23-Day Italy Switzerland Andorra Croatia and Albania Itinerary

Day 1 · Tue, Sep 22
Milan, Italy

Arrival and family time in Milan

  1. ilan arrival and family time — Residential Milan; settle in and keep the afternoon flexible for jet lag (afternoon, ~3 hours).
  2. Navigli canals — Navigli; enjoy an easy waterside walk and browse independent shops (late afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Aperitivo near Naviglio Grande — Navigli; choose a canal-side bar for drinks and shared snacks (€15–25 per person; early evening, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Osteria del Binari — Navigli; relaxed Milanese dinner in a former railway setting (€35–55; evening, ~2 hours).

Afternoon — Arrive and Settle In

Keep your first few hours deliberately light: settle into your family’s residential neighborhood, shower, unpack, and take a short walk for coffee or groceries rather than trying to sightsee immediately. Milan is easy to navigate by ATM metro, tram, and bus; a single urban ticket costs about €2.20 and is valid for 90 minutes, while contactless payment works on the metro and many surface routes. Aim to leave for Navigli around 16:30–17:00, allowing roughly 20–35 minutes depending on the neighborhood and traffic.

Late Afternoon — Navigli Canals

Start your proper stroll along Naviglio Grande, following the canal between Porta Genova and Darsena. This is a good first-day route because it is relaxed, atmospheric, and mostly flat: browse the small design shops, vintage stores, and galleries along Ripa di Porta Ticinese, then continue toward the Darsena waterfront if you still have energy. The area becomes livelier toward sunset, but arriving before 18:00 gives you a calmer walk and makes it easier to find a table later. Allow about 1½ hours without rushing.

Early Evening — Aperitivo

Stay near Naviglio Grande for aperitivo, ideally choosing a canal-side bar once the tables begin filling around 18:30–19:00. Expect roughly €15–25 per person for a drink with shared snacks; in Milan, the food is generally included with the beverage rather than ordered as a separate meal, though quality varies. Treat this as a light introduction rather than dinner, and keep an eye on belongings in the busiest stretches near Alzaia Naviglio Grande.

Evening — Dinner at Osteria del Binari

For dinner, walk or take a short tram ride to Osteria del Binari, a warmly atmospheric restaurant set in a former railway environment. Reserve ahead if possible, particularly for a weekend, and expect about €35–55 per person depending on wine and courses. This is a good place to try classic Milanese dishes such as risotto alla milanese, cotoletta, or seasonal northern Italian plates. After dinner, return home by metro or tram rather than extending the evening—the first night is best kept easy so you can recover from travel and enjoy Milan properly tomorrow.

Day 2 · Wed, Sep 23
Milan, Italy

Extended stay in Milan

  1. Duomo di Milano — Duomo; visit Milan’s defining cathedral and rooftop terraces (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II — Duomo; admire the historic glass arcade and its elegant cafés (late morning, ~45 minutes).
  3. Piazza della Scala — Brera edge; see La Scala’s exterior and the central square (late morning, ~30 minutes).
  4. Luini — Duomo; try the famous panzerotti for a quick lunch (€5–10; midday, ~30 minutes).
  5. Pinacoteca di Brera — Brera; explore one of Italy’s finest collections of Renaissance and Baroque art (afternoon, ~2 hours).
  6. N’Ombra de Vin — Brera; enjoy wine and a light dinner in a historic cellar (€25–45; evening, ~1.5 hours).

Morning

Start early at Duomo di Milano, ideally arriving around 8:30–9:00, before the square becomes crowded with tour groups. Allow roughly two hours for the cathedral interior and rooftop terraces; the rooftop ticket is worth prioritizing, especially on a clear day when the Alps may be visible. Choose the stairs rather than the lift if you are comfortable—there is usually less waiting and it is cheaper. Tickets generally cost about €15–25 depending on the access option, and shoulders and knees must be covered. From the Duomo, walk straight through Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, taking time to look up at the glass dome and mosaic floor; the arcade is always accessible, while its cafés are best treated as an atmospheric stop rather than a budget breakfast.

Continue five minutes to Piazza della Scala and pause outside Teatro alla Scala. The square is compact, so half an hour is enough to see the theater façade, Leonardo da Vinci’s monument, and the elegant streets leading toward Brera. For lunch, walk back toward the Duomo for Luini and order a panzerotto—usually around €4–6. It is a takeaway counter, not a leisurely restaurant, so expect a queue at midday and eat while strolling or on a nearby bench. Keep some cash or a card ready, and avoid turning lunch into a long stop; the afternoon works better with time reserved for the museum.

Afternoon and Evening

After lunch, walk north for about 10–15 minutes through the lanes of Brera to Pinacoteca di Brera. Reserve a timed entry if possible; the gallery is commonly open Tuesday–Sunday from around 8:30 to 19:15, with last admission earlier, but check the official schedule because Monday closures and special exhibitions can affect hours. Allow two hours for highlights including works by Mantegna, Raphael, Caravaggio, and Piero della Francesca. When you leave, linger around Via Fiori Chiari and the quieter side streets before dinner rather than adding another major sight. Finish at N’Ombra de Vin, a atmospheric wine cellar beneath the former San Marco church area, for a glass of wine and a light dinner; budget roughly €25–45 per person. It is popular in the evening, so arriving around 18:30–19:00 or reserving ahead is sensible. Use the Duomo or Montenapoleone metro stations for the central area, though nearly every transfer today is easiest on foot.

Day 3 · Thu, Sep 24
Milan, Italy

Extended stay in Milan

  1. Sforzesco Castle — Castello; tour the fortress courtyards and museums (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Parco Sempione — Castello; walk through Milan’s central park toward its monuments (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Arco della Pace — Sempione; photograph the grand neoclassical arch and surrounding square (midday, ~30 minutes).
  4. Pavé — Porta Venezia; have a popular pastry-and-coffee lunch (€10–20; midday, ~1 hour).
  5. Fondazione Prada — South Milan; see contemporary art in a striking former distillery complex (afternoon, ~2 hours).
  6. Ratanà — Isola; finish with refined Lombard cooking in a relaxed restaurant (€45–70; evening, ~2 hours).

Morning

Spend the morning around Sforzesco Castle, entering through the fortress courtyards before the larger afternoon crowds arrive. Allow about two hours for the castle museums, which include works by Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci; museum hours are typically Tuesday–Sunday, roughly 10:00–17:30, with last admission earlier, so check the official schedule before going. From central Milan, take the M1 to Cairoli or Cadorna. Afterward, walk straight through Parco Sempione for about an hour, following the paths past the lawns and ponds rather than rushing between monuments.

Continue to Arco della Pace, at the park’s northwestern edge, for photographs and a relaxed look around the square. It is especially pleasant before lunch, when the surrounding cafés are beginning to fill but the area is not yet at its evening liveliest. From there, take the M1 from Conciliazione or a tram toward Porta Venezia, allowing around 20–30 minutes depending on the connection, and have a pastry-and-coffee lunch at Pavé. Expect approximately €10–20; the café is popular and seating can be limited, so avoid the busiest lunch window if you want to sit comfortably.

Afternoon and Evening

After lunch, take the M3 from Montenapoleone or Duomo toward Lodi T.I.B.B., then walk roughly 10 minutes to Fondazione Prada. Set aside two hours for the rotating contemporary-art exhibitions, the permanent installations, and the former distillery buildings themselves. The complex is generally open Wednesday–Monday into the early evening, but exhibition hours and last entry vary; reserve or check tickets online, particularly for temporary shows. From Lodi T.I.B.B., continue by M3 and change toward Isola, or use a taxi for the easiest 20–25-minute transfer.

Finish at Ratanà, where the cooking focuses on polished Lombard dishes in a relaxed setting near the Isola district. Book ahead for dinner—especially on Thursday through Saturday—and budget about €45–70 per person before drinks. If you arrive early, take a short walk around the modern streets near Piazza Gae Aulenti before sitting down; after dinner, the M5 from Isola is the simplest way back, though a taxi is worthwhile if you are staying outside the central neighborhoods.

