12-Day Orkney and Shetland Island Road Trip from Aberdeen

Afternoon and Overnight Ferry

Make your way to Aberdeen Harbour for the NorthLink Ferries sailing to Kirkwall. For the overnight car ferry, aim to arrive around 16:30–17:30, or at least the check-in time shown on your booking; vehicle check-in normally closes well before departure. Have your booking reference, passports, and confirmation of the car’s dimensions ready, and follow signs for the vehicle queue rather than the passenger terminal. Allow extra time for city traffic and harbour security, particularly if travelling on a Friday.

Once aboard, take essentials—including medicines, toiletries, a warm layer, and anything needed overnight—out of the car, as vehicle decks are closed during the crossing. A reserved cabin is well worth considering for the overnight journey; otherwise, settle into the public lounges and watch the Aberdeen coastline fade. Food and drinks are available onboard, but bringing snacks and a refillable bottle makes the crossing easier. Check the sailing status before leaving for the harbour, as North Sea weather can affect timings.

Morning Arrival in Kirkwall

After disembarking at Kirkwall Harbour the following morning, collect the car promptly and take a short walk along the waterfront before checking in. The harbour is compact, so you can stretch your legs around the quayside without committing to a full sightseeing visit. Keep luggage out of sight in the car and use the first available signed parking area; the centre is walkable, and there is little advantage in driving between the harbour and nearby accommodation. If you arrive before check-in, ask your accommodation to store bags and use the morning to recover from the crossing rather than packing in extra attractions.

Morning: Lamb Holm and the Churchill Barriers

Start around 09:00 from Kirkwall and drive south on the A961 towards Lamb Holm; the journey takes roughly 25 minutes. Visit the Italian Chapel, a beautifully decorated Catholic chapel built by Italian prisoners of war during the Second World War. Allow about 45 minutes, including time to look closely at the painted interior. It is usually open during daytime visiting hours, but opening arrangements can vary, so check locally before setting out; donations are appreciated. Continue south across the Churchill Barriers, the causeways linking the South Isles. Allow around 45 minutes for the drive and photo stops, taking care not to linger in passing places or block access for local traffic. Wind can be strong even in September, so bring a jacket.

Afternoon: Burray and Kirkwall

Retrace the route north to Burray for the Orkney Fossil and Heritage Centre, a small, characterful museum where you can spend about an hour exploring fossils, geology and local island history. Check its seasonal opening hours before travelling, as September hours can be limited; admission is generally modest, often around £5–10. From Burray, allow approximately 25–30 minutes back to Kirkwall, with easy parking near the town centre. Spend the later afternoon at the Orkney Museum, housed in Tankerness House on Broad Street. Its archaeological collections provide useful context for the rest of your island trip, particularly the Neolithic material, and an hour is sufficient. It typically closes in the late afternoon and may have reduced seasonal hours, so aim to arrive by about 15:00.

Evening: Dinner in Kirkwall

For dinner, walk through the compact centre of Kirkwall to Helgi’s, a relaxed harbour-side spot on Harbour Street serving local produce and hearty dishes. Budget roughly £20–35 per person, and book ahead if possible—September evenings can still be busy. After dinner, take a short stroll around the harbour and nearby streets; Kirkwall is especially atmospheric once the day-trippers have gone, with the waterfront and old town offering an easy, unhurried finish.

Morning: Kirkwall’s historic heart

Begin around 09:30 at Tankerness House Museum, tucked just off Broad Street in a series of atmospheric historic buildings. Allow about an hour for its archaeology displays, local-history rooms and small garden; admission is usually free, though donations are welcome. Check the current opening days and hours before setting out, as September schedules can be reduced. From here, walk a few minutes through the compact centre to St Magnus Cathedral. Give yourself roughly an hour to appreciate the red-sandstone interior, Norse history and carved details—there is generally no admission charge, but donations help with upkeep. If you have time between the two, browse Victoria Street and Albert Street, where Kirkwall’s independent shops are more enjoyable than a rushed drive between sights.

Afternoon: Whisky and a prehistoric detour

After lunch in central Kirkwall, drive north-east to Highland Park Distillery, about 10 minutes from town. Tours and tastings typically last around 90 minutes, and advance booking is strongly recommended; prices vary by experience, commonly around £20–£100 per person. Drivers should ask about a designated-driver option or spit cups, and remember that the single-track approach roads require patience. Afterwards, head west towards Wideford Hill Chambered Cairn. Park only where permitted and allow about an hour for the short but steep uphill walk—good footwear is useful, especially after rain. The tomb is atmospheric and usually quiet, with broad views back across the Mainland; bring a torch if you want to look properly inside, and take care on the uneven approach.

