17-Day Japan Itinerary with Countryside, Nature, Waterfalls, and Shikoku

Late Afternoon — Tokyo Station Marunouchi

After arriving in Tokyo, make Tokyo Station Marunouchi your first easy orientation walk. Exit toward the Marunouchi side rather than Yaesu, then admire the red-brick station building from Marunouchi Plaza before wandering along Marunouchi Naka-dori. The area is especially pleasant from around 4:00 pm, when the office district starts to soften into evening. Allow about an hour; the station is enormous, so follow signs carefully and keep luggage compact or use station lockers.

Late Afternoon — Imperial Palace East Gardens

From Marunouchi, walk roughly 10–15 minutes toward Imperial Palace East Gardens, entering through Otemon Gate. The former castle grounds are a calm contrast to the skyscrapers, with broad lawns, stone walls, seasonal plantings, and the remains of Edo Castle. The gardens generally close in the late afternoon—often around 4:30 pm, with last entry earlier—so check the official schedule and go here before lingering over shopping. Admission is free, and allow about 1½ hours; if the gates have already closed, enjoy the palace moat and outer walks instead rather than rushing.

Early Evening — Ginza Six

Walk south toward Ginza Six, about 15–20 minutes from the palace area, or take a short taxi if you are carrying bags. This polished complex is good for a gentle first evening indoors: browse the design, fashion, and food floors, then head to the rooftop garden for an elevated view over Ginza. Most shops are open until around 8:00 pm, while restaurants tend to stay open later. You do not need to shop—the building is worth visiting for its architecture, art installations, and air-conditioned break.

Evening — Tsukiji Outer Market

Finish with dinner at Tsukiji Outer Market, a 10–15-minute walk from Ginza Six. The market is liveliest in the morning, so expect some stalls to be closed in the evening, but several established sushi counters and restaurants around Tsukiji Outer Market remain open; confirm hours on the day and avoid arriving too late. Choose a small sushi set, grilled seafood, or the classic rolled tamagoyaki, budgeting roughly ¥2,000–5,000 per person. Eat at the counter where possible, carry cash as a backup, and remember that the market’s narrow lanes are residential working streets—keep moving and avoid eating while walking.

Morning — Senso-ji and Nakamise-dori

Start early at Senso-ji, when the temple grounds are still relatively quiet and the lantern at Kaminarimon Gate catches the soft morning light. The main temple precincts are free and open around the clock, though the main hall generally opens from about 6:00 (6:30 from October through March) until 17:00. Allow roughly 1½ hours to stroll from the gate through the incense burner and pagoda area to the main hall; be respectful during prayers, and remember that the interior is not a place for flash photography.

Afterward, take your time along Nakamise-dori, the traditional shopping street leading toward the temple. Most shops open around 10:00, so this is a good point for freshly made ningyō-yaki cakes, senbei rice crackers, or a small temple-themed souvenir. It can become crowded quickly, particularly on weekends, so browse patiently and keep moving toward the sides when stopping for photos. From Senso-ji, Kappabashi Dougu Street is about a 10–15-minute walk west.

Late Morning and Afternoon — Kappabashi Dougu Street and Yanaka Ginza

Spend about an hour exploring Kappabashi Dougu Street, where specialist shops sell everything from beautiful Japanese knives and lacquerware to restaurant signs and remarkably lifelike plastic food replicas. Individual shop hours vary, but many open around 9:00–10:00 and close by 17:00–18:00; Monday–Saturday is usually the liveliest time, while some stores close on Sundays. If you are buying a knife, ask about engraving, export packaging, and whether the blade is suitable for your cooking style. For lunch, look for a small soba or curry shop around the street rather than returning to the busiest temple lanes.

Continue by subway or taxi to Yanaka Ginza—allow roughly 25–35 minutes by public transport, usually via Tawaramachi and Nishi-Nippori, depending on the route. This compact shopping street is best enjoyed without a checklist: try a croquette or grilled snack, browse the old-fashioned confectionery shops, and climb the nearby Yuyake Dandan steps for a pleasant neighborhood view. Most businesses close around 18:00–19:00, so arrive by mid-afternoon and leave time to wander the quiet residential lanes around Yanaka before heading back toward Asakusa.

Evening — Hoppy Street

Return to Asakusa for an easy dinner on Hoppy Street, just west of Senso-ji. The covered lane is lined with informal izakaya serving stewed beef tendon, yakitori, sashimi, and other dishes designed to share; a typical meal with drinks costs about ¥2,000–4,000 per person. Restaurants generally get busier from 18:00, and many operate on a casual counter-service or shared-table basis, so do not expect a long, formal dinner. Order a small dish first, check whether seating or a table charge applies, and enjoy the lively atmosphere rather than rushing between venues.