Day 4 · Fri, Sep 25
Saint Moritz, Switzerland

Mountain escape in Saint Moritz

Getting there from Milan, Italy
Train: Trenord/Trenitalia to Tirano, then Rhätische Bahn Bernina regional train to St. Moritz (about 6.5–7.5h, €45–80). Depart around 06:00–07:00; book via trenitalia.com and rhb.ch. Reserve the Bernina panoramic train only if desired—the regular regional train is cheaper.
Drive via Lake Como and Tirano (about 4.5–5.5h, €90–140 fuel/tolls plus rental); more flexible but mountain parking and cross-border rules apply.
  1. Milan–Saint Moritz via the Bernina railway — Tirano–Saint Moritz; take the scenic regional train, reserving seats where possible (depart early morning; ~4.5 hours, plus transfer to Tirano).
  2. Lake St. Moritz — St. Moritz Bad; stroll the lakeside promenade after arrival (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  3. Muottas Muragl — Punt Muragl; ride the funicular for panoramic Engadin views, weather permitting (late afternoon, ~2.5 hours).
  4. Chesa Veglia — St. Moritz Dorf; dine in one of the town’s historic restaurants (€50–80; evening, ~2 hours).

Morning — The Bernina railway

Leave Milan around 06:00–07:00 for Tirano, with a connection at Lecco or Sondrio depending on the timetable. The full journey to St. Moritz usually takes 6½–7½ hours, so pack breakfast and water; the best scenery begins after Tirano, when the regional Bernina railway climbs past Brusio, Poschiavo, and the high-alpine lakes. Take the regular RhB train rather than paying extra for the panoramic service—its large windows open slightly, and you can usually lower them for photographs. Reserve seats if available, particularly for the right-hand side leaving Tirano, but don’t worry if you cannot: the journey is scenic from both sides. Keep your passport handy for the Italy–Switzerland border and expect cool, changeable weather on arrival.

Afternoon — Lake St. Moritz and Muottas Muragl

After checking in and leaving your luggage, take the local bus or walk downhill toward St. Moritz Bad for a gentle stroll along Lake St. Moritz. The promenade takes about an hour and is a good way to acclimatize after the long train ride; in late September, the larch-covered slopes may already be turning gold. From St. Moritz Bad, use the local bus back toward St. Moritz Dorf, then take the short train to Punt Muragl for the funicular up Muottas Muragl. Allow roughly 2½ hours including the ride, viewpoint, and a drink on the terrace. Check the final funicular departure before going up—services are seasonal and weather-dependent, and low cloud can erase the panorama. A return ticket is typically around CHF 35–45, with reductions available through some regional guest cards.

Evening — Dinner in the village

Return to St. Moritz Dorf and wander the narrow lanes around Via Maistra before dinner at Chesa Veglia, one of the resort’s historic dining houses. The atmosphere is traditional rather than minimalist, and this is the right place to try Engadin specialties such as capuns, pizzoccheri, or a hearty venison dish when available. Budget approximately CHF 50–80 per person before drinks, and book ahead because the restaurant is popular even outside peak ski season. Keep the evening relaxed: after the early start and long mountain railway, a short walk through the illuminated village is plenty before turning in.

Day 5 · Sat, Sep 26
Kandersteg, Switzerland

Lake Oeschinen mountain day

Getting there from Saint Moritz, Switzerland
Train: RhB to Chur, then SBB via Zürich and Bern to Kandersteg (about 7–8h, CHF 80–140). Depart around 06:00; book and check connections at sbb.ch. This is a long day with several changes.
Rental car via Chur, Zürich and Bern (about 5.5–6.5h, CHF 100–160 fuel/tolls); useful with luggage, but avoid late departure.
  1. Saint Moritz–Kandersteg rail journey — Kandersteg; allow a full travel morning with changes in Chur, Zürich, and Bern (depart early; ~6.5–7.5 hours).
  2. Kandersteg village — Village center; check in and take a gentle alpine walk after the long journey (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  3. Restaurant Ritter — Kandersteg; eat Swiss specialties near the village center (€30–50; evening, ~1.5 hours).

Morning — Rail journey and arrival

Leave Saint Moritz around 06:00, allowing a full morning and early afternoon for the rail journey to Kandersteg via Chur, Zürich, and Bern. Keep breakfast, water, and snacks in your day bag; with several changes, it is much easier than searching for food on every platform. Check the exact connections on SBB shortly before departure, and leave a little connection buffer where possible. You should reach Kandersteg in the mid- to late afternoon, depending on the timetable.

Afternoon — A gentle first look at Kandersteg

After checking in, keep the afternoon deliberately easy. Walk from Kandersteg railway station into the compact village center, where traditional wooden chalets, flower boxes, and mountain views make even a simple stroll feel distinctly Alpine. Follow the quiet lanes around Dorfstrasse and take about an hour to stretch your legs rather than starting a demanding hike after the long train day. If you need supplies, the village shops near the station are convenient, but opening hours can be limited on weekends and outside the summer season.

Evening — Swiss specialties at Restaurant Ritter

Have dinner at Restaurant Ritter, close to the village center. Expect roughly CHF 30–50 per person for a main meal and drink; this is a good evening for local comfort food such as rösti, fondue, or a seasonal meat dish. Reservations are sensible, particularly on a Saturday, and it is worth checking the current kitchen hours before setting out because smaller mountain restaurants sometimes close earlier in the shoulder season. After dinner, take a short walk back through Kandersteg—the village is especially peaceful after dark—then rest early for tomorrow’s Oeschinensee outing.

Day 6 · Sun, Sep 27
Milan, Italy

Return to Milan

Getting there from Kandersteg, Switzerland
Train: SBB to Brig, then EuroCity/Trenitalia via Domodossola to Milano Centrale (about 4.5–5.5h, CHF 60–110). After the early Oeschinensee visit, target a train around 12:00–13:00; book via sbb.ch or trenitalia.com.
Drive via Brig, Simplon Pass and Domodossola (about 3.5–4.5h, CHF 70–120 fuel/tolls).
  1. Oeschinensee cable car and lakeside walk — Kandersteg; visit the spectacular alpine lake before leaving, checking trail and cable-car conditions (early morning, ~3 hours).
  2. Kandersteg–Milan rail journey — Via Bern, Zürich, and the Gotthard route; depart around midday and allow a full afternoon for transfers (~6.5–8 hours).
  3. Family dinner in Milan — Residential Milan; keep the evening restful after the return journey (€20–40; evening, ~1.5 hours).

Early Morning — Oeschinensee

Have an early breakfast in Kandersteg and walk or take the local bus to the Oeschinensee cable car station. Aim for the first operating cabin—typically around 8:30, though September schedules can change—because the lake is most peaceful before the day-trippers arrive. The return cable-car ticket is usually around CHF 32–36, with reductions available using a Swiss Travel Pass.

From the upper station, follow the signed lakeside route toward Oeschinensee. Allow roughly three hours including stops; the easiest path reaches the viewpoints above the deep-blue lake, while the full lakeside trail may be restricted by weather, rockfall, or seasonal closures. Wear proper shoes, carry water, and check the cable-car and trail status that morning at the station or on the official Oeschinen website. Return to Kandersteg by late morning, collect your luggage, and buy sandwiches or pastries at the village bakery before heading to the station for the Milan connection.

Afternoon — Rail Journey Back to Milan

Target a departure around noon, allowing time for the walk from the cable car and a small buffer for the mountain transport. The planned route is through Bern, Zürich, and Brig, continuing via Domodossola and the Simplon route to Milano Centrale; expect a long afternoon with several changes, so keep tickets, passports, snacks, and a light layer easily accessible. Check the platform and connection sequence in the SBB Mobile app before leaving Kandersteg, and avoid booking connections with less than 10–15 minutes if you have luggage.

You will likely reach Milano Centrale in the early evening, depending on the timetable. From there, use ATM metro, tram, or a taxi for the final leg to your family’s residential neighborhood; the metro is generally the simplest option, but a taxi is sensible after a full day with bags. Keep dinner intentionally easy: eat at home with your parents, or pick up takeaway from a nearby rosticceria or pizzeria rather than crossing the city again. Budget roughly €20–40 per person, and make this a restful evening after the mountain walk and lengthy return journey.

