,000, with the final descent usually before 5:00pm—check the operating schedule and weather, as services can be suspended in strong wind. The summit views across the Seto Inland Sea are excellent, but bring water and sensible shoes for the uneven paths.

Back near the ferry terminal, finish at Ueno for its famous anago-meshi, grilled conger eel served over rice. A meal is typically ¥1,000–2,000 per person; queues can build, so consider takeaway if the dining room is full. Afterward, take the ferry back to Miyajimaguchi and the JR train to Hiroshima, allowing about an hour door to door. Keep some time for a slow walk along Miyajima before boarding—the island is noticeably quieter once the day-trippers begin leaving.

Day 12 · Tue, Nov 3
Fukuoka, Fukuoka Prefecture

Travel to Fukuoka

Getting there from Hiroshima, Hiroshima Prefecture
Sanyo Shinkansen from Hiroshima to Hakata (about 1 hour, ¥5,000–6,000). Depart late morning, as planned, and leave luggage at your Fukuoka accommodation. Book via SmartEX or JR West Online Train Reservation.
  1. Sanyo Shinkansen — Hiroshima → Hakata; morning, ~1 hour. Take a late-morning train and leave luggage at your Fukuoka accommodation.
  2. Kushida Shrine — Hakata; afternoon, ~45 minutes. Visit one of Hakata’s oldest and most important shrines.
  3. Hakata Machiya Furusatokan — Hakata; afternoon, ~1 hour. Learn about traditional Hakata crafts and merchant life.
  4. Canal City Hakata — Hakata; late afternoon, ~1.5 hours. Explore the lively complex and its canal-side architecture.
  5. Hakata ramen restaurant — Nakasu; dinner, ~1 hour, ¥800–1,500 per person. Have your first bowl of local tonkotsu ramen.
  6. Nakasu riverside yatai — Nakasu; evening, ~1.5 hours. Try street-food stalls beside the river.

Late Morning — Hiroshima to Hakata

Take a late-morning Sanyo Shinkansen from Hiroshima Station to Hakata Station, allowing about an hour for the ride. Once you arrive, leave your luggage at your accommodation or use the station’s lockers; Hakata Station is a useful base, with coin lockers and the tourist information counter on hand if you need them. Grab a quick station snack if necessary, then walk or take the Fukuoka City Subway one stop to Kushida Shrine in the old Hakata district.

Afternoon — Old Hakata

Spend roughly 45 minutes at Kushida Shrine, one of Hakata’s most important shrines and the traditional home of the Hakata Gion Yamakasa festival. The grounds are compact but atmospheric, with a large festival float usually displayed inside; take a moment to wander through the surrounding lanes rather than rushing straight on. From the shrine, it is only a few minutes on foot to Hakata Machiya Furusatokan, open approximately 10:00am–6:00pm and generally around ¥200–300. This small museum is a good introduction to Hakata’s merchant houses, textiles, woodworking and everyday craft traditions. Continue on foot toward Canal City Hakata, about 10 minutes away, for a more modern contrast: allow an hour or so to explore the broad atriums, canal-side walkways and shops. The complex is typically open from around 10:00am until 9:00pm, though individual restaurants vary.

Evening — Tonkotsu and Nakasu yatai

For dinner, head across to Nakasu and settle in for a bowl of local tonkotsu ramen at Hakata Issou, a popular choice known for its rich, foamy pork-bone broth; expect roughly ¥800–1,500, with queues possible at peak dinner time. Afterward, walk along the Naka River toward the Nakasu riverside yatai, where the food stalls generally begin setting up from around 6:00pm and trade into the late evening, weather permitting. Choose a stall with a friendly atmosphere and order one or two small dishes—yakitori, gyoza, oden or mentaiko—rather than trying to make a full second dinner. Cash is still useful, seating is close-knit, and a short wait is normal; this is best enjoyed slowly with a beer or shochu while watching Nakasu light up around you.

Day 13 · Wed, Nov 4
Fukuoka, Fukuoka Prefecture

Fukuoka food and cafes

  1. Ohori Park — Chūō Ward; morning, ~1.5 hours. Walk the large lake and landscaped paths.
  2. Fukuoka Art Museum — Ohori Park; late morning, ~2 hours. See modern and traditional art in a relaxed setting.
  3. Yatai Hakata Ramen Tomochan — Tenjin; lunch, ~1 hour, ¥1,000–2,000 per person. Eat at a classic food stall when operating.
  4. ACROS Fukuoka Step Garden — Tenjin; afternoon, ~45 minutes. Climb the unusual terraced rooftop garden.
  5. Fukuoka Tower — Momochihama; sunset, ~1.5 hours. See the city and bay from the observation decks.
  6. Motsunabe restaurant in Tenjin — Tenjin; dinner, ~1.5 hours, ¥3,000–5,000 per person. Try Fukuoka’s rich offal hot pot.

Morning — Ohori Park and the Fukuoka Art Museum

Start around 9:00am at Ohori Park, one of Fukuoka’s best morning walks. Follow the broad lakeside path for a full circuit—roughly 2 km—and take your time around the small bridges, gardens and shaded sections. The park is free and open all day; allow about 90 minutes, with a coffee stop from a nearby café if you want to slow the pace. From Ohori Park, walk straight to the Fukuoka Art Museum, which opens at 9:30am and generally costs around ¥200–¥500 depending on the exhibition. Give it about two hours for its modern and traditional collections, including works connected with Fukuoka’s long history of trade with Asia. The museum is right beside the park, so there is no need to rush between the two.

Lunch and Afternoon — Tenjin rooftops

Take the subway from Ropponmatsu Station or Ohorikoen Station toward Tenjin, allowing about 15–20 minutes including the walk. For lunch, head to Yatai Hakata Ramen Tomochan, a compact classic food stall serving ramen and other quick dishes for roughly ¥1,000–2,000. Yatai hours can vary with weather, season and the stall’s own schedule, so treat this as a flexible late lunch rather than arriving too early; expect counter seating and a short wait at busy times. Afterwards, walk through central Tenjin to ACROS Fukuoka Step Garden. The terraced green roof is free to enter, although access can be restricted in poor weather or outside daytime hours. Climb the landscaped levels for around 45 minutes—the view becomes surprisingly open as you rise above the surrounding streets.

