Japan Highlights: Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto and Osaka

Morning

Start at teamLab Borderless in Azabudai Hills, ideally for the first timed entry, when the rooms are calmer and the darker installations feel especially atmospheric. Allow about two hours; tickets are generally around ¥4,000, and advance booking is essential. From Azabudai Hills Station, it’s an easy walk, though the complex is large—wear comfortable shoes and expect dim rooms, uneven floors, and occasional queues for popular works.

Walk roughly 15 minutes to Tokyo Tower, passing through Shiba Park on the way. Go up to the Main Deck for excellent views across central Tokyo, allowing about 1–1½ hours; admission is typically around ¥1,500–¥3,000 depending on the deck and booking date. If you need a quick lunch, the nearby Azabudai Hills Market is more convenient than waiting around the tower, with plenty of casual food counters.

Afternoon and Evening

Take the Toei Mita Line from Onarimon Station toward Shibuya, changing as needed, or use a taxi in roughly 20–30 minutes depending on traffic. Spend the afternoon around Shibuya Crossing, stepping into the surrounding Center-gai and Dogenzaka streets rather than treating the crossing as a quick photo stop. Head to Shibuya Sky for sunset, but book a timed slot well ahead—sunset places sell out, and rooftop access can close temporarily in strong wind or rain. Arrive 20–30 minutes early at Shibuya Scramble Square for the security check and elevator queues.

Finish with conveyor-belt sushi at Uobei Shibuya Dogenzaka, a lively, good-value choice where dishes are ordered on a touchscreen and delivered directly to your seat. Expect about ¥1,500–¥3,000 per person; queues are common at dinner, so join the line before you are very hungry. It is a short walk from Shibuya Sky, and the restaurant typically stays open until late, making it a flexible end to the day.

Morning

Begin at Meiji Shrine around 8:00am, entering through the broad torii near Harajuku Station and following the long, shaded gravel paths through the forest. The shrine grounds are free and usually open from sunrise to sunset; allow about 1½ hours, including time to watch morning prayers and make a quiet visit at the main hall. Keep voices low and avoid standing in the center of the approach, which is traditionally reserved for the shrine’s deities. From the shrine, walk toward Harajuku for a late-morning wander through Takeshita Street and the smaller Jingumae lanes. Takeshita is busiest around midday, so browse the crepe stands and fashion shops briefly, then escape to the calmer backstreets around Cat Street and Omotesando. Allow roughly 1½ hours; the walk from the shrine takes about 10 minutes.

Afternoon

For lunch, stay in the area or take the short walk toward Minami-Aoyama, where you’ll find plenty of cafés and small restaurants away from the crowds. Continue to the Nezu Museum, about 15–20 minutes on foot from Harajuku’s Omotesando side, or a short taxi ride if your feet need a break. The museum generally opens at 10:00am and is closed on Mondays; admission is typically around ¥1,500–2,000, with some exhibitions costing slightly more. Spend about two hours with its Japanese and East Asian collection, then leave time for the beautifully composed garden—especially pleasant in the softer afternoon light. Check the exhibition calendar before setting out, as temporary closures and ticket arrangements can change.

Late Afternoon and Evening

Take the Tokyo Metro from Omote-sando Station toward Nippori, changing as needed, or allow around 25–35 minutes by taxi depending on traffic, to reach Yanaka Ginza. Arrive with enough daylight for a relaxed 1½-hour stroll along the compact shopping street and through the surrounding old lanes, where small temples, wooden homes, cats, and traditional snack shops give this part of Tokyo a slower feel. Many shops close by early evening, so browse before 6:00pm if you want to buy sweets or local snacks. Finish at Hoppy Street in Asakusa, reached from Nishi-Nippori by the JR Yamanote Line and Tokyo Metro Ginza Line in roughly 25–30 minutes. Settle into one of the casual izakaya for simmered beef tendon, yakitori, and a Hoppy drink; expect about ¥2,000–4,000 per person, often with a small seating charge. It is lively rather than refined, and some counters have limited English, so pointing at menu photos is perfectly normal.

Morning

Start early at Senso-ji, arriving around 8:00am through the Kaminarimon Gate while the temple grounds are still relatively peaceful. Walk beneath the huge lantern, continue along the Nakamise-dori arcade, and take time at the main hall and nearby Asakusa Shrine; entry is free, and about 1½ hours is enough. Afterward, return to Nakamise-dori for a slower browse of traditional sweets, rice crackers, handcrafted souvenirs, and seasonal snacks. Most shops open around 9:00–10:00am, so the street becomes livelier as the morning progresses; try ningyoyaki or freshly made melonpan rather than filling up too early.