Day 7 · Mon, Sep 28
Rome, Italy

Historic center of Rome

Getting there from Milan, Italy
Frecciarossa or Italo high-speed train from Milano Centrale to Roma Termini (about 3h, €40–100). Depart 07:00–08:00 to preserve the planned Rome sightseeing; book via trenitalia.com or italotreno.com.
  1. Milan–Rome high-speed train — Milano Centrale–Roma Termini; depart early and reserve seats in advance (~3 hours).
  2. Spanish Steps — Spagna; begin Rome’s historic center with the iconic staircase and Piazza di Spagna (late morning, ~45 minutes).
  3. Trevi Fountain — Trevi; see Rome’s most famous fountain before the largest crowds (late morning, ~30 minutes).
  4. Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina — Campo de’ Fiori area; enjoy Roman specialties with advance booking (€40–70; lunch, ~1.5 hours).
  5. Pantheon — Piazza della Rotonda; admire one of antiquity’s best-preserved monuments (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  6. Piazza Navona — Historic center; finish among Bernini’s fountains and Baroque façades (early evening, ~1 hour).

Morning — Arrival and the Spanish Steps

Take an early Frecciarossa or Italo from Milano Centrale to Roma Termini, ideally departing between 7:00 and 8:00; the journey takes about three hours. Reserve a seat in advance, and keep your luggage compact—at Roma Termini, use the Metro A toward Battistini and get off at Spagna, then walk a few minutes to the Spanish Steps. Begin with Piazza di Spagna and the staircase before the afternoon crowds arrive; allow around 45 minutes, remembering that sitting on the steps is prohibited. From here, a pleasant 10-minute walk through Via dei Condotti and the lanes of Trevi brings you to the Trevi Fountain. Spend about half an hour admiring it, but keep valuables secure and avoid stopping at the restaurants immediately surrounding the fountain, where prices are inflated.

Lunch and Afternoon

Continue on foot for roughly 15 minutes toward Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina near Campo de’ Fiori. A reservation is essential, particularly for lunch; expect about €40–70 per person for a full meal. Order Roman classics such as carbonara, amatriciana, or cacio e pepe, and leave time to enjoy the excellent cured meats and wine selection rather than rushing. After lunch, walk north-east for approximately 12 minutes to the Pantheon in Piazza della Rotonda. The visit usually takes about an hour; entry is ticketed, and shoulders and knees should be covered. Check the official schedule before going, since religious services can affect access and opening times.

Early Evening — Piazza Navona

Finish with a relaxed 5-minute walk to Piazza Navona, arriving in the early evening when the Baroque façades take on a warmer light and street life starts to build. Spend an hour circling Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers, the Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone, and the surrounding lanes. For a drink afterward, choose a bar a couple of streets away rather than a terrace directly on the square, where prices are noticeably higher. From Piazza Navona, Roma Termini is about 20–25 minutes by taxi or 30–35 minutes by bus; keep the evening unhurried, as tomorrow’s sightseeing is best started rested.

Day 8 · Tue, Sep 29
Rome, Italy

Extended stay in Rome

  1. Colosseum — Colosseo; tour Rome’s landmark amphitheater with a timed ticket (morning, ~1.5 hours).
  2. Roman Forum and Palatine Hill — Archaeological area; explore the heart of ancient Rome (late morning, ~2 hours).
  3. La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali — Monti; eat traditional Roman dishes near the archaeological zone (€35–55; lunch, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Basilica di San Clemente — Celio; descend through unusually well-preserved layers of Roman history (afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  5. Monti evening walk — Monti; browse small boutiques and enjoy an unhurried neighborhood aperitivo (evening, ~1.5 hours).

Morning — Colosseum

Return to the Colosseum with a timed entry around 8:30–9:00, before the exposed archaeological sites become hot and busy. Allow about 1½ hours for the amphitheater, security, and the upper levels included in your ticket. Bring water and avoid large backpacks; tickets are generally around €18–25 depending on the operator and access, and you should use the official Parco archeologico del Colosseo booking channel rather than street sellers. From Roma Termini, take Metro B to Colosseo—the ride is only a few minutes—or walk for roughly 20 minutes.

Late Morning and Lunch — Roman Forum and Palatine Hill

Use the same archaeological ticket for the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, entering directly from the Arco di Settimio Severo side after the amphitheater. Give yourselves around two hours to wander past the temples, basilicas, and old processional streets; the viewpoints from Palatine Hill are particularly good for understanding how tightly packed ancient Rome was. The area often closes around 5:30–7:00 depending on the season, with last entry roughly an hour before closing, so check the date-specific schedule. For lunch, walk up toward Monti—about 10–15 minutes—to La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali on Via della Madonna dei Monti. Reserve ahead if possible; expect approximately €35–55 per person for Roman classics such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, or saltimbocca.

Afternoon — Basilica di San Clemente

After lunch, stroll south through Monti and along Via dei Fori Imperiali toward Basilica di San Clemente, roughly 15 minutes on foot. Descend beneath the present church through remarkably preserved layers of Roman history, including the fourth-century basilica and an earlier Roman street with underground water running beside it. The lower levels are cool and dim, so a light layer is useful; allow about 1½ hours. Entry is usually around €10, and the basilica commonly opens in the afternoon after a midday pause, often from about 3:00–6:00, though hours can change and religious services may restrict access.

Evening — Monti

Walk back to Monti via Via dei Serpenti for an easy evening among independent clothing shops, small galleries, and wine bars. Keep it unhurried rather than adding another major sight: browse around Piazza della Madonna dei Monti, then settle for an aperitivo at a neighborhood bar such as Ai Tre Scalini or La Barrique. The lanes become livelier from about 6:30 onward, and most places are easiest to reach on foot from Cavour Metro station.

Day 9 · Wed, Sep 30
Dubrovnik, Croatia

Adriatic coast in Dubrovnik

Getting there from Rome, Italy
Flight from Rome Fiumicino to Dubrovnik, ideally a direct seasonal flight if operating (about 1h 20m flight, 3–5h door-to-door, €80–220). Take a morning departure; book via airline websites or Google Flights. Allow airport and border-transfer time.
Connecting flight via Zagreb, Split or Vienna (4–7h total, €150–350), if no convenient direct flight operates.
  1. Rome–Dubrovnik flight — Rome airport–Dubrovnik; choose a morning flight and allow time for airport transfer and border formalities (~3–5 hours door to door).
  2. Pile Gate and Stradun — Old Town; enter Dubrovnik’s historic core and walk its limestone main street (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  3. Rector’s Palace — Old Town; visit the elegant former seat of the Republic of Ragusa (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  4. Dubrovnik Cathedral — Old Town; see the Baroque cathedral and treasury (late afternoon, ~45 minutes).
  5. Proto — Old Town; have a seafood-focused dinner in a long-established restaurant (€45–75; evening, ~2 hours).

Afternoon — Entering the Old Town

After the morning flight and airport transfer, expect to reach Dubrovnik in the early or mid-afternoon. From the airport, an airport shuttle is usually simplest; taxis are faster but more expensive, particularly if traffic builds along the coastal road. If you are staying inside or immediately beside the walls, leave larger luggage at your accommodation before walking to Pile Gate. Go through the gate into the old town, then take your time along Stradun—the polished limestone main street is busiest around this hour, but the narrow side lanes quickly become quieter. Allow about an hour for the entrance, orientation, and a little wandering toward Gundulić Square.

Continue a short walk to Rector’s Palace, one of the most atmospheric interiors in the old town. The palace generally stays open into the early evening in September, though closing times can vary, so check the posted hours before committing to dinner. Allow roughly an hour to see the arcaded courtyard, formal rooms, and exhibits on Dubrovnik’s maritime and political history. Tickets are commonly around €15, with combination tickets sometimes available through the Dubrovnik Museums network.

Late Afternoon — Cathedral and Old-Town Wandering

From Rector’s Palace, walk across the square to Dubrovnik Cathedral. The Baroque interior is cool and peaceful after the bright stone streets, while the treasury contains relics and devotional pieces associated with the city’s long history. Set aside about 45 minutes; modest clothing is appreciated, and services may restrict access temporarily. Afterwards, avoid trying to force in another major attraction—wander the lanes around St. Blaise Church, the old harbor, and the quieter streets behind Stradun, stopping for a coffee or a cold drink as the day-trippers begin to leave.