Sunset and Evening — Fukuoka Tower and motsunabe

From Tenjin, take the Kūkō Subway Line to Nishijin, then continue by bus or walk toward Momochihama; allow around 30–40 minutes door to door. Arrive at Fukuoka Tower around 60–90 minutes before sunset so you can see the city in daylight, watch the bay change colour and stay for the evening lights. The observation decks usually cost about ¥800–¥1,000, with final admission and sunset timings changing seasonally, so check the official schedule for the exact date. Return to Tenjin for dinner at a well-regarded motsunabe restaurant, such as Motsunabe Yamanaka Tenjin or Hakata Motsunabe Yamanaka Akasaka; reserve ahead, particularly for a Friday or Saturday, and budget ¥3,000–5,000 per person. Order the classic offal hot pot with garlic chives and cabbage, plus champon noodles at the end. Dress casually but expect a warm, garlicky meal—the perfect Fukuoka finish.

Day 14 · Thu, Nov 5
Fukuoka, Fukuoka Prefecture

Fukuoka bars and record shops

  1. Sumiyoshi Shrine — Hakata; morning, ~1 hour. Visit a peaceful shrine with distinctive ancient-style architecture.
  2. D&Department Fukuoka — Hakata; late morning, ~1 hour. Browse carefully selected Japanese design goods.
  3. Art Space・貘 — Tenjin; afternoon, ~1 hour. Explore a local gallery space if an exhibition is running.
  4. Kego Shrine — Tenjin; afternoon, ~45 minutes. Stop at this compact shrine in the middle of the shopping district.
  5. MUSIC KAN — Tenjin; late afternoon, ~1.5 hours. Browse Fukuoka’s independent record selection.
  6. The Voodoo Lounge — Tenjin; night, ~2 hours. Catch live music or a DJ event; verify the schedule beforehand.

Morning — Sumiyoshi Shrine

Start around 9:00am at Sumiyoshi Shrine, about a 15-minute walk south of Hakata Station or a short taxi ride. This is one of Fukuoka’s oldest shrines, with an unusually simple, ancient-style honden that predates the more familiar ornate shrine architecture. Allow about an hour to wander through the pine-lined grounds, including the small auxiliary shrines and the distinctive red-and-white structures. Entry is free, and the grounds are generally open from early morning. Keep the visit quiet and unhurried; it is still an active local place of worship rather than just a sightseeing stop.

Late Morning — D&Department Fukuoka

Walk back toward Hakata Station and spend around an hour at D&Department Fukuoka, located inside Hakata Hankyu. The shop focuses on well-made, long-lasting Japanese goods—regional ceramics, kitchenware, stationery, furniture and everyday objects with a strong design story. It is a good place to find souvenirs that feel less generic than airport or department-store gifts. Check the current department-store hours before setting out, but it generally opens around 10:00am; allow roughly ¥1,000–5,000 for smaller purchases. From here, take the subway from Hakata to Tenjin—about 10 minutes—or use a taxi if you have shopping bags.

Afternoon — Art Space・貘, Kego Shrine and MUSIC KAN

After lunch in Tenjin, visit Art Space・貘, a small independent gallery known for contemporary exhibitions and local artists. Allow an hour if an exhibition is running, but check its social media or website first because opening days and hours can vary. Continue on foot toward Kego Shrine, only about 10 minutes away. Tucked behind the busy shopping streets, this compact shrine makes a pleasant contrast to Tenjin’s department stores and cafés; 30–45 minutes is enough, and admission is free. Keep the afternoon flexible for browsing nearby Daimyo and Imaizumi, where side streets are packed with clothing shops, coffee counters and small bars.

Finish the record-shopping portion at MUSIC KAN, allowing a generous 90 minutes. This is the kind of shop where it pays to dig rather than rush—look through the Japanese pop, city pop, jazz and second-hand sections, and ask staff if you are chasing a particular sound. Prices vary widely, from a few hundred yen for inexpensive finds to several thousand yen for desirable pressings. In November, sunset is around 5:20pm, so this late-afternoon slot gives you enough daylight for wandering before heading into the evening.

Evening — The Voodoo Lounge

Have an early dinner around Tenjin—nearby Daimyo is particularly easy for casual yakitori, izakaya and late ramen—then head to The Voodoo Lounge for the night. Check the event listing before you go, as the venue alternates between live bands, DJs and themed parties; door prices commonly fall around ¥2,000–4,000 depending on the booking, with drinks extra. Arrive around 8:00–8:30pm if you want to settle in before the main act, or later if it is a DJ-focused night. The venue is central and easy to reach on foot from Tenjin Station, but keep a little cash handy and check the last subway times if you are not planning to stay late.

Day 15 · Fri, Nov 6
Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture

Travel to Kyoto

Getting there from Fukuoka, Fukuoka Prefecture
Sanyo Shinkansen from Hakata to Kyoto (about 2 hours 45 minutes–3 hours, ¥15,000–16,000). Depart around 8:00–9:00 AM for a relaxed afternoon arrival. Book via SmartEX or JR West Online Train Reservation; reserve luggage space if carrying oversized bags.
  1. Sanyo Shinkansen — Hakata → Kyoto; morning, ~3 hours. Travel after breakfast and leave luggage at your Kyoto accommodation.
  2. Nishiki Market — Downtown Kyoto; afternoon, ~1.5 hours. Sample pickles, seafood, sweets, and Kyoto specialties.
  3. Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine — Nishiki; afternoon, ~30 minutes. Visit the small shrine at the market’s eastern end.
  4. Pontocho Alley — Kamo River; evening, ~1 hour. Walk Kyoto’s atmospheric dining lane.
  5. Ippudo Nishikikoji — Downtown Kyoto; dinner, ~1 hour, ¥1,000–2,000 per person. Have a convenient bowl of ramen.
  6. Kiyamachi — Downtown Kyoto; evening, ~1.5 hours. Explore the canal-side bars and nightlife streets.