Morning — Arrive in Nikko and walk to Shinkyo Bridge

Take an early Tobu Railway limited express from Asakusa to Tobu-Nikko, ideally around 7:00–8:00, reserving seats in advance. After arriving, use the station lockers or leave your luggage at your accommodation, then take a local bus or walk roughly 25 minutes uphill toward the shrine district. Begin at Shinkyo Bridge, the striking vermilion crossing over the Daiya River. It is a short visit—about 30 minutes—but the combination of cedar forest, rushing water, and the red bridge is one of Nikko’s best introductions. The bridge is viewed from the riverbank; crossing access may require a small fee, while the surrounding viewpoints are free.

Late Morning — Nikko Toshogu

From Shinkyo Bridge, continue uphill for about 10–15 minutes through the cedar-lined approach to Nikko Toshogu. Allow around two hours for the richly decorated shrine complex, including the famous Yomeimon Gate, the sleeping cat carving, and the three wise monkeys. The shrine generally opens around 9:00 and admission is approximately ¥1,600; arrive before late morning if possible, as tour groups build around the main gates. Take your time with the quieter forest paths between buildings—the elaborate gold details are impressive, but the scale and atmosphere of the surrounding trees are equally memorable.

Afternoon — Nikkozan Rinnoji Temple and a relaxed evening meal

Walk back down toward Nikkozan Rinnoji Temple, which sits just below the main Toshogu approach. Its Sanbutsudo hall contains imposing Buddhist figures, while the nearby Shoyo-en Garden is a peaceful place to slow down after the busier shrine. Allow about an hour; combined admission is usually around ¥500–¥1,000 depending on which areas are open. The temple typically closes in the late afternoon, so aim to arrive by 15:00. Afterward, wander back toward Nikko Station or the old town streets, where small confectionery shops and yuba vendors make good stops. For dinner, choose a local restaurant serving yuba cuisine—look for dishes such as yuba sashimi, rolled yuba, and yuba soba, usually costing ¥2,000–4,000 per person. Hippari Dako is a casual central option, while Komekichi Kozushi is a good choice if you prefer a more polished meal; reservations are useful because Nikko’s restaurants can close early.

Morning — Kegon Falls

Leave central Nikko around 7:30–8:00 for Kegon Falls, taking the Tobu bus from Nikko Station toward Chuzenji Onsen; allow roughly 45–50 minutes, depending on traffic. The bus pass covering the Oku-Nikko area is usually worthwhile if you are making several stops, and an early start helps you avoid both crowds and the later-morning queues. At the falls, take the elevator down to the lower observation area for the full vertical view; the elevator normally opens around 8:00, with admission around ¥600. Allow about an hour, and bring a light jacket—this lakeside mountain area is noticeably cooler than town.

Late Morning — Lake Chuzenji

Walk or take a short bus ride to Lake Chuzenji, then follow the waterfront around Chuzenji Onsen at an unhurried pace. The mountain-and-lake setting is especially beautiful in October, though peak autumn color may still be developing depending on the year. For lunch, try Yuba Cuisine Tsukinoi for Nikko’s tofu-skin dishes, or choose one of the small lakeside restaurants for soba, curry, or trout; budget roughly ¥1,500–3,000. Keep an eye on the bus timetable before setting off, since services become less frequent farther into Oku-Nikko.

Afternoon and Evening — Senjogahara, Ryuzu Falls, and Chuzenji Onsen

From Chuzenji Onsen, take the bus toward Senjogahara, getting off near Mitsuzono or the marshland trail access. The walk across Senjogahara Marshland takes about 2–2½ hours at a relaxed pace, mostly along boardwalks and forest paths with views toward the volcanic peaks. Wear shoes with good grip and carry water; the trail can be damp, and there are limited places to buy food once you leave the lakeside. Continue by bus to Ryuzu Falls, where a short viewing area beside the cascade makes a rewarding late-afternoon stop—allow about 45 minutes. Return to Chuzenji Onsen before dusk for a public bath such as Yumoto Onsen, if open and convenient from your accommodation, or another local day-use bath; expect roughly ¥1,000–2,000, bring a small towel, and note that tattoos may require advance confirmation. Buses back toward Nikko can become crowded and infrequent after sunset, so check the final departures before soaking and consider staying overnight around the lake if you want a slower evening.