Evening — Seafood at Proto

Have dinner at Proto, a long-established restaurant tucked just off Stradun on Široka Street. It is a good first-night choice for Dalmatian seafood: expect grilled fish, shellfish, and traditional preparations rather than a bargain meal, with dinner usually costing about €45–75 per person before extensive drinks. Reserve ahead, especially for an outdoor table, and ask what was caught locally that day. Afterward, take an unhurried walk back through the illuminated old town; the stone streets are far more enjoyable once the main evening crowds have thinned.

Day 10 · Thu, Oct 1
Dubrovnik, Croatia

Extended stay in Dubrovnik

  1. Dubrovnik City Walls — Old Town perimeter; walk the walls early for views over the rooftops and Adriatic (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. War Photo Limited — Old Town; consider the powerful photography exhibition on conflict and journalism (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Gundulićeva Poljana Market — Old Town; browse produce, preserves, and local products (late morning, ~45 minutes).
  4. Lokrum Island — Old Port; take the boat for pine forests, ruins, and swimming spots (afternoon, ~3 hours).
  5. Pantarul — Lapad; eat modern Dalmatian cuisine away from the busiest center (€35–60; evening, ~2 hours).

Morning

Start early at the Dubrovnik City Walls, ideally around 8:00, before the stone heats up and cruise-day crowds arrive. Allow about two hours for the complete circuit, including the sea-facing towers and views across the orange rooftops; wear shoes with good grip, since some sections are uneven. Tickets are usually around €35–40, and access is through the Old Town entrances near Pile Gate or Ploče Gate. After descending, take a quiet late-morning pause at War Photo Limited on Antuninska Street. The exhibition is serious and often emotionally intense, so allow roughly an hour; admission is generally about €10–12, with opening hours commonly beginning around 10:00.

Continue downhill to Gundulićeva Poljana Market, where the morning trade is winding down. Browse dried figs, candied orange peel, lavender products, rakija, and seasonal fruit, but compare prices before buying—stalls closest to the main sightseeing route are not always the best value. This is a good place for a small snack rather than a full lunch; try local cheese, fruit, or a pastry from a nearby bakery.

Afternoon — Lokrum Island

Walk down to the Old Port and take the short boat to Lokrum Island, usually around 10–15 minutes each way. Boats generally run frequently in season, but check the day’s timetable before committing; return tickets are often around €27–30. Give yourself about three hours to wander through the pine forest, see the Benedictine monastery ruins, and find one of the rocky swimming platforms. Bring water, swimwear, and shoes suitable for bare rock—the island has very little sand and limited shade near the bathing areas. Keep an eye on the final boat back, and remember that swimming in the island’s saltwater lake is seasonal and weather-dependent.

Evening

Return to the Old Port and take a taxi or Libertas bus toward Lapad—roughly 15–25 minutes depending on traffic—rather than walking the longer, less interesting road route. Have dinner at Pantarul, a relaxed neighborhood restaurant known for modern Dalmatian cooking and thoughtful local ingredients. Book ahead, especially for an evening seating; expect approximately €35–60 per person depending on wine and courses. After dinner, take a gentle walk along Uvala Lapad before returning to the Old Town or your accommodation.

Day 11 · Fri, Oct 2
Split, Croatia

Island and coastal Croatia

Getting there from Dubrovnik, Croatia
Jadrolinija or TP Line catamaran, if the October timetable operates (about 4.5–5.5h, €40–60). Depart early; verify seasonal service and book via jadrolinija.hr or tp-line.hr.
FlixBus or Arriva intercity bus via the Neum corridor (about 5–6.5h, €20–35). More reliable in the off-season; bring identification for the Bosnia border crossing.
  1. Dubrovnik–Split coastal journey — Bus or catamaran, depending on the seasonal timetable; depart early and allow roughly 4.5–6 hours including check-in and road conditions.
  2. Diocletian’s Palace — Split center; explore the living Roman palace and its underground cellars (afternoon, ~2 hours).
  3. Riva promenade — Waterfront; enjoy Split’s palm-lined harborfront at sunset (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  4. Konoba Fetivi — Varoš; eat traditional Dalmatian seafood and grilled dishes (€35–55; evening, ~2 hours).

Morning — Dubrovnik to Split

Leave Dubrovnik as early as the October timetable allows, ideally on the first Jadrolinija or TP Line catamaran. The sea crossing is the pleasant option, but services can be reduced after summer, so confirm the sailing a few days ahead; if it is not running, take a FlixBus or Arriva bus instead and carry your passport for the Bosnia border crossing. Allow roughly 4½–6 hours door to door, including check-in and possible delays. On arrival, Split’s ferry port is right beside the center, making it easy to walk directly into the historic core.

Afternoon — Diocletian’s Palace

After dropping your bags, spend about two hours exploring Diocletian’s Palace, which is not a single fenced-off monument but a living neighborhood of lanes, homes, cafés, and shops inside the Roman walls. Begin at the Peristyle, then wander through the palace cellars and the narrow streets around Krešimirova Street and Pjaca. The cellars usually close in the early evening and cost roughly €8–12 depending on the ticket, so visit them before settling into the waterfront. For a quick lunch or coffee nearby, Bokeria Kitchen & Wine is reliable, though reservations are useful; otherwise, look for a simple slice of soparnik or a filled pastry at a bakery rather than committing to a long meal.

Late Afternoon and Evening — Riva and Konoba Fetivi

Walk out through the palace’s western side toward the Riva promenade, where the palm-lined harborfront is at its best in the late afternoon. Take an unhurried hour here, watching ferries come and go and turning briefly into the Varoš lanes behind the waterfront. For dinner, continue to Konoba Fetivi, a traditional Dalmatian restaurant known for seafood, grilled fish, and straightforward local cooking. Expect approximately €35–55 per person; book ahead if possible, especially for an outdoor table. Order whatever fish is fresh that day, and allow a relaxed two hours—the restaurant is better suited to a lingering meal than a quick stop.

Day 12 · Sat, Oct 3
Split, Croatia

Historic streets of Split

  1. Marjan Hill — Marjan; hike or walk through pine forest to viewpoints over Split (morning, ~2.5 hours).
  2. Meštrović Gallery — Meje; visit the sculptor’s former home and garden overlooking the sea (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Bar — Old Town; enjoy a lively Mediterranean lunch (€25–45; midday, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Cathedral of Saint Domnius — Palace; climb or visit the historic cathedral complex (afternoon, ~1 hour).
  5. Mestrovic’s Grgur Ninski — Palace entrance; see the famous statue and rub its toe for luck (late afternoon, ~20 minutes).
  6. Gelateria Emiliana — Old Town; finish with a highly regarded local gelato (€5–10; evening, ~30 minutes).

Morning — Marjan Hill

Start early with a walk from the Riva toward Marjan Hill, entering the wooded paths above the Veli Varoš neighborhood. Allow around 2½ hours for the pine forest trails and viewpoints toward the islands; the route is mostly gentle but includes steps and uneven stone, so wear proper shoes and carry water. The best light is on the eastern and southern paths, while the small chapels and stone terraces make the hill feel pleasantly removed from the city. If you want coffee afterward, stop briefly at Café Bar Vidilica for one of Split’s classic harbor views, though it can be busy by late morning.

Late Morning — Meštrović Gallery

Walk or take a short taxi ride along the waterfront to the Meje district and Meštrović Gallery, housed in the former home of sculptor Ivan Meštrović. Set aside about 1½ hours for the interior rooms, sculpture collection, and garden, where works are framed by cypress trees and the Adriatic. The gallery is generally open Tuesday–Sunday, with hours commonly around 9:00–19:00 in the warmer months; check the official schedule because October hours may be shorter. From Marjan Hill, the walk takes roughly 20–30 minutes downhill and along the coast, while a taxi is useful if your legs are already tired.