Morning — Hakata to Kyoto

Have breakfast near Hakata Station before taking a morning Sanyo Shinkansen to Kyoto. The fastest services take just under three hours, so an 8:00–9:00am departure gets you into Kyoto around lunchtime. On arrival, leave your bags at your accommodation or use station lockers; avoid carrying them through the narrow downtown streets. If you have oversized luggage, reserve a seat with luggage space in advance.

Afternoon — Nishiki Market and Nishiki Tenmangu

Head from Kyoto Station to Shijo on the Karasuma Subway Line, then walk east toward Nishiki Market. Allow about 90 minutes to wander the covered arcade, sampling Kyoto pickles, grilled seafood, yuba, soy-milk doughnuts and seasonal sweets. It is busiest from late morning onward, so keep moving rather than trying to sit down at every stall; many vendors are cash-focused, and eating while walking is generally discouraged, so finish food beside the stall where you bought it. Most shops operate roughly 10:00am–5:00 or 6:00pm, though individual hours vary.

At the market’s eastern end, spend 20–30 minutes at Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine, a compact, lively shrine tucked among the shops. Its lantern-lined approach feels almost theatrical after the market’s bustle, and it is a good place to pause before continuing toward the river. From here, it is about a 15-minute walk through Teramachi and Shinkyogoku, two covered shopping arcades with useful cafés and small specialty stores.

Evening — Pontocho, ramen and Kiyamachi

As daylight fades, walk south toward Pontocho Alley and stroll its narrow lane between Shijo and Sanjo. The traditional wooden facades are atmospheric, but most restaurants here are expensive; enjoy the walk and look for a menu before committing. For dinner, Ippudo Nishikikoji is the practical choice nearby, serving dependable tonkotsu ramen for around ¥1,000–2,000 per person. Expect a queue at peak dinner time, though it usually moves steadily.

Afterward, cross toward Kiyamachi, where the canal-side streets open into Kyoto’s more relaxed nightlife area. Browse the small bars around Kiyamachi-dori and Sanjo, or settle into a compact cocktail or sake bar for the evening. The area is easy to explore on foot, but Kyoto’s buses become less useful late at night; if you are staying outside central Kyoto, plan on walking to Shijo or Sanjo Keihan for the train, or budget roughly ¥1,000–2,000 for a taxi back.

Day 16 · Sat, Nov 7
Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture

Kyoto shrines and matcha

  1. Fushimi Inari Taisha — Fushimi; early morning, ~2.5 hours. Walk through the iconic vermilion torii before crowds build.
  2. Tofuku-ji — Fushimi; late morning, ~1.5 hours. See one of Kyoto’s major Zen temples and gardens.
  3. Uji Byodo-in — Uji; afternoon, ~2 hours. Visit the celebrated Phoenix Hall and riverside town.
  4. Nakamura Tokichi Honten — Uji; late afternoon, ~1 hour, ¥1,000–2,500 per person. Enjoy excellent Uji matcha desserts.
  5. Gion Shirakawa — Gion; evening, ~1 hour. Stroll traditional lanes and willow-lined waterways.
  6. Gion Kappa — Gion; dinner, ~1.5 hours, ¥4,000–7,000 per person. Eat seasonal Japanese dishes in a lively setting.

Early Morning — Fushimi Inari Taisha

Leave central Kyoto around 6:30am and take the JR Nara Line from Kyoto Station to Inari Station—the shrine entrance is directly opposite. Fushimi Inari Taisha is open around the clock and free, so arriving early is the best way to experience the lower torii tunnels before the tour groups and souvenir stalls get busy. Allow about 2½ hours: walk through the famous Senbon Torii, then continue uphill toward the Yotsutsuji viewpoint if your legs are willing. Comfortable shoes are essential, and bring water; the full mountain circuit takes several hours, but you do not need to complete it.

Late Morning to Afternoon — Tofuku-ji and Uji

Walk roughly 15 minutes from Fushimi Inari Taisha to Tofuku-ji, or take the train one stop to Tofukuji Station. Allow around 90 minutes for the temple grounds, particularly the Tsutenkyo Bridge and the Hojo garden. The temple generally opens from 9:00am, with admission commonly around ¥500–¥1,000 depending on the garden or seasonal area; autumn foliage can make this one of Kyoto’s busiest stops, so keep moving toward the quieter subtemples if the bridge is crowded. From Tofukuji Station, take the JR Nara Line south to Uji Station, about 20 minutes. Explore Byodo-in for roughly two hours, including the riverside approach and Phoenix Hall; the grounds usually open from 8:30am, while the interior tour of Phoenix Hall requires a separate timed ticket and may sell out. Admission is typically around ¥700, with an additional fee for the interior visit.

Late Afternoon to Evening — Matcha, Gion Shirakawa and Dinner

After Byodo-in, walk through Uji’s old shopping streets to Nakamura Tokichi Honten, a historic tea shop near Uji Station. Put your name down on arrival if there is a queue—late afternoon is usually easier than lunchtime—and expect ¥1,000–2,500 per person for matcha parfaits, jelly, soba or tea. From Uji, take the JR Nara Line back toward Kyoto, then continue to Gion-Shijo by Keihan Railway; allow about 35–45 minutes overall. Finish with an unhurried walk through Gion Shirakawa, where willow trees, stone lanes and the Shirakawa canal are especially atmospheric after dusk. For dinner, Gion Kappa makes a good lively contrast to the polished streets: expect seasonal Japanese cooking at roughly ¥4,000–7,000 per person, and reserve ahead if possible. Keep voices low around residential lanes, and remember that the area is for strolling—not geisha spotting or photography without permission.