Early Morning — Travel to Takayama

This is the itinerary’s longest transfer day, so leave Nikko around 6:30–7:00, with reserved seats arranged for each JR leg. Allow roughly 7–8 hours via Utsunomiya, Tokyo, and Nagoya, and keep lunch simple at a station during the connections. Your final train, the Limited Express Hida, is one of Japan’s more scenic rail rides, with mountain views as it follows the Hida River toward Takayama. On arrival, take a taxi or walk to your accommodation; the compact old town is generally 10–20 minutes from Takayama Station, though luggage makes a taxi worthwhile.

Late Afternoon — Takayama Jinya and Sanmachi Suji

After checking in, head first to Takayama Jinya, the beautifully preserved Edo-period government office near the old town. It is open roughly 8:45–17:00, with seasonal closing times, and admission is about ¥440; if your train arrives late, make this your first stop because the final entry is usually well before closing. Spend about an hour moving through the tatami rooms, courtyards, kitchens, and administrative chambers. From there, it is only a few minutes on foot to Sanmachi Suji, where dark wooden merchant houses, small craft shops, sake breweries, and narrow lanes make for an atmospheric first walk through Takayama. Most shops close around 17:00–18:00, so browse before settling into dinner rather than leaving the shopping until later.

Early Evening — Miyagawa Morning Market Area and Hida Beef Dinner

Walk north along the Miyagawa River to the Miyagawa Morning Market area, about 10 minutes from Sanmachi Suji. The market itself is primarily a morning attraction and will mostly be closed by early evening, but the riverside lanes and small food shops are still pleasant for a short wander; don’t plan on finding the full market selection at this hour. Return toward Sanmachi for dinner, reserving ahead if possible at Maruaki Hida Takayama, known for well-marbled Hida beef, or Hida Kotte Ushi for a more casual tasting of Hida beef sushi and grilled bites. Expect approximately ¥4,000–8,000 per person for a proper meal, more at premium yakiniku restaurants. After dinner, keep the evening unhurried: Takayama is quiet once the tour groups and day-trippers have gone, and the lantern-lit streets are best enjoyed without trying to add another major sight.

Morning — Ogimachi Village

Take a reserved morning Nohi Bus from Takayama Bus Center; the ride to Shirakawa-go takes about 50 minutes and typically costs around ¥2,600. Book ahead through Japan Bus Online or Nohi Bus, especially during the autumn foliage season. On arrival, leave your luggage at the Shirakawa-go Bus Terminal lockers or your accommodation, then walk into Ogimachi, the main village. Spend a couple of unhurried hours along the narrow rural lanes, looking at the steeply pitched gassho-zukuri farmhouses, vegetable plots, and small streams. The village itself is free to explore, but keep to marked paths and avoid entering private gardens.

Continue to Wada House, one of Ogimachi’s best-preserved traditional homes. It generally opens from around 9:00 to 17:00, with admission roughly ¥400; allow 30–45 minutes to see the enormous timber interior, household artifacts, and upper floors. For lunch, choose a local soba or Hida beef restaurant in the village—Soba Restaurant Kanda is a reliable option for handmade noodles, while Hida Beef Restaurant Tenkara is worth considering if you want a heartier regional meal. Expect about ¥1,500–3,500 per person, and try to eat slightly before or after the main noon rush, when queues can build.

Afternoon — Shirakawa-go Observatory and Return to Takayama

After lunch, walk or take the short village shuttle up to the Shirakawa-go Observatory for the classic view over Ogimachi’s thatched roofs and surrounding rice fields. The walk uphill takes roughly 20 minutes from the village center; the shuttle is easier if you are carrying bags or want to save your legs. Allow about an hour, and look for the changing colors on the mountain slopes in early October. Return to the bus terminal with plenty of time—aim to arrive 20–30 minutes before your reserved late-afternoon Nohi Bus back to Takayama, another ride of about 50 minutes. Keep your ticket accessible, as services can fill completely and there may be limited flexibility for changing departures.

Morning — Travel from Takayama to Matsumoto

Take an early reserved bus from Shirakawa-go back to Takayama, then continue by highway bus toward Matsumoto. The combined journey takes roughly 4½–5 hours, so an 8:00 departure is sensible; confirm the connection when booking through Japan Bus Online, as the services are limited and autumn seats fill quickly. On arrival at Matsumoto Bus Terminal, leave luggage at your accommodation or in station lockers before heading into the compact castle district.