Lunch and Afternoon — Bokeria, the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, and Grgur Ninski

Head back into the Old Town for lunch at Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Bar, a lively, stylish choice near Marmontova Street. Expect about €25–45 per person for a relaxed meal with wine; reservations are sensible, particularly for a later lunch. Afterward, wander into Diocletian’s Palace and visit the Cathedral of Saint Domnius complex. Allow about an hour for the cathedral, treasury, and bell-tower climb if open; the tower has narrow, exposed sections, so take care if you are uncomfortable with heights. Entry is usually paid separately or through a combination ticket, and modest clothing is appreciated inside the cathedral. Before leaving the palace area, pause at Mestrovic’s Grgur Ninski near the Golden Gate—rub the statue’s polished toe for luck, but be mindful of other visitors gathering around it.

Evening — Gelato in the Old Town

Keep the evening unhurried with a final walk through the palace lanes toward Gelateria Emiliana. A serving usually costs around €5–10, and flavors can sell out later in the day, so do not leave it too late. Take your gelato back toward the Pjaca or the quieter lanes around Kružićeva Street and let the crowds thin before dinner. Split’s center is compact, so all of these final stops are easily reached on foot; use the Riva as your straightforward reference point if you need to return to your accommodation.

Day 13 · Sun, Oct 4
Kotor, Montenegro

Kotor Bay gateway

Getting there from Split, Croatia
Direct long-distance bus, commonly FlixBus or Croatia Bus, via Dubrovnik and the Montenegro border (about 6–8h, €35–60). Depart early, ideally before 07:00; book via FlixBus or Bus Croatia. Border delays can be substantial.
Private transfer via Dubrovnik and Herceg Novi (about 5–6h plus border delays, €250–400 per vehicle); worthwhile for a group or fixed arrival time.
  1. Split–Kotor journey — Bus or private transfer via the Montenegro border; depart early and allow approximately 6–8 hours, including border delays.
  2. Kotor Old Town — Historic center; wander the compact medieval streets and squares after arrival (late afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Cathedral of Saint Tryphon — Old Town; see one of Kotor’s most important Romanesque landmarks (late afternoon, ~45 minutes).
  4. Konoba Scala Santa — Old Town; enjoy Montenegrin and seafood dishes in a historic setting (€25–45; evening, ~1.5 hours).

Late Afternoon — Arrive and Wander Kotor Old Town

After the long bus ride from Split, expect to reach Kotor in the late afternoon; the Croatia–Montenegro border can add anything from a few minutes to well over an hour, so keep the evening flexible. From the bus station, it is only a five-minute walk to the Sea Gate and the pedestrian center of Kotor Old Town. Spend about 1½ hours wandering without a fixed route: look into St. Luke’s Square, the narrow lanes around Gurdić Gate, and the small craft shops tucked into the medieval stone buildings. The old town is compact and easy to explore on foot, but the polished limestone can be slippery after rain.

Late Afternoon — Cathedral of Saint Tryphon

Make your main stop at the Cathedral of Saint Tryphon, on Trg Svetog Tripuna, before closing time—hours often vary by season, but it commonly closes in the late afternoon, with admission around €3–4. Allow roughly 45 minutes for the Romanesque interior, the treasury, and the small upper areas; modest clothing is appreciated. If you arrive too late for entry, admire the cathedral’s twin towers and carved façade from the square, then continue through the quieter lanes toward North Gate rather than trying to squeeze in another major attraction.

Evening — Dinner at Konoba Scala Santa

Have dinner at Konoba Scala Santa, a characterful restaurant in the old town set in a historic stone space. Reserve ahead if possible, particularly for an outdoor table, and budget about €25–45 per person depending on seafood and wine. Look for Montenegrin-style dishes such as grilled fish, black risotto, or lamb, and ask what was caught locally that day. After dinner, take a slow loop back through the softly lit squares toward the Sea Gate; the old town is at its most atmospheric once the day-trippers have left. Keep some cash with you, as smaller cafés and old-town establishments may not always handle cards reliably.

Day 14 · Mon, Oct 5
Budva, Montenegro

Riviera and old town in Budva

Getting there from Kotor, Montenegro
Local intercity bus from Kotor bus station to Budva (about 35–50m, €3–5), using departing buses listed at busticket4.me or the station. Leave after the morning Kotor activities, allowing traffic near the Bay of Kotor.
Taxi (about 30–40m, €25–40); practical with luggage or several travelers.
  1. Kotor Fortress of San Giovanni — Old Town hillside; climb early for extraordinary bay views, carrying water and allowing for heat (morning, ~2.5 hours).
  2. Perast — Bay of Kotor; take a short boat trip to Our Lady of the Rocks and explore the waterfront village (late morning, ~2.5 hours).
  3. Verige 65 — Verige Strait; stop for a scenic seafood lunch overlooking the narrowest part of the bay (€25–45; midday, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Budva Old Town — Budva; walk the fortified lanes and citadel area after returning toward the coast (afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  5. Jadran Kod Krsta — Budva waterfront; dine on Adriatic seafood by the marina (€30–50; evening, ~1.5 hours).

Morning — Kotor Fortress of San Giovanni

Begin early at Kotor Fortress of San Giovanni, before the exposed stone steps become hot. From Kotor Old Town, follow the entrance signs behind the northern walls and allow about 2½ hours for the climb and return; the route is steep, with more than 1,300 steps in places. Carry at least a litre of water per person, wear shoes with a firm grip, and bring cash for the small entrance fee, usually around €8–10 in season. The views over Kotor Bay are exceptional, especially from the upper switchbacks, but take your time on the descent.

Late Morning — Perast and Our Lady of the Rocks

Return through Kotor Old Town and continue along the bay to Perast, roughly 20–30 minutes by taxi or local bus depending on traffic. This compact waterfront village is best explored on foot: take a short boat trip from the promenade to Our Lady of the Rocks, the artificial island church just offshore, then wander among the stone houses and quiet lanes. Boats generally cost about €5–10 per person, with the church and museum often charging a modest additional fee; confirm the return time before leaving the pier so you are not waiting in the midday sun.

Lunch and Afternoon — Verige Strait, Then Budva

For lunch, stop at Verige 65, overlooking the narrowest section of the bay. Expect roughly €25–45 per person for seafood, grilled fish, salad, and drinks; reserve or call ahead if possible, since the restaurant’s scenic terrace fills quickly. Afterward, continue toward the coast and take a local bus or taxi from Kotor bus station to Budva—the bus takes about 35–50 minutes and usually costs €3–5, while a taxi is more convenient with luggage at around €25–40. Leave enough margin for traffic around the bay. In Budva Old Town, spend the afternoon strolling the fortified lanes, small squares, and Budva Citadel area; allow about 1½ hours, and check the citadel’s seasonal closing time before relying on entry.

Evening — Waterfront Seafood

Finish at Jadran Kod Krsta, on the Budva waterfront near the marina. Ask for a terrace table and order local Adriatic seafood, grilled fish, or black risotto; dinner typically runs €30–50 per person with wine. The promenade is liveliest around sunset, but the restaurant can be busy in October as well, so booking ahead is sensible. After dinner, a gentle walk along the marina and the seafront gives you an easy first look at Budva after dark without adding another major sight.

Day 15 · Tue, Oct 6
Tirana, Albania

Albanian capital introduction

Getting there from Budva, Montenegro
Direct bus via Shkodër, usually Old Town Travel or local operators (about 5–7h, €25–40). Depart around 07:00–08:00; book via busticket4.me or at Budva bus station. Border and road delays are common.
Private transfer via Shkodër (about 4.5–6h, €180–280 per vehicle), best for a group and a dependable arrival.
  1. Budva–Tirana transfer — Bus or private transfer via Shkodër; depart early and allow approximately 5–7 hours with border and road conditions.
  2. Skanderbeg Square — Central Tirana; orient yourself among the city’s main civic landmarks (late afternoon, ~45 minutes).
  3. Et’hem Bey Mosque — Skanderbeg Square; visit one of Tirana’s most important historic buildings, respecting visitor rules (late afternoon, ~30 minutes).
  4. Bunk’Art 2 — Central Tirana; learn about Albania’s communist-era security apparatus (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  5. Oda Garden — Near the center; try traditional Albanian dishes in a welcoming courtyard setting (€20–35; evening, ~1.5 hours).