Evening: Dinner in Kirkwall

Return to Kirkwall for dinner at The Lynnfield Hotel, where modern Scottish cooking makes a pleasant change from a purely pub-based evening. Expect approximately £25–45 per person before drinks, and reserve ahead if possible, particularly for a Sunday evening. You can leave the car at your accommodation and walk in town; if driving, confirm parking arrangements with the hotel rather than relying on unrestricted street spaces. Keep the evening unhurried—tomorrow’s west-coast touring is more enjoyable with an early start, but there is no need to rush through Kirkwall tonight.

Morning: Neolithic Skara Brae and Skaill House

Leave Kirkwall after breakfast, taking the A965 west towards Sandwick; the drive to Skara Brae Prehistoric Village at the Bay of Skaill takes about 35–40 minutes. Allow at least 1½ hours for the site: the visitor centre and reconstructed houses help make sense of the remarkably preserved settlement, while the coastal path gives you a fine first look at the bay. Entry is generally around £10–£12 for an adult, with timed or seasonal opening arrangements worth checking with Historic Environment Scotland before setting out. Wear proper shoes—the approach can be windy and wet even in September—and arrive early if possible, as the car park fills quickly.

A short walk across the grounds brings you to Skaill House, the 17th-century manor beside the archaeological site. Allow about an hour for the furnished rooms and stories of the household; combined tickets may be available, but opening days and prices can vary at the end of the season, so check ahead. Afterward, take a breather around the bay rather than rushing straight back to the car. From Skaill House, drive east towards Stenness—roughly 25 minutes—to the Ring of Brodgar, where a broad footpath loops around the stones in about an hour. There is no standard admission charge, though parking is limited and the exposed site has little shelter.

Afternoon and Evening: West-coast scenery and Stromness

Continue west towards the coast for Yesnaby Cliffs, around 20 minutes from Ring of Brodgar. Follow the marked path carefully along the cliff edge for views of sea stacks, seabirds and, if conditions are calm, the distinctive natural arch. Keep well back from the edge, particularly in strong winds, and allow roughly an hour; this is a place for a slow wander rather than a checklist stop. Then drive south and west to Stromness, about 25–30 minutes away, to check in and settle into the town’s harbour-front lanes. Finish at Ferry Inn for dinner, budgeting approximately £20–£35 per person. It is a good idea to reserve a table, especially on a September evening, and to check the kitchen’s closing time before leaving Yesnaby. After dinner, take a gentle walk along Stromness harbour and Victoria Street—the old stone houses and shifting light over Hamnavoe are particularly atmospheric at dusk.

Morning: Birsay’s Norse coastline

Leave Kirkwall around 08:30–09:00 and follow the A965 west, then the B roads towards Birsay—allow roughly 45 minutes, with narrow stretches near the coast. Begin at Birsay Earl’s Palace, where the roofless walls and sea-facing setting make the remains especially atmospheric. Allow about 45 minutes; the site is generally open during daylight, but access and interpretation can be seasonal, so check Historic Environment Scotland before setting out. Continue a short distance to the Brough of Birsay. Only cross the tidal causeway during the published safe window—never try to squeeze it in as the tide turns—and allow around 1½ hours for the Viking and medieval remains, lighthouse views and wonderfully exposed shoreline. Wear waterproof footwear, as the causeway and island can be slippery.

Late morning and lunch: Clifftops and local beer

Drive east along the coast to Marwick Head, where a straightforward cliff walk leads to the Kitchener Memorial and broad views across Hoy Sound. Allow around an hour, taking care near the unfenced edges, particularly in wind. From here, continue inland to The Orkney Brewery at Quoyloo for lunch and a tasting of local ales; budget approximately £15–25 per person and check current kitchen and visitor-centre hours, as September service can be reduced. It is a good place to slow the pace after the exposed coastal walk rather than trying to add another major sight.

Afternoon: Maritime Stromness

Finish in Stromness, reached in about 15–20 minutes from the brewery. Park near the harbour and spend roughly an hour at Stromness Museum, whose displays cover Orkney’s maritime history, whaling connections, archaeology and natural heritage. Check its seasonal opening hours before leaving—September hours are often shorter than in midsummer. Afterwards, take a gentle wander along the harbour and the old waterfront before driving back to Kirkwall via the A965, a journey of approximately 25–30 minutes. Allow extra time for the return if you stop for photographs or need fuel; aim to be back by early evening for dinner in town.