Early Afternoon — Matsumoto Castle

Walk or take a short taxi ride to Matsumoto Castle, ideally arriving by about 13:30. Allow around 1½ hours for the grounds and interior, including the steep wooden staircases and excellent views across the Japanese Alps from the upper floors. The castle is usually open from 8:30 to 16:30, with final admission around 16:00; admission is generally about ¥1,000–1,300. Weekday afternoons are calmer than mornings, but expect some queues inside the keep.

Afternoon — Nawate-dori and Nakamachi Street

From the castle, a pleasant 10-minute walk leads to Nawate-dori, a short riverside shopping street known for its frog signs, small souvenir shops, and old-fashioned snack stalls. Spend about 45 minutes browsing, then cross the Yokoyama River area and continue into Nakamachi Street, where dark-plastered kura storehouses now house craft boutiques, cafés, and local food shops. The streets are especially atmospheric in the late afternoon, when the low light picks out the textured walls. Most independent shops close around 17:00–18:00, so browse before settling in for dinner.

Evening — Shinshu soba at Kobayashi Soba

Finish at Kobayashi Soba, a long-established central soba restaurant, for Matsumoto’s delicate Shinshu buckwheat noodles. Order cold seiro soba if you want to appreciate the noodles’ texture, or a warm bowl if the mountain air has turned chilly; expect to pay roughly ¥1,000–2,500. After dinner, Matsumoto is easy to navigate on foot, and the castle area is worth a brief evening stroll when its dark silhouette is illuminated.

Morning — Kiso-Fukushima Sekisho-Ato

After breakfast in Matsumoto, take a mid-morning JR train to Kiso-Fukushima, allowing roughly 1½ hours. A local train gives you more time to watch the forested valley unfold, while the Limited Express Shinano is faster and more comfortable; fares are generally ¥1,500–3,000. Store luggage at the station or your accommodation, then walk to Kiso Fukushima Sekisho-Ato, the reconstructed Edo-period checkpoint overlooking the Kiso River. Allow about 45 minutes. It opens approximately 8:30–16:30 and admission is usually around ¥300–500; check the seasonal closing day before setting out.

From the checkpoint, continue on foot through the older lanes toward the Kiso River promenade. This is a pleasantly unhurried part of town, with wooden buildings, small shrines, and mountain views rather than major sightseeing crowds. Allow about an hour, stopping for tea or a simple snack if something catches your eye. The river is especially atmospheric in October, when the surrounding slopes begin taking on autumn color, although the walk can be slippery after rain.

Afternoon — Nezame-no-toko Gorge and Kakizore Valley

Take a local train south to Agematsu, then use a taxi to Nezame-no-toko Gorge; the taxi is much more practical than trying to coordinate infrequent buses, particularly on a Sunday. Give yourself about an hour beside the Kiso River, where pale granite shelves and enormous rounded rocks create one of the valley’s most distinctive landscapes. The paths and steps can be uneven, so wear shoes with a good grip. Return by taxi toward Kiso-Fukushima or arrange for the driver to wait if you have limited afternoon daylight.

Continue to Kakizore Valley for a short forest walk toward Kakehashi Bridge and the waterfall area, allowing roughly 1½ hours. Check trail conditions locally before leaving—rain can make the approach muddy, and some paths may be restricted after storms. Daylight fades earlier in the wooded valley than in town, so aim to start this walk by mid-afternoon and carry water; a taxi is the easiest option from Kiso-Fukushima when bus connections do not line up.

Evening — Gohei-mochi in Kiso-Fukushima

Return to central Kiso-Fukushima for a relaxed dinner at a local gohei-mochi restaurant. Order the region’s grilled rice cakes glazed with a sweet-savory miso or walnut sauce alongside soba, mountain vegetables, or river fish; expect roughly ¥1,000–2,500 per person. Many small restaurants close early or run limited evening hours, so ask your accommodation for a same-day recommendation and reserve if possible. After dinner, keep the evening quiet—the town is peaceful after dark, and this is a good night to prepare for tomorrow’s onward journey.

Late Morning — Arrive in Kyoto and continue to Fushimi Inari Taisha

Take the planned JR connection from Kiso-Fukushima and aim to arrive at Kyoto Station around midday. From the station, Fushimi Inari Taisha is an easy five-minute ride on the JR Nara Line to Inari Station; the shrine is directly outside the station, so there is no need to return into central Kyoto first. The grounds are free and open at all hours. Walk past the main shrine buildings and continue uphill through the torii tunnel—most visitors turn around quickly, while the path becomes noticeably quieter after the first 30–40 minutes. Allow about two hours, or less if you stop at the lower viewpoints rather than climbing toward the summit. Wear comfortable shoes and buy water before ascending; there are fewer refreshment options higher up.

