Turkey and Lebanon Public Transport Itinerary from Istanbul to Beirut

Day 1 · Tue, Sep 29
Istanbul, Turkey

Arrival and settling in Istanbul

  1. Istanbul Airport → Taksim — Airport to central Istanbul; take Havaist to Taksim or M11–M2 via Gayrettepe, ~60–90 minutes.
  2. İstiklal Avenue — Taksim; easy orientation walk and dinner near the hotel, evening ~1.5 hours.
  3. Çiçek Pasajı — Beyoğlu; atmospheric historic arcade for meze or drinks, ~45 minutes.
  4. Rest at the hotel — Taksim; recover from the flight, remaining evening.
  5. Dinner near İstiklal Avenue — Beyoğlu; casual Turkish meal, ~€10–20 per person.

Arrival and transfer to Taksim

After landing at Istanbul Airport, allow roughly 60–90 minutes to reach central Istanbul, depending on traffic and your arrival terminal time. The easiest option with luggage is the Havaist airport bus to Taksim; check the departure bay and current fare at the airport, and use an Istanbulkart or contactless payment where accepted. The cheaper but less straightforward alternative is the M11 metro to Gayrettepe, followed by the M2 toward Taksim. Once at Taksim Square, walk or take a short local connection to your hotel near İstiklal Avenue; avoid accepting unsolicited taxi offers inside the terminal.

Evening orientation on İstiklal Avenue

After checking in and freshening up, take an easy first walk down İstiklal Avenue, mainly to get your bearings rather than cover the whole street. Wander past the historic red tram, bookshops, churches, arcades, and side streets toward Galatasaray Square, keeping an eye out for the quieter passages branching off the main avenue. Spend about 45–60 minutes here before stopping at Çiçek Pasajı, the ornate historic arcade just off İstiklal. It is atmospheric for a first-night drink or a small plate of meze, though prices can be higher than in nearby neighborhood lokantas; expect roughly €8–15 for a drink or light tasting.

Dinner and an early night

For a relaxed dinner near İstiklal Avenue, look for a busy esnaf lokantası or casual Turkish restaurant around Asmalımescit and the streets behind Galatasaray. Order something simple such as kuru fasulye, döner, pide, or grilled köfte with ayran; budget about €10–20 per person, depending on drinks and setting. Keep the evening deliberately light: return to the hotel afterward to recover from the flight, confirm tomorrow’s museum opening times, and keep your Istanbulkart ready for the first full sightseeing day.

Day 2 · Wed, Sep 30
Istanbul, Turkey

Sultanahmet classics and Karakoy

  1. Hagia Sophia — Sultanahmet; Istanbul’s essential Byzantine-Ottoman landmark, morning ~1.5 hours.
  2. Sultanahmet Mosque — Sultanahmet; visit the Blue Mosque’s grand interior, ~45 minutes.
  3. Basilica Cistern — Sultanahmet; atmospheric subterranean Byzantine cistern, ~1 hour.
  4. Sarayburnu Park — Eminönü; Bosphorus and Golden Horn views with a short rest, ~45 minutes.
  5. Grand Bazaar — Beyazıt; explore historic covered lanes and handicrafts, ~1.5 hours.
  6. Karaköy fish restaurant — Karaköy; seafood dinner near the waterfront, evening, ~€20–35 per person.

Late Morning: Hagia Sophia

Start around 10:00 at Hagia Sophia, reached by the T1 tram to Sultanahmet. Set aside about 90 minutes, and dress respectfully: shoulders and knees should be covered, with head coverings available for women at the entrance. Visitor arrangements and ticket access can change, so check the official site before leaving; expect roughly €25–€30 for the visitor areas. Go slowly beneath the dome, then look for the surviving Byzantine mosaics and Ottoman calligraphy rather than rushing straight through.

Midday: Sultanahmet Mosque and Basilica Cistern

Walk three minutes to Sultanahmet Mosque, commonly called the Blue Mosque, allowing around 45 minutes. It remains an active place of worship, so tourist entry pauses during prayer and Friday access is more restricted; remove your shoes and use the provided coverings. Then continue five minutes to the Basilica Cistern, where the dim lights, columns, and Medusa heads make a welcome contrast to the busy square. Allow about an hour and expect approximately €15–€25, with timed entry sometimes used during busy periods. For a quick lunch, avoid the most aggressively advertised restaurants around the square and grab a pide or döner on a side street toward Cağaloğlu.

Afternoon: Sarayburnu Park and the Grand Bazaar

Take the T1 tram from Sultanahmet toward Eminönü, then walk to Sarayburnu Park for 45 minutes of fresh air and broad views toward the Bosphorus, Golden Horn, and Asian shore. This is a good place to sit rather than add another attraction. Continue by tram from Eminönü to Beyazıt-Kapalıçarşı for the Grand Bazaar. Give yourself about 90 minutes to wander without a fixed shopping mission: the quieter outer lanes are better for browsing, while the central streets are busiest. Bargaining is normal for carpets, leather, lamps, and souvenirs, but compare several shops before buying and check the closing time on the day—many businesses finish around 19:00.

Evening: Karaköy seafood

From Beyazıt, take the T1 tram to Karaköy and settle in for dinner at Karaköy Balık Evi or one of the established fish restaurants along Karaköy’s waterfront streets. Reserve or arrive early if you want outdoor seating; a seafood dinner with meze, grilled fish, and a drink generally runs about €20–€35 per person, depending on the catch. Afterward, take a short walk along the waterfront toward Galata Bridge before returning by tram and the F1 funicular toward Taksim. Keep your Istanbulkart topped up, and avoid accepting unsolicited “special menu” offers near the busiest tourist approaches.

Day 3 · Thu, Oct 1
Istanbul, Turkey

Galata and the Bosphorus

  1. Galata Tower — Galata; panoramic city views from the medieval tower, morning ~1 hour.
  2. Karaköy Güllüoğlu — Karaköy; famous baklava stop, late morning ~30 minutes, ~€5–10 per person.
  3. Galataport Istanbul — Karaköy; waterfront promenade and coffee break, ~1 hour.
  4. Maiden’s Tower — Üsküdar; cross by public ferry for Bosphorus views and the landmark, afternoon ~1.5 hours.
  5. Dolmabahçe Palace — Beşiktaş; lavish imperial palace beside the strait, ~2 hours.
  6. Ortaköy Mosque — Ortaköy; sunset waterfront views and kumpir dinner, evening ~1.5 hours, ~€10–20 per person.

Morning: Galata skyline and a proper baklava stop

Start around 10:00 at Galata Tower, reached from Taksim by the F2 funicular toward Karaköy and then a short uphill walk through Galata. The tower usually opens around 08:30–09:00, but entry hours and prices can change; expect roughly €20–30 for the museum and observation level. Allow about an hour, and go early enough to avoid the longest queues—the upper balcony is narrow, but the views across the Golden Horn, Bosphorus, and historic peninsula are excellent. Walk downhill afterward toward Karaköy Güllüoğlu on Karaköy’s Karaköy Gümrük Caddesi for a box or plate of baklava; €5–10 is plenty for a tasting and Turkish tea. This is a good place to pause rather than rush straight into lunch.

Continue on foot to Galataport Istanbul, following the waterfront for around 10–15 minutes. Spend an hour strolling the promenade, browsing the open-air spaces, and taking a coffee break with views toward the strait. The complex is generally open from late morning into the evening, though individual shops and cafés vary. If you want something simple, choose one of the waterfront cafés rather than committing to a full meal—you will want room for the richer food later.

Afternoon: Across the Bosphorus to Üsküdar

From Karaköy or the nearby Kaba­taş ferry pier, take a public ferry to Üsküdar; services are frequent but not perfectly clockwork, so check the İstanbulkart screens or Şehir Hatları timetable before boarding. The crossing takes roughly 15–25 minutes and is one of the nicest inexpensive ways to see the city from the water. From Üsküdar, follow signs for the short boat service to Maiden’s Tower. Allow about 1½ hours including the boat, landing area, and views; tickets are commonly around €10–20, with schedules and access occasionally affected by weather or maintenance. Keep your return ferry in mind, then continue by bus toward Dolmabahçe Palace—the journey to Beşiktaş and the palace area usually takes 25–40 minutes depending on traffic.

Evening: Imperial interiors and sunset in Ortaköy

Visit Dolmabahçe Palace for roughly two hours. It is normally closed on Mondays, and last entry is often well before the complex’s closing time, so arrive with a comfortable margin rather than near the end of the afternoon; combined sections can cost roughly €25–40. The palace is best enjoyed at an unhurried pace, especially the ceremonial halls and Bosphorus-facing gardens. Modest clothing is sensible, and large bags may need to be left in storage. From the palace, take a bus north along the waterfront to Ortaköy, usually 15–25 minutes in light traffic but longer at rush hour.

Finish at Ortaköy Mosque, where the waterfront opens to one of the classic evening views of the Bosphorus Bridge. The mosque is active for worship, so check visiting access around prayer times and dress respectfully. Stay for sunset if the sky is clear, then have kumpir—a giant baked potato loaded with salads, cheese, olives, and other toppings—at one of the long-established stalls around Ortaköy Square, generally €10–20 per person. Return by bus to Kabataş or Beşiktaş, then use the F1 funicular toward Taksim; allow extra time after dinner because buses can crawl along the waterfront in the evening.