Late Afternoon — Skanderbeg Square

After the early bus from Budva via Shkodër, expect to arrive in Tirana around mid- to late afternoon, although the Montenegro–Albania border and traffic can easily shift that by an hour or more. From the bus terminal, take a short taxi to the center rather than walking with luggage; agree on the fare beforehand or use a local ride-hailing app where available. Begin at Skanderbeg Square, Tirana’s broad civic heart, and spend about 45 minutes getting your bearings among the National History Museum, the Palace of Culture, and the equestrian statue of Skanderbeg. The square is especially pleasant toward sunset, when locals gather and the surrounding cafés fill up.

Late Afternoon — Et’hem Bey Mosque and Bunk’Art 2

Walk directly across the square to Et’hem Bey Mosque, one of the few historic buildings in central Tirana to have survived the communist period. Visiting is generally free, though opening hours can be irregular and access may pause during prayers; dress modestly, remove your shoes, and follow staff instructions. Allow around 30 minutes for the interior and its delicate frescoes. From there, Bunk’Art 2 is a five-minute walk down Abdi Toptani Street. The compact museum occupies a former Cold War bunker and explains the work of Albania’s communist-era security apparatus; plan on roughly an hour. It is usually open into the early evening, but check the current closing time before setting out, as seasonal hours can change.

Evening — Dinner at Oda Garden

Finish with dinner at Oda Garden, a traditional restaurant tucked near the center, where the courtyard setting feels much calmer than the surrounding streets. Order a selection to share—tavë kosi, qifqi, grilled vegetables, and byrek are good choices—along with local beer or Albanian wine. Expect approximately €20–35 per person depending on drinks and the number of dishes; reservations are useful if you arrive after 19:30. After dinner, take an unhurried walk through Murat Toptani Street, a pedestrianized lane close to the square, or return to your accommodation by taxi. Keep the night relaxed: after a long border-crossing day, Tirana is best enjoyed with a little room for an impromptu café stop rather than another major attraction.

Day 16 · Wed, Oct 7
Sarande, Albania

Riviera escape in Sarande

Getting there from Tirana, Albania
Early intercity bus from Tirana South/East Bus Terminal, commonly via RivieraBus or local operators, through Vlorë and the Llogara route (about 5–6.5h, €12–20). Book at the terminal or via GjirafaTravel; depart around 06:30–07:30.
Private transfer (about 4.5–5.5h, €120–180 per vehicle), more comfortable on the winding coastal route.
  1. Tirana–Sarandë journey — Bus or private transfer via the Llogara route; depart early and allow approximately 5–6 hours.
  2. Sarandë promenade — Waterfront; take an easy orientation walk beside the Ionian Sea (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  3. Lekursi Castle — Above Sarandë; watch sunset across the bay and toward Corfu (early evening, ~1.5 hours).
  4. Haxhi — Sarandë; enjoy seafood and Mediterranean cooking near the waterfront (€25–45; evening, ~1.5 hours).

Morning — Tirana to the Ionian coast

Leave Tirana from the South/East Bus Terminal around 06:30–07:30, allowing roughly 5–6½ hours to reach Sarandë. The route through Vlorë and over the Llogara Pass is scenic but winding, so sit toward the front if you are prone to motion sickness. Carry water and snacks, and keep your arrival plans flexible: roadside stops and traffic can easily push the journey into the afternoon. A private transfer is worth considering for a group, especially if you want photo stops along the coast.

Afternoon — Sarandë promenade

After checking in and taking a short rest, walk the Sarandë promenade for an easy first look at the town and the Ionian Sea. The waterfront is liveliest near Rruga Jonianet, where cafés and small kiosks are useful for a coffee or cold drink. Allow about an hour rather than trying to cover the whole shoreline; the best part of the walk is simply watching the fishing boats, ferries, and changing light across the bay. From the promenade, arrange a taxi up to Lekursi Castle—the steep uphill route is not pleasant on foot in the afternoon heat, and a short ride usually costs around €5–10.

Evening — Sunset above the bay and dinner

Reach Lekursi Castle roughly 60–90 minutes before sunset. The castle itself is modest, but its terrace gives one of the finest views over Sarandë, Ksamil, and Corfu, particularly when the hills turn gold. Entry is generally free or inexpensive, though you may pay more if using the restaurant terrace; check the sunset time locally, since October evenings arrive early. Return to the waterfront for dinner at Haxhi, a relaxed choice for seafood and Mediterranean cooking. Expect approximately €25–45 per person with drinks, and reserve or arrive early if you want a table near the water. Afterward, keep the evening unhurried—Rruga Jonianet is pleasant for a final stroll, but tomorrow’s Riviera travel is easier with an early night.

Day 17 · Thu, Oct 8
Himare, Albania

Albanian Riviera in Himare

Getting there from Sarande, Albania
Rental car or private taxi along the SH8 Riviera road (about 1.5–2h, €60–100 taxi or €35–70/day rental plus fuel). This is best for Porto Palermo and beaches; buses are infrequent and inconvenient for the excursion.
  1. Himarë and Porto Palermo excursion — Albanian Riviera; travel north along the coast, stopping at beaches and Porto Palermo Castle (morning to afternoon, ~6 hours).
  2. Porto Palermo Castle — Porto Palermo; visit the atmospheric coastal fortress and its small peninsula (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Himara Beach — Himarë; swim or relax on the town beach after the sightseeing drive (afternoon, ~2 hours).
  4. Taverna Lefkimi — Himarë; have a casual dinner of grilled seafood and local dishes (€20–35; evening, ~1.5 hours).

Morning — Himarë to Porto Palermo

Arrange a rental car or private taxi from Himarë early, ideally around 9:00, for the coastal drive along the SH8 toward Porto Palermo. The road takes roughly 30–40 minutes without stops, but build in time for viewpoints and the small coves along the way; the coastal scenery is the real highlight, with steep mountains dropping toward clear Ionian water. Ask your driver to pause at one or two safe roadside viewpoints rather than trying to stop on narrow bends.

Continue to Porto Palermo Castle, an atmospheric stone fortress on a tiny peninsula. Allow about an hour to walk around the walls and look back across the bay; opening hours can be irregular outside high summer, and admission is usually only a few hundred lek. Wear shoes with decent grip and bring water, as there is little shade on the peninsula. Afterward, have a simple coffee or cold drink at one of the seasonal waterfront cafés before returning toward Himarë.

Afternoon — Himara Beach

Head back into Himarë for a relaxed afternoon at Himara Beach, where you can swim, rent a sunbed, or simply sit beneath the tamarisks with a view of the bay. The town beach is convenient after the excursion, with cafés and small shops close by; allow around two hours rather than trying to add another distant beach. September is usually ideal here—warm enough for swimming, but noticeably calmer than July and August. Keep some cash in lek, since smaller beach businesses may not accept cards.

Evening — Dinner at Taverna Lefkimi

For dinner, walk to Taverna Lefkimi and settle in for grilled seafood, seasonal vegetables, salad, and local specialties. Expect roughly €20–35 per person depending on the fish and wine, and arrive around 19:30–20:00 if you want a relaxed table before the evening fills. Order whatever seafood was caught that day rather than choosing only from the standard menu, and finish with a glass of local white wine. After dinner, take an easy stroll along the seafront before turning in; the Riviera is at its best when you leave the evening unhurried.

Day 18 · Fri, Oct 9
Tirana, Albania

Return to Tirana

Getting there from Himare, Albania
Early bus via Vlorë and Fier (about 5.5–7h, €15–25), booked through GjirafaTravel or locally. Depart around 06:00–07:00, especially if stopping in Gjirokastër.
Private transfer via Gjirokastër (about 4.5–5.5h driving time, €130–200 per vehicle, plus stop time).
  1. Sarandë–Tirana journey — Bus or private transfer via Gjirokastër; allow approximately 5–6 hours and leave early.
  2. Gjirokastër Castle — Gjirokastër; break the journey with Albania’s dramatic hilltop fortress (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. Pazari i Ri — Tirana; browse the market district after arrival (late afternoon, ~1 hour).
  4. Komiteti – Kafe Muzeum — Blloku; combine coffee with an entertaining museum of Albanian domestic history (€5–15; early evening, ~1 hour).
  5. Mullixhiu — Near Grand Park; enjoy thoughtful modern Albanian cuisine (€35–60; evening, ~2 hours).