Late Afternoon — Tofukuji Temple

Return to the JR Nara Line for the short ride to Tofukuji Station, then walk roughly 10 minutes to Tofukuji Temple. This major Zen complex is particularly atmospheric in October, when the maples begin their seasonal color, though the famous Tsutenkyo Bridge can become crowded later in the foliage season. The temple grounds and gardens generally close around 4:00–4:30 PM, with final entry often earlier, so check the day’s posted hours and go directly after Fushimi Inari rather than lingering over lunch. Admission is typically around ¥500–¥1,000 depending on which garden or bridge area is open. From Tofukuji, a 20-minute walk or short train ride brings you toward Gion.

Early Evening — Gion Shirakawa, then dinner at Gion Kappa

Arrive in Gion around dusk and stroll Gion Shirakawa, following the canal between traditional wooden townhouses and small stone bridges. It is a compact, atmospheric walk of about 45 minutes; keep voices low and remember that these are lived-in streets, not an open-air theme park. Finish at Gion Kappa, where seasonal Kyoto-style dishes are served in a relaxed setting. Reserve ahead if possible, especially for counter or small-table seating, and budget roughly ¥4,000–¥8,000 per person before drinks. After dinner, Gion-Shijo Station and Kawaramachi are within a 10–15-minute walk, while Kyoto Station is about 15 minutes by Keihan train plus a short connection; taxis are convenient but slower in the narrow, busy evening streets.

Morning — Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, Tenryu-ji, and Okochi Sanso Garden

Arrive in Arashiyama early, ideally around 7:30–8:00, before tour groups fill the narrow paths. From Arashiyama Station on the Randen line, walk roughly 10 minutes toward the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove; from JR Saga-Arashiyama Station, allow about 15 minutes. The grove itself is free and accessible at any hour, but the quietest atmosphere is before 9:00. Continue directly to Tenryu-ji, whose garden and temple grounds usually open from 8:30; allow about 1½ hours and expect roughly ¥500 for the garden, with an additional fee if you enter the temple buildings. The garden’s pond, framed by the western hills, is the highlight—take your time along the paths rather than treating it as a quick photo stop.

Exit through the northern side of Tenryu-ji and walk a few minutes to Okochi Sanso Garden, a beautifully maintained former villa garden. The entrance fee is around ¥1,000 and includes a small tea and sweet, making it one of the better-value pauses in Arashiyama despite the higher admission price. The walk through the landscaped grounds takes about an hour, with good views toward Kyoto on clear days. Wear comfortable shoes: the paths rise and fall more than they first appear, and autumn color may only just be beginning in early October.

Afternoon — Katsura River, Togetsukyo Bridge, and lunch

Walk downhill from Okochi Sanso Garden toward the Katsura River, then spend an unhurried hour around Togetsukyo Bridge. The best views are from the southern riverbank and the paths near Arashiyama Park; cross the bridge only if you want a broader perspective of the wooded hills. For lunch, stay beside the river rather than returning toward the station crowds. Look for a casual tofu or soba set meal around Arashiyama Nakanoshima Park or the streets behind the bridge, budgeting ¥1,500–3,500 per person. Restaurants can develop queues from noon, so an early lunch around 11:30 or a late one after 13:30 will be easier.

Late Afternoon — Sagano Romantic Train

If seats are available, take the Sagano Romantic Train from Saga-Arashiyama Station toward Kameoka for the roughly 25-minute ride through the Hozugawa Gorge; allow about an hour overall once boarding and disembarking are included. Trains generally run from late morning into the afternoon, but services and seat availability vary by season, so check the official schedule or reserve at a JR West ticket office as soon as you can. The open-sided carriages are especially pleasant in mild weather, though they can feel cool later in the day. If the train is sold out, keep the riverside walk as your final stop and return from Saga-Arashiyama Station or Arashiyama Station without trying to force the schedule.

Morning — Koyasan arrival and temple check-in

Leave Kyoto around 7:00–8:00 so you reach Koyasan late morning or around noon. The route involves changing in Namba, taking the Nankai Koya Line to Gokurakubashi, then boarding the mountain cable car; allow roughly three hours door to door. At Koyasan Station, take the local bus toward the central temple district—most buses stop near Senjuinbashi, and your shukubo will usually accept luggage before check-in. Carry cash and a light jacket: the mountain is cooler than Kyoto, and buses are less frequent than you may expect.