Day 17 · Sun, Nov 8
Osaka, Osaka Prefecture

Travel to Osaka

Getting there from Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture
JR Special Rapid Service from Kyoto Station to Osaka Station (about 30 minutes, ¥580). Depart in the morning; no advance booking is needed. Pay with an IC card such as ICOCA or Suica.
  1. JR Special Rapid Service — Kyoto → Osaka; morning, ~30 minutes. Make the short transfer and drop luggage at your Osaka accommodation.
  2. Osaka Castle Park — Chūō Ward; late morning, ~2 hours. Walk the grounds and visit the castle museum.
  3. Osaka Museum of History — Chūō Ward; afternoon, ~1.5 hours. Get a clear overview of Osaka’s development.
  4. Kuromon Ichiba Market — Nippombashi; late afternoon, ~1.5 hours. Browse seafood, fruit, and street-food stalls.
  5. Dotonbori — Namba; evening, ~1.5 hours. See the neon canalfront and famous food signs.
  6. Namba Grand Kagetsu — Namba; night, ~2 hours. Watch manzai and other traditional Japanese comedy.

Morning — Kyoto to Osaka and Osaka Castle Park

Take the JR Special Rapid Service from Kyoto Station to Osaka Station—about 30 minutes, ¥580, with an IC card such as Suica or ICOCA. From Osaka Station, continue on the Osaka Loop Line to Morinomiya Station, then leave your luggage at your accommodation or in station lockers before heading into Osaka Castle Park. Allow around two hours for the broad moats, stone walls and garden paths; the castle grounds are free, while Osaka Castle Museum costs roughly ¥1,200 and generally opens from 9:00am to 5:00pm, with last entry around 4:30pm. The museum is useful for the historical overview, but the outdoor approach and views from the top are the more enjoyable parts of the visit.

Afternoon — Osaka’s history, then Kuromon Ichiba Market

Walk or take the Osaka Metro from Morinomiya to Tanimachi Yonchōme, where the Osaka Museum of History sits opposite the castle park. Spend about 90 minutes following Osaka from its early capital-city period through its merchant and industrial eras; the upper floors also give you a particularly good elevated view back toward the castle. Admission is usually around ¥600, and the museum is generally open 9:30am–5:00pm, closed Tuesdays. From there, take the Tanimachi Line to Tanimachi Kyūchōme, change to the Sennichimae Line for Nippombashi, and walk a few minutes to Kuromon Ichiba Market. Arrive in the late afternoon, when it is still lively but less crowded than lunchtime, and browse grilled seafood, fruit, tamagoyaki and small sweets rather than trying to make this a full sit-down meal.

Evening — Dotonbori and comedy at Namba Grand Kagetsu

From Kuromon Ichiba Market, walk roughly 10 minutes south-west through Nippombashi to Dotonbori. Take the canal-side promenade slowly, crossing toward Ebisu Bridge for the classic neon view, then wander the smaller lanes around Hozenji Yokocho before the crowds thicken. For dinner, keep it casual with takoyaki or okonomiyaki, or choose a quieter counter away from the main signs; Dotonbori’s most famous spots often have long queues and tourist pricing. Finish at Namba Grand Kagetsu, beside Namba Parks, for an evening performance of manzai and other Japanese comedy. Shows commonly run for around two hours, but schedules and ticket prices vary, so check the official timetable and book ahead if possible. It is performed primarily in Japanese, yet the comic timing, audience energy and physical style still make it a fun first-night introduction to Osaka.

Day 18 · Mon, Nov 9
Osaka, Osaka Prefecture

Osaka food and historic districts

  1. Shitenno-ji — Tennoji; morning, ~1.5 hours. Visit one of Japan’s oldest Buddhist temple complexes.
  2. Abeno Harukas — Tennoji; late morning, ~1.5 hours. Take in broad Osaka views from the observatory.
  3. Harukas 300 Cafe — Tennoji; lunch, ~1 hour, ¥1,000–2,000 per person. Eat with a city panorama.
  4. Hozenji Yokocho — Namba; afternoon, ~1 hour. Wander a preserved alley and see moss-covered Hozenji.
  5. Mizuno — Dotonbori; dinner, ~1.5 hours, ¥2,000–4,000 per person. Try a highly regarded Osaka okonomiyaki restaurant.
  6. Ura-Namba — Namba; evening, ~2 hours. Explore dense backstreets of izakayas and standing bars.

Morning — Shitenno-ji

Start around 9:00am at Shitenno-ji, reached from Tennoji Station in roughly 10 minutes on foot, or via Shitennoji-mae Yuhigaoka Station on the Tanimachi Line. This is one of Japan’s oldest Buddhist temple complexes, and the broad grounds feel notably calmer than central Namba. Allow about 90 minutes for the five-storey pagoda, inner precinct and quiet surrounding lanes. The outer grounds are generally free; the central garden and inner area usually cost around ¥300–500, with hours commonly beginning around 8:30am—check the official site if a special event is running. From the temple, walk or take the Tanimachi Line north toward Abeno Harukas, allowing 15–20 minutes.

Late Morning and Lunch — Abeno Harukas and Harukas 300 Cafe

Head into Abeno Harukas, directly above Tennoji Station, and take the lift to the Harukas 300 observatory. Give yourself about 90 minutes: the glass-sided escalators and three observation floors offer an excellent sense of Osaka’s scale, from the dense southern wards to the distant mountains. Standard admission is roughly ¥2,000, and daytime visibility is usually clearest before the afternoon haze. Have lunch at Harukas 300 Cafe while you are there—budget ¥1,000–2,000 per person for drinks, light meals or sweets with the panorama. If queues form for the observatory, buy a timed ticket and browse the department-store floors rather than standing in the lobby.