Day 4 · Fri, Oct 2
Istanbul, Turkey

Asian Istanbul and the Golden Horn

  1. Kuzguncuk — Asian Bosphorus shore; colorful streets, small galleries, and neighborhood cafés, morning ~1.5 hours.
  2. Çengelköy waterfront — Üsküdar; relaxed tea and Bosphorus views, late morning ~1 hour, ~€5–10 per person.
  3. Fener Greek Orthodox College — Fener; striking hilltop architecture above the Golden Horn, afternoon ~30 minutes outside.
  4. Balat — Golden Horn; explore colorful historic streets and independent cafés, ~2 hours.
  5. Kariye Mosque — Edirnekapı; exceptional Byzantine mosaics and architecture, late afternoon ~1.5 hours.
  6. Balat meyhane — Balat; meze dinner in the historic neighborhood, ~€15–30 per person.

Morning: Kuzguncuk and the Asian Bosphorus shore

Take the ferry from Kabataş to Üsküdar—the crossing is usually around 15 minutes and is much more pleasant than going by road. From Üsküdar, use a local bus toward Kuzguncuk; buses along the shore are frequent, but check the live departure board because routes change. Spend about 90 minutes wandering İcadiye Caddesi, the lanes around Kuzguncuk, and the waterfront. This is a calm residential pocket of Istanbul, with painted wooden houses, tiny galleries, and cafés rather than major monuments. Have coffee or a light breakfast at Ismet Baba, a long-standing fish restaurant by the water, or Pita Kuzguncuk for something quicker. Then continue by bus or a short local ride to Çengelköy, where the waterfront is ideal for a slow glass of tea at Çınaraltı, beneath the huge plane tree. Allow an hour here; the views toward the European shore are especially good in late morning. Tea and a snack should stay around €5–10 per person.

Afternoon: Fener Greek Orthodox College, Balat, and Kariye Mosque

Return by bus to Üsküdar, then take a ferry across to Karaköy; from there, the T5 tram toward Alibeyköy brings you to the Fener area. The combined journey can take 45–60 minutes, so do not rush the transfer. From the tram stop, walk uphill to see Fener Greek Orthodox College from outside—the red-brick building is one of the Golden Horn’s most dramatic landmarks, but it is an active school and is not generally open for casual interior visits. Continue downhill into Balat, taking your time on the steep lanes around Vodina Caddesi and Yıldırım Caddesi. Stop for Turkish coffee at Agora Meyhanesi 1890 or a pastry at Cumbalı Kahve; keep some flexibility here, because the pleasure of Balat is browsing rather than ticking off sights. Later, take a short bus ride or walk toward Kariye Mosque in Edirnekapı. The former Chora church is known for its exceptional Byzantine mosaics and should be given roughly 90 minutes. Check the current visiting schedule before leaving—mosque access can be interrupted around prayer times, and clothing should be modest.

Evening: meze in Balat

Head back to Balat for dinner rather than crossing the city again. Reserve or arrive early at Agora Meyhanesi 1890, where a spread of meze, grilled fish or meat, and raki makes a relaxed end to the day; expect approximately €15–30 per person depending on drinks and the main dishes. For a quieter alternative, look around the smaller meyhane-style restaurants near Vodina Caddesi, but confirm prices before ordering, especially for seafood. Return to Taksim by the T5 tram to Eminönü, then the T1 tram and F1 funicular, or use a bus connection if the tram is crowded. Istanbulkart works across the ferries, buses, trams, and metro; keep a little extra time for evening crowds and avoid planning the final connection too tightly.

Day 5 · Sat, Oct 3
Sapanca, Turkey

Sapanca and Kucuksu day trip

Getting there from Istanbul
Intercity bus (Metro Turizm, Kamil Koç, or Pamukkale) from Istanbul Dudullu/Alibeyköy or Harem via Sakarya, about 1.5–2.5 hours, ~₺300–600. Book on obilet.com. Depart 07:30–08:00 as planned.
  1. Istanbul → Sapanca — Harem or Istanbul intercity bus terminal to Sapanca by bus, depart around 07:30–08:00; allow ~2 hours plus terminal transfers.
  2. Sapanca Lake — Sapanca; lakeside walking and mountain scenery, morning ~2.5 hours.
  3. Sapanca lakeside restaurant — Sapanca; fish or Turkish breakfast/lunch, ~€10–20 per person.
  4. Kırkpınar — Sapanca; quieter village streets and garden cafés, afternoon ~1.5 hours.
  5. Sapanca → Istanbul — Return by intercity bus in the late afternoon or evening, ~2 hours.

Morning: Sapanca Lake

Take the early intercity bus from Istanbul and aim to arrive in Sapanca around 10:00. From the bus stop, use a local minibus or a short taxi ride to the lakeside; the exact stop can vary by operator, so ask for Sapanca Gölü when boarding. Spend the morning walking along the shore toward Sapanca Seyir Terası, where the lake opens out toward the forested Samanlı Mountains. The waterfront is relaxed rather than heavily curated—expect strolling paths, tea gardens, bicycle rentals, and plenty of spots to pause for photographs. Allow about 2–2½ hours, and bring a light layer: the lakeside can feel noticeably cooler and breezier than Istanbul.

Lunch by the lake

Have lunch at a lakeside restaurant such as Çiftlik Restaurant or one of the family-run fish restaurants along Rüstempaşa Caddesi. Grilled trout, seasonal meze, gözleme, and a traditional Turkish breakfast are the sensible choices; budget roughly €10–20 per person, depending on fish and drinks. Check the return bus schedule before sitting down, since Sapanca services can be less frequent later in the day. After lunch, leave enough time for the short transfer to Kırkpınar rather than trying to walk the entire lakeshore.

Afternoon: Kırkpınar

A local minibus toward Kırkpınar takes roughly 10–20 minutes, depending on where you board. This is the quieter, more residential side of the lake, with leafy streets, landscaped gardens, and cafés set back from the busier waterfront. Wander around Kırkpınar Sahili and the lanes near Bağdat Caddesi, stopping at a garden café for Turkish coffee or tea. The appeal here is simply slowing down: it is a pleasant place to watch local life and enjoy the mountain setting without adding another major attraction. Keep this visit to about 1½ hours, then return to Sapanca’s main bus area for your late-afternoon or evening bus back to Istanbul. Aim to be there 30–45 minutes before departure, as boarding points may be on the main road rather than directly beside the lake.

Day 6 · Sun, Oct 4
Istanbul, Turkey

Istanbul neighborhood exploration

Getting there from Sapanca
Intercity bus toward Istanbul (Metro/Kamil Koç/Pamukkale), about 1.5–2.5 hours, ~₺300–600. Book on obilet.com. Return late afternoon or evening after the previous day's excursion.
  1. Pera Museum — Tepebaşı; strong collection in a refined historic setting, morning ~1.5 hours.
  2. Museum of Innocence — Çukurcuma; intimate literary museum inspired by Orhan Pamuk’s novel, ~1 hour.
  3. Çukurcuma antique streets — Beyoğlu; browse distinctive shops and restored buildings, ~1 hour.
  4. Cihangir — Beyoğlu; leafy lanes and neighborhood atmosphere, afternoon ~1.5 hours.
  5. Van Kahvaltı Evi — Cihangir; substantial southeastern Turkish breakfast or early meal, ~€10–20 per person.
  6. Firuzağa Mosque square — Cihangir; relaxed local café stop, evening ~45 minutes.

Morning: Pera’s art and old Beyoğlu

After returning from Sapanca, keep this day deliberately easy. Aim to be back in central Istanbul by around 10:00–10:30, then make your way to Pera Museum in Tepebaşı. From Taksim, it is roughly a 10-minute downhill walk via Meşrutiyet Caddesi; if you arrive at Şişhane, the museum is even closer. Allow about 90 minutes for the collection and the elegant former Bristol Hotel interior. It is usually open from late morning into the evening, though the weekly closing day and temporary-exhibition hours can change, so check the official listing before setting out. Budget roughly ₺300–500 for admission, with discounts sometimes available.

Walk downhill through Beyoğlu toward Çukurcuma, passing the quieter side streets behind İstiklal rather than retracing the busiest pedestrian stretch. Spend about an hour at the Museum of Innocence, the intimate house museum built around Orhan Pamuk’s novel. It is compact and atmospheric, with everyday objects arranged in display cases; allow extra time if you enjoy reading the English explanations. Tickets are generally in the mid-hundreds of lira, and hours can vary, so arriving before mid-afternoon is sensible.

Afternoon: Çukurcuma and Cihangir

After the museum, wander the antique streets of Çukurcuma for about an hour. The best part is not one particular shop but the collection of restored Ottoman-era buildings, vintage furniture stores, old photographs, ceramics, and wonderfully impractical curiosities along Çukurcuma Caddesi and its side lanes. Prices range widely, and many shopkeepers are happy to let you browse without pressure. Continue south toward Cihangir, a pleasant 10–15-minute walk through sloping residential streets; take your time around Akyol Sokak and the small green pockets between the apartment blocks. This is a good afternoon for coffee and people-watching rather than adding another major sight.

For a late lunch or early dinner, settle at Van Kahvaltı Evi in Cihangir. Order the generous southeastern Turkish breakfast spread—cheeses, eggs, honey and kaymak, olives, breads, and regional specialties—even later in the day. Expect about €10–20 per person depending on what you add. It can be busy at peak breakfast hours, but by mid-afternoon the pace is usually more relaxed; allow around 60–75 minutes.