Midday

Walk west for roughly 15 minutes to Kappabashi Dougu Street, the wonderfully practical shopping district between Asakusa and Ueno. Allow about 1½ hours to explore its specialist shops selling lacquerware, chopsticks, restaurant crockery, kitchen knives, and remarkably realistic plastic food samples. Individual store hours vary, but many open from around 10:00am and close by 5:00–6:00pm; knife purchases may involve engraving or export advice, so ask about packing and airline rules. For lunch, keep it simple at a neighborhood soba or tonkatsu counter around Kappabashi, where queues are usually shorter than in central Asakusa.

Afternoon and evening

From Kappabashi, walk or take the Ginza and Hanzomon lines via Asakusa toward Tokyo Skytree—allow about 20–30 minutes depending on the connection. Head up in the mid-afternoon for views that gradually shift from bright city detail to the first evening lights; reserve a timed ticket in advance, especially for the Tembo Deck and Tembo Galleria, with combined admission commonly around ¥3,000–4,000. Plan roughly two hours, including a little time in Tokyo Solamachi at the tower’s base. Finish with dinner at Tamon in Solamachi, a convenient relaxed choice for Japanese dishes at approximately ¥2,000–4,000 per person. If the sky is hazy, do not worry—the tower is still enjoyable for its scale and nighttime panorama, and the restaurant area makes an easy, unhurried end to the day.

Morning

After arriving in Hakone, head first to the Hakone Open-Air Museum in Ninotaira. Aim for around 9:30am, when the grounds are quieter and the mountain air is still pleasantly cool. Allow about 2½ hours for the sculpture gardens, indoor galleries, and the Symphonic Sculpture tower; the museum usually opens at 9:00am and admission is roughly ¥2,000–2,500. From Hakone-Yumoto, take the Hakone Tozan Railway to Chokoku-no-Mori Station, then walk about five minutes. Wear comfortable shoes—the site is spacious and hilly, with outdoor paths that can be slippery after rain.

Lunch and Afternoon Exploring

Take the train one stop to Kowakudani, then walk uphill for roughly 15 minutes to the Okada Museum of Art. Its Japanese and Asian collection deserves about 1½ hours, and the garden café is a good place for a light lunch or matcha break; check the museum’s current opening day before setting out, as it commonly closes on Tuesdays. Admission is around ¥2,800. From there, return to Gora and board the Hakone Ropeway toward Togendai—allow around 1½ hours including a stop at Owakudani. The ride crosses the stark volcanic landscape of Hakone, and Owakudani is the place to try its sulphur-darkened black eggs, traditionally said to add seven years to your life. Ropeway operations can pause in strong wind or volcanic conditions, so check the live status before leaving Gora; the full route is generally covered by the Hakone Freepass.

Evening

Continue from Owakudani to Togendai, then retrace the ropeway route or use the local bus connections back toward Kowakudani—allow extra time, as the final services are less frequent than Tokyo transit. Finish at Hakone Kowakudani Onsen Ryokan for an unhurried soak in the hot springs. Day-use bathing, where available, is typically around ¥2,000–5,000; reserve ahead if possible and bring a small towel, or expect to buy one on site. Keep the evening simple after the long day: soak, have dinner at your accommodation, and let Hakone’s forested quiet do the work.

Early Afternoon

After the morning Shinkansen from Odawara Station to Kyoto Station, allow roughly 30 minutes to drop bags at your hotel before heading into central Kyoto. Start at Nishiki Market, reached easily by walking or taking the Karasuma Subway Line to Shijo Station and walking east. The covered market is best in the early afternoon, when stalls are still fully open; allow about 1½ hours to browse pickles, grilled seafood, tofu dishes, yuba, and seasonal sweets. Look for small portions rather than a full meal, and remember that eating while walking is discouraged—use the stall’s designated area. Most businesses operate roughly 10:00am–6:00pm, though individual closing days vary.

Mid-Afternoon and Late Afternoon

From Nishiki Market, walk east through the narrow lanes toward Kennin-ji, about 20 minutes on foot. Kyoto’s oldest Zen temple is a welcome change of pace after the busy market, with restrained gardens and striking ink paintings, including the famous twin dragons on the folding screen. Allow an hour; admission is usually around ¥600, and the temple generally closes in the late afternoon, so check the day’s final entry before setting off. Continue another 10 minutes south-east to Yasaka Shrine, where the vermilion gates and lantern-lined grounds become particularly atmospheric as the light softens. The shrine grounds are free and open around the clock, although the smaller buildings and offices keep daytime hours.

