Japan Highlights: Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto and Osaka

Morning

Start at Tokyo Station Marunouchi, ideally around 8:00am, when the plaza is still calm and the light is good on the red-brick facade. Walk through Marunouchi toward the palace, allowing about 45 minutes for the station architecture and broad avenues around Marunouchi Naka-dori. Continue to the Imperial Palace East Gardens via Otemachi or Ote-mon Gate; the gardens are generally open from 9:00am to 4:30pm, with last entry around 4:00pm, and admission is free. Allow 1–1½ hours for the former castle grounds, stone walls, ponds, and seasonal plantings. Check the Imperial Household Agency’s site before leaving, as the gardens close on some Mondays and Fridays and may have occasional closures.

Late Morning and Lunch

From Ote-mon Station, take the Toei Oedo Line to Tsukijishijo Station—about 15 minutes—or walk roughly 25 minutes if you feel like staying above ground. Explore Tsukiji Outer Market for around 1½ hours; go before noon, when many stalls begin closing. Try a freshly grilled tamagoyaki skewer, seasonal seafood, and sushi at a small counter restaurant rather than attempting to cover the entire market. Budget roughly ¥1,500–3,500 per person for lunch, and carry cash as some small vendors still prefer it. Keep aisles clear and avoid eating while walking in the busiest lanes.

Afternoon and Evening

After lunch, take the Hibiya Line from Tsukijishijo or nearby Higashi-ginza toward Kamiyacho, then walk into Azabudai Hills for teamLab Borderless. Allow about two hours; timed tickets are essential and the exhibition is largely standing and walking, so comfortable shoes help. Tickets commonly cost around ¥3,800–4,800 for adults depending on date, and the dark rooms can make it easy to lose track of time. From there, walk about 15 minutes to Tokyo Tower—the route climbs slightly—or take a short taxi if your legs are tired. Arrive 30–45 minutes before sunset for the best transition from daylight to city lights; the main observatory typically costs around ¥1,200–1,500, with hours often extending into the evening. After the view, wander through Azabudai or Akabanebashi for dinner; reserve if you want a sit-down restaurant, since this is a popular evening area.

Morning

Start around 8:00am at Meiji Shrine, entering from the Harajuku side through the broad, wooded approach. The walk takes roughly 10–15 minutes before the shrine buildings appear, and the forest makes this feel far removed from the busy streets outside. Allow about 1½ hours, including time for a quiet visit, a possible Shinto prayer, and the seasonal atmosphere—September is still warm and humid, so bring water. The grounds are free and generally open from sunrise until sunset; arriving early is worthwhile before tour groups gather.

Come out near Takeshita Street and browse for about an hour. It is busiest from late morning onward, with compact shops selling youth fashion, accessories, character goods, and oversized crepes. Treat it as a lively street wander rather than a serious shopping mission, and keep valuables secure in the crowd. From the southern end, walk approximately 10 minutes toward Kiddy Land Harajuku on Omotesando. The multi-floor store is a fun midday stop for Japanese character merchandise and toys; allow 45 minutes, and check the current opening time before visiting—shops in this area commonly open around 11:00am. For lunch, grab something casual nearby, such as a ramen set or a department-store food hall meal, rather than spending too long waiting at a famous café.

Afternoon and evening

Continue along Omotesando toward Aoyama, taking your time with the striking contemporary buildings, side streets, and small design shops. The avenue is especially pleasant in the afternoon when the tree canopy offers some shade; allow about an hour for the walk, with occasional detours into quieter lanes. Continue toward Shibuya—roughly 20 minutes on foot from the Omotesando area—or take the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line if the heat is tiring. Around 4:00–5:00pm, experience Shibuya Crossing, first from street level and then from an elevated viewpoint such as Shibuya Sky if you have reserved a timed ticket. The crossing itself is free, while Shibuya Sky is usually around ¥2,000–2,500 and is best booked ahead, particularly around sunset.

Finish at Uobei Shibuya Dogenzaka, a casual conveyor-belt sushi restaurant about 5–10 minutes from the crossing. Orders arrive on individual high-speed lanes, and most plates are inexpensive, making it easy to try several kinds without committing to a formal dinner; budget roughly ¥1,500–3,000 per person. Expect a queue at peak dinner time, so arriving around 5:30–6:00pm is usually easier. The nearest station is Shibuya Station; after dinner, allow extra time for the station’s complex exits, and use an IC card for the simplest return journey.

Morning

Start around 7:30am at Senso-ji, entering through Kaminarimon Gate while the incense burners and temple grounds are still relatively peaceful. Walk through the main hall and around the quieter side paths, allowing about 1½ hours; the grounds are free, though the main hall generally opens at 6:00am and closes around 5:00pm. From there, spend an hour browsing Nakamise-dori toward the temple—many shops open around 10:00am, so this is a good time for ningyo-yaki cakes, rice crackers, and small traditional souvenirs. Keep some cash handy, and avoid eating while walking in the busiest stretch.