Evening: Firuzağa neighborhood pause

Finish at Firuzağa Mosque square, a short walk from the restaurant. The small square around the mosque has a distinctly local rhythm: residents meeting for tea, cats occupying the warmest paving stones, and cafés spilling onto the pavement as the light fades. Choose a simple tea, Turkish coffee, or soft drink and stay for roughly 45 minutes. From here, Taksim is a manageable uphill walk of around 15–20 minutes; alternatively, walk to Şişhane for the M2 metro or use the nearby bus routes toward central Beyoğlu. Keep the evening unhurried—this neighborhood is best enjoyed by lingering rather than trying to fit in another attraction.

Day 7 · Mon, Oct 5
Istanbul, Turkey

Princes Islands excursion

  1. Kabataş → Büyükada ferry — Depart early morning; allow roughly 1.5 hours each way and arrive at the ferry terminal 20–30 minutes early.
  2. Aya Yorgi Church — Büyükada; climb through pine forest to the island’s famous viewpoint, late morning ~2 hours.
  3. Büyükada streets and waterfront — Büyükada; admire historic mansions and car-free island scenery, ~1.5 hours.
  4. Splendid Palace Hotel — Büyükada; elegant island landmark and photo stop, ~30 minutes.
  5. Büyükada seafood restaurant — Harbor area; leisurely fish lunch, ~€20–35 per person.
  6. Büyükada → Kabataş ferry — Return in the late afternoon or early evening, ~1.5 hours.

Morning: Ferry to Büyükada and the climb to Aya Yorgi Church

Take an early Şehir Hatları ferry from Kabataş to Büyükada, ideally on a sailing around 08:00–08:30. The crossing takes about 1½ hours, with lovely views of Kadıköy, Kız Kulesi, and the other Princes’ Islands; arrive at the terminal 20–30 minutes early and bring a little cash for snacks and drinks. Ferries are less frequent than city buses, so check the timetable the evening before and avoid making the day depend on the very last return sailing.

From Büyükada pier, walk inland toward the island’s pine-covered southern route and follow signs for Aya Yorgi Church. The uphill walk takes roughly 45–60 minutes each way and includes a fairly steep, uneven section near the top, so wear proper shoes and carry water. Allow about two hours in total for the climb, the small church, and the sweeping viewpoint over the Sea of Marmara. The church itself is modest; the reward is the peaceful forest path and the panorama. Entry is generally free, though opening arrangements can vary, and the site may be quiet outside religious services.

Afternoon: Island streets, Splendid Palace Hotel, and lunch

Return toward the harbor slowly through Büyükada’s car-free streets. This is the best part of the island for wandering: look for wooden Ottoman-era mansions, shaded gardens, and the old lanes around Nizam and the waterfront. Instead of hiring a bicycle or electric cart, keep the pace relaxed and stop whenever a lane opens toward the sea. Allow about 1½ hours, then make a photo stop at the Splendid Palace Hotel, the island’s grand pink-and-white landmark near the pier. You generally view it from outside; treat it as an architectural stop rather than planning on a full hotel visit.

For lunch, choose a harbor-side seafood restaurant such as Milto or Fıstık Ahmet and order a shared spread of meze, grilled fish, and seasonal salad. Expect roughly €20–35 per person, more if you choose a large fish by weight; ask for the price before ordering. Keep lunch leisurely, but leave the pier with at least 25 minutes to spare for the return Büyükada–Kabataş ferry. The late-afternoon crossing takes about 1½ hours, and you should be back in Kabataş around early evening; check the live timetable before leaving the restaurant, as weather and seasonal schedules can affect departures.

Day 8 · Tue, Oct 6
Istanbul, Turkey

Kadikoy and Moda

  1. Kadıköy Market — Kadıköy; lively produce, cheese, spice, and street-food market, morning ~2 hours.
  2. Çiya Sofrası — Kadıköy; celebrated regional Turkish cuisine, lunch ~€15–25 per person.
  3. Yeldeğirmeni — Kadıköy; murals, cafés, and creative neighborhood streets, afternoon ~1.5 hours.
  4. Moda seaside park — Moda; scenic walking path overlooking the Sea of Marmara, ~1.5 hours.
  5. Ali Usta — Moda; classic Turkish ice cream stop, ~30 minutes, ~€3–7 per person.
  6. Kadıköy ferry pier — Kadıköy; return across the Bosphorus around sunset, ~30 minutes.

Morning: Kadıköy Market

Take a ferry to Kadıköy from Karaköy, Eminönü, or Beşiktaş; the crossing usually takes 15–25 minutes, and ferries are the nicest way to arrive. Start at Kadıköy Market around 10:00, wandering the streets around Güneşli Bahçe Sokak, Tellalzade Sokak, and Yağlıkçı İsmail Sokak. This is a good place for a Turkish breakfast, olives, local cheese, dried fruit, pickles, and a quick snack such as simit or midye dolma. Allow about two hours, but keep some appetite for lunch. Market stalls generally become livelier from late morning and many shops close by early evening; Istanbulkart works on the ferries, though a little cash is useful for small purchases.

Lunch and afternoon: Çiya Sofrası and Yeldeğirmeni

Have lunch at Çiya Sofrası on Caferağa Mahallesi, one of the best places in Istanbul for regional Turkish cooking rather than standard kebabs. The menu changes regularly, with dishes from southeastern and eastern Turkey; expect roughly €15–25 per person, depending on how generously you order. It can be busy at lunchtime, so arriving around 12:00–12:30 helps. Afterwards, walk or take a short local bus toward Yeldeğirmeni, the neighborhood just inland from the waterfront. Spend the afternoon following its mural-covered side streets, independent cafés, old apartment blocks, and small design shops. Around 1½ hours is enough for a relaxed wander—this is a neighborhood to explore loosely rather than tick off exact sights.

Late afternoon and evening: Moda and the ferry home

Continue south toward Moda and follow the Moda seaside park along the cliff-top paths. The views across the Sea of Marmara are especially good in the late afternoon, when locals gather with takeaway tea and sunflower seeds. Walk at an easy pace toward Moda Pier, allowing around 1½ hours and pausing wherever the shoreline opens up. Finish at Ali Usta, the neighborhood’s classic ice-cream stop, for stretchy Turkish dondurma or a simpler scoop; budget about €3–7 per person. From there, return to the Kadıköy ferry pier for a sunset crossing back toward the European side. Check the electronic departure boards because the destination varies by sailing; allow 30 minutes for the crossing, plus a little extra if you are continuing onward by tram or metro.

Day 9 · Wed, Oct 7
Istanbul, Turkey

Beyoglu and waterfront neighborhoods

  1. Rahmi M. Koç Museum — Hasköy; extensive transport and industrial collections on the Golden Horn, morning ~2.5 hours.
  2. Miniatürk — Sütlüce; miniature tour of Turkey’s major landmarks, ~1.5 hours.
  3. Eyüp Sultan Mosque — Eyüp; important Ottoman religious complex, afternoon ~1 hour.
  4. Pierre Loti Hill — Eyüp; Golden Horn views reached by public cable car, ~1 hour.
  5. İstiklal Avenue dinner — Beyoğlu; return by bus and metro for a final central meal, ~€15–25 per person.

Morning: Rahmi M. Koç Museum

Start around 09:30 and take the M2 from Taksim toward Hacıosman, changing at Şişhane if convenient, then continue by bus toward Hasköy; depending on traffic, allow 30–45 minutes. Spend about 2½ hours at the Rahmi M. Koç Museum, spread through former industrial buildings beside the Golden Horn. It is especially good for transport enthusiasts, with historic cars, boats, aircraft, machinery, and hands-on displays. The museum is generally open Tuesday–Sunday, roughly 09:30–17:00, though hours can shift; admission is commonly around ₺300–500, with some exhibits or boat rides charged separately. Buy water before entering—the grounds are large, and the café is more useful for a break than for a full lunch.

Late Morning and Afternoon: Miniatürk, Eyüp Sultan Mosque, and Pierre Loti Hill

From Hasköy, walk or take a short local bus ride south along the Golden Horn to Miniatürk in Sütlüce. Allow around 1½ hours to follow the outdoor paths past miniature versions of Turkey’s major monuments; it is an easy, pleasant change of pace after the museum. Entry is usually around ₺300–500 and the site is generally open daily, approximately 09:00–19:00. Continue by bus toward Eyüp, allowing 15–25 minutes depending on traffic, and visit Eyüp Sultan Mosque and its surrounding religious complex for about an hour. Dress modestly and avoid prayer times if you want a quieter visit. From the mosque, walk to the Eyüp–Pierre Loti Teleferik station and ride the public cable car up to Pierre Loti Hill. The ride takes only a few minutes; allow roughly an hour at the top for the Golden Horn panorama and tea at the historic hilltop café. The cable car is covered by Istanbulkart, but queues can build at sunset, so do not leave the climb too late.

Evening: Dinner on İstiklal Avenue

Return downhill by cable car, then take a bus from Eyüp toward Şişhane or Taksim, using the M2 for the final stretch if traffic is slow; budget 35–60 minutes. Finish with dinner along İstiklal Avenue, choosing a side street rather than the busiest central stretch: Hayvore is a good option for Black Sea dishes, while Balkan Lokantası offers inexpensive traditional food in a simple local setting. Expect approximately €15–25 per person, depending on drinks and dishes. After dinner, walk through the quieter lanes around Asmalımescit or return directly to your hotel from Taksim; keep your Istanbulkart topped up, as buses around Eyüp can be crowded in the evening.