Early Afternoon — Kongobu-ji and Banryu-tei

Begin with Kongobu-ji, the head temple of Shingon Buddhism, reached by a short walk from the central bus stops. Allow about an hour for its painted sliding doors, tatami rooms, and the famous Banryu-tei rock garden, which is part of the temple grounds and is often described as Japan’s largest rock garden. The temple is generally open from around 8:30 to 16:30, with admission roughly ¥1,000; remove your shoes and keep voices low. Afterward, take an unhurried walk through the surrounding lanes rather than immediately catching a bus—the cedar-lined streets and small temple gates are at their most atmospheric when the midday visitors begin to thin.

Late Afternoon and Evening — Okunoin and shojin ryori

Use the bus from the central temple area to the Okunoin-mae stop, then spend about two hours walking the approach through Okunoin’s vast cemetery. The most rewarding route follows the Ichinohashi entrance beneath towering cedars, passing moss-covered gravestones and lanterns before reaching Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum. The path is mostly level but extends for several kilometres, so wear shoes with good grip; photography is prohibited beyond the inner bridge, and the area is especially beautiful in the fading light. Return to your shukubo in time for the evening meal—your reservation normally includes a beautifully arranged vegetarian shojin ryori dinner, served early, often around 17:30–18:30. Temple lodging commonly costs ¥10,000–25,000 per person including dinner and breakfast; observe the house’s quiet hours, and consider joining the following morning’s prayer service if your schedule allows.

Early Morning to Mid-Afternoon — Travel from Koyasan to Matsuyama

Leave Koyasan by around 7:00, allowing six to seven hours for the cable car, Nankai trains, Osaka Metro, shinkansen, and JR connections before reaching Matsuyama. This is a full transfer day, so buy or reserve the through tickets in advance and keep lunch simple at Shin-Osaka Station or Okayama Station. On arrival, take the tram or a short taxi ride from Matsuyama Station to your accommodation, then leave your main luggage before heading uphill; the castle area is compact, but the final approach involves slopes and steps.

Late Afternoon — Matsuyama Castle

Make Matsuyama Castle your first Shikoku sight. From Okaido, ride the Matsuyama Castle Ropeway or chairlift up to the castle park, then walk through the grounds to the keep. The ropeway generally runs until early evening, while the keep typically closes around 17:00, with last admission roughly 30 minutes earlier—so if your train arrives late, enjoy the hilltop viewpoints even if the interior has closed. Admission to the keep is usually about ¥520, with a separate ropeway or chairlift fare; allow around 90 minutes. The panoramic view across Matsuyama and the Seto Inland Sea is particularly good in the late afternoon.

Early Evening to Dinner — Matsuyama Ropeway Shopping Street and tai meshi

Come back down to Matsuyama Ropeway Shopping Street, a lively, pedestrian-friendly stretch beneath the castle with small craft shops, souvenir stores, and Ehime citrus products such as mikan sweets and juice. It is an easy place to browse for gifts without committing to a long detour; most shops close around 18:00–19:00. For dinner, settle into a tai meshi restaurant near Okaido, such as Goshiki or Kadoya Okaido, and order either the traditional steamed sea-bream rice or the Iyo-style raw sea-bream served over rice with a savory egg-and-dashi sauce. Expect roughly ¥2,000–4,000 per person, and arrive before 19:00 if you want to avoid a wait.

Morning — Dogo Onsen Honkan

Begin around 8:00 at Dogo Onsen Honkan, the historic wooden bathhouse at the heart of Dogo. It is one of Japan’s oldest hot-spring establishments, but bathing arrangements and available floors can change during restoration and maintenance, so check the official site or ask your accommodation the evening before. Allow about 90 minutes, including changing and a relaxed soak; basic bathing is generally around ¥700–1,500 depending on the area or package. Bring a small towel or buy one locally, and note that towels do not cover tattoos—ask staff about current policies if relevant.

Afterward, walk a few minutes through the arcade to Dogo Onsen Annex Asuka-no-Yu, a newer bathhouse inspired by the Asuka period. It is a good contrast to the Honkan: brighter, more spacious, and decorated with Matsuyama and Ehime motifs. Plan another 60–90 minutes and consider the more elaborate bathing or private-room options if available; basic entry is usually roughly ¥600–1,300. For a light break between baths, Dogo Beer near the station is handy for local craft beer and simple food, though keep lunch modest after soaking.

Early Afternoon — Isaniwa Shrine and Dogo Park

Walk uphill from the spa district to Isaniwa Shrine, reached by a long, steep flight of steps. The climb is short but surprisingly vigorous, so take your time and carry water. At the top, the vivid vermilion-and-white buildings and ornate decorative details make this one of Matsuyama’s most rewarding smaller shrines; entry to the grounds is free, and 30–45 minutes is enough. From here, continue toward Dogo Park and Yuzuki Castle ruins, a leafy former castle site with open lawns, stonework, and occasional views back toward the surrounding hills. The park is free and open throughout the day; allow about an hour for an unhurried walk.