Midday

Walk roughly 15 minutes west to Kappabashi Dougu Street, where specialist shops sell everything from lacquered chopsticks and knives to remarkably realistic plastic food samples. Allow about 1½ hours; individual store hours vary, but most operate from late morning into the afternoon and many close on Sundays or public holidays, so check the day’s opening signs before relying on a particular shop. Return toward Asakusa for Asakusa Unana, a casual stop for grilled eel served in a compact portion or over rice. Expect about ¥1,500–3,000 per person, with limited seating and possible queues—go slightly before or after the usual noon rush.

Afternoon and Evening

After lunch, take the Toei Asakusa Line from Asakusa Station to Oshiage Station—about 5 minutes—or walk 20–25 minutes if you want a closer look at the neighborhood. Spend around 2½ hours at Tokyo Skytree and the connected Solamachi complex. The Tembo Deck starts from roughly ¥2,100 on many dates, with the higher Tembo Galleria ticket costing extra; reserve a timed entry online if the forecast is clear, especially for sunset. For a calmer finish, walk back or take the train toward Sumida Park and follow the riverside paths for about an hour, looking across to the illuminated Skytree and the Sumida River. This is an easy, atmospheric evening walk; if you want dinner afterward, stay around Asakusa rather than adding another cross-city journey.

Morning

From Hakone-Yumoto, take the Hakone Tozan Railway to Gora—about 40 minutes, with a change at Hakone-Itabashi or Chokoku-no-Mori depending on the service. Start at the Hakone Open-Air Museum, which opens at 9:00am; allow around 2½ hours for the sculpture gardens, Picasso Pavilion, and mountain views. Admission is roughly ¥2,000, and the grounds are extensive, so comfortable shoes matter. From nearby Koen-Shimo Station, ride the Hakone Tozan Cable Car uphill to Sounzan, then change to the Hakone Ropeway toward Togendai. The full scenic journey takes about two hours with transfers; sit by the windows for the best views over the forested valleys.

Afternoon

Get off at Owakudani for about an hour. The volcanic valley’s walking paths and viewing areas are usually open from roughly 9:00am to 4:30pm, though ropeway operations can pause in strong wind or volcanic-gas conditions. Try one of the famous black eggs—around ¥500 for a packet—while keeping an eye on signage if air quality is poor. Continue by ropeway to Togendai, then board the Lake Ashi sightseeing cruise to Motohakone; the crossing takes about 30–40 minutes, with the complete visit taking roughly an hour. Mount Fuji is weather-dependent, so don’t worry if clouds obscure it—the lake and cedar-covered shoreline are still the main attraction.

Late Afternoon and Evening

From Motohakone Port, walk about 10 minutes along the old cedar avenue to Hakone Shrine. Allow 1½ hours for the forest approach, shrine grounds, and lakeside torii; the shrine itself is free, though the steps can be slippery after rain. Finish with a reserved dinner at a lakeside ryokan in Motohakone, such as Hakone Hotel or Ryuguden, or return toward Gora if your accommodation is there. A kaiseki dinner generally costs ¥8,000–20,000 per person when booked separately, and many ryokan require advance reservations. Plan the evening around the last buses—often around 8:00–9:00pm depending on the route—or arrange a ryokan shuttle, then make time for the onsen rather than trying to add another attraction.

Early Morning

After the exceptionally early arrival from Hakone, head straight to Fushimi Inari Taisha. From Kyoto Station, take the JR Nara Line to Inari Station—about five minutes on the local train, followed by an immediate walk to the shrine. The grounds are open around the clock and free, so arriving near 9:00am still gives you a quieter start than later in the day. Allow roughly 2½ hours: pass the main shrine buildings, then follow the torii uphill as far as energy and heat allow. The full summit takes about two hours round trip, but the first sections already provide the classic experience; carry water, since vending machines become less frequent higher up.

Late Morning and Lunch

Walk about 15 minutes to Tofuku-ji, one of Kyoto’s most atmospheric Zen temple complexes. The grounds are free, while the Tsutenkyo Bridge and Hojo Garden usually require separate admission, together roughly ¥1,000–1,500; check the day’s hours at the gate, as seasonal schedules vary. Give yourself about an hour among the covered bridges, mossy courtyards, and temple roofs before taking the Keihan Line from Tofukuji Station toward central Kyoto. Get off at Gion-Shijo and walk west into Nishiki Market, where you can graze on yuba, grilled seafood, pickles, tamagoyaki, and Kyoto sweets. Allow 1½ hours and budget ¥1,500–3,500 per person; most stalls are cashless-friendly, but some smaller vendors still prefer cash. Eat at the counter rather than walking while eating, as the narrow market lane is busy and local etiquette is taken seriously.