Day 10 · Thu, Oct 8
Istanbul, Turkey

Final Istanbul highlights

  1. Topkapı Palace — Sultanahmet; imperial courtyards, treasury, and harem, morning ~3 hours.
  2. Istanbul Archaeological Museums — Sultanahmet; outstanding ancient collections beside the palace, ~2 hours.
  3. Gülhane Park — Sultanahmet; shaded Ottoman-era gardens for a break, ~1 hour.
  4. Eminönü Spice Bazaar — Eminönü; browse spices, sweets, and local specialties, afternoon ~1 hour.
  5. Rüstem Pasha Mosque — Eminönü; beautiful İznik tilework in a compact mosque, ~45 minutes.
  6. Hamdi Restaurant — Eminönü; terrace kebabs overlooking the Golden Horn, dinner ~€20–35 per person.

Morning: Topkapı Palace

Start early at Topkapı Palace, ideally arriving around 09:00 when the courtyards are still relatively calm. From Taksim, take the M2 to Vezneciler and walk toward Sultanahmet, or use the T1 tram from Kabataş; allow around 30–40 minutes in total. Set aside about three hours for the imperial courtyards, kitchens, treasury, and Harem. The Harem requires a separate ticket, and the palace is generally closed on Tuesdays, so check the official schedule and current combined-ticket prices before going; expect roughly €25–45 depending on the sections visited. Wear comfortable shoes—the grounds are larger and hillier than they first appear.

Walk a few minutes to the Istanbul Archaeological Museums next door for about two hours. The main archaeological collection, the Museum of the Ancient Orient, and the Museum of Islamic Art together make this one of the best places in the city for understanding the civilizations that preceded Ottoman Istanbul. Afterward, take an unhurried break in Gülhane Park for about an hour. The shaded paths and benches are ideal for a drink or light snack, and this is a better place to pause than trying to fit in another major monument. If you want coffee, look for a kiosk inside the park rather than carrying something from the busy Sultanahmet square.

Afternoon and evening: Eminönü food and tiles

From Gülhane Park, walk downhill toward Eminönü in roughly 15–20 minutes, passing the waterfront and the busy ferry approaches. Spend about an hour browsing the Spice Bazaar, where the covered lanes are best for lokum, dried fruit, saffron, tea, and small edible gifts. Compare prices before buying, particularly for “saffron” and mixed spice packets, and keep some small Turkish-lira notes handy. Just outside the bazaar, find the entrance to Rüstem Pasha Mosque—it is tucked above the surrounding shops and easy to miss. Allow 45 minutes to admire its exceptional İznik tilework; remove your shoes and avoid prayer times when the mosque is especially busy.

Finish at Hamdi Restaurant, directly by the bazaar and ferry area, ideally reserving a table on the upper terrace for the Golden Horn view. Arrive around 18:30–19:00 for a relaxed dinner of kebabs, meze, and lahmacun; budget about €20–35 per person before drinks, though terrace seating and extra dishes can raise the bill. After dinner, ferries from Eminönü or the T1 tram make the return to Karaköy and Kabataş straightforward, followed by the F1 funicular to Taksim. Keep the evening gentle—the palace and museum combination is a full day on foot.

Day 11 · Fri, Oct 9
Istanbul, Turkey

Travel onward from Istanbul

  1. Taksim → Istanbul Airport — Havaist bus or M2–M11 metro, depart 3–4 hours before flight; allow ~75–100 minutes.
  2. Istanbul Airport — Arnavutköy; complete check-in, security, and departure formalities.
  3. Flight onward to Beirut — Depart Istanbul according to ticketed schedule.

Morning: Final checks in Taksim

Keep the morning light and stay near the hotel. Finish packing, check out, and confirm your flight terminal and baggage allowance before leaving Taksim. If you have time, grab breakfast from a neighborhood bakery such as Büyük Ev around Sıraselviler Caddesi, but avoid committing to a sit-down meal—you want a comfortable buffer for the airport.

For Istanbul Airport, leave your hotel 3–4 hours before the flight. The simplest option with luggage is the Havaist airport bus from Taksim, normally taking around 75–100 minutes depending on traffic; buy or check the ticket through the current Havaist app or at the stop, as schedules and fares change. The metro is a useful backup: take the M2 from Taksim toward Gayrettepe, change for the airport line M11, and allow extra time for the transfer and walking with bags.

Afternoon: Istanbul Airport

At Istanbul Airport in Arnavutköy, allow at least two hours for check-in, passport control, and security—more if you are checking luggage or travelling at a busy time. The terminal is enormous, so follow the flight-information screens rather than relying only on the initial gate shown on your boarding pass. There are cafés, Turkish food counters, lounges, pharmacies, and duty-free shops airside, but prices are noticeably higher than in central Istanbul. Keep some Turkish lira or a payment card handy for last-minute snacks and water.

Evening: Flight onward to Beirut

Take your scheduled flight from Istanbul Airport to Beirut. Keep your passport, accommodation address, and onward travel details easily accessible for arrival formalities at Beirut–Rafic Hariri International Airport. On landing, expect the airport-to-city journey to take roughly 20–45 minutes depending on traffic; since this is an arrival day rather than an evening sightseeing day, go directly to your accommodation, check in, and keep the night easy.

Day 12 · Sat, Oct 10
Beirut, Lebanon

Arrival and settling in Beirut

Getting there from Istanbul
Direct flight from Istanbul Airport (IST) to Beirut (BEY), Turkish Airlines or MEA, about 1h45–2h, typically ~₺5,000–12,000 one way. Book via the airline or Google Flights. Allow 3 hours at IST; take Havaist or M11–M2 from central Istanbul.
  1. Beirut–Rafic Hariri International Airport → Beirut — Airport bus availability is limited; use the airport-area public minibus network where operating, allowing ~45–75 minutes and confirming the route locally.
  2. Hamra Street — Hamra; settle in with cafés, bookstores, and lively city streets, afternoon ~2 hours.
  3. American University of Beirut campus — Hamra; attractive historic grounds and Mediterranean views, ~1 hour.
  4. AUB Neighborhood — Hamra; relaxed dinner at a well-reviewed Lebanese restaurant, ~€15–30 per person.
  5. Beirut Corniche — Ain El Mreisseh; sunset sea promenade, evening ~1 hour.

Arrival and settling in

After landing at Beirut–Rafic Hariri International Airport, allow about 45–75 minutes to reach Hamra, depending on immigration, traffic, and whether a local airport minibus is operating. Airport public transport can be irregular, so ask airport staff or nearby drivers where the current minibus service toward central Beirut departs and confirm the fare before boarding. If you arrive late or with substantial luggage, prioritize safety and use an officially arranged transfer rather than waiting alone outside the terminal. Check in, leave your bags, and keep the first afternoon deliberately easy.

Afternoon in Hamra

Spend around two hours wandering Hamra Street, one of Beirut’s most lively central neighborhoods. Browse the independent booksellers and small shops around Makdessi Street, then settle into a café for strong Lebanese coffee or a light man’oushe. From Hamra, walk toward the American University of Beirut campus; visitor access can vary, so carry identification and check at the main gate before entering. If access is permitted, allow about an hour for the leafy historic grounds, stone buildings, and Mediterranean views—this is a pleasant antidote to the bustle of the main street. The campus and surrounding streets are best explored on foot, though uneven pavements and busy crossings make comfortable shoes useful.

Dinner and sunset on the Corniche

Return to the AUB Neighborhood for a relaxed first dinner, ideally around 18:30–19:00. Look for a well-reviewed Lebanese restaurant on or just off Bliss Street, ordering a few mezze to share rather than one large main course; budget roughly €15–30 per person, depending on drinks and seafood. After dinner, walk downhill toward the Beirut Corniche in Ain El Mreisseh for sunset. The seafront promenade is especially atmospheric as the city lights come on, with locals strolling and fishermen gathering along the railings. Stay on the busier illuminated sections after dark, and keep small amounts of Lebanese pounds or US dollars handy for cafés and small purchases, since payment practices can vary.

Day 13 · Sun, Oct 11
Beirut, Lebanon

Central Beirut exploration

  1. Martyrs’ Square — Downtown Beirut; central civic space and a useful starting point, morning ~30 minutes.
  2. Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque — Downtown; striking blue-domed landmark, ~45 minutes.
  3. Roman Baths — Downtown; visible ancient remains among modern streets, ~30 minutes.
  4. Saint George Maronite Cathedral — Downtown; historic cathedral beside the mosque, ~30 minutes.
  5. Beirut Souks — Downtown; modern shopping district built around the historic center, ~1 hour.
  6. Em Sherif — Downtown; refined Lebanese dining, dinner ~€35–60 per person.

Morning: Martyrs’ Square and central Beirut

Start around 09:30 at Martyrs’ Square, the natural meeting point between Downtown Beirut, Saifi Village, and the reconstructed souks. Give yourself about 30 minutes to look at the Martyrs’ Monument and the surrounding streets; the square is more atmospheric in the morning, before traffic and tour groups build up. From Hamra, walk via Fakhry Bey Street or take a short local bus toward Downtown—routes and fares change frequently, so confirm with your accommodation before leaving. Walking is easiest once you are in the center, but expect uneven pavements and occasional security checks around major public buildings.

Continue on foot to the Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque, whose enormous blue domes and four minarets dominate the skyline. Allow around 45 minutes, but check the entrance situation on arrival, as prayer times and religious events can temporarily limit access. Dress modestly—covered shoulders and knees—and remove your shoes if asked. Just beside it, visit the Roman Baths, an open-air archaeological site tucked between modern offices and government buildings; 30 minutes is enough to appreciate the preserved columns, paving, and foundations without rushing.