Morning: Check in for the crossing

Return the car at Kirkwall Ferry Terminal and check in for the NorthLink Ferries sailing to Lerwick. Follow the vehicle check-in time on your booking rather than relying on the sailing time—vehicle check-in can close well before departure, and September weather can occasionally affect schedules. The daytime crossing takes roughly seven to eight hours, including loading and unloading; fares vary widely, but allow approximately £60–£150 for a passenger and car, with cabins costing extra. Bring a small day bag with medication, chargers, a warm layer and anything you need during the crossing, as access to the vehicle deck is normally restricted once sailing.

Afternoon: Crossing to Shetland

Settle in for the voyage and use the time to rest, eat aboard or watch the changing northern coastline from the passenger areas. Keep your booking confirmation and vehicle details handy when disembarking. On arrival at Lerwick Ferry Terminal, drive into town and leave the car at your accommodation or a convenient town-centre parking area before exploring on foot; Lerwick is compact, and the harbourfront is much easier to appreciate without worrying about narrow streets and limited spaces.

Evening: Harbour walk, museum and supper

Take an easy 45-minute orientation walk around Lerwick Harbour, following the waterfront and lanes around Victoria Pier and Commercial Street. Then visit Shetland Museum and Archives, an excellent first introduction to the islands’ archaeology, crofting traditions, maritime history and distinctive local culture. Allow about 1½ hours; it is generally open into the late afternoon or early evening, but check the September timetable before sailing day, as hours can vary seasonally. Finish at The Dowry for a relaxed seafood-focused dinner—allow roughly £20–£35 per person, and book or call ahead if arriving after the ferry, since evening tables in Lerwick are limited.

Morning: Lerwick Old Town

After yesterday’s NorthLink Ferries crossing, keep this first morning easy and explore Lerwick Old Town on foot. Start along Commercial Street, then wander the narrow lanes and waterfront closes for about an hour; the best details are often the painted doors, stone cottages and glimpses between buildings rather than any single attraction. Allow roughly 10–15 minutes to walk here from the ferry terminal, or leave the car parked and avoid moving it—central spaces are limited and most of the old town is far more enjoyable on foot.

Continue to Fort Charlotte, an easy uphill walk from Commercial Street. Set aside around 45 minutes for the bastions and broad views across the harbour towards Bressay. Entry is generally free, although access can be limited if maintenance or events are taking place; check the current Historic Environment Scotland information before setting out. Wear a windproof layer even in September—the fort is exposed, and Shetland weather can change quickly.

Afternoon: Bressay Ferry and waterfront

Walk down to the Bressay Ferry terminal for the short crossing from Lerwick to Bressay. Leave the car behind: the ferry is primarily a pedestrian service, and the round trip makes a relaxed two-hour interlude among harbour views, seabirds and working boats. Check the Shetland Islands Council timetable before leaving, as sailings are frequent but not continuous, and allow a little extra time in case of weather-related changes. Fares are inexpensive—usually only a few pounds return—and you can simply enjoy the view near the terminal rather than attempting a longer island walk today.

Back in Lerwick, spend about 30 minutes at The Lodberrie, the distinctive waterfront group of buildings associated with Shetland. It is best appreciated from the outside, so be respectful of residents and keep clear of private entrances. For dinner, settle in at The String, a welcoming local restaurant within the town centre. Budget approximately £25–40 per person for a main meal and drink, and reserve ahead if possible, particularly on a September evening; after dinner, everything in central Lerwick is close enough to reach on foot.

Morning: Scalloway Castle and Scalloway Museum

Leave Lerwick after breakfast, driving west on the A970 and A971 to Scalloway—allow about 25 minutes. Park in the village and begin at Scalloway Castle, where the substantial, roofless remains of Earl Patrick Stewart’s early-17th-century stronghold still dominate the waterfront. Allow around 45 minutes; check the Historic Environment Scotland opening arrangements before setting out, as access can be seasonal, and expect roughly £3–5 if an admission charge applies. A short walk through the village brings you to Scalloway Museum, a particularly worthwhile stop for its stories of the Shetland Bus, wartime connections and local maritime life. Allow about an hour; opening days and hours can vary in September, so confirm locally or by phone, with admission generally around £4–6.