Afternoon and Evening

From Nishiki Market, walk east for about 25 minutes through Gion toward Kiyomizu-dera, or take a short taxi if your legs are feeling the early start. The temple generally opens from 6:00am, with admission around ¥500; spend about 1½ hours on the wooden stage and hillside paths, looking back over southern Kyoto. Descend through Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, allowing another 1½ hours for the preserved lanes, ceramics, incense shops, and small wagashi counters. They are prettiest in the softer late-afternoon light, but the paving is uneven and the slopes can be tiring. For dinner, take a taxi or bus toward Omen Ginkaku-ji—buses can be slow in the evening, so a taxi is often worth the ¥1,500–2,500 fare. Settle in for Kyoto-style udon with vegetables and dipping broth, roughly ¥1,500–3,000 per person; expect a queue at peak dinner time and check the restaurant’s current closing time before setting out.

Morning

Start around 8:30am at Nanzen-ji, one of eastern Kyoto’s most atmospheric temple complexes. The grounds are free to enter and generally open from around 8:40am; the Sanmon Gate and Hojo garden require small admission fees, usually about ¥500–600 each. Allow 1½ hours to wander beneath the wooded hills and see the striking red-brick Suirokaku Aqueduct, a Meiji-era canal structure that feels wonderfully out of place among the temple buildings. From Nanzen-ji, walk north along the canal to the Philosopher’s Path—roughly 20 minutes to its southern end—then follow the tree-lined waterway at an easy pace for about an hour. September can still be warm, so carry water; the path has limited shade and very few places to buy refreshments.

Continue to Ginkaku-ji, the Silver Pavilion, at the northern end of the walk. The temple usually opens around 8:30am and costs approximately ¥500 to enter; allow about an hour for its carefully raked sand garden, mossy paths, and hillside viewpoint. Despite the name, the pavilion was never silver-plated—the appeal is its restrained, weathered beauty. The final approach is lined with souvenir shops and snack stalls, but keep the visit focused before the midday crowds build.

Afternoon and Evening

For a relaxed break, stop at Méli-Mélo, a small café near the Philosopher’s Path, for coffee and a light lunch; expect roughly ¥1,000–2,000 per person, with seating limited and occasional waits. Afterward, take a taxi—usually 15–20 minutes, around ¥1,500–2,000 depending on traffic—to Yasaka Shrine, rather than retracing the entire path. The shrine grounds are open at all hours and free, and an afternoon visit brings a lively local rhythm around the vermilion gates and lanterns. From there, wander into Gion as the light softens: explore Hanamikoji Street, Shirakawa, and the smaller lanes around Yasaka-dori for about 1½ hours. Keep to public streets, avoid photographing geiko or maiko without permission, and remember that many tea houses are private businesses rather than attractions. For dinner, stay in Gion or nearby Pontocho; reservations are wise, especially for traditional restaurants.

Morning

Arrive in Osaka early and make your way first to Osaka Castle, aiming to reach the grounds around 8:45am. From Osaka Station, take the JR Osaka Loop Line to Osakajokoen Station—about 10 minutes—then walk through the spacious park toward the keep. The museum inside the castle generally opens at 9:00am; allow about two hours for the exhibits and the observation floors, with admission usually around ¥1,200. The surrounding grounds are free, and September can still be warm, so carry water and take advantage of the shade around the moat.

Walk roughly 10–15 minutes west to the Osaka Museum of History, where the city’s development from ancient capital to merchant powerhouse is laid out in unusually clear, large-scale displays. It typically opens at 9:30am, costs about ¥600, and takes around 1½ hours. The upper floors offer a particularly good view back toward Osaka Castle, making the museum a useful follow-up rather than just another indoor stop.

Lunch and Afternoon

From Osaka Museum of History, take the Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line from Tanimachi 4-chome Station to Tanimachi 9-chome, then change to the Sennichimae Line for Nippombashi—roughly 15 minutes including the transfer. Have lunch at Kuromon Ichiba Market, allowing about 1½ hours to browse the covered arcade and eat as you go. Look for grilled scallops, sea urchin, sashimi cups, seasonal fruit, and takoyaki; budget ¥2,000–4,000 per person, and bring cash since some smaller stalls still prefer it. It is liveliest around midday, but avoid blocking the narrow walkways while eating.

From Kuromon Ichiba Market, walk about 10 minutes south-west into Hozenji Yokocho, a compact stone-paved alley that feels wonderfully old-fashioned amid Namba. Visit Hozenji and gently splash water over the moss-covered Fudo statue, then linger at one of the small bars or cafés if the heat has built up. The temple is free and the alley is best explored slowly; late afternoon is calmer than the main market hours.

Evening

Continue on foot for about five minutes to Dotonbori, arriving as the signs begin to glow and the canal reflections become the main spectacle. Walk along the riverfront, cross Ebisu-bashi, and try a plate of takoyaki or a sizzling okonomiyaki at a busy counter-style restaurant—allow roughly ¥1,500–3,500 per person. Dotonbori is at its most energetic after 6:00pm, so expect crowds around the famous signs; for a slightly easier dinner, step one street back toward Hozenji Yokocho before returning to the canal for an evening stroll.