Late Afternoon — Botchan Dango in the Dogo arcade

Finish back in the Dogo shopping arcade with Botchan Dango, the local three-colored sweet dumpling traditionally associated with Matsuyama. Try it with green tea at Kurikawa Seika, a long-established shop, or choose one of the nearby confectionery counters for takeaway. Expect around ¥500–1,000, and this is a pleasant time to browse towels, citrus sweets, and small Ehime souvenirs without the morning bathhouse crowds. If you are still hungry, look for tai-meshi or udon around the arcade rather than committing to a large restaurant meal—tomorrow’s travel day is easier after a light evening.

Morning — Travel from Matsuyama to Kochi

Take an early JR service from Matsuyama Station, ideally around 7:30–8:00, allowing roughly five hours for the less-frequent connection via Uwajima and Nakamura. Confirm the exact timetable and connections at the station the previous evening, and keep snacks with you—this is a scenic but not especially frequent route. After arriving at Kochi Station, leave your luggage at your accommodation or in the station lockers, then take a short tram ride or walk toward the castle district.

Afternoon — Kochi Castle

Spend about 1½ hours at Kochi Castle, one of Japan’s rare castles retaining its original keep and much of its historic structure. The climb through the wooden interiors is steep in places, but the upper floor gives a rewarding view over the city and surrounding hills. The castle is generally open from 9:00 to 17:00, with last admission around 16:30; admission is roughly ¥500. From Kochi Station, the Kochi City Tram to Kochijo-mae takes about 10 minutes, followed by a short uphill walk through Kochi Park.

Late Afternoon and Evening — Hirome Market, Harimayabashi, and the market streets

Walk downhill from Kochi Castle for about 10 minutes to Hirome Market, arriving before the dinner rush if you want a seat. Join a communal table and look for katsuo tataki seared over straw, local gyoza, grilled seafood, and citrusy yuzu drinks; allow ¥2,000–4,000 per person, and remember that you usually buy food and drinks from individual stalls before finding a seat. Afterward, stroll south through the covered arcades toward Harimayabashi, the small red bridge associated with one of Kochi’s best-known folk songs. It takes only a few minutes to see, but the surrounding shopping streets are pleasant for an unhurried wander.

The Kochi Sunday Market is held along Sunday Market Street on Sunday mornings, not in the evening, so it will not be operating at this time. Instead, browse the nearby covered arcades for regional snacks and souvenirs, or return to Hirome Market for a second drink. If you happen to be visiting on a Sunday despite the itinerary date, shift the market to the following morning; otherwise, this compact central route is easy to enjoy on foot after dinner.

Morning — Travel from Kochi to Tokushima

Take a morning JR service from Kochi Station, aiming for around 8:00. The journey via Awa-Ikeda takes roughly 3½–4 hours, so expect to reach Tokushima Station around lunchtime. Reserve the full itinerary if possible, as connections across Shikoku are less frequent than in the major cities; the stretch through the Oboke Gorge is particularly scenic, with steep wooded valleys and the Yoshino River appearing between the mountains. On arrival, leave luggage in the station lockers or at your accommodation before heading into the compact city center.

Afternoon — Bizan Ropeway and Bizan Park

Walk or take a short local bus ride from central Tokushima to the lower station of the Bizan Ropeway, then ride up Mount Bizan for broad views over the city and the Yoshino River plain. The return journey generally takes only a few minutes, but allow about 1½ hours overall for the ride, viewpoints, and photographs. The ropeway usually operates from late morning into the evening, with schedules varying seasonally; check the day’s final descent before going up. At the summit, continue into Bizan Park, where quiet wooded paths and small lookout areas make a pleasant change from the city. Wear comfortable shoes, as the paths are gently uneven and can be slippery after rain.

Late Afternoon and Evening — Awa Odori Kaikan and Tokushima ramen

Return to central Tokushima and spend the late afternoon at Awa Odori Kaikan, near Awa Odori Street. The museum explains the history of Tokushima’s famous summer dance, and the best part is usually the live performance, where dancers demonstrate the distinctive stepping and encourage visitors to join. Allow about an hour; performance times can change, so check the schedule when you arrive. Finish with a bowl of Tokushima ramen near Tokushima Station—look for the local style of rich pork-and-soy broth, sliced pork, egg, and green onions. Inotani is a well-known choice if open, while Ramen Todai Tokushima Station West Exit is convenient for an evening meal; budget roughly ¥800–1,500, and expect counter seating and a quick, informal meal.