Afternoon: Cathedrals and the reconstructed center

Walk a few minutes to Saint George Maronite Cathedral, directly beside the mosque. The contrast between the two buildings is one of the most memorable details of central Beirut, and the cathedral’s interior is usually quiet and cool compared with the streets outside. Allow about 30 minutes, while being respectful if a service is underway. Then spend roughly an hour browsing Beirut Souks. This is a polished, modern shopping district rather than a traditional bazaar, but it is useful for a coffee, air-conditioning, restrooms, and a look at how the historic commercial center has been rebuilt. Wander around Allenby Street and Fakhry Bey Street, keeping an eye out for small design shops and cafés rather than treating it only as a shopping stop.

Evening: Dinner at Em Sherif

Reserve Em Sherif in advance for dinner, ideally for around 19:30–20:00. It is a refined Lebanese restaurant in the Downtown area, known for an elaborate sequence of mezze and regional dishes rather than a quick à-la-carte meal. Budget approximately €35–60 per person before drinks, and allow at least two hours; portions are generous, so arrive hungry and let the staff guide the order. After dinner, walk through the quieter central streets toward Martyrs’ Square or the waterfront for a short night stroll. Keep valuables discreet and use a reputable local taxi or a hotel-arranged car if you do not want to walk back to Hamra; Beirut’s public transport becomes less predictable later in the evening.

Day 14 · Mon, Oct 12
Beirut, Lebanon

Beirut waterfront and Gemmayzeh

  1. Zaitunay Bay — Beirut waterfront; marina promenade and morning coffee, ~1 hour, ~€5–12 per person.
  2. Ain El Mreisseh — Coast; scenic seafront walk toward the Corniche, ~1 hour.
  3. Sursock Museum — Achrafieh; excellent modern and contemporary art in a mansion, ~1.5 hours.
  4. St. Nicholas Stairs — Gemmayzeh; colorful historic stairway and photo stop, ~30 minutes.
  5. Gemmayzeh — Gemmayzeh; restored buildings, galleries, and independent bars, evening ~2 hours.
  6. Lebanese restaurant in Gemmayzeh — Gemmayzeh; mezze dinner, ~€15–30 per person.

Morning: Zaitunay Bay and Ain El Mreisseh

Start around 09:00 at Zaitunay Bay, reached from Hamra by a local bus toward Downtown Beirut or a shared taxi heading along the waterfront. The marina promenade is at its nicest before the midday heat and evening crowds. Have coffee and a light breakfast at Paul Zaitunay Bay or one of the marina cafés; allow about an hour and expect roughly €5–12. Then walk west along the seafront toward Ain El Mreisseh, following the coast and joining the Corniche. This is an easy, atmospheric walk of about an hour, with fishing boats, apartment blocks, and broad views toward the Mediterranean. Wear comfortable shoes and carry water—the pavement can be uneven, and shade is limited.

Afternoon: Sursock Museum

From Ain El Mreisseh, take a shared taxi or local bus inland toward Achrafieh, allowing around 20–30 minutes depending on traffic. Spend roughly 1½ hours at the Sursock Museum, one of Beirut’s most rewarding art stops: the restored Ottoman-era mansion itself is beautiful, while the exhibitions focus on Lebanese, Arab, and international modern and contemporary art. Check the museum’s current opening day and exhibition schedule before setting out, as hours can change; admission is often free or modestly priced. For lunch, pause at a café in Achrafieh rather than rushing straight onward—this keeps the afternoon relaxed and gives you time to browse the quieter side streets around Sursock Street.

Evening: St. Nicholas Stairs and Gemmayzeh

Walk downhill from the museum toward St. Nicholas Stairs, a colorful historic staircase linking Achrafieh with Gemmayzeh. Allow about 30 minutes for photographs and a slow descent; the stairs and surrounding buildings are more atmospheric than polished, so take care on worn steps. Continue into Gemmayzeh for an unhurried evening among restored stone façades, small galleries, design shops, and independent bars. Set aside about two hours to wander along Gouraud Street and the neighboring lanes, stopping wherever the mood takes you. Finish with Lebanese mezze at Tawlet Beirut or Em Sherif Café—order several small plates to share, such as hummus, moutabbal, tabbouleh, grilled halloumi, and kibbeh, budgeting roughly €15–30 per person. For the return to Hamra, use a shared taxi or a local bus before late-night service becomes less predictable.

Day 15 · Tue, Oct 13
Byblos, Lebanon

Byblos day trip

Getting there from Beirut
Northbound shared taxi or minibus from Charles Helou terminal, about 1–1.5 hours, ~US$3–8. Confirm the destination and fare locally. Depart around 08:00.
  1. Beirut → Byblos — Take a northbound intercity bus or shared service from Charles Helou area, depart around 08:00; allow ~1–1.5 hours.
  2. Byblos Archaeological Site — Old Byblos; one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, morning ~2 hours.
  3. Byblos Castle — Old Byblos; Crusader fortress overlooking ancient ruins, ~45 minutes.
  4. Byblos Old Souk — Old Byblos; atmospheric stone lanes and craft shops, ~1 hour.
  5. Byblos fishing harbor — Harbor; scenic waterfront and seafood lunch, ~€15–30 per person.
  6. Byblos → Beirut — Return by northbound-to-southbound bus or shared service, early evening, ~1–1.5 hours.

Morning: Byblos Archaeological Site

Leave Beirut around 08:00 from the Charles Helou area and ask for a service to Jbeil—the Arabic name used locally for Byblos. Allow roughly 1–1½ hours, depending on coastal traffic, and confirm the fare before boarding; shared services usually cost around US$3–8. Get off near the town center, then walk toward the harbor and the entrance to the Byblos Archaeological Site. Arriving early is worthwhile: the ruins are quieter, and the late-September sun is still manageable. Allow about two hours to explore the Phoenician remains, Roman colonnades, ancient fortifications, and layers of settlement that make this one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities. Entry is commonly around US$6–10, though ticketing and opening times can change.

Late Morning and Lunch: Byblos Castle, Souk, and the Harbor

Continue within the archaeological area to Byblos Castle, the sturdy Crusader fortress overlooking the ruins. Spend around 45 minutes on the terraces and upper levels—the best views are across the old town and toward the Mediterranean. From there, a few minutes on foot brings you into the Byblos Old Souk, where the honey-colored stone lanes are ideal for an unhurried hour of browsing. Look for small craft shops, local ceramics, jewelry, and traditional sweets rather than rushing through the souvenir stalls. Then walk downhill to the Byblos fishing harbor for lunch. Choose a waterside seafood restaurant and expect roughly €15–30 per person; ask what was caught that day, and allow extra time for a slow meal overlooking the boats.

Afternoon and Return to Beirut

Keep the afternoon flexible for another turn through the harbor and old lanes, or a coffee near the Byblos waterfront before returning to the main road. For the journey back, walk or take a short local service to the bus and shared-taxi area, then look for a southbound vehicle toward Beirut; confirm that it is heading to the Charles Helou side or central Beirut before boarding. Depart in the late afternoon rather than waiting until after dark, as services can become less frequent and coastal traffic is unpredictable. The return normally takes about 1–1½ hours, but leave a generous buffer if you have an evening commitment.

Day 16 · Wed, Oct 14
Batroun, Lebanon

Batroun coastal day trip

Getting there from Byblos
Private taxi or ride-hailing car via the coastal highway, about 20–30 minutes, ~US$15–25. Public buses are possible but infrequent; arrange the taxi the day before and depart early.
  1. Beirut → Batroun — Northbound intercity bus or shared service from Charles Helou, depart around 08:00; allow ~1.5–2 hours.
  2. Batroun Old Souk — Batroun; explore stone lanes, churches, and traditional houses, morning ~1.5 hours.
  3. Phoenician Wall — Batroun waterfront; distinctive ancient sea wall, ~30 minutes.
  4. St. Stephen’s Cathedral — Batroun; prominent historic church near the harbor, ~30 minutes.
  5. Batroun harbor seafood lunch — Harbor; fresh fish and mezze, ~€15–30 per person.
  6. Batroun → Beirut — Return by intercity bus or shared service in the late afternoon, ~1.5–2 hours.

Morning: Batroun Old Souk

After arriving in Batroun in the morning, begin in the Batroun Old Souk, where pale stone lanes run between traditional houses, small boutiques, and old churches. Give yourself about 1½ hours to wander without a strict route; the streets around Madayen Street and the old town are especially pleasant before the day-trippers arrive. Most small shops open gradually from around 9:00, while cafés usually start serving earlier. A coffee or fresh juice should cost roughly US$2–5.

Walk downhill toward the waterfront for the Phoenician Wall, the town’s most distinctive landmark. The ancient sea wall is best seen from the shore and takes about 30 minutes, with good views back toward the old houses and fishing harbor. Continue a few minutes to St. Stephen’s Cathedral, a prominent historic church near the harbor. Dress modestly if you go inside, and check locally whether the doors are open for visitors; a small donation is appropriate where requested.

Lunch and return to Beirut

Have lunch along Batroun Harbor, choosing a simple seafood restaurant with fish displayed or described in the catch of the day. Order a selection of mezze with grilled fish or calamari rather than committing too early to a large platter; allow about €15–30 per person, depending on the seafood and drinks. Taiga Restaurant or Chez Maguy are useful names to ask about locally, but compare the day’s catch and prices before sitting down. Keep lunch relaxed, then enjoy one final harbor walk before arranging your return service.