Afternoon and Evening — Hozenji Yokocho, Mizuno and Ura-Namba

From Tennoji, take the Midosuji Line to Namba—about six minutes—then walk through Hozenji Yokocho, a compact stone-paved alley of small restaurants and lanterns. Visit Hozenji and splash water over the moss-covered Fudo Myoo statue; the temple is free and open throughout the day, and the atmosphere becomes especially good as the lights come on. Continue toward Dotonbori for dinner at Mizuno, one of Osaka’s best-known okonomiyaki specialists. Expect around ¥2,000–4,000 per person, but arrive before peak dinner time or be prepared to queue; the restaurant is small and popular. Afterward, spend the evening in Ura-Namba, wandering the lanes east of Namba Grand Kagetsu toward Sennichimae. This is where Osaka feels most local: start with a standing bar or kushikatsu counter, then follow whichever narrow doorway has the liveliest room. Keep cash handy, check whether a small table charge applies, and use the Namba stations for the easy return to your accommodation.

Day 19 · Tue, Nov 10
Osaka, Osaka Prefecture

Osaka cars, records and nightlife

  1. Naniwa Mobility Showroom — Osaka Bay area; morning, ~1.5 hours. Browse current and historic automotive displays where available.
  2. Tempozan Ferris Wheel — Osaka Bay; midday, ~45 minutes. See the harbor and city from above.
  3. Den Den Town — Nippombashi; afternoon, ~2 hours. Explore electronics, games, anime, and hobby shops.
  4. Rare Groove — Nippombashi; late afternoon, ~1.5 hours. Dig through jazz, soul, funk, and other vinyl.
  5. Bar Nayuta — Shinsaibashi; evening, ~1.5 hours, ¥2,000–4,000 per person. Enjoy inventive cocktails in a hidden-style bar.
  6. Joule — Shinsaibashi; late night, ~3 hours. Dance at a long-running club, checking the event calendar first.

Morning — Cars in Osaka Bay

Start around 9:30am and take the Osaka Metro Chuo Line from central Osaka to Osakako Station, then walk toward the Naniwa Mobility Showroom. Allow about 1½ hours to browse the current and historic automotive displays; exact exhibits and opening hours can change, so check the official listing before leaving. The Osaka Bay area is spacious and fairly quiet on weekday mornings, making this a good time to take your time with the cars before the afternoon crowds. Budget roughly ¥1,000–2,000 for admission if a special exhibition is running. Afterwards, walk a few minutes to the Tempozan Ferris Wheel—a 45-minute ride is plenty—and look across the port toward the city and, on a clear day, Awaji Island. Tickets are usually around ¥900, with the best views in the cabin furthest from the entrance queue.

Afternoon — Nippombashi’s hobby and record stores

Have a quick lunch around Tempozan Marketplace or near Osakako Station, then take the Chuo Line east to Hommachi and change for Nippombashi, allowing roughly 30 minutes door to door. Spend about two hours wandering Den Den Town, especially along Nipponbashi-suji and the smaller side streets around Ota Road. This is Osaka’s best district for electronics, games, model kits, cameras and obscure hobby finds; shops often open from 10:00 or 11:00am and close around 7:00–8:00pm. Keep an eye on your luggage, and bring a reusable bag—small purchases accumulate quickly. In the late afternoon, settle into Rare Groove, one of the area’s worthwhile stops for jazz, soul, funk and other vinyl. Allow 90 minutes to dig properly, and check its current opening time before going, as independent record shops may keep irregular hours.

Evening — Cocktails and dancing in Shinsaibashi

From Nippombashi, walk north through Higashi-Shinsaibashi or take the Osaka Metro Sakaisuji Line one stop to Nagasaki, then continue on foot toward Shinsaibashi; the walk is only about 15–20 minutes and gives you a good look at the neon-lit side streets of Dotonbori without needing another long train ride. Have dinner before drinks—late-night club food is convenient but rarely memorable—then head to Bar Nayuta for inventive cocktails in its deliberately hidden, intimate setting. Expect around ¥2,000–4,000 per person, and allow 1½ hours; it is a small bar, so a short wait is possible. Continue to Joule later in the evening for dancing, ideally arriving after 11:00pm when the atmosphere is more lively. Check the event calendar and entry policy on the day, bring photo ID, and keep your transport card and phone secure. Osaka trains generally finish around midnight, so if the night runs beyond the final service, plan on a taxi or staying out until the first trains around 5:00am.

Day 20 · Wed, Nov 11
Ueno, Tokyo

Travel to Ueno

Getting there from Osaka, Osaka Prefecture
Tokaido Shinkansen from Shin-Osaka to Tokyo, then JR Yamanote or Ueno-Tokyo Line to Ueno (about 2 hours 45 minutes–3 hours, ¥14,000–15,000). Depart around 8:00–9:00 AM to arrive before afternoon activities. Book via SmartEX; reserve oversized-baggage space when necessary.
  1. Tokaido Shinkansen — Shin-Osaka → Tokyo; morning, ~2.5 hours. Travel to Tokyo and transfer to Ueno by local train.
  2. Ameyoko Shopping Street — Ueno; afternoon, ~1.5 hours. Browse market stalls, snacks, and inexpensive clothing.
  3. Kappabashi Coffee & Sweets — Asakusa; late afternoon, ~1 hour, ¥800–1,500 per person. Take a café break near the kitchenware district.
  4. Senso-ji — Asakusa; evening, ~1.5 hours. See Tokyo’s most famous temple after the daytime crowds thin.
  5. Asakusa Yokocho — Asakusa; dinner, ~1.5 hours, ¥2,000–4,000 per person. Sample regional Japanese dishes in a lively food hall.

Morning to Early Afternoon — Osaka to Ueno

Take a morning Tokaido Shinkansen from Shin-Osaka Station to Tokyo Station, allowing roughly 2½ hours, then continue to Ueno Station on the JR Yamanote Line or Ueno-Tokyo Line. Depart around 8:00–9:00am so you reach Ueno around lunchtime. After checking in or leaving bags at your accommodation, keep lunch easy near the station—this afternoon works best without a fixed restaurant booking. If you have oversized luggage, reserve a dedicated baggage-space seat when booking through SmartEX.