Morning — Iya Kazura Bridge and Biwa Waterfall

Leave Tokushima around 7:00–8:00 for Miyoshi, then continue from Awa-Ikeda or Oboke by local bus or, more realistically, a pre-arranged taxi into Nishi-Iya. The final valley roads are narrow and winding, and bus services are infrequent, so confirm the connection with your accommodation the day before. Aim to reach Iya Kazura Bridge in the late morning; admission is roughly ¥550, and the bridge area is generally open from around 8:00 to 18:00, with shorter hours possible outside summer. Cross slowly—the woven-vine floor sways noticeably—and look down to the Iya River far below. Allow about an hour, including the short riverside paths and small souvenir stalls.

From the bridge, a roughly 10-minute walk brings you to Biwa Waterfall, a modest but atmospheric cascade tucked into the surrounding forest. It is best treated as a brief nature stop rather than a major hike: spend 20–30 minutes enjoying the shade and mossy rocks, then have a simple lunch nearby if available. Choices in this part of the valley are limited, so picking up a rice ball or bento in Oboke or asking your accommodation to prepare one is sensible.

Afternoon — Ochiai Village

Arrange a taxi from Nishi-Iya to Ochiai Village, about 30–40 minutes along the valley road; relying on a same-day bus can leave you waiting for hours. Ochiai Village is spread across steep terraced slopes, so wear shoes with good grip and allow around 1½ hours for the uphill lanes, old farmhouses, and wide views across the wooded gorge. The village is quiet and residential rather than a conventional attraction—keep voices low, do not enter private fields or homes, and pause often because the gradients are demanding. The small Ochiai Village viewpoint and restored traditional houses provide the clearest sense of how people adapted to this exceptionally steep landscape.

Evening — Nishi-Iya Onsen and valley dinner

Return by taxi to Nishi-Iya Onsen for an early evening soak, allowing about 1½ hours. A day-visitor bath is usually around ¥1,000–2,000, though hours and access vary by facility; Hotel Kazurabashi is a convenient option if you are not staying there, with an open-air bath overlooking the gorge and, at some times, access via its small cable car. Check same-day bathing hours before setting out, and bring a towel or rent one at reception. Finish with a relaxed dinner at your ryokan or a village restaurant: look for hand-cut Iya soba, grilled ayu river fish, mountain vegetables, and hearty dishes made with local tofu. Dinner service can finish early in the valley, so reserve ahead—especially if you are not eating at your accommodation.

Morning — Arrive in Takamatsu and explore Ritsurin Garden

Take an early JR service from Miyoshi, ideally around 7:30–8:00, allowing 2½–3 hours via Kotohira or Tadotsu. The scenery gradually opens from mountain valleys into the flatter Kagawa landscape, so keep a window seat if possible. On arrival at Takamatsu Station, store larger bags in the station lockers; Ritsurin Garden is about 10 minutes by JR to Ritsurinkōen-kitaguchi Station, or roughly 15 minutes by taxi. Spend around two hours wandering its ponds, pine groves, bridges, and tea-house gardens. It generally opens at 7:00 and costs about ¥410, with autumn light beginning to soften the garden in October.

Early Afternoon — Sanuki udon near Takamatsu Station

Return toward central Takamatsu for lunch rather than eating inside the garden. A practical local choice is Udon Baka Ichidai, known for its butter-and-soy “kamatoru” udon, though queues are common; Udon no Shikoku around the station is an easier fallback. Expect ¥500–1,500 for a bowl and side dishes, and remember that many udon shops close once lunch stock runs out, often by mid-afternoon. After eating, walk through Sunport Takamatsu toward the waterfront, where the open promenade around Takamatsu Port gives broad views across the Seto Inland Sea and a lively glimpse of ferries heading for the islands.

Late Afternoon — Shikoku Mura on Yashima

From Takamatsu-Chikkō Station, take the Kotoden train from Kawaramachi toward Kotarō and continue to Yashima Station; from there, a short taxi ride is the simplest way to reach Shikoku Mura. Allow about 1½ hours for this open-air museum, whose relocated farmhouses, stone paths, bridges, and traditional buildings make a gentle final look at the countryside and architecture encountered across the island. It usually closes around 17:30, with last admission roughly 30 minutes earlier, so aim to arrive by 15:30–16:00. Finish with a quiet walk around Yashima if daylight remains, then return to central Takamatsu by taxi or Kotoden for dinner.