Aim to leave Batroun in the late afternoon, ideally around 16:00–17:00, from the main coastal-road service area rather than waiting deep inside the old town. The shared service back to Beirut generally takes about 1½–2 hours, with traffic often heaviest approaching the city. Confirm the fare and destination before boarding, and keep some Lebanese pounds or small US-dollar notes available; schedules can be informal, so ask at the harbor or your accommodation earlier in the day about the latest reliable departure.

Day 17 · Thu, Oct 15
Tripoli, Lebanon

Tripoli historic center

Getting there from Batroun
Northbound shared taxi or minibus via the coastal highway, about 45–75 minutes, ~US$3–8. Ask locally for service toward Tripoli and leave around 08:00.
  1. Beirut → Tripoli — Northbound bus or shared service from Charles Helou, depart around 08:00; allow ~2 hours.
  2. Tripoli Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles — Historic Tripoli; commanding Crusader-era fortress, morning ~1.5 hours.
  3. Al-Mina — Tripoli port district; sea views and a calmer coastal walk, ~1 hour.
  4. Tripoli souks — Old Tripoli; discover Mamluk-era markets and workshops, afternoon ~2 hours.
  5. Taynal Mosque — Tripoli; atmospheric historic mosque with layered architecture, ~45 minutes.
  6. Tripoli sweets shop — Old city; sample famous Tripoli baklava and Arabic sweets, ~€5–10 per person.

Morning: Tripoli Citadel

After arriving in Tripoli from Beirut, make the Tripoli Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles your first stop. From the drop-off near the city center, it is a short walk or inexpensive local service uphill to the fortress. Allow about 1½ hours to explore the Crusader-era walls, Ottoman additions, and broad views over the old city and the Abu Ali River. The citadel generally opens in the morning, but hours can vary; carry small cash and wear shoes with a good grip, as the stone surfaces are uneven. Entry is usually inexpensive, around US$2–5.

Late Morning: Al-Mina

Continue toward Al-Mina, the port district, by local bus or shared taxi; allow roughly 20–30 minutes depending on traffic. This is a good change of pace after the fortress: stroll along the waterfront, watch the fishing boats, and take a quiet break near the sea. The district is more relaxed than the old center, and cafés around Mina Corniche are suitable for coffee or a light mezze lunch. Keep the stop to about an hour so you have plenty of time for the souks later.

Afternoon: Tripoli’s souks and Taynal Mosque

Return to the old city for the Tripoli souks, where covered passages lead past soap workshops, copperware, spices, tailors, and small bakeries. Start around the lanes near Khan al-Saboun, then drift toward Khan al-Khayyatin and the surrounding Mamluk-era market streets. Allow two hours, but do not try to force a route—the pleasure is in following whichever open lane looks interesting. From the souks, walk or take a short local ride to Taynal Mosque, an atmospheric historic building with striking layered architecture. Dress modestly, remove your shoes where requested, and check whether prayer is taking place before entering; set aside about 45 minutes.

Evening: Tripoli sweets

Finish in the old city at a traditional Tripoli sweets shop, choosing a busy counter rather than a quiet tourist-facing café. Try hot ashta pastries, baklava, or knafeh, ideally with Arabic coffee or tea. A generous tasting usually costs about €5–10 per person. Famous names such as Hallab 1881 are reliable, though smaller neighborhood shops can be just as enjoyable. Keep some Lebanese pounds or small US-dollar notes for buses, short rides, and sweets, and check your return connection to Beirut before settling in for the evening, as services become less frequent later in the day.

Day 18 · Fri, Oct 16
Baalbek, Lebanon

Baalbek heritage day trip

Getting there from Tripoli
Private car with driver via Zahle and the Bekaa Valley, about 2.5–3.5 hours, roughly US$70–120 per car. Book through the hotel or a trusted local taxi. Depart 06:30–07:00; public transport requires multiple connections and is not practical for a day visit.
  1. Beirut → Baalbek — Take an early bus or shared service via Zahle from Cola or another main terminal; depart around 06:30–07:00 and allow ~3 hours.
  2. Baalbek Roman Temples — Baalbek; Lebanon’s most spectacular Roman monumental complex, late morning ~2.5 hours.
  3. Baalbek stone quarries — Near the temples; see the enormous ancient foundation stones, ~45 minutes.
  4. Baalbek old town — Central Baal; local streets and a simple lunch, ~1 hour, ~€8–15 per person.
  5. Baalbek → Beirut — Return by bus or shared service, depart around 15:30–16:00; allow ~3 hours.

Early Morning: Arrive in Baalbek

Allow the early journey from Tripoli to take roughly 3–3½ hours via Zahle and the Bekaa Valley, so aim to leave around 06:30–07:00. Public transport connections are awkward on this route; a pre-arranged car with driver is the realistic option, usually around US$70–120 per car. Ask to be dropped near Baalbek Roman Temples, and carry cash in Lebanese pounds or small-dollar notes for entry fees, snacks, and local services.

Late Morning: Baalbek Roman Temples and the quarries

Begin with the monumental Baalbek Roman Temples, allowing about 2½ hours. The Temple of Jupiter, Temple of Bacchus, and Temple of Venus are best appreciated slowly—look closely at the enormous columns and carved stonework rather than rushing between viewpoints. Opening hours and ticket prices can change, but plan on roughly US$5–10 per person and arrive before midday, when the exposed site becomes very hot. Wear sturdy shoes, bring water, and use the official ticket entrance rather than accepting unsolicited “guides” outside.

After the temples, take a short local ride or walk toward the Baalbek stone quarries, where the scale of the ancient foundation blocks becomes even clearer. Allow around 45 minutes; conditions are rougher than at the main archaeological site, so avoid climbing unstable edges and ask your driver to wait or return at an agreed time.

Afternoon: Baalbek old town and lunch

Spend about an hour in Baalbek old town, wandering the central streets around Ba’al Square and choosing a simple local lunch—grilled chicken, shawarma, hummus, or mezze is the practical choice. Expect approximately €8–15 per person, depending on the restaurant and drinks. Keep this stop unhurried: the town is more atmospheric in its ordinary details than as a formal sightseeing circuit, with bakeries, small groceries, and locals going about their day.

Late Afternoon: Return to Beirut

Leave Baalbek around 15:30–16:00 for the return to Beirut, again allowing roughly three hours and extra time for traffic near the capital. If you are using a private driver, confirm the total return fare before setting out and keep the driver’s phone number saved. Carry water for the ride; the Bekaa route can feel tiring after a hot day outdoors, and arrival in Beirut may be closer to early evening than the nominal travel time suggests.

Day 19 · Sat, Oct 17
Zahle, Lebanon

Zahle and Bekaa Valley

Getting there from Baalbek
Shared taxi or minibus via the Bekaa Valley, about 45–75 minutes, ~US$3–8. Confirm the route locally and depart in the morning.
  1. Beirut → Zahle — Bus or shared service via the Bekaa route, depart around 08:00; allow ~2–2.5 hours.
  2. Zahle Berdawni River — Zahle; pleasant riverside walk through the city, morning ~1 hour3. Our Lady of Zahle and Bekaa — Zahle hilltop; panoramic views across the valley, ~1 hour.
  3. Zahle old souk — Zahle; local shops and traditional urban character, ~1 hour.
  4. Zahle riverside restaurant — Berdawni area; Lebanese mezze and grilled meat, ~€15–30 per person.
  5. Zahle → Beirut — Return by bus or shared service in the late afternoon, ~2–2.5 hours.

Morning: Berdawni River

After arriving in Zahle, begin at the Berdawni River, the city’s most pleasant stretch for a gentle morning walk. Follow the riverside for about an hour, passing shaded terraces, small bridges, and the restaurants that make Zahle famous with Lebanese visitors. The city is much quieter before lunch, so this is a good time to enjoy the atmosphere without the evening crowds. Bring some Lebanese pounds or small US-dollar notes for coffee and snacks; card payment is not always reliable at smaller cafés.

Late Morning: Our Lady of Zahle and Bekaa

From the river, take a local service or shared taxi up to Our Lady of Zahle and Bekaa, allowing roughly 10–15 minutes depending on traffic. The hilltop tower and basilica offer one of the best views in the Bekaa Valley, stretching across vineyards, farmland, and the surrounding mountains. Entry is generally free or inexpensive, though opening arrangements can vary; allow about an hour and dress respectfully. Return downhill toward the center for the Zahle old souk, where you can spend another hour browsing traditional shops and wandering the older lanes around the central market.

Lunch and Return to Beirut

Have lunch along the Berdawni at a riverside restaurant such as Casino Arabi, a long-established local choice for Lebanese mezze, grilled meat, and salads. Expect roughly €15–30 per person depending on what you order; ask for a selection of mezze to share rather than ordering too much at once. After lunch, leave Zahle in the late afternoon from the local transport area, confirming that the bus or shared service is heading directly toward Beirut. Allow around 2–2½ hours for the return, with traffic potentially heavier as you approach the capital.

Day 20 · Sun, Oct 18
Sidon, Lebanon

Sidon old city

Getting there from Zahle
Private car with driver via Beirut, about 2.5–3.5 hours, roughly US$70–120 per car. Book through your hotel. This route has no simple direct public connection; depart around 07:00–08:00.
  1. Beirut → Sidon — Southbound bus or shared service from Cola, depart around 08:00; allow ~1–1.5 hours.
  2. Sidon Sea Castle — Sidon harbor; Crusader fortress dramatically set offshore, morning ~1 hour.
  3. Sidon Soap Museum — Old Sidon; learn about the city’s traditional soap-making craft, ~1 hour.
  4. Sidon old souks — Old city; atmospheric covered lanes and workshops, ~1.5 hours.
  5. Khan el-Franj — Old Sidon; historic caravanserai and cultural landmark, ~45 minutes.
  6. Sidon harbor fish lunch — Harbor; casual seafood meal, ~€10–20 per person.

