Varanasi Weather Guide: Seasons, Climate & Local Life

Varanasi (Benares) features a humid subtropical climate (Köppen Cwa) defined by extreme seasonal shifts. Located in the Indo-Gangetic Plain of northern India, the city’s weather is governed by the shifting monsoon winds and its proximity to the sacred Ganges River, which creates its own micro-atmospheric conditions.

Seasonal Weather Patterns

The Dry Summer (March – June)

Summer in Varanasi is a period of intensifying intensity. Beginning in March, temperatures rise rapidly from a pleasant 28°C (82°F) to searing peaks exceeding 45°C (113°F) by May and June. This season is characterized by a phenomenon known as the Loo—strong, hot, and dust-laden winds that blow from the west during the day, making the air feel like a furnace. The heat is dry initially, but humidity begins to creep up as the monsoon approaches in late June.

The Monsoon (July – September)

Arrival of the Southwest Monsoon provides relief from the heat but introduces oppressive humidity. Thunderstorms are frequent, and the city receives approximately 80% of its annual rainfall (around 1,110 mm) during these months. August is typically the wettest and muggiest month. The Ganges River often swells, submerging the lower steps of the famous ghats and halting boat traffic due to strong currents and rising water levels.

Post-Monsoon & Winter (October – February)

October and November are transitional months where the air clears and temperatures become mild. True winter sets in by December. While daytime temperatures are a comfortable 20°C–25°C (68°F–77°F), the region is prone to Cold Waves from the Himalayas, causing nighttime lows to plummet to 5°C (41°F) or lower.

Diurnal Rhythms and Microclimates

In Varanasi, the day’s climate often behaves differently near the river compared to the inland city center:

• The River Effect: The Ganges acts as a thermal regulator. In the scorching summer, the breeze near the water (the ghats) can feel a few degrees cooler than the congested narrow alleys (gallis) of the old city.
• Morning Mist and Fog: From December to January, the combination of river moisture and cool inland air creates a dense morning fog. This "Kashi mist" often blankets the river until 10:00 AM, creating a surreal, monochromatic atmosphere where the opposite bank disappears from view.
• Evening Transitions: Regardless of the season, sunset brings a distinct shift. In summer, the "heat island" effect of the stone ghats and brick buildings keeps the city warm long into the night, while in winter, the damp cold of the river air can make 10°C (50°F) feel significantly sharper.

Historical Context & Extreme Events

Varanasi has a history of dramatic weather events. In recent years, heatwaves have reached record-breaking levels, with temperatures touching 47.2°C (117°F). Conversely, during severe winters, the mercury has historically dropped near freezing. The city also faces periodic flooding when the Ganges rises above its danger mark, a cycle that locals have integrated into their lives for millennia.

Local Adaptation and Experience

Residents have developed a cultural rhythm that mirrors the climate:

• Summer Hibernation: During the peak heat of May, the city falls silent between 12:00 PM and 4:00 PM. Locals stay indoors, consuming cooling drinks like Thandai or Lassi. Activity resumes only after sunset when the stone ghats begin to release their stored heat.
• Winter Gatherings: Winter mornings are centered around small communal fires (alaap) where neighbors gather to stay warm. The