Afternoon — Ameyoko Shopping Street

Spend about 1½ hours wandering Ameyoko Shopping Street, the lively market strip running between Ueno Station and Okachimachi Station. Browse dried seafood, fruit, cosmetics, inexpensive clothing and small food stalls; it is a good place to graze rather than sit down for a formal meal. Look down the side lanes beneath the railway tracks as well—many of the more characterful izakaya and snack counters are tucked away there. Most shops are open from late morning into the evening, though individual stalls vary, and cash is still useful. From Ameyoko, walk or take the Ginza Line from Ueno-Hirokoji Station towards Asakusa, with the journey taking around 15–20 minutes.

Late Afternoon and Evening — Kappabashi, Senso-ji and Asakusa Yokocho

Head first to the Kappabashi kitchenware district for a café break, allowing about an hour and ¥800–1,500 per person. The main shopping streets are quieter later in the day, so enjoy the shop-window displays of restaurant crockery, knives, plastic food samples and enormous specialist cooking tools while stopping at whichever coffee-and-sweets place has space. Be aware that many independent kitchenware shops close around 5:00–6:00pm, so focus on browsing before settling in for coffee. A 10-minute walk east brings you to Senso-ji; by early evening the approach around Nakamise-dori is far less crowded, while the illuminated Kaminarimon gate and temple buildings make this one of the best times to visit. Finish at Asakusa Yokocho, where a lively food hall atmosphere and regional Japanese dishes make an easy first dinner in the Ueno area—budget ¥2,000–4,000 per person, and expect roughly 1½ hours.

Day 21 · Thu, Nov 12
Ueno, Tokyo

Ueno museums and shrines

  1. Tokyo National Museum — Ueno Park; morning, ~3 hours. See Japan’s premier collection of art and archaeological treasures.
  2. Ueno Park — Ueno; midday, ~1 hour. Rest among temples, ponds, and museum gardens.
  3. Kaneiji Temple — Ueno; afternoon, ~45 minutes. Visit remnants of the former powerful Kaneiji temple complex.
  4. National Museum of Nature and Science — Ueno; afternoon, ~2 hours. Explore Japanese natural history and scientific exhibits.
  5. Izuei Honten — Ueno; dinner, ~1.5 hours, ¥3,000–6,000 per person. Try traditional eel dishes near the park.

Morning — Tokyo National Museum

Start around 9:30am at the Tokyo National Museum, entering from the Ueno Park side before the galleries become crowded. Allow about three hours for the Japanese Gallery, Toyokan, and whichever special exhibition is running; the collection ranges from samurai armour and Buddhist sculpture to ceramics, screens, and archaeological treasures. General admission is usually around ¥1,000, with special exhibitions costing extra. Check the official exhibition schedule before going, as some buildings close on different days and the museum is commonly closed on Mondays.

Midday — Ueno Park and Kaneiji Temple

After the museum, take a slow walk through Ueno Park for about an hour rather than rushing straight to lunch. Wander past Shinobazuno Pond, the small temple precincts and the park’s quieter eastern paths; convenience-store snacks or a light meal from the station area are easy if you want to keep the afternoon moving. Then walk north toward Kaneiji Temple, roughly 15 minutes from the museum. The present temple is only a fragment of the enormous Edo-period complex that once controlled much of this district, so it is best appreciated for its quiet residential setting and surviving historical atmosphere. Keep voices low—the grounds are still an active place of worship.

Afternoon — National Museum of Nature and Science

Continue on foot back toward the central park area for the National Museum of Nature and Science, allowing around two hours. The huge blue whale outside is a useful landmark, while inside you can dip into Japanese wildlife, geology, dinosaurs, space and the development of science in Japan. General admission is typically about ¥630, and the museum is usually open from 9:00am to 5:00pm, with last entry before closing; leave enough time to enter by roughly 2:30pm. Afterward, stroll through Ameyoko or the lanes around Ueno Station before dinner—this is a good time to browse casually rather than add another major sight.

Evening — Izuei Honten

Have dinner at Izuei Honten, a long-established eel restaurant close to the park. Order unaju or unadon—grilled eel glazed with a sweet-savory tare over rice—and expect roughly ¥3,000–6,000 per person depending on the set and eel portion. Dinner around 6:00–6:30pm is sensible, particularly if you prefer a quieter table; traditional eel preparation can take a little time, so settle in rather than treating it as a quick meal. From the park it is an easy walk toward Ueno Station, and the surrounding lanes are convenient for an unplanned drink afterward.

Day 22 · Fri, Nov 13
Ueno, Tokyo

Ueno markets and record shopping

  1. Yanaka Cemetery — Yanaka; morning, ~1 hour. Walk quiet historic lanes and temple-lined paths.
  2. Asakura Museum of Sculpture — Yanaka; late morning, ~1.5 hours. See the former home and studio of sculptor Fumio Asakura.
  3. Nippori Textile Town — Nippori; afternoon, ~1.5 hours. Browse fabrics, craft materials, and small specialist shops.
  4. Face Records — Shibuya; late afternoon, ~1.5 hours. Search a strong selection of used records.
  5. Uobei Shibuya Dogenzaka — Shibuya; dinner, ~1 hour, ¥1,000–2,500 per person. Enjoy fast, affordable conveyor-belt sushi.
  6. Nonbei Yokocho — Shibuya; evening, ~1.5 hours. Finish with tiny bars beneath the railway tracks.

