Lima is home to one of the most unusual climates on Earth. Despite its location just 12 degrees south of the equator—deep within the tropics—it functions as a subtropical desert. The city's weather is dictated by the collision of two massive forces: the towering Andes Mountains to the east and the frigid Humboldt Current to the west.
Typical Weather Patterns
Lima is famously known for its lack of rainfall. It is the second-largest desert city in the world after Cairo, receiving less than an inch of rain annually. However, while it rarely rains in the traditional sense, it is frequently damp. The sky is often characterized by a thick, low-hanging cloud cover that locals call panza de burro (donkey's belly) because of its uniform gray color.
The Daily Rhythm
- Morning: In both winter and summer, mornings often start with a layer of coastal fog or mist. In winter, this can linger all day, while in summer, it typically burns off by mid-morning.
- Afternoon: During the summer (December–April), the sun breaks through for bright, blue-sky afternoons. In winter (June–October), the sun is rarely seen, and the city remains under a gray canopy.
- Evening: Constant high humidity means evenings often feel clammy. A cooling maritime breeze is common along the coastal cliffs of districts like Miraflores and Barranco.
Seasonal Trends
- Summer (December – April): This is the "sun season." Temperatures average between 22°C and 28°C (72°F–82°F). Humidity is lower than in winter, but the UV index is exceptionally high. On clear days, the sun feels much stronger than the thermometer suggests.
- Winter (June – October): This is the "gray season." Temperatures range from 14°C to 19°C (57°F–66°F). While these numbers look mild, the 80–90% humidity creates a "penetrating chill" that feels much colder. The sun may not appear for weeks at a time.
- Shoulder Months (May and November): These periods are atmospheric tug-of-wars. You might experience a bright, sunny morning followed by a sudden descent of heavy fog in the afternoon.
Microclimates and Variations
Lima is a city of microclimates. The coastal districts (Miraflores, Barranco, San Isidro) are significantly cooler, foggier, and more humid due to their proximity to the ocean. If you travel just 20–30 minutes inland to districts like La Molina or Ate, the Andes foothills block the maritime fog, and you will often find bright sunshine and temperatures up to 5°C (9°F) warmer than at the coast.
Local Phenomena: The Garúa and El Niño
- The Garúa: This is the signature weather event of Lima. It is a fine, persistent drizzle that isn't quite rain but is enough to make the streets slick and the air damp. It occurs primarily from June to September.
- El Niño: Every few years, the cold Humboldt Current is replaced by warm water. During El Niño years, Lima's climate flips. The winter becomes much warmer, the summer can see record-breaking heat, and the city may experience rare, heavy rainstorms that can cause flash flooding since the desert infrastructure isn't built for drainage.
How Locals Experience the Weather
Because the temperature is so stable, most homes in Lima do not have central heating or air conditioning. During the damp winter, Lima residents focus on managing humidity. You will see people wearing thick wool scarves and jackets to combat the "damp cold" that feels like it gets into your bones. In the summer, the city relocates to the beaches south of the capital to escape the humidity and enjoy the rare sunshine.
What it "Feels Like"
- In Summer: It feels tropical but without the afternoon thunderstorms. It’s muggy, and the sun is sharp; even on a hazy day, you can burn quickly.
- In Winter: It feels like living inside a cloud. Everything—clothes, towels, hair—feels slightly damp. Though the thermometer says 15°C (59°F), the lack of sun and the wet air make it feel more like 8°C (46°F).