Evening

Spend the next hour or so wandering through Gion, concentrating on Hanamikoji Street and the quieter lanes around Shirakawa rather than trying to rush from one landmark to another. Be respectful around private residences and do not photograph geiko or maiko without permission; the area is still a working neighborhood, not an open-air stage set. For dinner, reserve at Gion Tanto, a friendly teppanyaki restaurant known for okonomiyaki and grilled dishes, with dinner typically costing about ¥5,000–10,000 per person. It is popular and seating is limited, so a reservation is wise; afterward, a short evening stroll along the lantern-lit lanes makes an easy finish to your first Kyoto day.

Morning

Start at Fushimi Inari Taisha around 6:30–7:00am, before the main crowds arrive. From Kyoto Station, take the JR Nara Line to Inari Station—the journey is about five minutes, and the shrine entrance is directly outside. The grounds are free and open around the clock. Walk beyond the lower shrine and follow the torii-lined trail uphill; you do not need to complete the entire mountain loop, but allowing about 2½ hours gives you time to reach the quieter viewpoints around Yotsutsuji. Wear proper walking shoes and carry water, as the stone steps become steeper and there are relatively few places to buy refreshments higher up. Descend to Inari Station, then take the same JR line one stop to Tofukuji Station for Tofuku-ji, a ten-minute walk away. Allow about 1½ hours for the temple’s spacious Zen compounds, mossy gardens, and covered walkways. General temple areas are typically open from around 9:00am, with seasonal garden admission usually around ¥500–1,000; autumn foliage is the famous season, but September is much quieter.

Afternoon and evening

From Tofuku-ji, return to the station and take the Keihan Main Line south to Chushojima Station, or use the JR Nara Line to Momoyama Station and walk; either option puts you within roughly 15 minutes of the Fushimi Sake District. Spend the afternoon wandering along the canals and old brewery streets around Gokōbashi, where white-plastered storehouses and dark wooden facades give the neighborhood a distinctly traditional feel. Begin at Kizakura Kappa Country, usually open from late morning into the early evening, to see the small brewing museum and sample regional sake; tasting sets generally cost about ¥500–1,500. Sake breweries may have reduced hours or occasional closures, so check the day’s opening information before setting out, and remember that tastings are best enjoyed slowly in the heat of early September. Finish with dinner at Torisei Honten, a long-established brewery restaurant known for chicken dishes and sake from its adjoining brewery. It is roughly ¥2,000–4,000 per person; arrive before the dinner rush or expect a queue, and allow extra time if you want to order a set menu rather than a quick yakitori meal.

Morning

Begin at Kiyomizu-dera around 7:30am, before the Higashiyama lanes fill with tour groups. The temple usually opens from 6:00am, and admission is about ¥500. Allow roughly 1½ hours for the main hall, the famous wooden stage, and the hillside views toward southern Kyoto. From the temple, walk downhill through Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, two of Kyoto’s prettiest preserved streets. Give yourself about 1½ hours to browse pottery, textiles, and traditional sweets; many smaller shops open around 10:00am, while the lanes themselves are enjoyable earlier.

Continue to Kodai-ji, about a 10-minute walk away. Its refined gardens, teahouses, and bamboo grove make a welcome, quieter contrast to the busy streets; allow an hour and expect admission of roughly ¥600. For lunch, keep it simple in Higashiyama—look for a set meal of yudofu, grilled fish, or seasonal vegetables rather than committing to a long tasting menu. If you want something quick, the side streets near Yasaka-dori have better-value options than the most prominent lanes.

Afternoon and Evening

Take a taxi from Kodai-ji to the north end of the Philosopher’s Path—around 20–30 minutes depending on traffic and roughly ¥2,000–3,000—or use the Keihan and municipal bus network if you prefer to save money. Walk south along the canal for about 1½ hours, stopping whenever a small temple gate, garden, or café catches your eye. Finish at Ginkaku-ji, which generally opens around 8:30am and charges about ¥500; allow an hour for the moss gardens, clipped shrubs, and views up the hillside. Go late enough to enjoy softer light, but arrive at least 45 minutes before closing, as times can vary seasonally. Dinner at Omen Ginkaku-ji is a fitting finish: order the signature udon with dipping broth, sesame, scallions, and seasonal vegetables. Expect approximately ¥2,000–4,000 per person, and allow for a possible queue at peak dinner time. Note that September remains hot and humid, so carry water, wear shoes with good grip, and take a taxi if the afternoon heat makes the longer transfers uncomfortable.