Morning: Sidon Sea Castle

If you are coming from Zahle, arrange your driver the evening before and leave around 07:00–07:30; the journey via Beirut can take 2½–3½ hours, and traffic around the capital is the main variable. Ask to be dropped near Sidon harbor, rather than at the inland bus areas. Begin at Sidon Sea Castle, the Crusader fortress standing just offshore at the harbor entrance. Allow about an hour to climb through the stone arches and towers—go early for softer light, cooler temperatures, and better views back toward the old city. Entry is usually inexpensive, around US$2–5, though opening hours and ticket arrangements can vary.

Late Morning: Sidon Soap Museum and the old souks

Walk inland through the harbor quarter to the Sidon Soap Museum, housed in a beautifully restored traditional building in the old city. Spend roughly an hour learning how olive-oil soap was made, shaped, scented, and stored; it is a small museum, but one of the most distinctive stops in Sidon. It generally opens during daytime hours, often around 08:00 or 09:00, with a modest entry fee. From there, let yourself wander through the Sidon old souks for about 1½ hours. The covered lanes around Hammam Street are atmospheric and practical rather than polished, with spice sellers, tailors, sweets shops, and small workshops. Keep some Lebanese pounds or small US-dollar notes for purchases, and be prepared for occasional uneven paving.

Afternoon: Khan el-Franj and harbor lunch

Continue on foot to Khan el-Franj, the historic caravanserai built around a spacious courtyard. Allow about 45 minutes to look around and enjoy the contrast between its quiet arcades and the busier market lanes outside. It is worth pausing here rather than rushing straight to lunch; the courtyard gives you a good sense of Sidon’s former role as a trading port. Finish at the Sidon harbor fish restaurants, choosing a busy, plainly presented place where the day’s catch is displayed or clearly explained. A casual meal with grilled fish, mezze, and bread should cost roughly €10–20 per person, depending on the fish. After lunch, leave a little time for a final waterfront stroll before meeting your pre-arranged driver for the return toward Zahle; agree the pickup point and total fare in advance, since the return journey via Beirut can easily stretch beyond three hours in afternoon traffic.

Day 21 · Mon, Oct 19
Tyre, Lebanon

Tyre coastal heritage

Getting there from Sidon
Southbound shared taxi or minibus along the coastal highway, about 1–1.5 hours, ~US$3–8. Depart around 07:30–08:00; services are generally easier to find near Sidon’s main transport areas.
  1. Beirut → Tyre — Southbound bus or shared service from Cola, depart around 07:30–08:00; allow ~2 hours.
  2. Tyre Al-Bass Archaeological Site — Al-Bass; Roman colonnade, necropolis, and hippodrome, morning ~2 hours.
  3. Tyre Roman Hippodrome — Al-Bass; one of the best-preserved ancient circuses in the region, ~45 minutes.
  4. Tyre old harbor — Tyre peninsula; walk among fishing boats and waterfront cafés, ~1 hour.
  5. Tyre old souks — Old city; explore local lanes and shops, ~1 hour.
  6. Tyre seafood lunch — Harbor area; fresh catch and mezze, ~€15–30 per person, then return to Beirut by bus.

Morning: Al-Bass Archaeological Site

If you are coming from Sidon, leave around 07:30–08:00 and ask for a southbound service to Tyre or Sour. Allow roughly 1–1½ hours, with traffic and the exact drop-off point affecting the timing. From the main road, take a short local service or walk toward Al-Bass; go first to the Tyre Al-Bass Archaeological Site, ideally before the heat builds. Allow about two hours for the Roman colonnade, monumental necropolis, and broad open grounds. The entrance fee is usually modest, but opening hours and ticket arrangements can change, so carry Lebanese cash and avoid arriving too late in the day.

The Tyre Roman Hippodrome is within the same archaeological area, so continue there rather than retracing your steps. Set aside about 45 minutes to appreciate the enormous oval track and imagine the chariot races that once drew crowds from across the Roman world. Wear sturdy shoes, bring water, and use the site’s limited shade; this is one of those places where a hat matters more than a rushed itinerary.

Afternoon: Tyre harbor, souks, and seafood

From Al-Bass, take a local minibus toward the peninsula or walk if the weather is comfortable. Begin your wandering at the Tyre old harbor, where fishing boats, nets, and small waterfront cafés give the city a more lived-in feel than the archaeological site. Continue through the Tyre old souks, following the narrow lanes around the old city rather than trying to cover every street. Look for small bakeries, soap and spice shops, and quiet stone courtyards; this is a good place to slow down and browse rather than shop with a checklist.

Have lunch near the harbor at Fahd Restaurant or another busy fish restaurant recommended by locals that day. Order according to the catch—grilled fish, calamari, prawns, and mezze are usually safer choices than selecting an expensive item from a displayed platter without confirming the price. Budget about €15–30 per person, keep some Lebanese pounds or US dollars in small denominations, and allow at least an hour for the meal. For the return, walk back toward the main transport area and take a northbound shared service to Beirut; aim to leave by mid-afternoon, since the coastal highway can slow considerably and services become less predictable later in the day.

Day 22 · Tue, Oct 20
Beiteddine, Lebanon

Chouf Mountains and Beiteddine

Getting there from Tyre
Private car with driver via Sidon, Damour, and the Chouf, about 2.5–3.5 hours, roughly US$70–120 per car. Arrange in advance; public transport requires several changes. Depart around 07:00–07:30.
  1. Beirut → Beiteddine — Bus toward Deir el-Qamar via Damour or an available Chouf shared service; depart around 07:30 and allow ~2–3 hours with a connection.
  2. Beiteddine Palace — Beiteddine; Lebanon’s grandest Ottoman-era palace complex, morning ~2 hours.
  3. Moussa Castle — Near Beiteddine; eccentric handmade castle and regional curiosity, ~1 hour.
  4. Beiteddine village lunch — Chouf; Lebanese home-style meal, ~€15–25 per person.
  5. Beiteddine → Beirut — Return by shared service or bus in the late afternoon, allow ~2–3 hours.

Morning: Beiteddine Palace

Depart Beirut around 07:30 for the Chouf, allowing roughly 2–3 hours with the planned shared-service connection via Damour or Deir el-Qamar. Chouf transport can be irregular, so confirm the exact departure point and connection the evening before, and carry small Lebanese-pound notes. Aim to reach Beiteddine by late morning, then spend about two hours at Beiteddine Palace. The palace complex is at its most atmospheric before the afternoon heat, with arcaded courtyards, carved stonework, reception halls, and the famous mosaics. Check the current opening hours and admission at the entrance—hours and ticket arrangements can change seasonally—and dress modestly for this historic site.

Afternoon: Moussa Castle and lunch

From Beiteddine Palace, take a short local ride or walk with your driver toward Moussa Castle, near the main Chouf road. Allow about an hour for this unusual, handmade castle, built over decades by Moussa Abdel Karim Al-Maamari and filled with historical tableaux and personal memorabilia. It is more eccentric than polished, which is precisely the appeal; the hillside views are also worth lingering over. Afterwards, return to Beiteddine village for a relaxed Lebanese home-style lunch. Ask locally for a family-run restaurant serving mezze, kibbeh, grilled meats, and seasonal vegetables; budget around €15–25 per person, and allow time for a leisurely meal rather than trying to rush back onto the road.

Late afternoon: return to Beirut

Begin the return journey in the late afternoon, ideally no later than 16:00, using a shared service or bus toward Damour and onward to Beirut. Allow 2–3 hours, since the mountain road, connections, and Beirut traffic can all slow the trip. If the last connection is unclear, ask your lunch host to confirm the correct stop before leaving; services may thin out later in the day. Keep some flexibility in the evening and avoid planning anything ticketed after your expected arrival.

Day 23 · Wed, Oct 21
Deir el Qamar, Lebanon

Deir el Qamar village

Getting there from Beiteddine
Taxi or hotel-arranged private car, about 10–15 minutes, ~US$10–20. Public transport is unreliable for this short mountain connection; arrange the ride locally the previous day.
  1. Deir el-Qamar historic center — Chouf; picturesque former mountain capital with stone architecture, morning ~1.5 hours.
  2. Fakhreddine Mosque — Deir el-Qamar; one of Lebanon’s oldest mosques, ~30 minutes.
  3. Church of Saidet et Talle — Deir el-Qamar; important historic church above the village, ~45 minutes.
  4. Deir el-Qamar souk — Village center; browse crafts and traditional houses, ~1 hour.
  5. Mountain village restaurant — Deir el-Qamar; leisurely Lebanese lunch, ~€15–25 per person.
  6. Deir el-Qamar → Beirut — Return by shared service or bus, mid-afternoon, ~2–3 hours.

Morning: Deir el-Qamar Historic Center

From Beiteddine, arrange a short hotel-booked car or taxi to Deir el-Qamar—the winding mountain road takes about 10–15 minutes. Ask to be dropped near the village center, where the old stone houses and quiet lanes are best explored on foot. Spend roughly 1½ hours wandering around Deir el-Qamar historic center, looking for carved doorways, red-tiled roofs, and shaded courtyards. The village is most atmospheric before late-morning visitors arrive; wear shoes with good grip, as the old paving can be uneven.