Early Morning — Himarë to Gjirokastër

Leave Himarë around 06:00–06:30, ideally by private transfer rather than bus if you want to include Gjirokastër Castle comfortably. The drive inland via Sarandë takes roughly 2½–3 hours, with the full journey to Tirana taking about 5–6 hours before the stop. Ask the driver to drop you near the castle entrance in Gjirokastër’s Old Bazaar; the hilltop approach is steep, and luggage is best left in the vehicle or stored with your accommodation in Tirana. Allow around 1½ hours for the fortress, whose courtyards, Ottoman-era walls, military museum, and views across the Drino Valley are the main highlights. The entrance fee is usually modest, but opening times and ticket prices can change seasonally.

Late Morning — Gjirokastër to Tirana

After the castle, spend a few minutes walking through the stone-paved Pazari i Vjetër, perhaps stopping for Turkish coffee or a quick pastry before continuing north. The road to Tirana normally takes another 3–4 hours by car, longer by bus, so keep lunch simple on the way and expect to arrive in the late afternoon. A private transfer is worth considering today: it lets you keep the castle stop without worrying about infrequent connections, and a full vehicle generally costs about €130–200. If using the regular bus, confirm the departure point and timetable locally in Sarandë or Gjirokastër, as schedules can be less predictable outside summer.

Late Afternoon — Pazari i Ri

Once checked in, head to Pazari i Ri, a lively market quarter northeast of Skanderbeg Square. Set aside about an hour to browse the produce stalls, small food shops, and surrounding streets such as Rruga Shenasi Dishnica. It is a good place to stretch your legs after the long ride, and the area is especially pleasant in the early evening when locals gather for drinks. From central Tirana, it is walkable in roughly 15–20 minutes; otherwise, a short taxi ride is inexpensive. Keep the visit relaxed rather than treating it as another major sightseeing stop.

Early Evening — Komiteti – Kafe Muzeum and Dinner at Mullixhiu

Take a taxi to Blloku for Komiteti – Kafe Muzeum, an atmospheric café and small museum filled with objects from Albanian domestic and communist-era life. Allow about an hour and budget €5–15 for coffee or drinks and the museum experience; evening hours are usually convenient, but check its current social-media schedule before going. From Blloku, continue by taxi toward Grand Park—walking is possible but not especially pleasant after a full travel day—for dinner at Mullixhiu. Reserve ahead, as its thoughtful modern Albanian menu is popular; expect roughly €35–60 per person, depending on the tasting choices and drinks. The restaurant’s seasonal dishes make this a fitting final evening in Albania, so allow around two hours rather than rushing through the meal.

Day 19 · Sat, Oct 10
Andorra la Vella, Andorra

Pyrenees day in Andorra la Vella

Getting there from Tirana, Albania
Flight from Tirana to Barcelona, usually with a connection (about 5–8h flying/connection time), then direct Andbus or ALSA bus from Barcelona Airport or Estació d’Autobusos Nord to Andorra la Vella (about 3–3.5h, €35–45). Allow 8–12h door-to-door; book flights via Google Flights/airline sites and the bus via andorrabybus.com or alsa.com.
Fly to Toulouse instead, then FlixBus or Andbus to Andorra (about 3h bus, €25–45), but flight schedules may be less convenient.
  1. Tirana–Andorra la Vella journey — Flight connections to Barcelona followed by bus or private transfer; allow a full travel day, typically 8–11 hours door to door.
  2. Plaça del Poble — Andorra la Vella; take an easy central walk after arrival (evening, ~45 minutes).
  3. Església de Sant Esteve — Old town; see the Romanesque church beside the historic quarter (evening, ~30 minutes).
  4. Buda Espai Andorra — Central Andorra la Vella; choose a relaxed dinner with mountain views (€25–45; evening, ~1.5 hours).

Late Afternoon — Arrival and Plaça del Poble

This is intentionally a gentle arrival evening after the long journey from Tirana via Barcelona. Once you have checked in and dropped your bags, take a relaxed 45-minute walk through central Andorra la Vella to Plaça del Poble, the town’s elevated civic square above the Parc Central. The route is easy on foot from most central hotels, though the final approach includes a modest incline. From the square, you get a first feel for the narrow valley and the mountains rising immediately around the capital; sunset is particularly pleasant here in October, usually around 19:00. If you arrive later, the square is still worthwhile for a quiet, illuminated view, but avoid trying to fit in anything ambitious.

Early Evening — Església de Sant Esteve

Walk downhill toward the old quarter, following the streets around Plaça Príncep Benlloch, to Església de Sant Esteve. This small Romanesque church is one of the most atmospheric corners of the center, with its stone walls and compact historic setting contrasting with Andorra’s modern shopping streets. Allow about 30 minutes, but check the door hours locally—access can be limited outside services or special opening periods. The surrounding lanes are best explored slowly rather than treated as a checklist; keep an eye out for the older stone houses tucked between newer buildings.

Evening — Dinner at Buda Espai Andorra

Finish at Buda Espai Andorra, a relaxed central restaurant and lounge where you can have dinner without making the first night too formal. Reserve ahead if possible, particularly for a mountain-facing table, and expect roughly €25–45 per person depending on drinks and whether you order a full meal. It is a convenient walk from the old town, but take a short taxi if your accommodation is uphill or you are carrying luggage. Keep the evening unhurried: tomorrow’s excursion to Ordino is better enjoyed after a proper night’s sleep, and many shops and restaurants in the center close earlier than visitors expect outside the busiest ski and summer periods.

Day 20 · Sun, Oct 11
Ordino, Andorra

Mountain villages of Andorra

Getting there from Andorra la Vella, Andorra
Cooperativa Interurbana Andorrana bus line L6 toward Ordino (about 25–35m, €2–4), from central Andorra la Vella stops. Check routes at mobilitat.ad; depart in the morning.
  1. Ordino village — Ordino; explore one of Andorra’s prettiest traditional mountain settlements (morning, ~1.5 hours).
  2. Casa d’Areny-Plandolit — Ordino; tour the country’s best-preserved historic manor house (late morning, ~1 hour).
  3. Llac d’Engolasters — Encamp; enjoy an accessible forest-and-lake walk with Pyrenean scenery (afternoon, ~2 hours).
  4. Caldea — Escaldes-Engordany; unwind in the famous thermal spa after the mountain day (€40–70; late afternoon, ~3 hours).
  5. La Mosquera — Andorra la Vella; have a final Andorran dinner in a traditional setting (€30–50; evening, ~1.5 hours).

Morning — Ordino village

Take the L6 bus from central Andorra la Vella toward Ordino, allowing roughly 25–35 minutes; morning departures are the sensible choice, since services are less frequent later in the day. Get off near the village center and spend about 1½ hours wandering the stone lanes around Carrer Major, the small Plaça Major, and the lanes beside the Valira del Nord. This is one of Andorra’s most attractive settlements: quiet, carefully restored, and much more atmospheric before coach groups arrive. A coffee at Topic Restaurant is a convenient local-style pause; expect around €3–5 for coffee and a pastry.

Late morning, visit Casa d’Areny-Plandolit, usually open from around 10:00, though seasonal hours can vary, with admission generally about €5–7. The guided or self-guided visit takes roughly an hour and gives a good sense of how one of Andorra’s prominent families lived, with period furniture, wooden balconies, and domestic rooms rather than grand palace interiors. It is only a short walk from the village center, so there is no need to rush between the two stops.

Afternoon — Llac d’Engolasters

After lunch, arrange a taxi or drive from Ordino toward Llac d’Engolasters in Encamp; allow approximately 25–35 minutes by road, depending on traffic and the mountain route. Public transport is not especially convenient for the lake, so a taxi or rental car is worthwhile today. Pack water and a light layer: the accessible forest path around the lake takes about two hours, with shaded sections, viewpoints, and broad Pyrenean scenery. The walk is easy to moderate rather than strenuous, but wear proper shoes because the ground can be damp under the trees. Bring a picnic if you prefer, as food options at the lake are limited.