Morning — Yanaka Cemetery

Start around 9:00am at Yanaka Cemetery, reached from Nippori Station in about five minutes on foot. The cemetery is free and open all day; allow roughly an hour to wander its broad central avenue and quieter temple-lined lanes. It is one of Tokyo’s most atmospheric areas, with old stone graves, small Buddhist temples and residential streets that feel far removed from the glass-and-neon city. Keep voices low and avoid photographing private graves. From the cemetery, walk about 10 minutes to the Asakura Museum of Sculpture, the former home and studio of sculptor Fumio Asakura. Allow 60–90 minutes for the sculpture-filled rooms, courtyard garden and rooftop garden. It is typically open 9:30am–4:30pm, closed on Mondays, with admission around ¥500–¥600; check the museum’s schedule before setting out, as some rooms may close for conservation.

Afternoon — Nippori Textile Town

Have lunch in Yanaka or Nippori before spending the early afternoon at Nippori Textile Town, about a 15-minute walk from the museum or a short ride from Nippori Station. The shops are concentrated along Nippori Chuo-dori, where you can browse bolts of Japanese cotton, denim, linen, kimono fabrics, buttons and sewing notions. Tomato is the essential stop for sheer scale and bargain remnants, while smaller specialist shops are better for distinctive fabrics and craft supplies. Most stores open around 10:00am and close between 5:00pm and 6:00pm, with some closed on Sundays; allow about 90 minutes and bring a foldable tote if you are tempted by fabric offcuts. When finished, take the JR Yamanote Line from Nippori Station to Shibuya Station—roughly 30 minutes—and leave a little time for the busy transfer and station exits.

Late Afternoon and Evening — Face Records, sushi and Nonbei Yokocho

Head to Face Records Shibuya in the Dogenzaka area for a focused used-record browse, allowing around 90 minutes. It is especially good for soul, jazz, funk and Japanese pressings, and the staff are generally happy to help with condition or catalogue questions. Opening hours are usually around midday to 8:00pm, but verify on the day. For dinner, walk to Uobei Shibuya Dogenzaka, where tablet-ordered sushi arrives quickly on individual tracks; expect about ¥1,000–¥2,500 per person, and avoid the busiest 7:00–8:00pm window if you dislike queues. Finish at Nonbei Yokocho, the tiny bar alley beneath the railway tracks near Shibuya Station. The cramped counters are best approached casually—choose a bar with an inviting atmosphere, order a drink and one small dish, and expect many places to have a seating charge of roughly ¥300–¥1,000. Cash is still useful, and the bars are small enough that one or two stops makes a complete evening.

Day 23 · Sat, Nov 14
Ueno, Tokyo

Tokyo cafes and final nightlife

  1. Kiyosumi Gardens — Koto Ward; morning, ~1.5 hours. Enjoy a peaceful stroll around ponds and stones.
  2. Kiyosumi Shirakawa coffee district — Kiyosumi; late morning, ~1 hour, ¥700–1,500 per person. Visit a specialty coffee shop in Tokyo’s café neighborhood.
  3. Mori Art Museum — Roppongi; afternoon, ~2 hours. See a major contemporary exhibition and city views.
  4. Tokyo City View — Roppongi Hills; late afternoon, ~1 hour. Take in a final panoramic view of Tokyo.
  5. Gonpachi Nishi-Azabu — Nishi-Azabu; dinner, ~1.5 hours, ¥4,000–7,000 per person. Eat soba, yakitori, and Japanese comfort dishes.
  6. Sound Museum Vision — Shibuya; late night, ~3 hours. End the Tokyo stay with club music; check the event schedule.

Morning — Kiyosumi Gardens

Start around 9:00am at Kiyosumi Gardens, one of eastern Tokyo’s loveliest quiet corners. The landscaped pond, stepping stones and carefully placed rocks make this feel more like a private daimyo garden than a city park. Allow about 90 minutes, taking the path slowly around the water and pausing at the small tea pavilion. Admission is usually around ¥150, and the garden generally opens from 9:00am; autumn colours may just be beginning in mid-November, but the garden is attractive even before the foliage peaks.

Walk or take the Tokyo Metro Hanzomon Line one stop from Kiyosumi-shirakawa Station into the surrounding coffee district. Spend late morning wandering the low-rise streets around Kiyosumi Shirakawa, where converted warehouses and small roasteries give the neighbourhood its distinctive feel. Choose a specialty coffee shop such as Arise Coffee Roasters or iki ESPRESSO—expect roughly ¥700–1,500 per person. These are compact, popular places, so treat the hour as a relaxed coffee stop rather than planning a full brunch.

Afternoon — Mori Art Museum and Tokyo City View

From Kiyosumi-shirakawa Station, take the Hanzomon Line to Omote-sando, change to the Ginza Line for Aoyama-itchome, then continue on the Oedo Line to Roppongi—allow about 30 minutes. Have a light lunch around Roppongi Hills before visiting the Mori Art Museum. Allow around two hours for the current contemporary exhibition; admission commonly falls around ¥2,000–2,500, though the exact price depends on the exhibition and combination tickets. Check the official schedule before setting out, as closing days and final entry times vary.

Stay within Roppongi Hills for Tokyo City View in the late afternoon. The indoor observation deck is useful in November, when the air can turn chilly, and the sunset-to-evening transition is particularly good: Tokyo’s towers gradually light up while Mount Fuji may appear on a clear day. Allow about an hour and check whether the rooftop Sky Deck is open, since weather and maintenance can affect access. Reserve timed entry if offered; sunset slots are the ones most likely to fill.

Evening — Gonpachi Nishi-Azabu and Sound Museum Vision

Walk or take a short taxi from Roppongi Hills to Gonpachi Nishi-Azabu, allowing roughly 10–15 minutes. The restaurant’s timber interior and lantern-lit atmosphere are theatrical without requiring a formal dinner, and the menu suits a final Tokyo evening: order a few yakitori, handmade soba and seasonal small plates rather than trying to eat everything at once. Budget around ¥4,000–7,000 per person, and reserve ahead for dinner, especially if you want a table at the more atmospheric times.