Continue to Fakhreddine Mosque, a compact historic landmark with a distinctive octagonal minaret and an important place in Lebanon’s religious history. Allow about 30 minutes, but check locally whether the interior is open, as access can depend on the caretaker. A short uphill walk then brings you to the Church of Saidet et Talle, set above the village. Give yourself around 45 minutes here for the church and the views across the Chouf; modest clothing is appreciated, and services may limit sightseeing access.

Afternoon: Souk and Mountain Lunch

Return downhill through the Deir el-Qamar souk, allowing about an hour to browse small craft shops and admire the traditional houses around the lanes. This is a good place to pause for coffee or pick up local sweets, olive-oil products, or handmade souvenirs; opening hours are relaxed, so some shops may not open fully until late morning. For lunch, choose a family-run mountain restaurant in or just outside the village and order slowly—mezze, kibbeh, grilled meats, and seasonal salads are ideal for sharing. Budget around €15–25 per person, excluding drinks; ask your driver or accommodation for the day’s best open restaurant rather than relying on a fixed online listing.

Mid-Afternoon: Return to Beirut

Aim to leave Deir el-Qamar around 14:30–15:00. Shared services toward Beirut may require returning first toward Damour or another main-road connection, while a pre-arranged car is simpler and generally takes about 2–3 hours depending on traffic. Confirm the pickup point and fare before setting out, and avoid leaving too late: mountain connections become less predictable in the afternoon, and traffic into Beirut can build quickly.

Day 24 · Thu, Oct 22
Jounieh, Lebanon

Jeita and Harissa day trip

Getting there from Deir el Qamar
Private car with driver via Damour and Beirut, about 2–3 hours depending on traffic, roughly US$60–100 per car. Book through your accommodation and depart around 06:30–07:00 for Jeita Grotto.
  1. Beirut → Jounieh — Northbound bus or shared service from Charles Helou, depart around 07:30; allow ~45–75 minutes.
  2. Jeita Grotto — Jeita; spectacular limestone caverns reached by public transport plus the site shuttle, morning ~2 hours.
  3. Harissa cable car — Jounieh; ride the Téléférique for sweeping bay views, ~1.5 hours.
  4. Our Lady of Lebanon — Harissa; iconic hilltop shrine and viewpoint, ~45 minutes.
  5. Jounieh old souk — Jounieh; stroll historic lanes before lunch, ~1 hour.
  6. Jounieh waterfront restaurant — Jounieh; seafood lunch, ~€15–30 per person, then return to Beirut by bus.

Early morning: Jeita Grotto

The practical way to do this day is to leave Beirut around 07:30 from the Charles Helou area on a northbound bus or shared service toward Jounieh, allowing 45–75 minutes in morning traffic. Ask to be dropped for Jeita or near the access road, then use the site’s shuttle connection up to the caves. Arrive as close to opening as possible—usually around 09:00, though hours and ticket arrangements can change seasonally. Allow about two hours for the lower and upper caverns; the cable car, train, and boat operations may vary, and photography is generally restricted inside. Wear shoes with a good grip, since the paths can be damp. From Jeita Grotto, continue toward Jounieh for the Téléférique; depending on the connection, a short local taxi may be the only practical link from the grotto entrance to the lower cable-car station.

Late morning: Harissa and the coast

Take the Téléférique up to Harissa, one of Lebanon’s best short rides: the cabins climb sharply above Jounieh Bay, with views stretching along the coast toward Beirut on a clear day. Set aside about 1½ hours for the ride and viewpoint, then walk to Our Lady of Lebanon, the white Marian statue and hilltop shrine. The terrace is the real reward, especially before the afternoon haze and heavier visitor groups; dress modestly inside the shrine area. After descending, head into Jounieh old souk for an unhurried walk through the stone lanes and older houses. It is a good place to browse small shops and pause for Lebanese coffee rather than trying to add another major sight.

Lunch and return to Beirut

Have a late seafood lunch along the Jounieh waterfront, choosing a busy restaurant with a visible local crowd and asking about the catch of the day. Expect roughly €15–30 per person for a straightforward seafood meal, more if you order a large grilled fish or mezze spread. After lunch, walk back toward the main road or the local transport area and take a southbound bus or shared service to Beirut; allow at least 1–1½ hours, since the coastal highway can slow dramatically in the afternoon. Keep some Lebanese pounds or small-dollar notes for short rides, confirm the destination before boarding, and avoid waiting until late evening when services become less frequent.

Day 25 · Fri, Oct 23
Beirut, Lebanon

Final Beirut neighborhoods

Getting there from Jounieh
Shared taxi or minibus southbound along the coastal highway, about 30–60 minutes, ~US$2–6. Depart after the morning in Jounieh; allow extra time for heavy traffic.
  1. Mar Mikhael — Beirut; colorful former industrial district with galleries and cafés, morning ~1.5 hours.
  2. Armenian Genocide Orphans’ Aram Bezikian Museum — Mar Mikhael; small museum focused on Armenian heritage, ~1 hour.
  3. Beirut Art Center — Jisr El Basha; contemporary exhibitions in a striking converted space, ~1.5 hours.
  4. Badaro — Badaro; relaxed neighborhood streets and cafés, afternoon ~1.5 hours.
  5. Tawlet — Mar Mikhael; communal Lebanese regional cooking, lunch or dinner ~€20–35 per person.
  6. Beirut Corniche farewell walk — Ain El Mreisseh; final Mediterranean sunset, evening ~1 hour.

Late Morning: Mar Mikhael and Armenian heritage

After returning from Jounieh, allow time for coastal traffic and aim to begin in Mar Mikhael around 11:00–11:30. This former industrial quarter is best explored slowly: wander along Armenia Street and the quieter lanes behind it, where old warehouses, colorful shutters, small galleries, and independent cafés sit beside newer creative spaces. Spend about 1½ hours here, keeping the pace relaxed after the morning’s excursion.

Continue on foot to the Armenian Genocide Orphans’ Aram Bezikian Museum, a small, personal museum devoted to the history of Armenian survivors and the orphanage established in Bourj Hammoud. Allow roughly an hour, and check opening days and hours before setting out, as smaller museums in Beirut can have irregular schedules. For lunch, settle at Tawlet in Mar Mikhael if it is serving that day; its communal Lebanese regional cooking is one of the city’s most worthwhile meals, usually around €20–35 per person. Reserve ahead where possible, particularly for lunch.

Afternoon: Contemporary art and Badaro

From Mar Mikhael, take a local bus or shared taxi toward Jisr El Basha, allowing roughly 20–30 minutes depending on traffic, and visit the Beirut Art Center. Its exhibitions change regularly, so check the current program and opening hours in advance; plan for about 1½ hours in the converted industrial space. From there, continue by bus or shared taxi toward Badaro, usually another 15–25 minutes. Spend the afternoon strolling along Badaro Street and the surrounding residential lanes, stopping at one of the neighborhood cafés for coffee or something sweet. It is a good final Beirut neighborhood for an unhurried wander rather than another packed sightseeing stop.

Evening: Beirut Corniche farewell

As the light softens, take a shared taxi toward Ain El Mreisseh and finish with a walk along the Beirut Corniche. Follow the seafront toward Manara, where locals gather for the sunset and fishermen work along the rocks; allow about an hour and bring a light layer, as the breeze can pick up after dark. This is the simplest, most atmospheric farewell to the city—Mediterranean horizon, evening walkers, and Beirut’s lights coming on behind you. Keep the rest of the night easy, with your bags packed for the airport and your flight details checked before turning in.

Day 26 · Sat, Oct 24
Beirut, Lebanon

Return from Beirut to Istanbul

  1. Beirut → Beirut–Rafic Hariri International Airport — Use the airport-area public minibus network where operating; depart 3–4 hours before the flight and allow ~45–75 minutes.
  2. Airport check-in and departure — Beirut Airport; complete check-in, security, and border procedures.
  3. Flight to Istanbul — Depart Beirut according to the ticketed schedule.

Early morning: Beirut to Beirut–Rafic Hariri International Airport

Keep this morning purely practical. Check out, settle any hotel bill, and leave Beirut three to four hours before your scheduled departure—allow 45–75 minutes for the airport journey, with heavier traffic possible on the coastal road and around Dawra. If the airport-area public minibus network is operating, ask locally for the service toward Beirut Airport and confirm the fare and drop-off point before boarding. Services can be informal and change by time of day, so do not rely on catching the very last possible vehicle; if no suitable minibus appears, ask your accommodation about the safest shared local option.

At Beirut–Rafic Hariri International Airport

At the airport, allow extra time for airline check-in, baggage drop, security, passport control, and any additional document checks required for your flight. Keep your passport, boarding pass, and onward travel details easily accessible, and avoid leaving the terminal once airside procedures are complete. The airport has cafés and basic food outlets, but prices are higher than in town, so carry water and a small snack from Beirut if you have room in your hand luggage.

Flight to Istanbul

Proceed to your assigned gate according to the ticketed schedule and expect the flight to Istanbul to take roughly two hours, depending on the airline and routing. If you are connecting onward or returning to central Istanbul, check in advance whether you land at Istanbul Airport or Sabiha Gökçen Airport, as the transfer into the city is very different; from Istanbul Airport, the M11 metro and Havaist buses are the main public-transport options, while Sabiha Gökçen is linked by the M4 metro.

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