Afternoon: Meal Beach and St Ninian’s Isle Tombolo

After lunch in Scalloway—the harbour area is convenient for a light café meal—drive back towards Lerwick and take the ferry from Laxo across to Bressay for Meal Beach. The short crossing is used by cars and usually takes around 10 minutes; check the Shetland Islands Council timetable and allow time for the return sailing. From the Bressay terminal, follow the island road to the beach, then walk down to this quiet, beautifully shaped sandy cove. Give yourself about an hour, and bring waterproof shoes: the approach can be damp and the beach is exposed to Atlantic weather. Return to Mainland Shetland, then drive south towards St Ninian’s Isle Tombolo—roughly 45–55 minutes depending on traffic and stops. The walk across the narrow sand causeway and along the beach takes about 1½ hours; avoid crossing close to high tide, and check the tide times before leaving Scalloway.

Evening: Seafood dinner in Scalloway

Finish back in Scalloway at The Scalloway Hotel, a friendly local choice for seafood and other island produce. Book ahead for dinner, especially on a September Friday, and budget approximately £25–40 per person for a main course and drink. If the weather is clear, take a short stroll around the harbour after eating; otherwise, settle in for an early night—the drive back to Lerwick takes about 25 minutes on the A971.

Morning: Dunrossness and Sumburgh

Leave Scalloway early, ideally around 08:00, and take the A971 south before joining the A970 towards Dunrossness. The drive to Shetland Crofthouse Museum takes roughly 45–50 minutes. This small, atmospheric museum is best treated as a quiet window into everyday island life: allow about an hour to see the traditional furnished croft house, byre and surrounding buildings. Opening days can be limited outside summer, so check the museum’s current schedule before setting out; admission is generally modest, often around £5–8. Continue south for approximately 10 minutes to Jarlshof Prehistoric and Norse Settlement, allowing 1½ hours to follow the marked route through its remarkably layered remains. Wind is common here even on bright days, and the exposed paths can be uneven, so bring a waterproof layer and sturdy shoes. Admission is usually around £7–10, with seasonal opening hours.

A short drive brings you to Sumburgh Head Lighthouse, where you should allow another 1½ hours rather than rushing the cliffs. The lighthouse buildings and visitor facilities may have seasonal opening hours, but the headland walks and viewpoints are the main attraction; keep well back from the cliff edges, particularly in strong wind. September can still bring excellent views of seabirds and seals, though numbers vary. Have lunch from your own supplies or pick something up en route—there are few dependable food stops around the headland—then begin the long return north on the A970.

Afternoon and Evening: Northmavine and Lerwick

For the final scenic stop, detour north-west towards Mavis Grind, allowing roughly 1½–2 hours from Sumburgh Head depending on road conditions and brief viewpoints. This narrow isthmus near Roe Sound is one of Shetland’s wonderfully odd landscapes: you can stand between two bodies of water with the sea seemingly close on both sides. It needs only about 30 minutes, but leave extra time for photographs and the single-track approaches, using passing places carefully. From here, return towards Lerwick via the A970; plan on roughly 1¼–1½ hours, and aim to arrive by about 18:00 so dinner does not become a late finish. Park once in central Lerwick and walk to Da Haaf Restaurant, a reliable choice for local seafood and hearty island cooking. Expect approximately £25–45 per person before drinks; booking is sensible, especially on a Saturday evening. Keep the meal relaxed—after a full southern and northern Mainland loop, this is a day when an early night will feel well earned.

Morning: Drive to Eshaness

Leave Lerwick around 08:00–08:30 after breakfast, taking the A970 north before turning towards Northmavine and Eshaness. Allow about 1½ hours, including photo stops on the single-track sections; sheep and ponies often wander close to the road, so take it steadily. There is no need to rush the final approach—the views open dramatically around St Magnus Bay, and roadside lay-bys are ideal for a first glimpse of the coast.

Spend roughly 1½ hours at Eshaness Cliffs, following the footpaths around the old volcanic headland. The rock formations here are among Shetland’s most impressive: dark basalt walls, sea stacks and narrow inlets shaped by waves and ancient lava flows. Wear proper waterproof footwear, keep well back from the cliff edge, and bring a windproof layer even in September. Parking is informal and free, but facilities are very limited, so carry water and snacks.