After dinner, take a taxi to Shibuya—usually 10–15 minutes depending on traffic—or walk downhill toward Ebisu and continue by train if you prefer. Finish at Sound Museum Vision, allowing around three hours for the club. Check the event listing before going, as music style, opening time, entry price and dress expectations vary by night; late events commonly begin around 10:00pm, with admission often roughly ¥2,000–4,000. Carry photo ID, avoid arriving with large luggage, and keep your final Ueno train plan in mind: if you stay until closing, a taxi is the practical option, while late-night trains will not run continuously.

Day 24 · Sun, Nov 15
Narita, Chiba Prefecture

Travel to Narita

Getting there from Ueno, Tokyo
Keisei Skyliner from Keisei-Ueno to Narita Airport (about 45–50 minutes, ¥2,580). Depart with enough margin for the planned Narita sightseeing and any airport check-in needs. Buy tickets via Keisei’s website, Klook, or at Keisei-Ueno Station.
  1. Keisei Skyliner — Ueno → Narita; morning, ~45 minutes. Make the fast transfer and check in or leave luggage at your hotel.
  2. Naritasan Shinshoji Temple — Narita; late morning, ~2 hours. Explore the extensive temple grounds and pagoda.
  3. Naritasan Park — Behind Shinshoji; midday, ~1 hour. Walk the temple’s landscaped ponds and wooded paths.
  4. Kawatoyo Honten — Narita Omotesando; lunch, ~1.5 hours, ¥2,500–4,500 per person. Try freshly prepared unagi along the historic approach.
  5. Naritasan Omotesando — Narita; afternoon, ~1.5 hours. Shop for senbei, pickles, crafts, and souvenirs.
  6. Boso no Mura — Sakae; late afternoon, ~2.5 hours. Explore reconstructed Edo-period streets if opening times and transport suit your schedule.

Morning — Ueno to Narita and Naritasan Shinshoji Temple

Take the Keisei Skyliner from Keisei-Ueno to Narita—about 45–50 minutes and ¥2,580—and aim to leave around 8:00am. Note that the Skyliner arrives at Narita Station, not the airport; the temple is a pleasant 15–20-minute walk from there. If your hotel is closer to the airport, leave your bags at the hotel first, but otherwise use station lockers and continue straight into town. Walk down Naritasan Omotesando to Naritasan Shinshoji Temple, allowing around two hours for the pagoda, atmospheric gates and large collection of halls. The temple grounds are free and open from early morning, while some interior areas charge modest admission fees.

Midday — Naritasan Park and unagi lunch

Behind the temple, spend about an hour in Naritasan Park, where wooded paths, ponds and small bridges provide a welcome change from the busy approach street. It is especially good in autumn, when the maples begin adding colour, though the extent of the display varies each year. Return to Naritasan Omotesando for lunch at Kawatoyo Honten, one of Narita’s classic unagi restaurants. The eel is prepared and grilled in full view, and a typical lunch costs ¥2,500–4,500 per person. Queues are common, so take a number if offered and expect the meal to take around 1½ hours rather than rushing through it.

Afternoon — Naritasan Omotesando and Boso no Mura

After lunch, wander the remaining length of Naritasan Omotesando, browsing senbei, pickles, local sweets, kitchenware and small traditional crafts. It is more enjoyable as a slow, snack-focused walk than a dedicated shopping mission. If you still have energy and the timetable works, take a taxi or local bus toward Boso no Mura in Sakae for roughly 2½ hours among reconstructed Edo-period streets, farmhouses and craft workshops. Check the official calendar before committing: it is generally closed on Mondays, opening hours are usually around 9:00am–4:30pm, and the bus connections are infrequent. A taxi is the practical choice late in the day; otherwise keep the afternoon in Narita and enjoy the temple town at an unhurried pace.

Day 25 · Mon, Nov 16
Narita, Chiba Prefecture

Narita temple town and departure

  1. Naritasan Park — Narita; early morning, ~1 hour. Take one final quiet walk around the temple grounds.
  2. Naritasan Omotesando cafés — Narita; morning, ~1 hour, ¥700–1,500 per person. Have coffee and a final Japanese pastry.
  3. Narita International Airport — Narita; departure, allow 2–3 hours before the flight. Travel by airport train or hotel shuttle and complete check-in.

Early Morning — Naritasan Park

Before the temple-town crowds arrive, take one final quiet walk through Naritasan Park, behind Naritasan Shinshoji Temple. The paths around the ponds, wooded slopes and three-storey pagoda are especially peaceful in the morning; allow about an hour and wear comfortable shoes, as the park is gently hilly. It is free to enter and generally accessible from early morning, although the temple’s inner buildings and services begin later. If you have luggage, leave it at your accommodation or use lockers around Keisei Narita Station rather than carrying it through the park.

Morning — Naritasan Omotesando Cafés

Walk back along Naritasan Omotesando, the old approach street between Keisei Narita Station and the temple. This is a good final taste of traditional Japan: look for the shopfronts selling unagi, rice crackers and sweets, then settle into a café such as Miyoshiya, a long-running kissaten-style spot known for coffee and homemade-style desserts. For a lighter finish, pick up a seasonal Japanese pastry or dorayaki from one of the confectionery shops along the street; budget roughly ¥700–1,500 per person. Many independent cafés open around 9:00–10:00am, so check the day’s hours before setting out, particularly if your flight is early.

Departure — Narita International Airport

Allow two to three hours before your international departure, plus roughly 15 minutes to collect luggage and reach the station. From Keisei Narita Station, the Keisei Main Line takes around 10–15 minutes to Narita Airport, while a hotel shuttle is easier if you have large bags or are staying away from the station; confirm whether it serves Terminal 1, 2–3, or the airport’s newer terminal arrangements. At the airport, complete check-in first, then use the remaining time for tax-free shopping and one last snack—Narita Airport has considerably better food options after security than most airports, including sushi, ramen and matcha sweets.

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