Late Afternoon and Evening — Caldea and La Mosquera

Return toward Escaldes-Engordany for a late-afternoon session at Caldea, ideally booking an entry around 16:30–17:00. Allow about three hours to enjoy the thermal lagoons, indoor and outdoor pools, and relaxation areas; admission commonly falls between €40 and €70 depending on the time and package. Bring flip-flops and a swimsuit, and check the entry rules when booking—some areas have age restrictions and sessions can sell out, particularly on weekends. Afterward, walk or take a short taxi to La Mosquera in Andorra la Vella for dinner. This traditional restaurant is a good final-night choice for hearty Andorran cooking; budget roughly €30–50 per person, and reserve ahead if possible. Try local mountain dishes such as trinxat, grilled meats, or a seasonal stew, keeping the evening relaxed rather than adding another sightseeing stop.

Day 21 · Mon, Oct 12
Barcelona, Spain

Return to Barcelona

Getting there from Ordino, Andorra
Bus to Barcelona, preferably Direct Bus/Andbus or ALSA via Andorra la Vella (about 3.5–4.5h, €30–45). Depart around 08:00–09:00; book via andorrabybus.com or alsa.com. Add traffic buffer before timed afternoon entries.
Private transfer (about 3h, €180–300 per vehicle), useful for a group with luggage.
  1. Andorra la Vella–Barcelona transfer — Bus or private transfer; depart in the morning and allow approximately 3–4 hours, including traffic.
  2. Park Güell — Gràcia; visit Gaudí’s colorful park with timed-entry planning (afternoon, ~2 hours).
  3. Casa Vicens — Gràcia; tour Gaudí’s earliest major Barcelona residence (late afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  4. La Pepita — Gràcia; share creative tapas in a neighborhood favorite (€25–40; evening, ~1.5 hours).

Morning — Andorra to Barcelona

Leave Ordino around 08:00–08:30, taking the bus down to Andorra la Vella for the direct coach to Barcelona. Allow roughly 3½–4½ hours door to door, including traffic on the approach to the city. If you have luggage, use the central Estació Nacional d’Autobusos as your arrival reference and keep your Park Güell entry for around 14:30 or later; arriving at Barcelona Nord still leaves time for a taxi or a combination of metro and bus to Gràcia. A taxi from the coach station to the park is easiest with bags, while public transport usually takes 35–50 minutes.

Afternoon — Park Güell

After lunch in Gràcia, head to Park Güell for your timed visit. Allow about two hours for the monumental area and the quieter paths above it, where the city views are particularly good in the late afternoon. The paid monumental zone requires a timed ticket—usually around €10–15—while much of the surrounding park is free; arrive 15–20 minutes early because entry slots are enforced. Wear shoes with grip, bring water, and avoid relying on the steepest uphill routes if you have luggage. From the park, walk or take a short taxi downhill toward Carrer de les Carolines, a pleasant transition through Gràcia’s residential streets.

Late Afternoon and Evening — Casa Vicens and dinner

Visit Casa Vicens, Gaudí’s first major Barcelona house, with a late-afternoon entry around 17:00. The visit takes roughly 1½ hours, and the richly tiled rooms and small garden feel more intimate than Gaudí’s larger landmarks. Tickets are generally about €20–25; check the exact closing time when booking, as the final admission can vary by season. Afterwards, stroll through Vila de Gràcia—especially around Plaça de la Virreina and Carrer de Verdi—before dinner at La Pepita. Arrive around 19:30–20:00 or reserve ahead; this popular neighborhood spot serves creative tapas and small plates, usually €25–40 per person. Share several dishes rather than ordering a full meal each, and leave the rest of the evening free for a relaxed walk through Gràcia’s squares.

Day 22 · Tue, Oct 13
Barcelona, Spain

Extended stay in Barcelona

  1. Sagrada Família — Eixample; tour Gaudí’s unfinished masterpiece with a timed ticket (morning, ~2 hours).
  2. Hospital de Sant Pau — Eixample; explore the spectacular modernist former hospital complex (late morning, ~1.5 hours).
  3. La Paradeta Sagrada Família — Sagrada Família; choose fresh seafood at this informal counter-service restaurant (€20–35; lunch, ~1 hour).
  4. Palau de la Música Catalana — El Born; admire Barcelona modernisme through a tour or concert (afternoon, ~1.5 hours).
  5. Santa Maria del Mar — El Born; visit the grand Catalan Gothic basilica (late afternoon, ~45 minutes).
  6. Bodega La Puntual — El Born; finish with classic tapas and vermouth (€20–35; evening, ~1.5 hours).

Morning

Start around 8:30 at Sagrada Família, when the light is beautiful through the stained glass and the crowds are still manageable. Book a timed entry in advance—allow about two hours, and add the towers only if heights and narrow stairways appeal to you. From Sagrada Família, walk roughly 10 minutes along Avinguda de Gaudí to Hospital de Sant Pau. The former hospital complex is one of Barcelona’s finest modernisme interiors, with tiled pavilions, gardens, and mosaics; allow 1½ hours. Tickets are usually around €16–18, and the site typically opens at 9:30, so check the exact schedule when booking.

Lunch and Afternoon

Return toward Sagrada Família for lunch at La Paradeta Sagrada Família, an informal seafood counter where you choose fresh fish and shellfish before it is cooked to order. Expect about €20–35 per person, and go slightly before or after the main lunch rush because queues are common. After lunch, take the metro from Sagrada Família to Urquinaona—usually around 15 minutes—and walk into El Born for an afternoon visit to Palau de la Música Catalana. Reserve a guided tour or concert entry in advance; the richly decorated concert hall takes about 1½ hours, with tours commonly costing roughly €20–25.

Late Afternoon and Evening

Walk about 10 minutes through El Born to Santa Maria del Mar, arriving in the softer late-afternoon light. This imposing Catalan Gothic basilica is quieter and more atmospheric than many central sights; allow 45 minutes, and check the day’s worship schedule before arriving, as visitor access can pause during services. Finish nearby at Bodega La Puntual, a traditional spot for vermouth, anchovies, conservas, croquettes, and other classic tapas. It is a good place to slow down rather than order a full formal meal; budget €20–35 per person, and arrive around 19:30–20:00 or reserve if possible, since the dining room fills quickly.

Day 23 · Wed, Oct 14
Milan, Italy

Return to Milan

Getting there from Barcelona, Spain
Direct flight from Barcelona-El Prat to Milan Malpensa or Bergamo, commonly Vueling, Ryanair or easyJet (about 1h 40m flight; 3–5h door-to-door, €40–180). Book via the airline or Google Flights and arrive at the airport about 2h before departure.
High-speed rail via France (about 9–11h, usually €100–250); only practical if avoiding flights.
  1. Barcelona–Milan return journey — Flight from Barcelona–El Prat to Milan; depart according to flight time and allow airport-transfer buffer (~3–5 hours door to door).
  2. Arrival in Milan and family time — Milan; return to your family base and keep the remainder of the day flexible (afternoon/evening, ~3 hours).

Morning — Barcelona to Milan

Allow 3–5 hours door to door for the return flight, including the transfer to Barcelona–El Prat Airport, security, the flight, and the onward journey into Milan. If flying with a low-cost carrier, check whether you are departing from Terminal 1 or Terminal 2 and leave Barcelona with at least two hours before departure—metro line L9 Sud is useful for Terminal 1, while the Aerobús is often simpler from the central neighborhoods. A direct flight takes roughly 1 hour 40 minutes; expect to pay about €40–180 depending on baggage and how early you book.

On arrival, choose your Milan transfer according to the airport: the Malpensa Express reaches Milano Centrale in about 50 minutes, while Bergamo Airport requires the airport bus to Bergamo station or a direct coach to Milano Centrale, usually taking 50–70 minutes depending on traffic. Keep the afternoon deliberately open—after two weeks of moving between cities, the nicest plan is to return to your family base, unpack, and have a proper coffee or lunch at home rather than forcing in another attraction.

Afternoon and Evening — Back with Family

Spend the rest of the day with your parents and let them choose the neighborhood rhythm: a short walk for groceries, an espresso at a local bar, or an unhurried aperitivo somewhere close to home. If you want to mark the return with a Milanese meal, look for a traditional osteria near your family’s neighborhood and order risotto alla milanese, cotoletta, or mondeghili; dinner is usually busiest after 20:00, so booking is sensible. Keep luggage and valuables close on the airport transfer, and remember that public transport tickets must be purchased before boarding or through the official ATM Milano app.

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Things to do in Barcelona

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