Late Morning and Afternoon: Local history, then Brae

Continue to Tangwick Haa Museum, only a short drive from the cliffs, and allow about an hour. This traditional laird’s house is a small, volunteer-run museum packed with local photographs, household objects and stories of life in Northmavine. Opening days and hours can be limited outside the main summer season—often roughly late morning to mid-afternoon—so check locally before setting out and carry some cash for the modest admission donation. Afterwards, drive south towards Brae, a scenic journey of about 35–40 minutes, with the road narrowing in places.

Make your first stop at Brae Harbour, where a half-hour pause gives you a good feel for the working side of Shetland: fishing boats, moorings and broad views across Busta Voe. Finish at Frankie’s Fish & Chips, one of the island’s best-known seafood stops. Portions are generous, with local fish and shellfish usually the draw; expect around £10–20 per person. Check the September opening hours before relying on it for dinner, as seasonal service can be shorter, and consider eating early or taking the food away if the weather is good.

Early Morning: Toft–Ulsta and Yell

Leave Brae around 06:30–07:00, driving south on the A968 towards Toft. Check the Shetland Islands Council timetable carefully: the Toft–Ulsta car ferry is frequent but weather and seasonal schedules can affect the crossing. Allow roughly 30 minutes for queuing and loading, and keep some cash or a card available for the fare. Once on Yell, continue north to the Old Haa Museum at Burra Ness, allowing about 25–30 minutes from Ulsta. Set aside an hour for its local-history collections and community displays; opening is seasonal, so confirm the day’s hours before leaving, particularly in September.

Late Morning and Afternoon: Unst’s Northern Coast

Drive north across Yell to Gutcher, allowing around 35–40 minutes, then take the Gutcher–Belmont Ferry to Unst. Build in time for loading, as vehicle space is first-come, first-served on some sailings and the timetable can be less forgiving outside summer. From Belmont, drive east and north to Muness Castle, roughly 20 minutes. The roofless sixteenth-century ruins are usually freely accessible, but there are no facilities, so use the toilets and pick up food before leaving the ferry area. Continue to Hermaness National Nature Reserve, allowing about 25 minutes by car; the walk to the cliff viewpoints takes 2½–3 hours over rough, often wet ground. Stay on the marked path and keep well back from the edges—wind can be surprisingly strong even on a bright day.

Late Afternoon: Tea and the Return South

After the walk, drive to Victoria’s Vintage Tea Rooms for a well-earned pot of tea and cake, typically £8–15 per person. Check its September opening hours in advance, as island businesses may close early or operate reduced days outside peak season. You will then need to retrace the route via Belmont, Gutcher, Ulsta, and Toft before following the A968/A970 south to Lerwick, a journey of roughly 1 hour 15 minutes from Brae once back on Mainland. For this reason, do not linger over the tea stop if you need to reach Lerwick tonight; late ferry connections can leave you waiting at the piers, and it is wise to confirm the final Yell and Unst sailings before setting out.

Morning: Scalloway to Lerwick

Leave Scalloway early, ideally around 08:30, for the roughly 30-minute drive east via the A971 and A970. Allow extra time for fuel, returning any accommodation keys, and a final vehicle check before the ferry day begins. In Lerwick, keep your car conveniently parked rather than attempting to move it repeatedly—central short-stay spaces can be busy, while the harbour area is easiest on foot.

Continue to Shetland Arts Bonhoga Gallery in Weisdale, about 20 minutes west of Lerwick. Set in a converted former mill beside the burn, it is a worthwhile final island stop for contemporary Shetland and Scottish art; allow about an hour. Check the current exhibition and café opening times before leaving, as September hours can be seasonal, and expect roughly £5–£10 for admission if a paid exhibition is running. The gallery has parking, but give yourself a little flexibility if the weather makes the minor roads slow.

Afternoon: Lerwick waterfront and ferry

Return to Lerwick and spend around 45 minutes along the Lerwick waterfront, using the time for last-minute provisions—local oatcakes, cheese, smoked fish or knitwear make good take-home purchases. A short walk around Victoria Pier and Esplanade is enough to enjoy the harbour without straying far from the terminal. Pick up sandwiches and drinks before boarding; ferry cafés are convenient, but a packed supper is often better value. Aim to be at NorthLink Ferries’ Lerwick Ferry Terminal around 16:00–17:00, or strictly follow the vehicle check-in time on your booking. Keep passports, tickets and any cabin details accessible, and expect vehicle loading to take time; once aboard, settle in for the overnight sailing to Aberdeen, arriving the following morning.