Morning

Take the JR Kyoto Line Special Rapid from Kyoto Station around 7:30–8:00am, arriving at Osaka Station in about 30 minutes; from there, continue on the Osaka Loop Line to Morinomiya Station and walk roughly 15 minutes to Osaka Castle. Aim to reach the grounds around 9:00am. The castle museum generally opens at 9:00am, with admission around ¥1,200, and the full visit takes about two hours. The interior is a modern museum rather than an original castle, but the top-floor views are excellent; allow extra time for the surrounding moat, stone walls, and spacious Osaka Castle Park, especially if the September heat is strong.

From Osaka Castle, walk or take the Osaka Metro from Morinomiya toward Yodoyabashi, then stroll onto Nakanoshima Park—roughly 20–30 minutes in total depending on the connection. Spend late morning beside the rivers, where rose gardens, promenades, and views of Osaka’s historic civic buildings offer a welcome breather from the castle crowds. The park is free and open all day; pick up a drink from a nearby convenience store or café, since shaded seating is limited in places.

Afternoon

Continue north to Tenjinbashisuji and visit the Osaka Museum of Housing and Living, a short walk from Tenjimbashisuji 6-chome Station. It usually opens at 10:00am and costs about ¥600; allow around 1½ hours. The reconstructed Edo-period streetscape is indoors and air-conditioned, making this a particularly good midday stop in September. Afterward, step directly onto Tenjinbashisuji Shopping Street, Japan’s longest covered shopping arcade, and wander south at an easy pace for about 1½ hours. Browse small clothing shops, kitchenware stores, snack counters, and local cafés rather than trying to cover every block—the atmosphere becomes more neighborhood-like away from the busiest entrances.

Evening

Make your way to Dotonbori by Osaka Metro from Higashi-Umeda or Minami-Morimachi, allowing roughly 15–20 minutes, and have dinner at Harijyu Grill, the long-established Western-style restaurant near the canal. Expect approximately ¥4,000–8,000 per person for its beef dishes; reservations are sensible for dinner, particularly on a Friday or Saturday. This is a classic place for sukiyaki-style beef and old-school yoshoku rather than a quick street-food meal, so settle in and enjoy the slower finish after a full day on foot. Afterwards, a short stroll along the Dotonbori canal is easy if you still have energy, but save the livelier food-and-neon exploring for tomorrow.

Morning

Start around 8:30am at Kuromon Ichiba Market in Nippombashi, when the stalls are open but before the narrow arcade becomes busiest. This is best treated as a grazing stop rather than a formal breakfast: look for grilled scallops, sea urchin, wagyu skewers, tamagoyaki, and seasonal fruit, though prices vary considerably by stall. Allow about 1½ hours, and remember that eating while walking is discouraged—use the stall’s designated counter or seating. From Nippombashi Station, the market is a short walk; most vendors generally operate roughly 9:00am–5:00pm, although individual hours vary.

Walk north into Nipponbashi Den Den Town, Osaka’s electronics and pop-culture district, for the late morning. Browse Nipponbashi Street and the side lanes for retro games, model kits, manga, anime goods, second-hand cameras, and hobby shops; Joshin Super Kids Land is particularly useful for scale models and collectibles. Give yourself about 1½ hours without trying to cover every store. The district is easy on foot from the market, and many shops open around 10:00am or later, so this timing works better than arriving very early.

Afternoon

After lunch, take the Osaka Metro Sakaisuji Line from Ebisucho Station or walk south into Shinsekai, allowing roughly 15–20 minutes depending on where you stop. Wander around Janjan Yokocho and the brightly painted streets beneath Tsutenkaku, where old-fashioned game arcades, kushikatsu restaurants, and slightly faded signage give the neighborhood its nostalgic character. Avoid ordering kushikatsu with sauce shared from a communal container—the traditional “no double dipping” rule still matters. Spend around 1½ hours exploring before going up Tsutenkaku; the observation decks usually open from about 9:00am to 9:00pm, with admission commonly around ¥1,000–1,500 depending on the ticket and special areas. Tickets can sell out at busy times, so check the official site if the upper deck is important to you.

Evening

Head from Shinsekai to Dotonbori by the Osaka Metro Midosuji Line, travelling from Dobutsuen-mae to Namba in roughly 10 minutes, or take a longer walk if you want to see more of southern Osaka. Arrive after 6:00pm, when the canalfront signs begin to glow and Dotonbori is at its most theatrical. See the Glico Running Man from Ebisu Bridge, then stroll along the canal and nearby Hozenji Yokocho before dinner at Mizuno, a long-running okonomiyaki specialist. Expect roughly ¥1,500–3,000 per person; queues are normal, particularly at dinner, and the restaurant may close once its ingredients run out. Finish with a relaxed walk around Namba rather than adding another major attraction—the neon, food smells, and constant street activity are the evening’s main event.